Replace rear differential fluid 2015-2020 Chevy Tahoe LT / Yukon 5.3L

[@ahmedkamla2109]

Thank you for taking the time to make the video. Very helpful and easy to follow.

[@marenothecarguy8361]

Glad it was helpful!

[@waltbe]

This is really a very good video. It's clear, gives lots of tips and shows experience. Appreciate the different camera angles. Thank you!

[@kaseyworkman3066]

Something I’ve learned the hard way before, make sure to ALWAYS remove the fill plug BEFORE removing the drain plug/ bolts. It really sucks when you’ve drained the oil then break the fill plug bolt and can’t drive it to a mechanic Edit: I know you said “should’ve done that first” this comment is for those who also watch your videos like I do

[@laspiedras01]

Can i use the same fluid of the rear for the front differential?. How many quarts take the rear differential? Thanks.

[@AUDI_obsession]

it’s supposed to use 75w-90 in the front but i think it will be just fine if not better with the 75w-85

[@4Runner21]

No new thread seal on the bolts when placing cover back on?

[@marenothecarguy8361]

No it doesn’t.

[@kevintheclassicman2578]

The rust is a little bit concerning

[@marenothecarguy8361]

Not really, this is the salt belt here in Wisconsin. We are used to it. Cars here start rusting within 3 to 4 years. I passed a 2017 GMC truck the other day that was far more rusty than my 2008 Dodge Ram 1500. American cars do awful in the salty Midwest but Japanese and German made cars does really well. My wife’s 2011 Honda Odyssey doesn’t have a lick of rust on it. It looks worse than it really is, it’s all topical right now. a good sandblasting and recoating could take care of if someone desired. It doesn’t help the factory coating peeled all off, exposing the metal to the salt. The peeling is a known issue on these. There is a cool video of a guy lifting the body off of his frame, removing all of the factory peeling coating and properly recoating everything.