Review of APD5830A 800W 58V DC Buck Step Down Converter - WattHour

[@rokask]

Very nice and detailed. Thumbs up! Btw, about setting the current, next to the 3 shunts there are 2 probe points circled with a chinese text box. As I read on some instruction pages, measuring voltage on those probe points is indicative of max amp setting. 2mV=1A, 4mV=2A and so on.

[@dancri1977]

Do you know how you can set the current dynamically using those pins?

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@victorreppeto7050]

Very complete review. Thank you!

[@WattHour]

You are very welcome

[@samohraje2433]

I just ordered two of these because i spent almost 100 dollars for nothing. Few weeks ago i got for myself one 310W monocrystaline solar panel with two " 100A " PWM controllers but none of them was working, they can't charge my lead acid battery. So i ordered two, DC DC converters thinking they will do the job just fine but i ordered step up converters instead of step down buck ones, another 30€ threw away, the 100A ones cost me around 60 together + keep in mind shipping etc. It is really above 100 dollars. I've had back then some 5A DCDC Buck's but dunno where they are so i ordered this 800W, two of them for 77€ and HOPEFULLY it will fill my expectations just right. When i was watching your video and saw that efficiency, i just get mind blown by this.. even with maximum power it can deliver it is 95% that is super good. Better to order this, than some MPPT expensive solar charge controllers and you can also set the current and voltage to the perfection. Very NICE 👍

[@WattHour]

Thank you for sharing your experience. Yes indeed this is very efficient. I have tones of videos and 3 or 4 boost converter tested at 1.5kW . Stay safe.

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@Nāmarūpa1]

For those wanting to control this device from microcontroller:- For Constant Voltage (lower JST ) you need to remove R38 ("CV adj" pot is now disabled ) - Its linear, Vout = 25 x Vsignal e.g. 2V in gives you 50V out open circuit. For Constant Current (upper JST) you need to remove R46 - Its also linear, but more complicated... - First, understand that CRef gives 2mV per 1Amp out - Second, work out Maximum Amps you want to output when at full 5VDC signal voltage (CC) to stay under the 800W. - Third, convert MaxAmps to CRef. CRef = 2mV x MaxAmps. e.g. 15Amps out for full 5V CC signal gives me max CRef of 30mV - Fourth, calculate gain resistance. Rgain = CRef x 75000 / 5. For my example, 0.03 x 75k / 5 gives 450 Ohm. - Finally, with device turned off, put your ohmmeter across CRef test point, and dial up Rgain on the "CC Adj" pot. You're welcome... start slow and ramp up

[@WattHour]

Thank you @Steven Taylor, this is not verified but when I got this module, I was thinking to find a way to control is via MCU. it seems you have spent lots of time on this module. I hope this is useful for someone who needs it.

[@imhvost]

I'm sorry, can you help me? There is only 1A at the output, it is not regulated in any way. I don't know what to do... I changed the current regulation resistor, but the current is still not regulated. Help please.

[@DIY-GARYY]

​@@imhvost попробую установить резистор на 100Кom, или замерь старый и поставь такой же по параметрам удачи.

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@Teknisiujungdunia]

Excellemt information. I have using that modul for driving forklift dc motor

[@johnhajdu4276]

5:51 I think this is not az IRF 3708, it is a Hooyi HY3708, which has 80V / 170A and 3.8mOhm at Vgs=10V. You can download the datasheet from internet.

[@WattHour]

Thank you for correcting the mistake. Please subscribe. I appreciate it and helps my channel grow. Thank yo

[@lezmac3104]

Thank you very much for giving effort making this video..it saved me a couple of bucks for what i intend to do with it..glad i come across your channel..I was actually looking for a buck converter with a 12-24v input and an output of 8v 30A or more to charge my supercapacitor and have no luck..anyway, you got my subs..thanks..

[@deezelfairy]

This is a buck converter, you need a boost converter my friend.

[@lezmac3104]

@@deezelfairy ?????..boost converter??

[@WattHour]

boost converter means input is 5V and output is 20V.

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@Speed1529]

This is the best option for solar panels without battery

[@arthur88888888888888]

What a fantastic video. Thanks.

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@christopherowens2635]

Do you know the specific name of the 2 pin plug for the Off On Switch?

[@johncoops6897]

The white headers look like JST-XH 2-pin. Same connector used for R/C Battery balance connectors. Very common and easy to buy.

[@anatoliyovdiy6466]

Hi, sorry for "dumb" question. if I plan to charge a battery with it, do I need a diode on the output to not burn the converter, if I turn off the input? Or the ones you showed under the radiator do just that protection?

[@WattHour]

I will have to check the convert as I don’t remember how it was and reply back. I hope I don’t forget it

[@johncoops6897]

It would be dumb to try and charge a battery with a device that has no current limit. Buy a battery charger if you want to charge batteries!

[@ZeroCarbo]

@@johncoops6897 your 4th word comment is your comment

[@johncoops6897]

@@ZeroCarbo - your complete lack of valid comments is your comment.

[@tangoalpha8381]

Parabéns pelo super vídeo 👏👏👏👏👏

[@E-GaN]

Now, can this be paired with the 600w boost converter module and 100k potentiometers to make a bench power supply? will the current setting problem you mentioned in your video still occur?

[@WattHour]

if you use external variable resistor for sure it will work. external or internal resistor will not affect the performance of the converter.

[@E-GaN]

@@WattHour Alright, thanks..

[@xinyuanli3774]

:D, would you able to check is the analog input regular for this device? The analog input 0~5V could of control the output current and voltages i think this would be a worthy experiment for industry use.

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@youssefskitiwi9159]

Can two pieces be connected to one power source, such as 53 volts, 37 amps, and 100 volts output?

[@WattHour]

it is like at home hou have heater connected to the wall (the batter) and then you have a fan also connected. yes you can your batter is power source. But this NOT steup up. if received 53V and the output is 50V or lower. NOT higher. this is Step down. meaning it reduced the voltage.

[@youssefskitiwi9159]

@WattHour Yes, my friend, I have an electric bike and I want to use one power source with an output of 53 volts and 37 amps, and I want to connect two pieces of voltage reducer, each modified to 44 volts to get 88 volts in series.

[@TheChrisco1969]

Is it normal for the shunt to get hot?

[@WattHour]

Yes up to 80 degrees should be okay

[@jasonbrown467]

your usa link to amazon points to nothing but light bulbs, can you get a better link, i cant seem to find this item, thanks.

[@WattHour]

Amazon shows ads at the tipping of page. If item is available for sale , scrolling down will show it

[@WattHour]

Hello, If you live in Canada or USA, I am giving away this DL24P 180W load and energy meter. Make sure to sign up for it kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4bFnYaciqqMY5I

[@christopherowens2635]

To increase the current, do you turn the knob clockwise or counterclockwise?

[@WattHour]

I have show. It.

[@Nāmarūpa1]

Counterclockwise

[@nikmanmar4601]

Hello, you have not checked the connectors for current and voltage control, what signal can be applied and in what range? According to the plans to make a control, to control the output current using a microcontroller, the goal is to make a MPPT controller for solar panels. And therefore, in order for the maximum power point to be at the input, it is necessary to regulate either the output current or the voltage.

[@WattHour]

No we don’t modify it to know that. We are using it and I tested input and output parameters

[@Nāmarūpa1]

CV: 1V->25v, 2v->50v (ie linear) CC: 1V->0.5A, 2V->1A (ie linear)

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..

[@HIPERcruiser]

Hola. Una ayuda para ti. Los circuitos con condensadores se deben de precargar siempre para no dañar los equipos por transitorio. Con una resistencia de 500 Ohm y 1w es más que suficiente. Muchas gracias por los test y análisis.

[@syscomua]

hello, reference voltage pin gives 1.25 volt ever, what this port mean? thanks

[@WattHour]

Hi, I am not sure if I mentioned it or not. but most regulator have a reference voltage which they regulate the output. You can see an example on page 27 at section 9.2.2 in this document www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm2596.pdf where they have reference voltage.

[@TheChrisco1969]

I'm testing one if these with a 21v solar panel The CC fluctuates constantly Is this because it's t it's lowest voltage input?

[@WattHour]

when you say CC (constant current), if you need 100W at output, you should have 110W power at input to keep the current constant. and yes the power for solar panel changes as light intensity fluctuates. To avoid that, either use a batter with the solar at the input so you will get get stable voltage. or set the output power (Voltage X Current = Power) to the lowest of solar panel (during the day) so you get stable power at output.

[@robertovalinhos27]

hi can i change the mosfets with more amperage and voltage

[@WattHour]

No you can’t . The voltage and current are party of the design

[@mst1410]

감사합니다

[@WattHour]

천만에요.

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@marktheunitedstatescitezen185]

What might there be to Step Down Dc 52.5v at 280Ah lithium battery bank to 48v at 120A ?

[@WattHour]

you don't need to mention the 280Ah because it is the capacity. it is like mentioning: I have 280 Liter fuel. it has no affect. it will run longer. that's it. you better look again at the video as I have shown practically the amount of power at the output. I don't remember what it was but if it was 800W and you want to get 48V, then 800W÷48V =16.6A is the maximum output. My friend it is all about power. Now if you get 800W at the output then the input must be 800W + 15%=920W. 15% is the waste as heat in the converter. Now do the math and get the amount of current (ampere) for the input at 52.5V. I hope you understood this. may be read this twice.

[@Mexicanracing]

Do recommend this for 24v drill battery for portable car stereo w 4 channel amp 800.4 ? Or what step down converter do you recommend

[@WattHour]

I am not sure if 800.4 is power or current. but I tested it with maximum power and yes you can use it if do not exceed the maximum power.

[@stefanmustermann8218]

Undervoltage Protection starts under 20V Inputvoltage. Is it possible to increase this Undervoltage Protection to 33V? I went to use it with a 36V Li akku and dont want the bms to break the circuit. The bms is just for saftey. Greetings

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@DIY-GARYY]

hi good review, subscribed to you. please tell me I bought this module I want to assemble a laboratory power supply - an adjustable power supply. There are 3 connectors on this board, one I understand is on/off, but the other two are not entirely clear to me what they are needed for, can I connect LED indicators to them to visually monitor current and voltage? In the video, you shorted the output terminals and the fuse blew, maybe if you do this at a lower voltage, then maybe you can regulate the current? For me, this is necessary since I have to set the current value every time when testing various gadgets or equipment. I power this converter with a 36V 10A power supply.

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@charlesrg]

looking forward for one that can charge up to 24S LIFEPO4 around 87Volts

[@WattHour]

it works great. very stable.

[@КонстантинНагорнович-д2ц]

Good job

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@josefpdx1]

Why can’t I use it as a charger if my max charging current of battery is more then module can deliver

[@WattHour]

in that case. yes you can use it. I mentioned it because excessive current can damage the battery.

[@AhmedRaza-he9tg]

Good videos 👍👍

[@christopherowens2635]

My current knob doesn’t seem to change the current at all. Broken?

[@WattHour]

Yes

[@christopherowens2635]

@@WattHour Can I fix the knob by replacing the pot meter? I must have overturned the current knob because the voltage is reading 0.00 now. Both knobs broken?

[@WattHour]

Yes you can. See how the pot is connected and wire it the same way. Keep in mind with regular pot it would be very hard to set the voltage .

[@christopherowens2635]

@@WattHour How about I replace it with the exact pot? Would it function the same?

[@thecyborg6718]

Turn it more it will start after couple of turns

[@mst1410]

Thanks you

[@WattHour]

Welcome

[@ThePahan007]

Thank you

[@WattHour]

You're welcome

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@pretrazime]

Greetings. I need help. I have a portable power station KS 2200PS of 2.2kw which has an Anderson 2 port for fast charging of max 50A. It is supposed to be charged with electricity via socket, but I need solar charging for the rural area off the grid. I tried to connect my Leapton energy panel of 550w but I failed to start the charging process. So I got a 6mm solar cable and connected the MC4 connectors from the panel to the Anderson 2 port on the station however it won't charge. By checking the specifications in more detail, I may have found a problem because it says that the input charging port allows only 25V +- 0.2V, and the solar panel gives a higher voltage... is there a possibility to use this device to regulate the voltage to the allowed power of the station? I am not really expert in electricity, so I would appreciate any help :) So, my Q is: Can this device help me and stabilize output to 25V? Thanks in advance.

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@gilmarrodrigues6840]

what load is it?

[@WattHour]

Hello, the electronic load is www.tequipment.net/ITech/IT8516C+/DC-Power-Supplies/

[@WattHour]

you didn't reply back?

[@suherrymannadhif7326]

May i use 24V battery to 19.5V 16A constant?

[@WattHour]

Please watch to get the answer. I made this video to answer such questions

[@suherrymannadhif7326]

@@WattHour I've been watching ur video until the end. But you're using 70V, 60V, 48V input, what if the input only 24V? How much efficiency this step down? There is any drop voltage?

[@johncoops6897]

He doesn't cover this properly. He doesn't seem to test the maximum outputs, just at certain fixed wattages 500W, 700W or whatever. It may be that it can output more current if the voltage differential is smaller. But this was not covered in the video.

[@suherrymannadhif7326]

@@johncoops6897 Yeah dude, i think so. Just ensure it works properly

[@WattHour]

@Suherryman Nadhif I just read your comment and you made my watch the video. You may have missed. at minuet 27 you will see input is 24V.

[@johnhajdu4276]

I think the IC is TL494 maybe TI494, can you check it for me please?

[@WattHour]

Hello, it is TI494 PWM chip from Texas Instrument www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tl494.pdf

[@talusranch990]

Best chip ever, btw

[@E-GaN]

Nice video. Its shocking that the module can't even supply 100w at 8.4v, where even a 300w 20A can supply 8.4v and 20A..

[@nikmanmar4601]

Thanks for the detailed review. I ordered the same converters for my power plant. I plan to get 26 volts from 54 volts. But apparently I cannot achieve 30 Amperes at the output.

[@WattHour]

you are very welcome. Yes my tests will explain these converters and I test them with all possible input and output value so people know what to expect of them if they want to purchase them. Please subscribe. I appreciate it and helps my channel grow. Thank you

[@johncoops6897]

With most Buck/Boost converters, the max ratings are for the input not the output. So here maximum current is 30A on the input, however the output circuits maybe cannot cope with 30A at 24V on output. The larger the difference, the lower the capacity. So, 70V--> to >24V may provide lower current than 30V-> to -> 24V This relates to how the converter works by switching the input voltage using PWM to generate the output. So the duty cycle for a 70V to 24V might be only 30%, whilst 30V down to 24V is closer to 80%. So you can probably pull more current if the voltage drop is lower. Make sense?

[@nikmanmar4601]

@@johncoops6897 I kind of understand what you are talking about, but these converters were bought for specific purposes, they stand in the solar system to power the inverter from the network through a 54 V 18 A power supply. And I have 2 such units in parallel, one is constantly in operation, the second in on or off depending on the load. At the output, the voltage is set to 26.1 V, the current is set to 32.5 Amperes, you can unscrew it up to 40 Amperes. Accordingly, the output power is 850 watts. The converter was tested at this power for 0.5 hour, the temperature of the components was determined by a thermal imager. Some components are heating up, but not critical. It was important for me to understand what I can get from these converters, and I am more than satisfied with the test result. And they have been in operation for half a year already, and no problems were found with them.

[@nikmanmar4601]

​@@johncoops6897 And I can add that 70 V, 20 A is declared at the input, 58 V 30A at the output. And as a bonus, I can say that I supplied 90 V to the input, since I want to use such converters for solar panels, which have a voltage of 85-90 V just at idle speed. And the converter copes with this voltage, without any problems and heating.

[@johncoops6897]

@@nikmanmar4601 - first you say you cannot get 30A then you say you measure 32.5A or even 40A. So that doesn't make sense. Despite what the manufacturer might claim, there is no way these modules can provide 54V at 30A on the output. The rating probably means "54V *OR* 30A" at the output... the maximum rating is only 800W. The buck converter just folds and drops out when you overload it. ... So it is very confusing what you are trying to ask about ... or trying to tell us. My replies are just in response to your original comment that said _"But apparently I cannot achieve 30 Amperes at the output."_ at 26V, so I was trying to explain some technical reasons why that might not be possible.

[@travelwithijazahmed2585]

Nice video bro

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@pakes69]

Hello this board is good but outpus loss toroid coil

[@Elpatronbikes448]

top video,,,,❤❤

[@algoparaaprender1333]

Puedes cargar con él teniendo en cuenta que tienes usar bms para la protección de las baterías

[@anwin85alon]

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger.

[@thecyborg6718]

Can you put a 10 turns CC and CV potentiometers to this module and and an voltmeter/ ampmeter display? I want to build a powerfull power supply using an iron core transformer and this module .

[@WattHour]

for multi-turn potentiometer sure you can as long as you put the exact value. For displaying voltage, it is very easy but for current you need to do some work and read the voltage of the shunt and calculate it dis play it on the ammeter.

[@devenlakapu2450]

Hallii can i ask?

[@emrekeremozyurt296]

I think u did miscalculation here 17:54 the output current should be 28amps

[@johncoops6897]

This test is not very clear what you are actually testing. You seem to just try to list efficiency at some certain power outputs. So, whilst you might test at 500W, what is the maximum it can produce for a given Input and Output voltage? For example, you test 70V to 24V and say "20.1A" Then you test 36V to 24V and say "25A". However this relates to the nominal Constant POWER settings that you set your load. You set power for 500W for the 70V test, and set 700W for the 36V test. What is the MAXIMUM it can produce at (say) 36V in and 24V out, which is actually what everyone wants to know?

[@WattHour]

I have tested all possible or standard input and output and nothing should have been left. If you don’t see the possible test . Then it is not possible to do it.

[@johncoops6897]

​@@WattHour - I don't think you understand. You are setting your Load in Constant *WATTAGE* mode, and you test in increments of 100W - like at 400W, 500W, 600W, and 700W. But that doesn't demonstrate the output capability. For example: What is the *maximum* current (or wattage) that the device can provide for 24V output? At what timestamp(s) in your video is this shown? ... I give you examples, and timestamps: (1) *70V Input 24V output* :. At 16:25 you set Load for 600W but "cannot do it" At 16:40 you set the load to 500W. You published results 70V in, 23.8V Out, 20.1A with *499.88W* on screen. - Can the device provide 550W (23A)? What about 30A? (2) *36V Input 24V Output* : 26:32 you set Load for 600W Publish results 36V In, 24.022V out, 24.9917A, with *600.34W* on screen. - Can the device provide 650W or even 680W? ... Normally for this kind of test, you decide on acceptable voltage drop (say 5%), set device output to (say) 24V and slowly increase the Load AMPS until voltage drops by 5% (eg: 22.8V). In your tests, most times you just enter an arbitrary Wattage rounded to closest 100W. So we viewers have no way to know what the maximum output power is at various voltages. This takes a long time to type - I hope it is clear what I mean. 😊

[@nikmanmar4601]

The manufacturer seems to have indicated all the parameters, if you apply 36 V at the input, then the limitation is 20 Amperes. At the output, respectively, you can get 24 V, and 28-29 Amperes. You may not believe the manufacturer, but I can say that the transducer gives out its parameters within the limits stated by the manufacturer.

[@johncoops6897]

​@@nikmanmar4601 - Perhaps WattHour has performed some tests here with the Constant Current potentiometer not set to maximum? The test voltages and results published in this video don't seem to make sense, so it is very difficult to determine what is possible from this module. I tried to make a table of test results but found that the output currents don't correspond to what would normally be expected with such a converter. He seems to get different output current from various input and output voltages (within the 800W/30A ratings of course). I'm interesting in these modules, and I do have quite a lot of experience with both Buck and Buck/Boost converters. However please note that my comments here are only based on this video, and I have no experience with this particular converter module.

[@talusranch990]

8:52 thermal

[@UjawalasukramSonawane]

Kya ye milega

[@victorreppeto7050]

The need to implement a soft start makes this a bad product for beginners. I expect devices like this to provide protection against current and voltage spikes.

[@alisengul2478]

Output 18v test incorrect 18.2 A. false 28.2 A. true

[@krishnadevraj209]

Yes sir these all module is useless for charging purpose we should choose perfect charger or SMPS for every different voltage battery with very high above 95% efficient charger or SMPS not charge with these type module no get amp and watt as they mention and we loss many things like first our power supply loss the ac power then these module losses again. If we choose perfect charger then loss power only for that charger not by module.

[@josemolina3364]

las cosas buenas desaparesen de youtube i queda el estierc

[@ΠετροςΟικονομου-ξ4ι]

Ελληνικά τα ξεχασες

[@WattHour]

Σε ευχαριστώ που με ενημέρωσες. Δεν θέλω να ξεχάσω τους αγαπημένους μου Έλληνες.