Reverse Flatlock Ladders

[@jacquelinejee5167]

I’m from the uk and just about to receive my baby lock Gloria machine so excited. I’ve been watching your videos and learnt so much from you already. I just want to say thank you I’m so glad I found you 🤗

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips, Jacqueline !

[@bettychamplin8751]

Thanks. Great tutorial

[@bcampo11]

Love this Gail! Thank you. If you use it on a garment would you wash the finished garment as usual? I’m worried about the ribbons either shrinking or the color running. Thanks!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Great question! Most ribbons that are Polyester won't run, but it's a good idea to test (especially red!) before weaving them into a project that will be laundered. Any trims or ribbons that are cotton, silk, wool or rayon should also be pre-shrunk before using. I trimmed a tunic with navy cotton lace. Luckily I pre-shrunk it first because it shrank about 3". If you purchase trim that's cut from a reel, check the fiber content in the store. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@carolrushing-carr4750]

Hi Gail, This was very interesting and I look forward to trying this! What were you using to thread the ribbon? Thanks so much! (ps. I was on your ASG kentucky talk the other night!!)

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Carol Rushing-Carr hi Carol, I used a double-eye needle to weave the ribbons through the ladders. You could also use a bodkin or upholstery needle. Anything with a large enough eye that the ribbon will fit through will work. I prefer something with a blunt point to prevent snagging the ladders thread. This technique is not difficult and adds so much visual interest on projects-Hope you try it.Thanks for joining the fun on Zoom and for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@chiarascerrato9957]

Very nice. I have the Triumph , are the settings the same? Thank you in advance. Never mind I just saw your reply to someone else. Thank you

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Thanks for watching, Chiara!

[@allbrands1976]

Hi Gail! Can we share your video with our Bernina customers? This is a great tutorial.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

AllBrands Corporate I’d love for you to share the Tip Clip with your customers! Thanks for asking and let them know if they have questions, I’ll be happy to help.

[@allbrands1976]

@@GailPatriceDesign Thank you!!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

AllBrands Corporate you’re welcome. Watch for future ones too!

[@robingranerg8258]

Bernina?? What happened to Babylock Triumph?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

ROBIN granerg Still have it, love it and use it. You’ll see it again!

[@morarivera9580]

I’m a relatively inexperienced serger. Can I do this in my Triumph? Do you have this technique in a YT for the triumph? Or, what would the settings be on the Triumph. Thank you for your dedication and generosity,

[@GailPatriceDesign]

MORA Rivera hi Mora, yes, your Triumph does a beautiful reverse flatlock stitch. Check your Quick Threading Guide for the ladder stitch. It will give you the threading routes (slightly unconventional) and go for it. Thanks for watching!

[@nancyhurt7145]

Will have to try this! Thanks for sharing.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Nancy Hurt It’s a beautiful technique and thanks for watching, Nancy!

[@woodcat7952]

Sorry, Gail. Insofar as threading is concerned, I've just had another look at the threading guide. I see what you mean by unconventional threading and of course it's the subsidiary looper, (not the upper looper selector) - which is engaged.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Great job! I love it when sewists can analyze a problem and figure it out because it tells me that they’re gaining new understanding of their machines-yay! Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@bettychamplin8751]

Are these settings for this stitch in your book?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Betty, The settings aren't in my book because they will vary from one machine model to another. But you can always ask me.

[@woodcat7952]

Sorry if this is a silly question but I can't find a serger topstitch needle per se. Are you using a regular sewing machine topstitch needle or just a thicker serger needle? I've found a 90/14 serger needle from Organ. Is that the one? Thanks and just to let you know I'm really enjoying your youtube content. I want to use my Babylock Evolution serger rather more creatively than I do now. The 2-Thread Ladder Stitch threading guide doesn,t engage the Upper Looper Selector - does that produce the same stitch?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

You will use a regular topstitch needle. There isn’t a serger specific one. Double check on using the subsidiary looper because you can’t do a 2-thread stitch without closing the eye of the upper looper. Let me know if you need help and glad you’re enjoying the Tip Clips. There are so many creative ways to use your serger!

[@jeanarcher3572]

You didn’t show weaving the orange ribbon.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Jean, It's the exact same process, but where you wove over the ladders, the second ribbon will go under to create that basket weave effect. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@mhytharay1016]

Hello,may i know what kind of sewing machine your using? Thanks

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hello Mhy, I am using a serger, also called an overlocker. It is very different from a sewing machine, but it is also used to construct garments as well as lots of other types of projects-home decor, quilting, tote bags, etc. Please let me know if you would like more information and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@mhytharay1016]

@@GailPatriceDesign i enjoy watching your videos ive learned a lot.. i have a sewing machine but i could not get the latest one with overock its a bit expensive ...but by the way im trying to use the simple serger..thanks

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@mhytharay1016 Even a simple 4-thread serger has lots of stitches. So you can try many of the techniques and find what works best on your machine!

[@mhytharay1016]

@@GailPatriceDesign im using now BROTHER JV1400. and i bought multifunctional kit 52 so that i can use it in different kind of stiches and your tips helps a lot to me. Thank you so much...

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@mhytharay1016 You're welcome!

[@marciajenn1352]

What if your serger does not have individual tension adjustments? My Triumph self adjusts.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Marcia, Your Triumph will do a lovely 2- or 3-thread Reverse flatlock stitch. Check your Quick threading Guide for the correct threading routes. Insert a topstitch needle for thicker decorative thread, check the Stitch Selector and test your stitch length. Then have fun and stitch! Let me know if you need any help and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@bettychamplin8751]

Did you use the opposite three threads when weaving the second ribbon?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Betty, Yes, just like basket weaving. If I went under 3 ladders with the first ribbon, I'd weave over those 3 ladders with the second ribbon.

[@jettehansen8105]

Wow this looks great. Is it the new Bernina you are sewing at. What number is it ?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Jette Hansen hi Jette, yes I used the brand new Bernina L850:overlocker. It has a 9mm wide stitch which is fantastic and provides lots of room to weave ribbons, etc. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@1Heimat]

Hi Gail, I always watch all your videos and just got my Bernina l460. I wanted to try out your Flatlock ladder stitches right away, but I can't get the fabric to lay flat. Is there a certain kind of fabric that is best for this technique? I tried a shiny satin fabric and some cotton because that is what i have laying around (just for practice) and I wanted to use a pretty thread in the looper. I had to pull very hard on the fabric to get it apart and even then it would not lay all the way flat (and the fabric did not look good anymore, especially the satin). FYI I tried the 3 tread flatlock with the left needle (tension at 1.5), cutting width at 7, stitch length and width at the recommended setting and lower looper tension at 7.5. I had a 30 wt decorative thread in the upper looper (just in case I liked that side better) with the tension at 4. What did I do wrong? Or can I not use the fabric I have?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Gabi, I like to use a 2-thread Flatlock with a topstitch needle in the left overlock position. Thread the lower looper with serger cone thread and place decorative thread (12-wt) in the needle. Hook in the upper looper converter. Needle tension = 1 and lower looper tension = 9. This is completely different from the manual’s settings. Stitch length is variable. Mine is usually around 2.5 and cutting width is 9. The fabric might roll under the stitch so when I finish, I take a skinny long knitting needle and uncurl it. Tryout these settings and let me know your results. If you think it could still be better, we’ll brainstorm together. Thanks!

[@1Heimat]

@@GailPatriceDesign You r so kind to answer all the comments right away. I'll try ur settings tomorrow (it's already afternoon here)and let u know if it works. Thank u so much again for everything.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@1Heimat I forgot to mention that your fabric selection should be fine. The settings in owner’s manuals don’t take into account different weight threads. That’s why you have to experiment with different ones when using decorative threads. Let me know how you do!♥️

[@1Heimat]

@@GailPatriceDesign Hi Gail, I tried your settings, but I must be doing something wrong. The lower looper thread keeps breaking. I re-threaded (and yes the I put the converter on) a few times but it makes a lot of noise and then the tread breaks. I also think I need to use some kind of stabilizer with the satin fabric. On the short end that I got before the thread broke I was able to pull the fabric flat (at least something, right) but the fabric still pulls apart (like with tights). Hope this makes sense to you.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@1Heimat Hi Gabi, Hmmmm, I’m sure your serger cone thread is good quality but maybe the lower looper tension needs to be slightly lower. Put the mtc dial on +2 to widen the ladders. Also position your fabric edge just left of the knife so that the knife skims off the whiskers. I don’t think it’s the satin because I’ve used this stitch on a variety of fabrics without any problems. The machine will definitely be noisier with the big difference in tension settings. It always sounds “clackier” but nothing is wrong and it won’t damage the serger. Let me know if this helps and if not, we’ll figure out something else. Thanks for getting back to me.

[@dcwatashi]

You forgot to show us how you were weaving the second ribbon but I’m sure most of us can figure it out. Just seemed a little incomplete that’s all

[@GailPatriceDesign]

dcwatashi You weave the second ribbon the exact same way, just over and under the ladders opposite ladders. So if you wove the first ribbon over 3 ladders, the second ribbon would be woven under those same 3ladders and so on. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@cassieward1536]

Where’s your baby lock Serger?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Cassie Ward Still have it, love it and use it. You’ll see it again! Thanks for watching.