REVELLS

[@brettpeacock9116]

"Ye Olde Pub" as not an "E" model Fortress - it was an "F" model. The E model had the very blunt forward nose glassware, like the early B-17C/D, was slower and had less powerful versions of the radial engine. A Famous E model would be "Chief Seattle from the Pacific North West", which fought in the South West Pacific (New Guinea/Solomon Islands) The F replaced the E in early 1943, and the E was relegated to second line duties and Training Squadrons. Another F model change was the removal of .30 cal guns from several places in the E (notably the radio room and nose), and replacing them with .50 cals. with stronger mounts. the "Memphis Belle" was an F model, as was "Miss Ouachita". The G model again uprated the engine [power and came with the chin turret as standard -(the LAST "F" model production series also featured a chin turret but retained the reinforced nose & glazing of previous F models. (Some crews of the G replaced the G glazing with the F glazing as they felt it was better to use, and more aerodynamic.)

[@redbaronmodeling]

Good info I was mistaken in saying the Pub was an E model . also was unaware that very late F models had a chin turret.

[@petersellgren9452]

Ye Olde Pub is a B-17G converted back to a F model. Before Ye Olde Pub was repainted a couple of years ago, she was in the marking of Memphis Belle for the movie made in the ‘90s. There is two real F models left. One is the real Memphis Belle at the USAF Museum in Dayton, OH. The other is Seattle Bee, at the museum there.

[@russellgosselin3325]

Nice work on the interior. Clean and detailed paint work. Got my 1:48 B-17 in the works. Model on!

[@stevenbongiorno9277]

You did a really good job! I’ve done a couple of 17s myself. I’ve always stayed with the Olive drab, because I did a 29 in metalizer aluminum, buffed it down to almost chrome, and why I applied the sealer, it turned out a dull silver. Great job on the interior!

[@cdfe3388]

MM paints offer some great colors and can yield great results, but I found out the hard way that they have a learning curve. They work best with MM’s proprietary thinner, no surprise there. They are also water-soluble until the paint is absolutely dry and cured. On the flip side, they work great on a brush for fine detail work straight out of the bottle and clean up very easily.

[@redbaronmodeling]

That seems to be the case from whatI have learned with further experimenting with their paint. I had not been told yet about the polyurethane additive that you add to it which if not mixed just right has no effect but if mixed right the paint holds up.

[@ArmourEmpire]

Really nice work mate.

[@calvingifford9442]

Great job! I suspect the Mission Models paints needed more time to cure. Very cool school project!

[@fernandoismaelgalanpadilla2223]

Hi, greetings from Mexico City, u can use latex gloves in order to avoid finger marks into your models, cheers!..

[@redbaronmodeling]

Yes, also helps keep grease and oil off of the surface.

[@wrathofatlantis2316]

Revell aluminium spraycan then Tamiya's Alclad like TS-83 spray can on top: Expensive, but the Revell is the perfect undercoat, totally immune to the Tamiya lacquer, and fantastic results every single time without fail... Particularly efficient on large subjects. The idea of a black undercoat is a terrible one anyway, because Tamiya black gloss spray cans attack the plastic, and cause hazy "clouds" on the plastic that persist through innumerable silver layers... Alclad gloss black is even worse, cracking in the long term... Black is always a bad idea because it is high contrast to poor covering silver, and the shading effect of black does not work with raised lines. Try the Revell cans for undercoat and pay up to the triple price TS-83; It is expensive, but with Revell aluminium as an undercoat, one TS-83 can will do two 1/48 B-17s easy.

[@michaelbenjmitchell1]

Why would they change the name of that B-17G to Ye Ole Pub when the Pub was a F model?

[@redbaronmodeling]

They made the conversion to promote the book "A Higher Call".

[@CallMeAK]

wow what school do you go to, dam.. no way your school just gave models out to students like that wow.

[@redbaronmodeling]

Yeah they gave us models but no glue. The school I went to had an aviation program.

[@stevenwillard8436]

Bravo. Now can we stuff it with firecrackers?

[@redbaronmodeling]

Sure if it hasnt been thrown from a third floor window! Or smacked off of the ceiling or..... Students at my school were hard on nice things.

[@piratedjradio]

for an aircraft that big the bomb rack was tiny

[@michaelbenjmitchell1]

It was tiny in real life too barely wide enough for crew members to cross over from one end to the other.

[@GAguns]

99percent alcohol or acetone washes right off

[@janehill9764]

you mean the monogram b-17...

[@redbaronmodeling]

It says Revell on the box. I am aware it was once a monogram kit but has since been reboxed as a Revell kit. The reason I called it a "Revell" is lets say someone new to the hobby some how stumbles upon this video not knowing that. It would be easier for them to find it using Revell.

[@janehill9764]

@@redbaronmodeling ok, i get it. but i'm old school and a brand follower. i hate the fact that revell took over monograsm and just re-branded those kits. there was a time earlier in the takeover, that revell called the affected kits revell-monogram kits. i wish they would have kept the double name logo on the monogram kits. then i wouldn't be chirping at them or you.

[@janehill9764]

it's not a revell kit. it's monogram. who gives a shit that revell took monogram over...it will always be monogram to me. i built four monogranm b-17s back in the day...i also built the revell b-17F in 48 scale. very basic but you could use monogram parts to jazz it up..monogram all the way..revell sucks..

[@brettpeacock9116]

The Revell F kit is 1/48 is overscale (about 1/46.5) as Revell pantographed the Monogram kit (badly- they forgot to scale it slightly) , simplified it just enough to escape being sued (for breach of copyright - heck their logo is even in the same places as the monogram logo had been.) and released it. If you want a decent F cut off the kits nose about at the windscreen and sand the joins (at the cut AND where the halves meet, but leave the front of the nose alone as you don't want to mismatch the glass nose!) until the Revell fuselage matches the Monogram fuselage in cross section. Use the Revell nose interior parts (make them fit!) and the rest of the Monogram parts in the rear. And you will have a Passable F model. There are some articles on "How-To" available online AFAIR. And before you sound off about Revell, this was an entirely new management at the time, and one of the bosses had a history of pulling such stunts, and knew little of the Model industry - he was an accountant. The "Dubious" history of that kit is one reason why Current Revell have not re-released it within the last 15 years. But then again, they haven't (yet) announced a replacement, either. And now HK have beaten them to it....

[@janehill9764]

@@brettpeacock9116 hey, thanks for this new information. i will definitely use your tips to create a better F model. i've got after market F decal sheets...i must thank you for the info. thanks again for explaining the revell 'gaffe' by one of its bosses. but i'm still not won over yet....