Restore your wooden PLANE to outperform all others.

[@startmaking1]

I hope you enjoy the video. Please consider subscribing for more.

[@themeat5053]

Mark, now you see the brilliance of these vintage tools. It's nice to have something bright and shiny but, tried and true is still the best the way I see it. It reminds me of when the wife and I were in our twenties and now are close to seventy. We did a lot of stuff when we were first married, but it's way better now (except for one or two things, if you know what I mean).

[@startmaking1]

Hi. You are right. I love them. I like the marriage comparison. I get it. I was using my vintage no 4 Stanley to clean up a vintage wooden plane. What could be better?

[@themeat5053]

@@startmaking1 nothing could be

[@annthirkettle4843]

Great video, I have a similar plane which belonged to my Grandad who during the WWII made the propellers for the spitfires. Now I will try to bring it back to it’s former glory Thank you again for the video.👏

[@startmaking1]

Thankyou Ann. What a lovely history to that tool. A real keeper.

[@DragonShiryu123]

For western wooden hand planes, to remove the blade you hit the striking button on the front, which is different from japanese wooden hand planes. You can see the striking button on your plane at the very front where you might have thought a tote used to be that "broke off", but that's actually the original design and that's what you hit to remove the blade. Just make sure you're holding the back of the plane when you strike it and allow the plane to basically go towards the ground, the inertia of the blade will loosen it as you strike it. Rex Krueger has some good videos on these traditional western wooden hand planes.

[@startmaking1]

Hi. Thank you so much for taking the time to comment and for being so informative. I initially thought it was a handle but then it appears to be leather. I will have a practice tomorrow trying to loosen the iron. Much appreciated. I will also look at some rex kreuger videos. I do watch him but not on wooden planes. Very much appreciate how much I learn in the comments. Thank you

[@doczoff5655]

The rust pitting might be causing additional friction, making it harder to adjust ( ie it's not you that's the issue😊). As you've already surmised, with not too much practice you'll have it mastered. All of my wooden planes respond slightly differently to adjustment taps, it's just part of their character😊. Have you tried waxing the sole for extra glide? If not get ready for a big smile😊😊

[@duncanstreet4955]

Great job with restoring the plane- you can tell how satisfying it is to use it. Well done!

[@startmaking1]

In all honesty I was a little emotional at how it felt. hard to describe. Made me feel like I had done something special for myself. Something like that. Thank you for watching,.

[@zapa1pnt]

Hi, Mark. Wow. Now That is how a plane is supposed to work. I think the pleasure comes from using some thing so simple and inexpensive (except the time and work to make it), to get such perfect results. So, now, when someone is bragging to you, about their collection of expensive planes and asks you what kind you use, you can reply, "Me?, oh, I use a block of wood." 😁✌🖖

[@startmaking1]

That is so true. It really is just a block of wood. I think that this is the reason that it was so satisfying to work on as it is what I love doing. I am not a metal worker after all. The pleasure is absolutely from the simplicity of it and the feel of getting such a great shaving. Not one of my other planes does this. So either I am doing them wrong or this is just set up really well. Im scared to adjust the iron depth . Thank you for the info link for the plane website. So much info I may take a few years to read it all. Very interesting

[@billffromnh]

Nice job on the restoration, particularly since you got better results than you had expected. Now you have another fine tool to work with in the years to come. I don't own any old wooden planes to restore but I sometimes think about making a small wooden plane just so I can say I did.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Bill. Hope you are well. Shocked is more the word than surprised. I was sceptical as to whether I could even make this worth displaying. What a bonus. Making one would be awesome, probably more than a little frustrating too but overall so satisfying. I was considering making a few others, a scrapper and a router plane being just a few but time is always short.

[@mickeyfilmer5551]

You've done a really nice job bringing that plane back to life- and tbh those diamond stones are worth their weight in gold for sharpening all blades- especially tough ones like this plane. Graet Video.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Mickey. You are spot on. they did a lot of work on this one. Thank you again for watching.

[@LpDesignBuid]

Thanks for the video on restoring an old wooden plane. It demonstrates that it can be done with good results. Also points out that sharpening is critical. I notice you have a new layout for your sharpening stones. Well done.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you again for binge watching,

[@To-Lo77]

Great video on your process to get the plane to great working order. Extremely & oddly satisfying angles you were able to capture while demonstrating how well it worked 👌 👏 . Thank you once again, for your content! I've been enjoying your content 💪! Tony 🇺🇸

[@startmaking1]

Hi Tony. I did have fun with the camera angles. I actually tried it with my sander and it was no where near as interesting. No surprise really , thank you for such a nice comment. and of course for watching. Makes it worth while,

[@mrstandfast2212]

Welcome to the wonderful world of old wooden planes. They are an absolute joy. Be warned, they can become an obsession, and once you start with moulding planes, plough planes, rebate planes etc, you'll be happily lost for ever. Your surprise is something I've seen on the faces of many who use a well set up example for the first time. While there is much talk as to why they feel so different, I'm convinced that it's the comparative lack of friction from the sole of a wooden plane compared to a metal one.

[@startmaking1]

You know what Mr Standfast. I think you are right. Although the metal sole is smooth to look at and touch, I bet it carried more friction than the wooden one. I also found the wooden one far lighter and better balanced.

[@melainekerfaou8418]

It's also the same feeling I had with my wooden plane (but more are about to be restored and resoled): they glide better. Hardly any need for waxing the sole. And they are lighter. Maybe just the lower weight reduces friction, or maybe wood-on-wood (esp. hard/seasoned wood on one side) has a lower coefficient of friction as steel on wood. Anyway, I've just bought 9 pristine wooden planes for 80€ and can't wait to restore them.

[@startmaking1]

9 planes. Wow, you are very lucky.

[@thomasmcglynn5353]

Great result mark

[@startmaking1]

Hi Thomas. Thank you very much. Much appreciated.

[@Vazik05]

You went meta on us planing a plane with a plane. That's just plain briliant. :D

[@startmaking1]

Love that. Wish I had thought of it . Lol

[@bhartissimo]

Great job with that hand plane!

[@startmaking1]

Thank you kindly. Much appreciated

[@burnstockwoodworking]

Wow, that looks like a fun and intensive project. I have two that I'm about to do and glad you made this video on how to do it! Thanks!

[@startmaking1]

Hey Marcus. Thank you for watching. Was really fun to do. Not sure mine should be classed as a how to but I am happy if it helps anyone. Love how well your bird table build video went. Well done.

[@projectrebuild908]

Nice project. Wood connecting wood, connecting the user to both.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Project Rebuild. Thank you for watching and for commenting. I love the wood connecting wood thought. I was trying to make something of planing a plane.

[@projectrebuild908]

@Start Making (Woodworking) interesting how you feel about it. How you use hand planes but this one has changed you.

[@startmaking1]

@@projectrebuild908 yeah. Must have caught me on a rare emotional day. Its weird how you can feel connected to the wood you work on.

[@zapa1pnt]

@@startmaking1: I think you will find, as you get older, you will have more of those. It gets difficult, to deal with. 😁✌🖖

[@wesandell]

There are 2 main difference between wooden and metal planes. The wooden sole glides across wood much easier than a metal hand plane. You don't really need to lubricate the sole on a wooden plane that much, maybe once in a long while wax the bottom. Also, wooden planes are much lighter than a metal bodied plane. Which is often contrary to what many modern plane makers do with making really thick casting or even bronze castings. They of course look beautiful, but are contrary to practicality. If you only use hand tools to dimension lumber, you don't want heavy planes, which will tire you out quickly. You actually want lighter planes that you can use for longer. A truly sharp blade overcomes any benefit gained from the increased momentum of a heavier plane. So, wooden planes are lighter, and glide across wood much easier than metal bodied planes. That is what gives you a completely different experience than using a metal bodied plane. The main difference of course is learning how to adjust the blade with a hammer, which seems very intimidating compared to the ease of adjusting a bailey pattern plane. But, like all things it just takes some practice to get the hang of it.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Wesandell. Thank you for such a detailed comment. Very much appreciated. Adjusting the blade is going to take a fair amount of practise I suspect. But given how much I have enjoyed using this one I don't really mind the practise.

[@red58impala]

Thanks for the video and your thoughts on restoring a hand plane. After restoring a basket case coffin smoother I found, I really prefer using wooden planes over the metal ones. I hope to one day to move away from metal bodied planes, though I do plan to keep some of them, and use wooden body planes almost exclusively. I would eventually like to make all my own planes with some vintage ones to round out my hand plane arsenal.

[@startmaking1]

I could not agree more. I have just acquired a coffin plane and cant wait to restore it.

[@eggster71]

I picked up a jack and jointer during lockdown in a similar state to yours. I agree. Once you get them "there" they're great. Almost no friction and much lighter than the metal equivalent.

[@eggster71]

Great video by the way. 👍

[@startmaking1]

Hi eggster. Thank you for both comments. You are right, it is the friction and weight that makes the wooden plane so fun. I was thinking today about how many times I have seen them in the past made into lamps or other tings by people. crazy.

[@eggster71]

@Start Making (Woodworking) yes. A shame to see what some people do to them but then a lot are actually pa's saving I guess... The same with hand saws. Actually...workbenches as well. 🤣

[@Bluuuz]

A very relaxing and therapeutic watch. Thx. I always keep my eye out for old tools in charity shops and the like but so far have only come across a small engineering square (which I love).

[@startmaking1]

Thank you. I love scouring the charity shops for these. I have one local to me that stocks old tools and there can be a few gems to be found. Trouble with a lot is that they can easily find out what they have so a bargain is tricky. Car boot is a better option if there is one close.

[@TootEmCarMan]

That was some very nice and consistant shavings. :) Well done.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Toot. Thank you. I was genuinely shocked. And very pleased. Nice little project and super beginner friendly which was a surprise. Way easier than a Stanley refurb for instance.

[@TootEmCarMan]

@@startmaking1 Agreed. I had to bin my Stanley refurb as it was rusted solid and I then found a big crack hiding under the rust on the bottom. I got a cheap Spear & Jackson plane (£26 new) which is ok but the good thing is the Stanley iron fits it.

[@startmaking1]

@TootEmCarMan that sucks. I bought some recently that were cracked. Nothing really you can do value wise. If the weld is good they can still be used but if you have to pay someone to weld it then the value isn't there in my opinion. I just keep what parts I can like you have with the iron and the rest is junk.

[@startmaking1]

can't reply to your most recent post sadly. I am planning on building up a supply of spare irons and then I can have different bevels and grinds that way I don't need to store a load of planes, just a few and swap out the irons. Have a scrub iron, some smoothing irons etc. As for the discord server, I was considering it but my skills are poor at best when it comes to that sort of thing. Plus I see that most KZbinrs charge for that sort of thing and I don't want to go down that route for the moment as I can't add enough value like months q and a's and the like. I definitely want to do anything I can to enhance the community because that is really something I am enjoying. one thing I did think of was to have a free for all discord for a year or so and then maybe begin to charge membership once the channel has grown, if it grows. That was the older followers get the chance to have it for free.

[@paulroberts7561]

I was always taught at school woodwork class and by my father who was an engineering pattern maker. Never put a plane face down on the bench, always lay it on it's side.

[@startmaking1]

Better safe than sorry I guess. Each to their own.

[@christopherharrison6724]

It is so satisfying to tune up a wooden plane and get it to work the way you have,and hitting the strike button or the back of the plane will work maybe you need to clean up the iron seat .

[@startmaking1]

hi. 100% agree. I have packed a few tools away for a few months. As soon as this comes out I will investigate. Thank you

[@robertr2731]

Love the Moxon vice too. Perfect sole dressing! 👍🏻

[@startmaking1]

In my top 5 most used accessories easily.

[@robertr2731]

@@startmaking1 Totally agree!

[@pianokid103]

I have been having issues getting my hand plane (transitional, #29 I believe) sharp, but after watching this, it appears I just need to take more time. Your results seem worth the effort! Great shavings.

[@startmaking1]

The results are definitely worth the effort. And the one thing that I changed with my sharpening that had a huge effect was taking more time on the higher grits and strop. You will get it, one day it will click.

[@pianokid103]

​ @startmaking1 Thank you for the encouragement! I think this plane just needs much more love than I've given it so far, haha, since I bought it used and it the blade has a chip I've not gotten out yet. Other than sharpness, it seems pretty capable, and for a big plane (nearly jointer-sized) was much more affordable than a jointer. Yours looks sized to around a jack-plane, which is great; with the wooden body, it shouldn't feel too heavy (mine doesn't).

[@teacheme]

I love the sound of wood being planed, it's so relaxing. Good job with the restoration although (slight criticism?) I did notice that at the end when you touched the plane handle it wobbled. Is that your bench that's at fault or the plane base. Either way it makes me want to tackle my collection of wooden planes.

[@startmaking1]

That is so true. And you can hear a sharp iron I think. oo, I didn't notice the plane handle wobbling. Do you mean the wooden one. I thought it was rick solid. I better go spend some more time in the shed to check. The bench definitely wobbles but then so does the shed at the moment. Could have been either one of those. Side note, I would never take criticism from you badly. It can't always be agreement and support like you offer. I would see it as learning from your experience.

[@teacheme]

@@startmaking1 Lovely sound. It wasn't the handle I noticed wobble but the plane itself as if it was not flat, but as I said it could be your bench that's wonky like one of mine.

[@startmaking1]

@@teacheme Ah, I see. That is interesting. I really hope it is my awful workbench. I have been working on a rickety cupboard I made years ago for crap. Sadly my very sturdy bench is too close to the windows and wall to film on and is now a very large storage shelf for clutter. I better check the plane though. I really hope I flattened it right.

[@pazmaniaoh6341]

Nice work!

[@startmaking1]

Hi Jacob. thank you very much.

[@peteryoung5791]

Nice plane...... What you think was grease was very likely a build up of Linseed oil and wax used by the loving previous owner.... If you don't keep the wood moist like all wood it will dry out and warp or likely split.... There are many videos from older masters that show how to maintain and upgrade/improve wooden (Block) planes..... It really can be the best plane you own... Great find I must admit I felt envious... Cheers for an entertaining video.. :)

[@startmaking1]

Thank you. In hindsight, you are most likely right. And thank you for your kind comment. I love this thing, the feel is unparalleled in my shop.

[@semperfidelis5979]

I have a nearly identical wooden plane, blade and all. It was made by Mathieson in Glasgow. Is your plane branded ? If so, it would have been a stamp on the rear vertical face. There is no tote at the front in mine, and there is no problem withdrawing the iron, although the wedge in mine seems longer than in your plane. I vouch for the ability of the plane and the quality of the iron. We share the satisfaction of using a very capable vintage tool.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Semper. I can see an imprint on the top of the iron but I don't think that there is anything on the back. There are a lot of user initials. Seems they may have had a habit of wandering off. The wedge on this one is possibly not the original. There was a spare in the auction lot and maybe that one is a better fit, will try. Also one of the parts that holds the wedge in has snapped off at some stage. I may try to replace it. Though for not the wedge holds better than needed. The iron really shocked me, the edge is amazing.

[@JohnColgan.]

Nice junk find. Great restore. I live the historic bowtie repair. Seeing how good the wood planes are, its surprising we went to iron Stanley Bailey planes! PS. Its usual to use Boiled Linseed Oil to feed & protect a wooden plane, it just stinks !! ( I don't know how James Wright manages😕😉)

[@startmaking1]

Im not sure I could handle the smell and he just daubs it on with his hands. It does a wonderful job but I'm not sure lol

[@timothymallon]

If you're having problems getting the iron and wedge out by using a mallet, it's possible that the wooden wedge has swelled and gotten to tight, or the iron and chip breaker aren't the correct ones for the plane. You can adjust this with floats or even a file if you don't have floats. Start in small strokes and test. The iron and chip breaker should easily go to the bottom, but not have any slop from side to side. Then place the wedge in. The wedge has a particular spot that it should also feel good in. It should drop in fine, until just before it wedges. I don't know if that makes sense. But you will get a feel for it. I usually drop my iron in, with my hand on the mouth and as soon as I feel it coming out, I pull back just a bit and wedge it. Then I place it on the table and set it with a mallet.

[@startmaking1]

Hi Timothy. I am pretty sure that the wedge and iron are not original to the plane and that could be a big part of the issue. Thank you do much for such great advice. I shall take a look today and see if I can make the adjustment process a little easier. Much appreciated.

[@wilyjetset]

Hi this might have been said already, but try a metal hammer to adjust it rather than a wooden mallet. Hit the button or the rear to shock the iron up (and out); tap the iron itself to set. That looks like a very, very well-used plane btw - that's probably not its first mouth repair and is that a replacement wedge too? I restored one a while back - well I sharpened it and flattened the sole a bit! - and it's become my favourite long plane by a mile.

[@startmaking1]

That does work a little better , thank you. It's not perfect but I think it is a mismatch of pieces. Still love it

[@brucewelty7684]

Now to create the tote for the front of it.!

[@startmaking1]

should it have a front tote. I didn't know

[@1pcfred]

@@startmaking1 no

[@BrainFizz]

@@startmaking1thats the striking button, its not a tote.

[@robohippy]

I do have a couple of this style planes. Every single one has cracks through out the body. I figure this is because of the thickness of the body. You can not ever dry 12 quarter wood to a state of 'equilibrium' because of the thickness of the wood. The inside will always be at a higher moisture content than the outside. This creates stress, and as we all know, stress is relieved by cracking. Why they never made them with about a 1 inch hole drilled through the center so the wood will reach equilibrium is beyond me. As for the plane iron, the style of blade you have is probably hand forged with a softer metal for the main body, and a harder metal forged in for the cutting edge. There is a method used on the Japanese plane irons where you hammer the softer metal, gently to change the shape of the blade from edge to edge. More taps on the outside edges if the bottom is concave. More taps on the center if the iron is convex. That would have saved you a lot of time on the abrasives.

[@startmaking1]

Great advice, Thank you.

[@magnustveten492]

I find that the wooden planes glide quite differently than the metal ones.

[@startmaking1]

totally different feel, absolutely agree. thank you for watching.

[@thomashverring9484]

From looking at it, it seems like one of the abutments is missing (what the wedge wedge against). That's a pretty severe problem and would normally mean that the plane is trash. Maybe you have to seat the wedge that much harder because of that, which in turn means you have problems moving the iron back out.

[@startmaking1]

You are right. There is a piece missing and I am surprised that the iron even holds in. the adjustment is an issue and I think I may try to replace the piece see if that helps.

[@thomashverring9484]

@@startmaking1 It's worth the experiments! Maybe you'll end up making your own plane ;)

[@startmaking1]

That would be awesome. Now I want to make a plane.

[@michaelwillson6847]

M8 as always another cracking video and that plane came up beautiful although a knew it would in your capable hands. The danish oil didn't give u the finish u wanted cause your using the wrong brand. The best one on market I've found and I've tried a few is by watco a think it is I'll send u a picture of the one a use it's natural colour and it's amazing. Again though as u said few other things and it'll be a cracking day to day plane 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿👍

[@startmaking1]

You are right about the danish oil Michael. I have a better one that I got after you recommended the stuff. This one was just lying around and to hand. Will throw some of the good stuff on it and see the difference.,

[@michaelwillson6847]

@@startmaking1 yea a must say when we done the kitchen a bought about 6 different kinds from cheap to pretty expensive and honestly that watco one is mid range price and it's best ave found. Plane looks wicked though.

[@michaelwillson6847]

@@startmaking1 other thing a meant say not sure if ave said to u about it. Sanding pads for the drill 2" pad. A got a pack off eBay a think and it comes with the attachment to add onto the drill and about a hundred pads and they go up to think 5000 grit might be worth look for polishing up the iron??

[@startmaking1]

@Michael Willson that's a good idea. Maybe should have tried it on the bevel to.get it done quicker . Not sure on the heat and how that would affect things

[@startmaking1]

@Michael Willson thank you. Glad you did the research. Saves me testing

[@robertr2731]

Great video. Americans don't like wooden planes as a rule. I'm an exception to this rule. I only use wooden planes.

[@startmaking1]

They re something else and over here I see them a lot. Just bought another. I may be getting addicted.

[@robertr2731]

@@startmaking1 You and me both 😊

[@petrsidlo7614]

I'll post a longer comment later, but as far as the iron not coming out when hitting the strike button, try checking the back of the wedge from imprints of the chip breaker. If the chip breaker gets too much embedded into the wedge over time a form a clear Imprint (sort of like a step) they will become a unit only moving together and you lose adjustibility. Second, try filing the bed flat, if the bed is incosistent, the iron might get stuck in one place. Third, I cannot see it too clearly but it looks like the rebate on the right side that should hold the wedge is chipped off, so I am surprised that the wedge holds at all. Other than that, nice repair.

[@startmaking1]

Hi, What an amazing comment. Thank you so much for your help. I am always blown away by how helpful people are here and how much I learn. I will check the wedge, that is a great idea. And you are right, the one rebate has chipped off. The wedge is well held but I may have to make another one so that I don't have to tighten the wedge so much. Thank you

[@petrsidlo7614]

@@startmaking1 Another thing that just occurred to me -- is that a leather mallet? It may very well bee just too soft and light to use on that plane. I use regular hammers, I have three sizes, smallest one for smoother sized planes for little adjustments, medium one for regular adjustment on smoother sized planes and classic framing hammer for a jack/jointer sized planes like yours. There is so much surface area that you really need a good whack for them to move. The plane itself looks nice, I especially love the wooden insert at the mouth of the plane, that tells you that someone used it a good bunch and knew what they were doing when they repaired it. I cant get my hands on old planes easily, but I buy new wooden ones really cheap thanks to them being made locally to me. The sometimes take a good amount of time putting into workable condittion (shaping the wedge and handle, flattening the sole, pairing the iron and the chip breaker), but so far their irons were excellent and hold up really well. But like you said, no plane feels better than this. They wood on wood contact just cannot be beat (by the way, I still wax the sole, you dont have to, but the difference is noticeable). Last tip, if plan on using it as a jack plane, try cambering the blade a tiny bit, just by pushing more on each side a few times while doing the micro bevel, it helps out a ton. Lovely repair and I'll be looking for more from this channel.

[@startmaking1]

I totally missed this great reply. Apologies. Yes it was a hide mallet. I struggled with the harder ones too sadly but I am working on it.

[@petrsidlo7614]

@@startmaking1 no worries. i think that nobody can properly teach you about planes and their use. everyone does things a little bit different a not everything will work for you. so the only important thing is practice and in time you will find what fits you. and a little lesson i found the hard way, when you flatten wooden planes regularly, check not only flatness, but also that the sole is 90 degrees to the sides, or you might start wondering why is it so hard to se the iron correctly from side to side

[@startmaking1]

@@petrsidlo7614 Oh yeah, good point. I definitely would have not thought of that . Thank you

[@toonybrain]

Someone had already patched up this plane in its history: that butterfly graft-in on the sole wasn’t original.

[@startmaking1]

Yeah, they did a great job too.

[@toonybrain]

@@startmaking1 Agree. I was checking it out. 🙂

[@christopherharrison6724]

Great job but I don’t think your supposed to oil the base.

[@startmaking1]

Oh really. I just assumed. Interesting. I need to investigate,. Thank you

[@urbansenicar81]

I'm certainly no authority, but there go my two cents. Wood is lighter. That also means it needs shallow cut and sharp blades. Old wooden planes are lighter than new ones. First plane should always be old, as it's already been set in the past. I have a hard time adjusting a new wooden plane. Fiddle with the adjustments all the time. No need to let them sit. And I do mean all the time. This IMO is really the difference. Wooden planes do not bend your piece (on the count of light weight and pressure). You don't then flatten with big, heavy strokes from one end to the other xy times, but just let the plane pick the high spots. Start in the middle and stay on the high spots. Bend you knees and push (throw) the plane, do not put your weight onto the plane.

[@startmaking1]

Thank you for your insight. Really interesting. It makes sense.

[@urbansenicar81]

@@startmaking1 These are just my observation.

[@karolskakes388]

I see this video is one year old - Have you learned how to wack the blade about?? Great fun wood on wood - the old timers knew!!

[@startmaking1]

I am improving but far from perfecting it. You are right though, old timers had it right for sure.

[@monikasaringer1152]

I have my Dad's old planes & tools, which I don't think I'm sharpening properly, he was original old school carpenter & I regret not learning anything from him, being young & not interested at the time, so much knowledge lost....sorry Dad

[@startmaking1]

I totally get it. But it's not always possible to do everything 'right'. You have time now to enjoy using the tools and that is brilliant.