Replacing Outlets and Fixing Un-Grounded Outlets

[@kennethbolton951]

When you work as an electrician apprentice you get all the fun chores, like running romex in attics where it is 200 degrees thru all kinds of dust, insulation, bat poop etc. And staying on the studs, where if you slip and put a hand or foot thru the ceiling. Then you learn all kinds of new skills. Just think what this job of yours would have cost. That is why people still try to do it yourself for this and plumbing.But, thanks to Yoo hoo tube we can at least ask a few questions, like: "can I watch" and "I will get an inspection for code, just want to let you know".

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

All of us in the trade had to go through it and that’s how you learn. There’s no getting to the top without starting at the bottom. I thank God for KZbin helping all of us people prepare the learning phase where somebody went before us and they can explain how it’s done.

[@3dplayer-]

Unscrrew and replace the blue box tab screw top and bottom with two longer screws that have the same thread and diameter. The corner blue box tabs will secure box.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Agreed. If I had said screws. Thanks for watching and commenting . 💪

[@sjpropertyservices3987]

I have started to write the number of the circuit on the back of any receptacle or switch plates I work on. Although I try to have all circuits properly labeled at the panel, having the circuit # on the plate may help someone in the future.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Absolutely! That is especially useful and should be required on commercial jobs. Great comment. Thank you 🙏

[@Jeff-rk8hq]

Very considerate of you and a great idea that I’ll definitely be doing this from here out and I’ll remember I got from SJ property services🙏🏻👊🏼✌🏻

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Happy to help SJ property services. Thanks for watching and commenting! Anyone can show their support and appreciation by sending super thanks! I love to hear that kind of feedback.

[@surferdude642]

Excellent information

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching. Please consider liking and subscribing it really helps the channel 👍

[@johnerway7255]

Here they will not allow a loop connection of the ground, we must wire in two pig tails, one for each duplex. We also can not loop hot and neutral between the outlets, we must connect pigtails to wire up both outlets from the incoming feed wire. Good job detailing your overview.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Nice I Thank you for watching and commenting. Do you work commercial or residential?

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

I value everyone’s comments. I enjoyed reading and responding to all. Even the national electric code is nationwide each AHJ can impose their own set of rules that they feel is important for their area. Understandably wiring a house in Alaska would be a little bit different than wiring houses in Florida. Hence the reason for additions locally to the national electric code. We all know wiring, residential and commercial is two different animals as well. Keep the comments coming my friends. Thank you.

[@Fitjaycjr]

Very nice informative video, question do most residential properties have 12 gauge wire then? Thats why you didn’t do the stab in option into the back of the outlets? & if so is the stab in option good?

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Hey Junior. 12 Gauge is not required for all circuits here in Florida. This house was already started in 12-gauge so I will continue, even it is more expensive to do so. New construction will usually have 14 gauge in the bedrooms, General lighting, general area like hallways & bathroom lights. It's not uncommon to have two small bedrooms with a bathroom in between them wired with a single 14-gauge circuit. I find 12-gauge will have less tripping issues especially when it comes to using vacuums and hair dryers. Areas that are required for residential to have 12-gauge is the circuits serving the kitchen counter tops, dining area outlets, washing machine, microwave and the bathroom receptacles. Remember NEC is the MINIMUM code requirement. You can always put larger wires. 12-gauge won't fit in the stab ins in the back as you know. The stab ins I will never use because that was designed to speed up the trimming process of new construction for the electricians, but it is a much worse connection than using the side terminals. (I did use them while I was learning the trade and trimming houses) The stab ins make very little contact with the wiring compared to how much better a connection is by using the terminals. I should make a short video explaining how much better is it. Thank you so much for watching and commenting! These comments, liking and subscribing is helping grow the channel. Much appreciated.

[@Fitjaycjr]

@@YourFloridaElectrician thank you appreciate all the information and feedback and yes a video Explaining these details and showing will definitely help us new ppl out!

[@jamesborton9237]

Back-wire is different than 'Back-Stabbing' I NEVER Back stabbed my wires. Back in the day, the Back stabbed holes would accept #12 wire. Even then, I wouldn't Back stab. The higher quality receptacles have Back Wire capability. Lots (most?) GFCI's have Back wire capability. I still enjoy a 'shepard' hook under my terminals, and that is MY standard.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Any shepherds hook is better than a back wire. Thanks for watching and commenting James 👍

[@AFilipinaHavingFun]

Informative video💪

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Glad you liked it

[@jackriley5974]

93 - 94 I worked in Vero on new residential. Jobsites had only one Toilet. Being older than my co-"workers" I arrived onsite before them and got to watch the daily morning routine. Every single one of them went to the toilet to toke-up before putting on their tools. The foreman got me fired for following code. Moved on to supervising construction on a hospital project rife with fraud. Apparently the construction industry in Florida at the time was stinking. I doubt very much that it has changed??

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Wow that stinks. That hasn’t been my experience working here luckily. Most everyone has been legit and we now have random drug testing so to toke-up may cost you your job these days. 🤔

[@josemsantiago7524]

Very good video thank you.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Thank you for watching. Apologies for being so long. Seems most people prefer the short video but hard to get a lot of information into a short. I enjoy making the video for people like you Jose. Appreciate the comment. Consider liking, sharing, and subscribing. It really does help this channel. 🙏

[@kelvin7881]

Not sure if I’m correct but wouldn’t it be better to splice the line so if the first receptacle goes bad the second one will still work?

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

You certainly can do that. You can "pigtail" the blacks then whites and grounds together then feed each outlet from this pigtail. This is one way of doing it. Thanks for watching and commenting, Kelvin. 👍👍

[@alanyoder7629]

Using jumpers is a lousy way to wire. They should have been pigtailed off the feed wire. Wiring in parallel is smarter than wiring in series like this guy did. If one outlet fails it will kill both his way. I fixed several that were done like this at my daughters house. With Wago connectors it’s fast and easy and a better job. His way works but is not a good job.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Thanks for the comment Alan. I like wagos also. Just one of many ways of doing it. From outlet to outlet that’s how it’s done in the walls of most residential. The wago way is more like commercial where you can remove one outlet and it doesn’t affect the rest. I like to put electrical tape on my wagos also, because I noticed they tend to easily open up and become loose connections. 99% of residential homes people will find their outlets connected in this manner shown in the video. Commercial guys hate to wire the way shown. Thank you for your input.

[@Kat-on3nm]

Daisey Channing is very common wiring method but pig tailing may be a better method in most cases but more time consuming and more material involved.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

I did recently do another video using more of a commercial method. I like to show multiple methods. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p2jJiWV3e914iJYsi=LQMpuhR7Sz51wxZG

[@dbdouglas]

My dumb question is, did the ungrounded outlet work before the fix?

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

The only dumb questions are the ones not asked. Yes it worked. But, if I used a product and had a ground fault of some sort I could receive a shock or worse. Better to be grounded. I don't want to be the ground! Thank you for watching and commenting!

[@dbdouglas]

@@YourFloridaElectrician One outlet I have tests as "ungrounded" and has some electrical current, but won't power anything plugged into it. Not sure what next steps should be, short of calling an electrician.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Anything less than 120 volts -5% or down to 114 volts can damage electronics or makes items not work. Have you tried to borrow a multimeter so you can get the actual voltage off of the outlet?

[@amyrosesiblagcausapin]

❤❤❤❤

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Thanks again 🙏

[@ox3289]

Who ever wired your home didn't wire it right. The whole house should be torn out and professionally install new wiring. Why? You never leave wires laying all over nothing is fastened down, wiring all over the place. A fire waiting to happen. Why didn't you have a professional home inspector ( Electrician) To tell you the truth a Home inspector to inspect the whole house. Not just wiring.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Believe it or not, the whole house was inspected. Only thing they found was the home needed smoke detectors. (For good reason.!) All the wiring has been replaced slowly slowly. This house was built in 1915 and was added onto a couple times. I agree about removing deleted wiring, and I made a short about that. How unprofessional is leaving it there. These houses need the right person to come along to fix them properly. Thanks for watching commenting !

[@elainebelzDetroit]

You don't attach the boxes to studs?

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Usually attached the boxes to studs during new construction rough in. (Before drywall) If I’m installing a two gang for say a dryer outlet (after drywall) I would certainly use a cut in box and then screw it to the stud on the side. The outlets are really hard to plug in and a cut in box alone without proper support will punch right into the wall. The cut in boxes are typically for what we call old work in a house after construction has been completed. Good point, and good observation thank you for watching. Please consider liking, sharing in subscribing it really helps. 🤙

[@elainebelzDetroit]

@@YourFloridaElectrician Thank you for such a detailed response! I have a lot to learn and definitely have subscribed. 🙂 I probably won't be doing much, if any, of the work that needs to be done on my new (to me) 100-yr-old house, but I like to understand things. I have a good electrician, but it's going slowly because I'm really short on funds. Mine's the kind of old house with 2-prong outlets in 8" high baseboards. One bedroom doesn't have a single outlet in it! Good thing it's just a spare room I'm not using yet. (I'd like to put a TV in there.) More pressing are getting outlets put in for appliances, though. My electrician has run a new line for the drop-in stove I got used (which has to be hard-wired). I like the idea of a new line (hope I'm using a term that makes sense) for each major appliance, since I don't know what state all the wiring is in this house.

[@elainebelzDetroit]

FWIW, I'm in Detroit.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

This house is 108 years old. Still a lot of rewiring needs to be done. On the kitchen make your electrician pulls two new updated appliance circuits. That is code minimum. 20 amps each. Plus of course the stove wire.

[@alhawkins3376]

@@YourFloridaElectrician not really, It was a code change you can run a disposal & washer on a 15a circuit if nothing else is on it, The equipment rating is what rules all and the 80% rule or 50% so if the combined amp rating is over 12a = 80% of a 15a circuit rating you must then use #12 wire. Check section 210 .23 Its 50% for fixed equipment, its rules that apply not just wire size or running a 20a.

[@DanielinLaTuna]

I’m not convinced it’s “drywall”, looks more like plaster over lath. Which would have been standard for a house that old. My brother’s house in Hollywood was built in 1922, and all the walls/ceilings were lath and plaster.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Hey Daniel. It's definitely something thicker than drywall. It's almost like a very thick fiber board of some sort. Not super hard to work with like plaster however. Yes over lath or other type of wood. Build like a brick Sh*t house for sure. Makes it not easy to work on in some regards but easier in others. (no insulation in the walls, easy to pull new wiring down) Thank you so much for watching and commenting! Good Eye!

[@jackriley5974]

It's a product called Homasote and was popular in the early 1900s. Hard to work with as proven by the fact he didn't show how to patch it.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

@@jackriley5974 still haven’t patched it. Any pointers?

[@jackriley5974]

@@YourFloridaElectrician Damned near impossible. It's not the patching, its the finishing, especially on a home that old. Homasote is very porous and nearly impossible to sand. The patch(not necessarily Homasote) would have to be recessed to allow for mud thereby, eliminating having to mess with sanding. Thankfully someone discovered sheetrock to replace it. An anecdote: About that time someone invented Celotex which is little more than tar soaked Homasote, and that got it promoted to exterior sheathing. For obvious reasons that didn't last long either.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

@@jackriley5974 Thank you for that explanation. Yeah I will probably just drywall over it.

[@sjpropertyservices3987]

I understand why you decided to install the quadplex. However, running wire behind mopboard/trim can be done safely. Here is an example of how it can be done. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pIjJdnSEj7SMic0

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Agreed. In that video he took off the mop board and installed the wiring through the framing members. I don’t like seeing the wiring between the mob board and the drywall. Thanks for commenting.

[@sjpropertyservices3987]

@@YourFloridaElectrician Agreed

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Thanks for that link. Always interest in learning!

[@keithpurdy5897]

For that small job and to save time and money I would install a GFCI. Both outlets will be protected. 10 minutes done, gone to the next job.

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

That’s true, it will be protected, but not grounded. The work done in this video was on my old ass house. A lot of the wiring here needs updating anyway so why not show any way to ground. Of course the GFCI would work. In the future, I want to add a GFCI on the opposite side of the wall outside for future low-voltage lighting or flag pole lights. (another video coming.) I always appreciate the comments. Thanks for watching

[@robertstonebreaker8394]

Nice work pain in the ass change all that wires out but nice to know you won’t take the hit if something shorts out .

[@YourFloridaElectrician]

Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍