You can use the crown vic cluster listing on my site. Happy to hear others enjoy the music to!

Its you. There is no marking dot on the pcb. Just via's. The one you think is a foot print marker is just filled in with solder. Watch the beginning closely. The chip was placed correctly.

@@ecurepair jejeje yes you're right, it was a via with solder.

Yea, I recommended they replace it still. Dont know if they ever did.

you have to program the keyless entry separate. Its different systems. I have the video for that too. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p5exg3eglpZ_n7M

@@ecurepair bro I tried doing this it didn't work so I thought maybe there was too many keys programmed cause there was 4 key active .. so I cleared all keys and it asked me to add two keys .. I tried to follow the instructions it took the first key but the key that had the super chip didn't work.. is your Super Chip Blank ? i am thinking its cause my super chip was the clone of the first key that's why it didn't work, please confirm asap as the car is not able to start anymore. I have the vvdi Key tool pro Max but I am noobie any help would be greatly appreciated thanks

@@kami009 it cant be a clone or the other one because then they have the same ID. it needs to be a separate generated ID.

Its the fobik WCM style I take it. What tools do you have your trying to read with

@@ecurepair I was unable to with iprog+ using the adapter. I don't have expensive hardware around 🥲. Which tool do you recommend to me. Any guidance will be very much appreciated.

you can find my contact info in my profile or by visiting my site. links are in my video descriptions.

And why did you delete / patch out the immo but not the light for it? I’m new to ecu programming.

sure i have a bunch of xhorse stuff. its not bad but its not easy for beginners. Most of xhorse stuff is based off other top innovated tools that come to market and xhorse just kind of mushed it all together.

@@stevensgarage6451 It was a junkyard car and the owner was just making sure the engine was good.

Howdy, Thanks for the comments and the additional information. I dont remember specifics from this job, I do too many, but If I did it in bootmode then its because it didnt read through data for me. I'm a fairly lazy guy so I wouldn't choose bootmode as first option. Not a Chopin fan? Who is your preference? Tchaikovsky, Rimsky-Korsakov? I'm a fan of them all so I dont mind any and happy to consider all for future videos.

sure, no problem

Ah, here it is 74022PC, the gate driver IC. The other parts are available.

Do not buy igbts labeled 5503GM or the logic gate labeled 74022. These are masked numbers ford used internally. Anything aftermarket is just fake chips that may or may not work. Use updated igbt from onsemi and a compatible 7402. Buy from real supplier like digikey or mouser.

I use REL22 solder (lead free) or if leaded then Kester 63/37, Flux I use is kesters liquid flux 951 (no rosin) & 1544 (rosin)

Awesome thanks I'm going to be in the US briefly and know you know what's best so wanted to stock up love your videos thanks!

Are you in the US? 98 civics in the US do not have immobilizers. Civics here didn't start till 2000.

The problem with honda is usually you are rebuilding them when they fail so you cant usually turn it on before removing, But would probably work ok to pop it out, switch it to on and install the new/rebuilt one in the on position

@@ecurepair I just cut a new key by code, get it into the ignition and a few taps with a flathead handle and I get it to turn

@ecurepair I'm a locksmith bud and have done at least another 7 or 8 of these since that first time. Works fine for me

@@travisnamath7549 lol i got ya man no worries. I am a locksmith for over 20 years and I did these daily for my local Honda dealer for several years (this video was even done there. You can see the lot tag). Sometimes 2 or 3 a day. I've done hundreds of these honda ignition rebuilds over the years. The reason its not typical to be able to turn is because the split wafers move out of their lower guides and then block the sheer line (and sometimes even the keys entry) since they cant drop down properly anymore. If your lucky you may just be dealing with a worn key or you have maybe one wafer that's slipped out and your likely cracking it in half when you force the key on but honestly I'd advise against it. There is no reason to risk damaging the cylinder by forcing the key on since these are only held in by the roll pins and your goal should to be disassemble and rebuild with a new wafer kit. This problem of the wheel lock is more of minor annoyance that happens once in a blue moon. I poorly worded its occurrence in this video. My apologies.

most all VW's

Depends on the repair business i guess. I would hope if the repair business fails then they would refund their customer at least. I have not tried other methods no. I have seen others try and use a type of conductive epoxi. Must not work all that good because I wouldn't of had to redo them if so.

@@ecurepair I just tried doing this and it does work, the problem is the aluminum wire heat sinks and forms an instant layer of oxydation. As for how long it will last being that I drive of bumpy roads, time will tell. Ultrasonic welding is how they attach them in the factory.

​@@Ed-ty1kr I'd imagine these would be a nightmare with poor heat transfer. The oxidation is probably happening because the iron cant deliver heat well enough and instead is just burning up the flux instead. Thankfully the iron I use, I don't have that issue. It puts the heat into it really well and I get good solid connections. The silicone conformal coating I cover over with at the end helps with the vibrations and bumpy roads. Don't have any issues with come backs on them.

@@ecurepair Just in case I picked up a used module with 90 day return 50 miles from home for $109. The yard has 2 more. BUT... its no better than the original that failed from a bit of vibration driving down a limerock road almost daily. But are these aluminum wires really necessary, or is it just tamper proofing and planned obsolescence? I mean I did'nt drive like a madman, I didnt launch the truck in the air, or get into a fender bender... the wires broke loose anyway. Its not even close to the engine so no heat... I dont get it.

Customer didn't want me showing their sensitive data. With that said, if you have a key to use , the dump from the TWICE, and half a brain you can easily see it yourself. There is no secrets to find it. If someone needs to be spoon fed something so simple as the key id & location for these then I would say they are in over their head and shouldn't be doing it in til they understand better what it is they are doing.

Through my website is the easiest way to get my contact info, but its in my youtube profile as well. keyworks.us

Happy to help

guilty. caught me sticky handed.

will be happy to take a look at it

Not sure I have tried a used one like that before. May be better to just use a virgin bcm and SPS if original is gone or unreadable.

@@ecurepair ok Thanks for responding 👍

You have to create your own or make due with out. They are not released.

keyworks.us/ramecu9802.html

Its not always needed but its a good general rule of thumb when programming models that need to start in the unlocked position. Its basically just to make sure the system is reset/ready to start (even if it already is)

Lmk if you find

self study and years of experience

@@ecurepair thanks for responding, which books or any source of info will u recommend

I probably should have did a follow up video on this. Metcal answered my email with in 24hr's, asked me a few questions about the cable, agreed it was likely a faulty cable then rushed me out a free replacement (not even a shipping charge) even though it was well out of warranty. I had a great experience with them to be honest. Very easy to talk with. As far as the CV unit itself is concerned, its by far my favorite soldering station. I Highly recommend it. The MX is good as well. Just not as many bells and whistles.

@ecurepair That's good news. What about the micro pen issue with it not working some times, was that fixed as well?

I didn't bother talking to them about the tip(s). Im pretty rough on my tips so its hard to say if they are defective or just me abusing it. I havent had any issues since this video with any though thankfully.

Agree'd. I usually only work on big stuff that I would have a bit of an issues using this with. Thankfully I just had that smaller key come in and thought it was the perfect chance to use it.