Retro Bicycle Hub Overhaul

[@gcntech]

Do you think refurbishing hubs will be your next DIY project? 🤩 Let us know in the comments what you thought of this video & what bike maintenance topic you'd like to see us cover next!

[@traderz13]

Yes, but can you give specific details on what metal polish used and what the buffing thing is exactly on your drill? Thanks

[@TESTA-CC]

Top stuff Alex, 🤙🤙

[@johnflynn4923]

@@traderz13 Autosol - great metal polish - if you don't have a buffer you can still do a good job with a microfiber cloth.

[@chrispig7748]

@@traderz13 think it’s autosol metal polish

[@gbart981]

Look up "degaussing bearings".

[@stuartfreedman6854]

I rode on a pair of 1979 Record hubs for decades. Once a year I rebuilt them like in the video. That old Campagnolo stuff is SUCH a joy to work on. Sets up right first time every time.

[@newhorizons.english]

Overhauling bike parts is a weirdly satisfying thing

[@matt_acton-varian]

I am loving the vintage and retro gear content recently released, keep it up! Makes a refreshing change from all the high end latest and greatest (as much as I also enjoy modern gear). I am lucky enough to ride an aero bike that is only around 8 years old, and a bike that is nearly 80. Both very enjoyable and very different to ride. I would highly recommend to any cyclist who hasn't had the opportunity to ride a classic bike. Not only doo you appreciate the convenience modern tech more, but also admire the craftsmanship of the people who built these beautiful machines.

[@martinslennon]

I use a lot of older wheels, I have found damaged and pitted cones on old hubs, it's easy to order the cones and replace, even if the wheel is fully assembled. The locknut can be removed and then unscrew the cone with the axle in place, then fit a replacement, install the locknut and adjust the cones, lock it up and it's ready to cycle!

[@chrispig7748]

I had these exact hubs when I started racing age 17. I used to break the back axle on the right side where the freewheel would screw on. Easy to look after apart from taking the freewheel off. Changed to shimano freehub , totally reliable and no more broken axles! I was neither heavy or strong in those days

[@stephensaines7100]

The inboard bearing on the right side rear axle has historically been an issue with freewheel hubs. The quality of replacement axles varies radically. On my present machine (Renovated by Argos early eighties) I dropped from a 7spd freewheel to 6 specifically to reduce the amount of axle bending and snapping. (It's 5mm shorter) One finds oneself going through various axles before finding one that's up to the task of rough riding. That being said, I'm going freehub next season, albeit just 8spd, as finding quality freewheels has become an impossible task. I'm spreading the dropouts to 130mm from present 126mm, but still keeping my wonderful Stronglight 99 front triples and keeping downtube shifters. 8spd indexed shifters are still available. I gave up friction shifting the rear two seasons back. The chain, cog and other factors make friction shifting a mug's game nowdays save for front triples.

[@scottbradbury4094]

So satisfying to use your own hands to bring a forgotten part back to life.

[@generalporkchop1817]

My fond memories of those old style rear hubs were bent and broken axles. Freehubs fixed that problem forever.

[@ryuujinusa]

Very cool. Recently cleaned a modern hub myself for the first time. Glad to see stuff like this.

[@qaefaeqf]

I ride a vintage bike and those cup and cone bearings are the components I'd be the happiest to get rid of the most (already replaced the bottom bracket with an Hollowtech II, still have the cup and cone on the wheels), I struggle to find the sweet spot, not over tightened but without having play, and it happens that it gets loose anyway so I need to repeat the process

[@matt_acton-varian]

It is a dark art to master. But if set up correctly can run just as smooth and freely as cartridge bearings.

[@cptjeff1]

Yeah, that's the hardest part. I find it's best to get them exactly right, tighten down the outside nuts, which will get the wheel too tight, then use the cone wrenches to jam the cones back out against the outside nut.

[@qaefaeqf]

@@cptjeff1 Thanks, I'll try next time

[@mkrug1149]

I run a garage bike shop and never use pitted cones, I always resurface them. I chuck the axle with one cone on the other end in a floor mounted drill press. I use a small round file and wrap 80 grit sandpaper around it to start. You can change to finer paper if needed. If you go to a bike shop, the newer cones are usually smaller than the 80's bikes and usually the wrong threads. I also figured out a way to resurface the cups with great results.

[@immortalclass]

Using a vice to hold the locknut gives you two free hands, one for the loosened cone and one for the opposite cone. Adjusting is much faster and easier. Balls are disposables, use new high grade.

[@bubblesezblonde]

Enjoyed it Felix. Fer you youngin's remember t REALLY pack that grease into any bearing overhaul!!! Thanks

[@gerrybaillon1973]

I'm shocked you re-assembled it with wanked cones !!

[@wearejames1]

Yes, what a bodge, didn't even put new ball bearings in, they cost very little, so why wouldn't you.....

[@stephensaines7100]

@@wearejames1 Absolutely agreed on both.

[@Scatology900]

they won't be use anyways. IT was just for the video.

[@StevenNassibian]

@@wearejames1 Total bodge.

[@benzzoy]

@6:43 They also mixed the left and right side balls, which is not preferred as used balls can have different wear, particularly when there's damage/pitting on the cup and/or cone (as is the case here), and thus should be matched. In addition, loose balls are so inexpensive (or they used to be so inexpensive) that it's not uncommon to simply replace them.

[@ghowell13]

I restore vintage BMX bikes. The sheer number of hubs I've stripped, cleaned and serviced are astounding. The number includes a fair few that were anodized. I either stripped and polished, then sent out to the UK (I'm in the US) to have re anno'd, along with the same for brake calipers, stems, other bits, so they would all match, or just polish them all up and leave as was. A bench grinder, with big 6 inch wheels on, is best for that bit of the job (polishing up). It takes a lot longer the way you did it, Alex, but certainly gets it done! Edit: if you want the satin finish left after cleaning and polishing all the nicks out, find a sandblasting place, and have them sandblast it with ultra fine media.

[@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589]

In the 90s, working in bike shops, every Monday morning after the weekend sprint/climbing efforts, at least several, & often half a dozen or more rear wheels (Maillard through to Campag Record) would be hung up in the repair area, needing their axles replacing. I had a box full of Wheels Manufacturing cro-moly M10 x 1 axles, which needed constant refilling. There's the main reason we all use freehubs now. & good luck getting a halfway decent cluster to screw onto it when you're done, or cones to suit (broken axles mash cones).

[@larrylem3582]

Set the axle "preload" so there is none. In fact, set it slightly loose as the QR lever is going to squeeze the axle bits together.

[@stephensaines7100]

Yeah, even for the front, with QR, it's a juggling game.

[@guyd4067]

You forgot the bit where you drop the bearings on the floor and find all but one.

[@gcntech]

a familiar experience...

[@Andi-r2p]

As a teen this was a fairly regular Sunday afternoon job, not because there was anything wrong, we just maintained and cleaned stuff more thoroughly, after the nth time you get pretty expert at it. For about £25 a wheel you can get replacement cones for these hubs, the state of those rears i'd definitely do that.

[@claytonjones5857]

Great video Alex and really looking forward to the rebuild video. Thanks for posting.

[@DominicAPrís]

Am trying to service a Shimano 9-Speed Hub. The tool required for the metal internal left-hand threaded ‘dust cap’ is the TL-FH40. But Shimano don’t make one any more. It is 30mm across with projecting notch lugs (four) but two will do. I have emailed bike shops all over the world but no one, and I mean NO ONE has this tool. They must be gone to the great bicycle tool graveyard which if ever found will be one of the greatest historical discoveries. Online cycle enthusiasts suggest making a customised tool from a 21mm socket with two projecting notch lugs (each 3mm high and 4mm wide) Yesterday I tried it and it came out great BUT….on applying it to the hub the metal of the hub was harder and the tool steel was not of sufficient quality to crack the bind. So, I will have to buy a better quality socket….the things we do for the love of cycling. Wish Shimano had a vintage tool department!

[@TommiHimberg]

Making custom steel tools for your maintenance project - automatic and enthusiastic HACK!

[@G60syncro]

I did that on the Campy hubs on my summer bike. They're mid-90's units that felt a little stiff when I got them. There was a bit of pitting on the ball bearings and one of the rear races was shot as well. I found South Salem Cycleworks online and Michael there hooked me up with some NOS parts. Turned out the race he sent me was mislabeled and would'nt fit. He was great to deal with though, I told him I found a compatible hub body that had the proper races in good condition on eBay. I sent him his part back and he refunded me for it... Again, a great place for old school spares! Once I had all the parts, it all fell together nicely and I should really take the time now that the bike is hung up for the season to do a once-over as a maintenance measure. I also did my pedals the same way for my winter bike... I got an old set of SR flat pedals for cheap and just slapped them on last winter. I probably should have checked them but didn't bother. This year though, I did strip them down and found them to be pristine inside and just about to fall low on grease. I cleaned them up and loaded them with fresh grease and they're doing their stuff in the gritty yuck of Canadian winter for another year. If I keep on top of things, I can't see how they would'nt last forever!!

[@johannesobernoeder1156]

Just two tips: 1) Use a syringe for adding grease. 2) When reassembling the cup & cone hub, you want to add some grease into the hub, then add the balls, add some more grease on top of the balls & put the axle through this side. On the other side, you can still add some grease to the hub (if you haven't done it already), then add the balls, put on some more grease on top of the balls & screw on the cone. You really want to put the dust seal onto the hub as late as possible. It is just a pain tonwork around it. I guess you noticed that as well ...

[@stephensaines7100]

Also putting the cleaned out hubs in the kitchen fridge freezer for fifteen minutes or more thickens the grease greatly to vastly assist in reassembling. Some more exotic greases are thinner, hard to work with, but the freezer makes it much easier with repacking loose balls.

[@emmabird9745]

Alex, nice one. If you put the cone spanners on so that the shanks are close together you can loosen/tighten them by squeezing then together between finger and thumb. This limits how far they can go when they loosen and reduce the likelyhood of barked nuckles or worse. Cones are readily available and easy to change so maybe replacing yours would be a good idea. Also balls are cheap and it is a false economy not to replace them too. Nice to see articles on old stuff.

[@stephensaines7100]

If you can find new cones, or even used ones in good condition, those plus new balls are standard fare for reconditioning. Even higher quality balls are relatively cheap, and there's various companies in the UK that can supply them, even oversized if need be. I know, as I've ordered them in the past for reconditioning loose bearing bottom brackets, TA ones to be precise.

[@stephensaines7100]

[even oversized if need be] And I'm talking the balls, not the races. If you can't find new bearing shells and/or cones, and the pitting is acceptable, the next size oversized bearing balls can re-establish a tighter run. There will be a short break-in period,

[@marklamourine3130]

I'm still riding Mavic hubs and rims. And Sugino 68 bb. Ball bearings are smoooooth. It's critical never to ride them unless they are very well adjusted to avoid pitting and race wear

[@ianlainchbury]

I would have absolutely replaced the sealed bearings, ball bearings and cones. They're reasonably cheap, and if building new wheels with them, they would be tip top. Those cones are toast.

[@riazpatel5296]

I have a set of racing carbon rims, cups, cones and balls are all replaceable, IMHO they are a nightmare for wet conditions, needing immediate attention to prevent rust on the cups and cones, but for dry I haven't found a smoother set of rims, especially after I serviced them with the Campy CULT cups and cones. For the record my primary wheelset uses cartridge bearings, NTN, NSK, SKF. A whole set of bearings for the front, rear and freehub were cheaper that one pair of cups and cones from Campy!!

[@andrewzach1921]

That magnetic pick is brilliant. That never even occurred to me to use something like that.

[@gcntech]

they are a huge help!

[@matt_acton-varian]

​@@gcntechI have a plumber's version of the magnetic hook and pick set, and it is such an underrated tool. I would be lost without it now! These types of tools are inexpensive and once you get them, you will be surprised how many uses you can find for them!

[@ianfurqueron5850]

I think that front hub is newer than 40 years old... I have some early 90s Record hubs and those don't have cartridge bearings. I've serviced them a few times over the years. I bought the wheels new in 1996. I've been doing bearing maintenance like this since the early 80s on my BMX bike. My completely non-mechanically inclined parents thought I was nuts when I'd take my bike apart and put it back together again at 12 years old. Kinda crazy I've been building up my own bikes for over 40 years...

[@ericpmoss]

IMO, those cones should definitely be replaced, but if you happen to have some very precise ceramic balls of the right size, assemble the hub as usual but with the ceramic balls. Ride it for a day and see if the ceramics have polished a clean path on the cones. I did that for an old BB and it did a good enough job that I could ride while waiting for a new set of cones and good steel balls. I do NOT keep using the ceramic balls -- only as a means of a get-by repair.

[@brianrichards350]

My old school trick was to swap English for metric or vice-versa. Get the closest not exact match for total bearing contact, and they will run in a slightly different non worn line. But only if I could not get cones in time...like the night before a race😮

[@stephensaines7100]

Instead of ceramic, use oversized quality steel balls, and leave them in there to establish a new race. There's quite a number of bearing specialist shops in the UK to order small quantities of balls from.

[@neilmcgurk2227]

Brilliant video! Looking forward to the wheel lacing. Wondering why you didn't replace those rear cones? Seems they are readily available and not too expensive. Also, a small artist's paintbrush would have made a much better tool for applying that grease. Just saying!

[@markusseppala6547]

They're not really going to ride this bike more than it takes to make the video, maybe that's why

[@Happy_Biker]

Love this

[@glennpettersson9002]

That's 20 watts saved right there, 19 on the bearing drag and 1 on aerodynamics. KOM on the way. 🚴

[@marlowek1936]

My main bike is a beat up old trek 800 and the wheel hubs were my first project on cleaning it up and maintaining it.

[@ahnilatedahnilated7703]

Alex, that one hub needs to be replaced. All those pits on it will never allow the bearings to roll smooth.

[@grumpynerd]

This is the bicycling equivalent of replacing the plumbing in a sink -- just enough of a job so you feel like you've done something, but not an open-ended commitment potentially full of unpleasant and unexpected complications. Mirror polish isn't period correct though. The classy stuff back in the day had a satin polish. Just take fine grade scotch brite (blue) and lightly buff to a satin finish. I do this sometimes with cheap dive watches that are mirror polished; a real Rolex Submariner uses a combination of mirror polishes and satin polishes depending on the surface.

[@RichardMigneron]

Yup, used to do this to my hubs, about 40-ish years ago. I'd suggest building a front RADIAL wheel, which would give it a retro-new look, would be lighter (shorter length of spokes) and more areo (no egg beater effect of the spokes crossing each other). I used to have a 28 spokes radial front wheel. I assume these hubs are 36 spokes (or maybe 32s), so the front hub is very well suited for a radial wheel.

[@stephensaines7100]

I beg to differ. Two or three cross is still the stiffest, strongest and most dependable wheel build. Ever wonder why they didn't build them radially in the past?

[@RichardMigneron]

@@stephensaines7100 Sure, it's strongest, but it's not as beautiful, light and aero. And I doubt they'll do a huge amount of mileage on those, since they have so many bikes to ride anyway.

[@SkyhawkSteve]

For hubs designed for freewheels, it's not a bad idea to check for a bent axle. Once the OLD went beyond 120mm, the odds of bending went up. The introduction of freehubs eliminated this weakness, so it's no longer an issue with parts designed in the last 30 years or so.

[@johnflynn4923]

Why not do a vintage lightweight build Alex like you did the Trek hill climb (but without stripping off all the paint next time, doh). How light could you get a 40 yr old steel frame down to using the light stuff of the day? Come to think of it you could even make a 3 part mini series on the same!

[@cruachan1191]

Still see hubs like these on some cheaper bikes, my Voodoo gravel bike had them on the stock wheels (since replaced with a set of Mavic All Roads so I can go tubeless) and had to refurb the rear after it worked loose over time and some water got it. Ballbearings are easy to find online, I found tweezers to be the easiest way to put the bearings in to the grease during reassembly but it's definitely easier to put some grease in to the cup first to hold them in place.

[@lexington476]

This is bringing up neutral memories of doing the front wheel bearings on my first car, 1985 Dodge Ram 😐.

[@jonathanzappala]

If hardly call it user friendly. It took me a lot of time to be able to do this, and it needs done yearly. I’ll take cartridges any day because they stay cleaner. And the rear pitting? You buy new cones. Good luck if it’s an unbranded hub. This is why it’s good they are mostly retired technology. You have to have a built wheel, and tightened with the quick releases to know if you achieved the right bearing pre load, the skill part of the job. I’m sure you know that but it’s left out of the video.

[@dalerasche8769]

You really need to replace those cones. If you ride on them being that rough you will eventually damage the cups and the cups might not be replaceable,

[@paulgordon7526]

Hi Alex, Excellent Video but would have like to see you take these out of the wheel removing the spokes etc....

[@TESTA-CC]

1.Bench Polishing Machine. 2.BananaWax Bike Bearing Moly Grease Wax. 3.Maximum Spin, For The Win 🤙🤙

[@gcntech]

spin for the win indeed!

[@stoatystoat174]

Have you guys seen the way of getting a tyre over a wheel using a piece of rope folded round the wheel? You fold the rope symmetrical round the wheel where the tyre is going to go so you have two ends of the rope on the same side. Pit those two ends through the tyre on top of the wheel and pull the ends away from each other round the wheel so the tyre is pushed into place. There's a few YT shorts showing it. Is this a good solution? Looks great

[@mikedellar5653]

Use a wide jawed adjustable with a cone spanner to undo the locknut - far easier.

[@StevenNassibian]

Love this series Alex. Can you please wear some gloves when you use the degreaser next time. Also, please tell us you have bought new ball bearings and cones in the next video. Watching you reuse worn out parts was triggering. 😱

[@stephenwilliams926]

All you need now is a Rim 😮

[@wick67]

Hey Alton, good video! A suggestion though, it is worth a trip to the LBS to pick up new bearings & replacement cones. Then those hubs will absolutely feel good as new.

[@gcntech]

Alton! the names keep getting funnier!

[@matt_acton-varian]

​@@gcntechI had almost assumed the joke had died until this comment 😂😂

[@ebikescrapper3925]

Wear gloves, cleaning stuff is not good for your skin. Put grease in a syringe, easier than using a screwdriver.

[@youarevictoria4981]

The spacing might be 127.5 on that rear, you will want to check. Also, the old FW axles were prone to bending.

[@alanfreeman7932]

Alex you seamed to make a bit of work for yourself, a syringe of grease would be easier than a flat head screwdriver, leaving the end caps off filling the bearing track with grease then putting the ball bearings in then another layer of grease then popping on the end caps . Also a 1 or 3 inch polishing pad would have been easier. Apart from that great video

[@SMidberg]

A wooden stick in stead of a chisel to avoid scratches on the bearingrace and balls.

[@chrisfilby9678]

Don't put your beari gs in a magnetic dish as it magnetises your ball bearings which then attract any metal particles that may become present in the hub.

[@TESTA-CC]

Vintage for the win 40 years old, still going strong 💪💪

[@shannontrainer5857]

Who uses freewheels instead of freehubs these days?

[@glbernini0]

Nice refurb project! Don't waste time trying to smooth out the cups. Unless you have perfect tools & technique all you will do is remove metal & make the tolerances even worse.

[@kaltonian]

i would of changed the inner workings of the rear hub, just in case there were any imperfections, being as the rear takes heavy loads. other than that they have come up well,

[@thecatsonholiday5932]

Terry is such gd boy

[@TheRokko66]

When the internal bearing race is damaged or the hub is making buzzing sounds when the wheel is turning, then its over

[@henkdevrjes9640]

What kind of polishing pad did you use? A foam pad?

[@svenlima]

Is it possible to do this with the bearings in pedals? Mine don't turn freely/nicely when I give them a push with a finger.

[@SkyhawkSteve]

The better pedals are usually designed to be taken apart and serviced. I've got Campagnolo pedals from the 70's that I service routinely, and even modern Shimano SPD pedals can be disassembled and serviced (at least my M520 and A520 can).

[@svenlima]

@@SkyhawkSteve Thanks. 👍 I'll have a closer look at my SPD pedals.

[@SkyhawkSteve]

@@svenlima The SPD's are novel. There is a little bearing assembly at the far end of the axle that you could disassemble , clean and lube.. but you don't really need to. Apparently the best/easiest way to do it is to squirt some grease down into the pedal body and reinsert the axle assembly. This will force the new grease up through the bearings and the old grease will be purged out of the body. It seems to work fine.

[@svenlima]

@@SkyhawkSteve Hi. Thank you. I've found this video tutorial: "Shimano SPD Pedale warten - Do-it-Yourself-Anleitung"

[@SkyhawkSteve]

@@svenlima That's a good video! There is a small risk that if you try to adjust the bearings on a drive-side pedal, it may have left hand threads for the cone and locknut. I found that on a A520 pedal and stripped the threads. I was not expecting to find left hand threads there!

[@win2kpioneer]

What metal polish did you use? I can kind of make out the name of it on 8:54 but the tube is bent and I can’t find anything on google that remotely looks like it or has a similar name of the partial name I can see.

[@raginganarchist]

autosol metal polish. Quite common in UK auto parts stores

[@gcntech]

@raginganarchist spot on!

[@mickgtir]

More like regreased, but anyway cool to see them all polished up.

[@Bikey_McBeardface]

Alex: "Modern hubs use a replaceable cartridge bearing, whereas older hubs like this typically use a more user-friendly cup and cone system" All Camping QR wheel owners: "Ok, good luck with that" 🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@HYP3RK1NECT]

Añade una prensa para desarmar la maza para la próxima vez.

[@anterrickson2585]

Does the fact that I knew all of this, have done it more times than I can count and I’m 45 years old mean I’m “retro” too? 😂

[@gcntech]

Everything is relative! 😉

[@gcntech]

well, this is awkward!

[@johnbay1234]

I’ve had to do this about a dozen times. The rear cone would drive me crazy i would replace it if possible.

[@MarlonBonelli]

A grease gun or syringe would have come in useful in this video!!!

[@Joshuavoice29]

"Retro" is when something is designed to look artificially old. Those hubs are vintage, not retro.

[@mafty_x]

Idk why people are liking this comment You can just look up the definition of retro the commenter is just wrong

[@someirishfella1704]

Why does it matter? Imagine a movie character who just got hung up on trivial stuff the whole movie, it'd suck right??

[@12am_Burial]

❤

[@pocoapoco2]

I'm guessing that's a Specialized front hub.

[@BigTsPerspective]

If you don’t cupNcone you can’t ride with me ! 😎

[@gcntech]

rules are rules!

[@tomahoks]

Like wtf, where to screw brake rotors!?

[@HardCOR_107]

Alex and anyone else doing this sort of maintenance, please, wear a respirator when working with solvents cuz cancer sucks!

[@bengray5013]

Nitrile gloves would be more useful than a respirator for this job

[@pinoyeh]

I have a rear wheel that spins rough. The cones have pitting, thus, it has to be replaced. However, I cannot find any other matching cone, so I replaced the all ball bearings and repacked it with new moly lube automotive grease. It still spins rough so I decided to use it as the rear wheel for my smart trainer....

[@StebrasNotHorses]

Nick, please wear some gloves and glasses when spewing brake cleaner about. Is Blake the GCN health and safety officer?

[@SkyhawkSteve]

Brake cleaner seems a bit overkill. I just use WD-40 as a solvent for cleaning bearings.

[@mikedellar5653]

A coat of clear lacquer will mean you don’t have to polish these every 5 minutes.

[@billmacrae1924]

A freewheel rear hub ahould never have a QR skewer. The hollow axle is too weak and will break. Never re-use pitted cones.

[@merckxy54]

Can you not buy replacement cones any more?

[@gbart981]

You lost me with your magnetized dish. You had nice steel bearings that ride on a film of grease. Now you have balls with an affinity for the very thing you're trying to protect them from. Don't be lazy. Get yourself a nice, thick, clean rag to put them on to keep them from rolling away. I have hubs from the 70s and 80s that still run smooth as butter, and the bearings don't attract each other through magnetism and are not metal vacuum cleaners. People pay to have bearings "degaussed" , just don't magnetize them in the first place!

[@eikrats]

The front hub seal says it is Suntour, Japan, NGK? Was Campy using Japanese parts? This is not cup and cone. Is it a fake? Seems really weird. According to my internet ai search, Campy did not use sealed bearings until the 2010's. I have no idea if that is right, but your hub might not be from the 80's.

[@stuartmisfeldt3068]

Buy new cones and axle

[@jonathanip6757]

Those cones are beyond salvageable. They will eventually pit the balls and then the cups very quickly. Campagnolo cones for this era are not that hard to get as they mostly all use 1/4” balls. Also bearing balls are really cheap so no reason to reuse old ones. Ditto on the front bearings, much better to pull out the old ones and replace, they are very cheap to replace.

[@ebikescrapper3925]

Vintage imitative of a style or fashion from the recent past. Anything older than this is considered antique. However, an item can be both retro and vintage. Furthermore, vintage only refers to something that is tangible, but retro can refer to a concept such as an attitude or a hairstyle. It doesn't refer to a time period or allude to the age of an item. Retro the time that something of quality was produced.

[@JimtheRangerTimmy]

Wheels manufacturing make replacement cones for that rear hub, it's not a good idea to run hubs with damaged cones as ultimately it ruin the whole hub and then it won't last another 30 days let alone 30 years

[@craigfirth3841]

Cartridge bearing should not be preloaded. Just saying.

[@danielmonaghan5185]

No, don't put it together with worn out cons as they disintegrate it is possible to wear the hub races.😢

[@undrwings]

Dude, get a grease gun, use an old t-shirt instead of ruining a brand new microfiber cloth, and put some nitrile gloves on with brake cleaner!

[@undrwings]

Loved the video though, btw.

[@johnstrac]

Loving your work as always Colin but treat yourself to a syringe for applying grease.

[@chrisankcorn5713]

Ridiculous!!! Just knock out the sealed bearings and replace! Much better instructional video.

[@GCNalex]

Most old hubs (and some modern ones) don't have cartridge style bearings and why throw away and replace something than be serviced and kept working? Servicing parts and extending longevity in my mind is always best.

[@linuslindgren1641]

@@GCNalex The front hub sure looks like a sealed bearing hub to me. No races on the axle "cones". And outer ring visible from the outside of the hub...

[@chrisankcorn5713]

I know. When I opened the video I was really looking forward to seeing an in-depth tutorial on replacing the wheel bearings, knocking out the old cones and pressing in new ones. Alex’s video just showed us how to polish a turd!

[@firesurfer]

It drives me up the wall when I see people wear gloves for such a simple operation. Take the gloves off and get dirty. It's not going to kill you. You do better work when you can feel what you are doing.

[@tankareno]

I don't kmow. How are you going to get the spoke length right with those stretched spoke holes on the hub?