Replacing a CX9 rear bearing without any control arm removal.

[@luisenriqueoloarte9823]

Thanks for shearing This . I was about to do the job and I almost go crazy when I thought I had to remove the hole control arm So I went to KZbin and you came up to save my day . The first side took me about 90 minutes the second one about 45 minutes. I really appreciate you 👌

[@oldschoolvolvo]

Thanks for positing this video! Very helpful. Just replaced the pass side rear hub on my wife's '10 CX-9 AWD. It took me about 2 hrs taking my time and cleaning things along the way.

[@msk3905]

Should have done both while under there

[@GregD-dc4hm]

Everyone with AWD, do yourself a favor and remove the upper link from the trailing arm. With this and the gear puller puller pushing the axle back, you will have much more clearance around the ABS ring.

[@glenwhitestofer6420]

Did myself a favour left it attached did both sides in a little under an hour.

[@martincstee5335]

I concur that this method makes removing the four bolts much easier, especially if your CX-9 is badly rusted by the northern climate.

[@roblord7610]

I've just done the exact same job a few days ago, but on a 4wd Mazda MPV. the bolts around the ABS ring were a bitch but I persevered and got it done. Great video. I'm glad it wasn't just me who did it this way

[@elizabethculp934]

You made my fix extremely easy. I think you should do way more videos!!! Great job !!!!

[@potcanulsobolanul84]

Hy. I followed every step, and it worked works perfectly. The problem appeared just after finishing the job, because its impossible to loosen the bolts without ruining your abs tone rings. The bolts are hidden, half way behind the abs tone rings. You will have to put a lot of pressure on them to crack them open and at that moment you will push against the rings, ruining the teeth from it. So now I will have to remove everything and change both rings. I just want to tell everyone, to not make the same mistake.

[@msk3905]

I just changed both rear bearings and had no issues with ruining what you call the abs tone rings, not sure what you were doing but when you loosen the axle nut you can slide axle back giving enough clearance of the abs tone ring. Also, if you are doing this make sure to have a good amount of map gas you will need it to make loosen things easy and the old bearing popped right out dust shield after heating.

[@RJ67.]

@@msk3905 thanks for the tips brother!

[@usaryder74]

My friend you made it sound very easy it was certainly easier then the traditional method and was much cheaper but man took me a long time. Thank you for the video anyway it was very helpful

[@timprelvu4664]

Thank you sir Dealership asked 1100 $400 parts Found it on parts store for $75 And had to buy Wheel puller $23 So $98 Thank you again

[@emptynest44]

Very helpful. I removed the lower shock bolt and moved the shock to make it easier to get at the rear bottom bolt.

[@msk3905]

I thought about that but using wobble extensions keep me from doing that

[@reinaldolockeortiz]

FYI. It is the same, for a Mazda CX7 2010, Thank you for this video....

[@chrisburge54]

I ground a T55 socket down and was able to loosen all 4 bolts. disconnected e brake cable, and left in the speed sensor. Took me 45 min each side.

[@breakawaymotorsports]

Just an FYI..the rear bolt heads are actually T60. The T55 may break them loose,but could strip them if they are really tight.

[@daveray6335]

Same for my 2010 model--T60. The extended bit is a MUST! Thanks for posting the video, Thadivs.

[@zendigital]

Correct but I suggest only using the t60 to break and tighten since it will rub against the abs ring on the axle. Once broken I used a t55 since it gives a bit more clearance. Then I used the t60 to torque it.

[@soorajmjose8406]

Is 3 inch gear puller works? Thanks

[@Mercedescp5]

This video help a-lot, use this method, i had to heat up the ends to get the bolts off.

[@faycalamidi1971]

Hi do you think is the same process with Mazda 2007 x7 to change rear wheels bearing thanks

[@zendigital]

Thanks for the video, it helped cut a 2 hour job in half.

[@garypolliard322]

Did my sons 2011 had to heat up the casting to get the bolts loose. Video helped a lot. Needed the longer t60 but it worked. Thanks.

[@frankie324]

Gary Polliard where did you buy the long t60 bit? Thanks

[@msk3905]

T60 aren’t they T55? Just did both rears today and my 2012 needed T55. I heated the backside of these bolts that you see when remove rotor, worked like a champ on all 8!

[@hassanbourobira4874]

Thanks for the good video

[@duckydog6424]

Very helpful! Thanks!

[@usaryder74]

Nice straight forward video; straight to the point. I liked the C clamp idea. I loved the long torx idea. Did you actually use an impact gun? I didn't see it or hear it.

[@Mercedescp5]

Do you know if this process works to get enough clearance to remove rear CV axle off and get it replaced? figured since its along the way can get it done as well, any help is appreciated

[@xxogre607xx2]

Whats the actual torque for the axle nut?

[@martincstee5335]

According to the repair manual, it's between 174~202 ft.lbf. My Harbor Freight 1/2" torque wrench max out at 150 ft.lbf, so after I torqued 150 I'd use impact wrench to give some more oomph!

[@soorajmjose8406]

What size gear puller used? Thanks

[@soorajmjose8406]

Hi , thanks for the video. What size socket for axil nut?

[@Madmaxnolaw]

32mm

[@hapywee2011]

how much force did you all have to use to remove the t55 bolts? I am apparently too weak to hand start it and i am not able to fit any air tools back there.

[@Thadivs]

I just had to replace one yesterday. It takes a good bit of force to get them to break loose. I use a half inch ratchet (with 1 inch and 3 inch extensions) and either a 3-pound hammer on it, or I use a variety of pipes to extend the ratchet handle to give it a good amount of torque. Also, it's a good idea to take a wire brush to the end of the t55 bolts that are poking through under the emergency brake pad before you try to remove the bolts. I also spray them with a bit of penetrating oil after cleaning off the dirt and rust.

[@glenwhitestofer6420]

That's what breaker bars are for.

[@martincstee5335]

@@Thadivs The problem is there is no space for breaker bar nor pipes for leverage.

[@trinkosol]

I have an extended T55 but I can't get at the bolts at all because of the ring. Were you able to get to them initially or did you have to push the axle back first?

[@Thadivs]

It's been a while, but I vaguely remember moving the axle at some point. I also recall the sense that the bit didn't go straight into each bolt, but at a slight angle.

[@trinkosol]

Ahh..ok, so this is what I am running up against. If the angle approach worked for you, then I'll give it a go. How high of a lift did you have? My jack goes up 14", I can't imagine getting under there with a breaker bar. Come to think of it, I can't imagine getting under there :-).

[@Thadivs]

I didn't go under the vehicle. But I always use jack stands, as well as a jack for extra safety. And I only raise it high enough for the wheel to clear the floor by an inch or two in order to remove it. I mostly worked from "feel", I never actually saw the bolt heads, or the bit for that matter. And I probably used a small sledge hammer and my 1/2 inch driver to break things loose.

[@msk3905]

Loosen axle and push me back and aside it will help greatly, I jacked car up and put on jack stands makes getting to bolts from underside much easier. Remember heat heat heat and impact gun.

[@mikek.2752]

Torx t60 3inch. Grind it down a little so it will fit square. Use a grinding wheel.

[@frankie324]

Mike K. So which one is it? On the video he said t55 your comment says t60?

[@JP-km3qi]

Does anyone know the torque spec for the rear axle nuts on CX-9? Specifically a 2010 (rear passenger). I know Thadvis said his torque wrench wouldnt go high enough...I'm guessing it's high

[@Madmaxnolaw]

207 ft lbs

[@bhadz100]

What sound were you hearing? Was it like a chirping sound at very low speed?

[@Thadivs]

My wife described the noise as starting out as a "roaring". Then it turned into a "weird bomping" noise. If it were a chirp, I would look to the brake pads or emergency brake shoes.

[@bhadz100]

+Thadivs i changed the rotor a year ago and it went away. However its starting to chirp again. I usually notice it when its slowing moving from a dead stop

[@nutmegprospector9139]

has anyone replaced the bearing in the hub? A hub/bearing assembly costs a lot more than a bearing.

[@huddarudda2244]

Hi All - I'm at a complete loss - i have this same 2010 CX-9 Grand Touring, and both my wheel bearings have gone in the rear. I can't for the life of me get access to the T60 bolts - because the ABS Cogs are actually covering up the bolt heads so i can't fit a torque tool in them to und to them? PLEASE HELP.. My concern is that no one else on this thread mention they have any issue at all that i am having, everyone says "you saved me hours thanks"... but i wish i could post a photo to show you all - I have 'punched' the centre out so the it's moved back a bit about 1" - but i dont have that fancy big giant tool you pressed the spline out with... i used a centre punch and a small sledge hammer... and it was HARD WORK.. and it still only moved 1"... How in the heck do i get access to the head of the Torque bolts so i can remove them??? It looks like the only way is to remove the Drive Shaft... and that's something that could be wil beyond me? Our family car is in the middle of the driveway in pieces on stands... I'm standing by for a lifeline or any tips thanks so much..

[@Thadivs]

I just saw your comment, and I hope I'm not too late. To remove the driveshaft, if memory serves me well, you would need to unbolt the entire assemble as if you were removing it from the car. But pushing the shaft out is part of that process, so I don't see that being the desired course of action. I do remember that I had to order the long torx bit, and even then, it had to go into each torx bolt at a slight angle. As I backed out the bolts, I needed to push the shaft back to allow them to continue to come out. My two-jaw puller is invaluable for this! After the bolts were entirely loose, the bearing can come off, but the bolts can remain behind the shaft. I never did see any of the torx bolt heads behind the bearing, I kinda just did everything by feel.

[@usaryder74]

What is the size of the big axel nut?

[@elliotclee]

32mm worked for me but was a little loose. Its not 30mm. Might try 31

[@АндрейБлызнюк-ю7м]

Молодці хлопці.

[@nutmegprospector9139]

what size is the hub nut?

[@nutmegprospector9139]

32mm

[@ZellenoffBloWZ]

good video, maybe invest in some battery tools tho lol

[@Drogos79]

Is that for FWD or AWD version?

[@soorajmjose8406]

I think that is an awd

[@GruchKilla77]

It has axle in the rear so...

[@glenwhitestofer6420]

@@GruchKilla77 It's hard to not say something else with that question ,lol

[@cfsilence]

do you have a link to the torx bit that you used?

[@Thadivs]

www.amazon.com/TEMO-Black-Impact-Socket-Drive/dp/B00GXXPJFO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473619273&sr=8-1&keywords=TEMO+T-55+3%22+Long+Black+Impact+Torx+Socket+Bit+1%2F2%22+Drive

[@idrivea911]

Does anyone have a torque spec for the T60/T55 bolts?

[@GregD-dc4hm]

82.7-96.5 ft lbs

[@marquislord6253]

Life saver Mitchell says 2 hours doesn’t look like it

[@glenwhitestofer6420]

Did both sides in a little under an hour total.

[@stevemcgill4328]

its a t60!!! NOT A T55!

[@ricardocuetara1]

Hello Thadivs How did you remove the t55 bolts? My bolts have a lot of rust and they are very tight. Can you give me some advice? Thank you!!

[@Thadivs]

When I encounter a stubborn bolt, there isn't much to do about it. You just have to use more force. Sometimes, I'll hit the end of the half inch ratchet with a sledge hammer. Or I'll put a pipe on the end of the ratchet to give it more torque. I also use a breaker bar if I have enough room. It never hurts to spray the bolt with PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench and let it set overnight. I don't have any torches that get hot enough to make the bolt glow red, but I hear it's pretty effective, so long as there is nothing nearby that will melt or burn. If you do plan to get tough with the bolt, wear some thick gloves. It'll save you some busted knuckles.

[@ricardocuetara1]

Thank you very much Thadivs!

[@kalinradoulov3760]

Heat it

[@msk3905]

Heat and impact wrench!

[@stevemcgill4328]

AND THE LONG T-60 TORX STILL WONT FIT NEXT TO THE AXLE ON THE REAR BOLTS. ONLY WORKS ON THE FRONTS. HAVE TO TAKE THE STRUT LOOSE, AND PULL THE AXLE OUT A LIL BIT AT AN ANGLE. I WOULD HAVE BEEN BETTER OFF JUST DOING IT THAN WATCHING THIS VID.

[@Thadivs]

I used the T55 so that it would have enough "slop" to allow me to put it at a slight angle so as to "sneak" around the driveshaft. That way I wouldn't need to remove the strut or control arm.

[@stevemcgill4328]

@@Thadivs A T55 WOULD HAVE STRIPPED THE BOLTS IN MY CASE AND MOST CASES.. I HAD TO PUT MY ENTIRE WEIGHT OF 200LBS AND JUMP UP AND DOWN ON IT TO GET THEM TO CRACK FREE, AND THATS AFTER MULTIPLE SOAKINGS OF "FREE ALL" A MUCH BETTER LUBRICANT THAN PB BLASTER. DONT EVER LIST THE WRONG TOOL BECAUSE IT WORKED FOR YOU. UR VERY LUCKY U DIDNT STRIP THEM. YOU WOULD HAVE BEEN REPLACING THE ENTIRE CONTROL ARM.. AND U CUT OFF 1/2 THE VID.. THE HARD PARTS PEOPLE NEED TO KNOW. IM GONNA POST MY OWN VID AND ILL TAG YOU IN IT. THE RIGHT WAY TO DO IT.

[@kenskillman5063]

can anyone tell me the size of the axle nut thanks

[@Thadivs]

If my memory serves me right, I believe that the axle nut requires a 32mm socket. The internet claims that the thread size is M22 x 1.5mm. Hope this helps.

[@ItzHighTie]

I should of watched this 12hrs ago...smh