Return of a Classic | Adox CHS 100 II Review

[@studiosnch]

When I got the chance to visit ADOX’s factory in Bad Saarow just outside of Berlin in 2017 together with Juho from Camera Rescue and Kamerastore (back then called Cameraventures), one of things that I told Mirko (the owner of ADOX and Fotoimpex) was about CHS 100 II and how I used it to document my college graduation ceremony. He was happy to hear my comment, but when asked him when that film will return in production, he told me that issues related to the film gelatin supply chain was the main hindrance. Good thing that they were able to overcome this and CHS 100 II is now back in stores.

[@studiosnch]

One thing that I remember from my talks with Mirko is that most of their revenue comes from photographic paper and developing chemistry, hence one of their business models for Fotoimpex involves support for darkrooms, film labs, and photographers who wet-print. So Alex using ADOX CHS 100 II and ADOX FX-39 is indeed a great way of financial support.

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

@@studiosnch I would love to be able to visit the factory one day! Thanks for watching 🍻

[@JustJas-ei2hy]

I used Adox film extensively in the late 50's and I seem to remember buying a pack of 10 vials of developer, which I broke the top off and diluted 1-9. Grain wasn't a problem and with beautiful tonal gradient. I wonder how the new films compare? When I can get some, that is - everywhere seem to be out of stock!

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

Nice! I believe the developer you used was Neofin Blue? As for stock they are working hard to keep up with demand! Thanks for watching 🍻

[@JustJas-ei2hy]

@@AlexLuyckxPhoto My notes dated 10/06/61 record the developer as E10 Fine Grain. E10 came in 10ml ampoules 10 in a Styrofoam box. KB14 dilution 1:50 to 1:100; KB17 1:40 to 1:70; KB21 1:25 - 1:30. Development times KB14 1:50 9min @20C; KB17 1:50 10min @ 20C; KB21 1:25 12min @ 20C. Use once in any solution and discard. My fixer at the time was Amfix. My camera at the time was a Corfield Periflex Gold Star, which had a superb lens and was used a lot for macro work, mainly electrical switch contact wear. For my first 20 exposure roll of KB17 the results state "Good soft images , No dev marks" (always a problem in hard water areas).

[@tedcrosby9361]

I think the reason for water stop bath, and alkaline fixer with 510 pyro is to prevent the stain from washing out. The stain helps to retain highlight detail.

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

Yes, always use water stop with pyro developers. I wasn’t clear on that one, in general you can use an acid stop, except for pyro. Thanks for watching 🍻

[@Kitsaplorax]

I loved Efke 100 and 50. Souping it in Rodinal in medium format 1:65 gave amazing tones. The extended green sensitivity makes it excellent for woodlands and portraiture. When Adox CHS II is back in stock, I'll certainly pick some up.

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

Awesome, Efke in 100 and 50, were amazing films! I’ve never tried a 1:65 dilution on Rodinal, will have to tuck that away for later. Thanks for watching 🍻

[@SinaFarhat]

Nice! I enjoy seeing your photos, its a good way of seeing outside of my usual things i like to shoot.

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

Thanks! And yes that’s what makes the Internet community amazing is seeing different things and places! Thanks for watching 🍻

[@alanhuntley55]

I haven't shot any CHS 100 II, yet, but I have a good stash of EFKE 25 (35mm) in the freezer that I bought from a dealer in Croatia shortly after the plant shutdown. Put this emulsion behind some Leica glass and develop it in Pyrocat-HD and you'll gain a new appreciation for what that tiny negative can deliver!

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

Efke 25 was magic! Glad you have a stash, thanks for watching 🍻

[@janpedersen8376]

EFKE 25 is a great film, also have a little stash in the freezer along with my favorite Agfa APX25 on 120 format

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

@@janpedersen8376 love APX25 have one roll left in 35mm!

[@markthompson3977]

The original Adox films were my late Dad’s favourites in the 1960’s and he always developed in Beutler formula, as a single bath, which is easy to make at home. It gives good sharpness and tonal range.

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

Nice! Yeah I always look at old photos now and wonder if they were taken on Adox films! Thanks for watching 🍻

[@lensman5762]

Can't keep up with Adox. The CMS20II has gone, but the CHSII has returned. Marvelous.

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

As much as people touted CMS20II I never got along with the film! But yeah it’s always shifting, thanks for watching 🍻

[@lensman5762]

@@AlexLuyckxPhoto I am not a fan either, but it all brings into question if Adox really manufacture any of their films or just buy up frozen stuff and rebrands them until they run out. The list of their discountinued films is very long. Myself, I have come to rely on Ilford, Kodak or even Rollei.

[@c.augustin]

I'm using ADOX CHS 100 II as 4x5 (rated ISO 50 with -1 pull development in D-76), and I find it to be just great! Maybe I should give it a try in 120 format, and go with less over-exposure and normal development (I started to use pull development to control contrast with my pinhole shots and the contrast increase of the reciprocity error). Addendum: No problems with curling and flatness for the 4x5 sheets.

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

CHS100II in 4x5 is magic! And yeah go with an Asa-80 rating and no pull in development! Thanks for watching 🍻

[@c.augustin]

@@AlexLuyckxPhoto Have to test how it fares with pinhole (I'm not sure if I got straight to -1 pull, because I started 4x5 only with pinhole photography, and only now getting into "real" lenses for my 4x5). My problem with many of the developers you've mentioned is their lack of suitability for rotary development (the only way I do get even results with 4x5; tried SP 445, SP 8x10 and Jobo 2520 rotation, and only the last option gives me consistent results without any development streaks or the like).

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

@@c.augustin 510-Pyro is great for rotary processing! In fact, all the 120 rolls I showed here were all done in a Rotary processor, the B's Processor, either on pulse or in constant (slow) mode.

[@joseerazevedo]

One more great review, thanks! Unfortunately this film is still a mystery here in Brazil. Hope to play with it someday. My best!

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

@@joseerazevedo Thanks! Yeah I can see it having trouble getting it in South America! Hope you can get some! Thanks for watching 🍻

[@janjasiewicz9851]

I've been shooting this film (135) for about a year - but I have to say it is not my favorite film. The negatives always come out thin - no matter what developer I use - be it HC110, FX39, Rodinal, ID11, D76, Ilfotec HC, Pyro 510. The film is properly exposed so that is not the problem. The other issue I have with this film is the polyester base as it curls pretty badly even though ADOX says it has an anti curling layer. The same issue I find with Rollei 80s. I am not a fan of polyester bases and it also attracts dust. I definitely preferred their Silvermax film when they were still producing it. I'll stick with FP4+, Delta 100 and Rollei RPX 100 which alway give fantastic results.

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

Yes the curl is stronger in the 35mm over the 120 but still present. I also had thin negatives which is why I started the slight over exposure shooting at 80 then developed normally, got back more density. But the films you’re shooting are bulletproof! Thanks for watching 🍻

[@janjasiewicz9851]

@@AlexLuyckxPhoto keep up the good work!

[@mvill9898]

Where can we get the adox chemistry in Toronto? I have an adox film stock (ISO 25, I think) on my fridge for two or three years now and never shoot it because of the chemistry which at this time has eluded me.

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

Argentix.ca is out of Quebec and they’re the best but stocks are low. You may have to bite the bullet and order from the States or Germany. Thanks for watching 🍻

[@raybeaumont7670]

Thanks for this. I'll try to find a supplier in the UK and test it in 510Pyro. Or maybe a simple 2 Bath might pair with this emulsion? We'll see. All the best from South Wales - UK.

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

Totally worth it! I haven’t tried it in any two-bath options. Maybe Diafine next time I have a roll or two! Thanks for watching 🍻

[@mahasidha9]

How does it compare to Rollei Retro 80S?

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

Two totally different films! You just have to look at the spectral sensitivity charts. CHS you see a drop at 650nm so no extended red sensitivity whereas Retro 80s goes to just short of 800nm. 80s is far more contrasty and has less exposure latitude. Sorry it’s a bit technical but I hope it helps thanks for watching 🍻

[@georgeosier5459]

my go-to developer is Atomal 49 :)

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

@@georgeosier5459 it’s an excellent choice! Thanks for watching 🍻

[@georgeosier5459]

@@AlexLuyckxPhoto ...... also going to make some D-25 and give it a try on some films I have here

[@giuseppeg.8461]

IME - a terrible film, at least in 35mm. Incredibly (and I mean incredibly) grainy both in D76 1+1 and in HC110 1+47. Also a 50 EI film in my workflow. I can get the same grain, and tonality with Kentmere 400, which is a 320 EI film in my chain. Kentmere 100, Foma 100 are much finer grain 100 ISO films than the Adox. I love Adox' commitment to film photography, but unless the 120 CHS II is really different from the 35mm, I have to say buyer beware. I personally won't be buying any.

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

That’s fair! And one of the best parts about film and photography is that personal preference is everything! And I totally agree with too much grain in 35mm with D-76 and HC-110/Ilfotec HC. And Kentmere and Foma 100 are both amazing films! Thanks for watching and sharing 🍻

[@crispin8888]

I thought Adox required a particular development method ?

[@AlexLuyckxPhoto]

@@crispin8888 CMS20II does the Adotec IV developer snd Silvermax worked best in the Silvermax developer.

[@crispin8888]

@@AlexLuyckxPhoto OK, thank you very much 😊

[@giuseppeg.8461]

@@crispin8888 not for CHS 100 II. Any developer can be used and in fact the tech sheet for the film has times for both HC110 and D76.