Review of Neewer Infrared lens filter kit

[@daustonian9331]

Wow! Price has doubled in the last four years. I hope that shows more interest in infrared photography! Thanks for the comparison, it is what I was looking for.

[@a.nevillechamberlain7612]

More detailed information than we deserve, thanks for the in depth detailed explanation with examples. It really helped to gauge the value and effectiveness of the product Thanks for this post

[@bobbyhill1156]

This video is PERFECT, as well all your videos. Well done, easy to understand and very helpful/informative. This is the best IR channel out there. Thanks for sharing, Rob!

[@robshea]

Thanks so much! I appreciate your feedback.

[@timlee5654]

thanks so much for your detailed, step by step procedure! I am deeply appreciated for what you contribute

[@kdj.imagery4317]

Very informative video Rob, it's funny I had tried infrared a few years ago with bad results. I had bought a filter off Ebay for under 10 bucks, tried shooting with it and the raw files came out purple. Thought it was just a cheap filter and after watching this video I went back and looked at the filter and discovered it was in fact an 950nm! Was trying to do color swapping and wondered why I couldn't get anywhere with it. Also, I went back and check the brand and it was in fact the Neewer brand. You should try a brand called ICE. I have just purchased one of their 760nm and it does both color and bw pretty well on an un-converted camera.

[@fitou143]

Interesting video I am looking at picking up some filters for a IR converted X T1

[@jasam123]

Awesome job, apprecite it!

[@louaiello1493]

Best video comparison I've seen and really answers some questions about IR photography. My question is whether or not you compared the shot taken with the unconverted camera - converted to B&W in Lightroom to the 850 nm frame? I'm wondering how an image converted to B&W in LR compares to the same image made with the "850nm" look In other words, trying to justify the expense of IR filters or conversion

[@robshea]

Here is that comparison. The image on the left is the camera converted to a 590nm with an external 850nm, in other words, only IR light 850nm and longer is hitting the sensor. On the right is an unconverted camera (internal hot mirror allowing visible light and limiting exposure of near-IR) with an external 850nm. The image on the left with the converted camera features a dark sky and bright foliage. The images on the right looks more like a conventional visible light B&W. A converted camera will produce a dramatically different look. photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-TxHBR8q/0/36514aea/4K/i-TxHBR8q-4K.png

[@louaiello1493]

Much more dramatic than i was expecting. Thank you for making the time for this comparison. .

[@DesertOryx]

Great Video! So good information! I have a question: If I convert my camera to 590nm or 620nm and then put an 850nm on the lense, do I still have fast shuttertimes? Or will I need a tripod and expose for several seconds?

[@RobShea0]

Yes, if you convert a camera to 590nm and add a filter with a higher number, 620, 665, 720, 760, 850, 950, etc. then you will be able to shoot with relatively fast shutter speeds and will not be required to use a tripod.

[@DelosJohnson]

@@RobShea0 I've found with a 590nm converted camera, adding 720nm seems to add about 2 f/stops.

[@stephanpaier9887]

Hi Rob! The 720nm-look is exactly the one, I always wanted... therefor I sent my X-E2 to a conversion to 720nm. By now I have not found a way to make them look that way in Lum 4 and I really don´t want to pay for lightroom just for that. Do you have a way to achieve the desired look in Lum4? That would help making me really happy😉 Thx, Stephan

[@robshea]

Take a look at my video on Luminar 4, that should be a good start. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qKnGYamtdtWfgKc

[@stephanpaier9887]

Thank you, I have in the meantime watched quite a few of your videos and learned a lot!!!! Then I followed your path (dng editor....), imported the dcp in Luminar, set the white balance, mixed the channels and did some minor edits. I Then saved everything as a look and now it is only one click from the RAF to the finished jpg I like a lot.... So in conclusion: if Luminar works well everything can be supereasy and in my case, at the moment ist does in fact look very promising.... With a very big help of all of your videos😉😉😉 Thank you very much for that , Stephan

[@neilfpv]

Awesome! What are the different nm numbers use for? Is it like a strength?

[@robshea]

These filters are considered high-pass or low-cut filters, meaning that they allow light above the listed frequency to pass, but block light at lower frequencies. The abbreviation for nanometers is nm. For example, a 720nm filter allows light with a frequency above 720nm to pass to the film/sensor, this is some red and near-infrared, and blocks light below 720nm, which is most visible light colors and near-UV. This video offers a summary. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bpzCp4KJqJ1gosU

[@neilfpv]

@@robshea oh cool! I'll check it out. What frequency filter do I need if I want vegetation like trees/plants to look color white?

[@robshea]

@@neilfpv A 720nm filter will render vegetation as white.

[@neilfpv]

@@robshea Thanks a lot Rob! 😊

[@MrBillkaz]

Desmond ice 760 does so much of a better job with color separation and white foliage than the Hoya 720 ,… for my unconverted Sony rx10 … what’s your take doc ? I can wrap my head around it … I’m going through withdrawal as my 760 broke

[@robshea]

I have not used the ICE filter. A 760nm filter should capture only IR, no color visible light, and produce a monochrome image. If you are seeing multiple colors with a 760nm filter, that suggests that it is leaking too much visible light below 760nm.

[@fandyus4125]

0:58 Is that the sea? That looks kinda horrifying. I can't wait for it to be sunny so I can try my 950nm filter.

[@robshea]

That is the Pacific Ocean. Water reflects very little IR light resulting in very deep blacks in 800nm+ images. 😱

[@phantasm2575]

So can i throw this on a gopro mount with a 52mm lens mount, slap on an ir light and have rudimentary night vision?

[@RobShea0]

PHANTASM! Using on a uncoverted camera means that the existing sensor filter inside the camera will filter out IR light. It may require a very strong IR light to overcome this. I suspect that it would not work well, but these lenses are fairly inexpensive if you wanted to try. Using with a converted camera would probably produce much better results.

[@albertobusinaroph]

How did you manage to take these shots on the unconverted camera in such low time? Have you used high ISOs or low f/stops? I tried by myself and it took at least 10-15 mins for the 850nm with my unconverted Zfc with Z DX 50-250 f4.5/6.3 at the lowest ISO. Thank you

[@robshea]

These low quality filters are not very good at blocking visible light. They leak way too much visible light. This is why the exposure times are so low. When shooting with a Hoya, B&W, or other quality filter at the lowest ISO, a 720nm filter should have an exposure time of around 15-30 seconds and a 850nm filter should have an exposure time of 5-10 minutes. You were clearly using a better filter. Here is a an example from a couple years after this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n6vVYoOrbcqVbJI

[@albertobusinaroph]

@@robshea Thank you for the response! I tried them, and noticed in some tests that while trees and grass tend to be white, evergreen trees from the direct shot (and during post-processing) they appear dark, like they don't become white. Can it always depend by the filter itself? Thank you in advance!

[@secrettreasure1388]

*TAHANKS * *********

[@AZTEC_ARTS2023]

If i buy one of these and cut it to size, will it work by placing it over the sensor (internally) instead of using this as a lens filter ??

[@robshea]

For internal sensor usage, I would be more inclined to purchase a filter already cut to size, such as those from LifePixel. The quality will be much better and you won't need to cut the filter. 590.red/lp-diy-filters

[@leighann5308]

Hi Rob I’m trying a Hoya r72 on my Sony a6400 the lcd screen is too dark almost black how can’t tell what I’m shooting?

[@robshea]

I would recommend increasing the ISO for the sake of setting a composition and focusing, but then returning to a lower ISO before taking the shot.

[@leighann5308]

@@robshea thank you Rob your amazing ❤️you are the infrared king 👑 I was going to have my wonderful Olympus Pen PL-2 that did great unconverted but the day I was going to send off to Lifepixel for conversion it died I was bummed as I baby all my camera gear perfect condition, so that plan fell thru. The week before I had dug out my barely used Sony A6000 that had my sigma 150-600 attached and stored flat, I brought it out as my bluebirds were back, low and behold it was dead 😞 I tried new batteries and even attached with the Sony charger no charge light nothing, I was disappointed I had bought it brand new from Best Buy a few years ago and only had taken about 500 shots so now I can’t send that into LP for conversion. Boo. I don’t know how it died being unused about 6mo. I still have my A6400, my canon 80D, and my perfect mint condition Canon 5D mark ii. I’m thinking about sending the 5D in for conversion what do you think? For my infrared I’m still using my dependable lovely old Olympus c2020Z great cam for infrared but it’s so slow writing to the card and only 2.1MP. Thank you for responding to all my questions. I love all your vids keep up the great work. I was thinking about buying used from LP but still need to add price of IR conversion to the camera cost. I’m so picky with my gear I would hate to have it all scratched and marked up they don’t show pics of the actual cam and no warranty on the cam.

[@robshea]

@@leighann5308 What an unfortunate string of events! Converting a camera you have, especially one in good condition, is usually more affordable than buying a new one. I recommend researching each lens you own for IR. If the lenses you have for the 5DM2 are good for IR, then that would be a good choice. If not, you would need to buy lenses for IR, which could impact your decision. Here are some links for researching lenses. 590.red/lenses

[@leighann5308]

@@robshea thanks I have a canon 40mm 2.8 pancake and 50 1.8 which looks good, my 50m1.4 (not good). I have some lenses for my Olympus pen that died including a 20mm Panasonic lumix 1.7 which is good for IR. Should I convert my 5D Mark ii or look for a used Olympus OMD EM1 mark I on Lifepixel website. I would like to try a fujifilm but I don’t have any lenses that would work unless they use Panasonic lumix lenses. Thanks for your help. Have a great weekend ❤️

[@robshea]

@@leighann5308 Here is a video with some considerations: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rmnUgZ2kaM2thMU I'm partial to mirrorless cameras, since they can focus via the viewfinder and tend to have focus peaking, which is particularly helpful for manual focusing.

[@kavorka8855]

Not "infrared cut off" but "infrared passband" :D

[@JovanyMirada]

Did you need a long exposure for this images? I'm thinking about trying IR for video.

[@robshea]

If you are using a camera converted to full spectrum or an internal IR filter, such as 590nm, then the exposures will be similar to visible light. However, if you are using a standard, unconverted camera then the exposures are much higher. In the final sequence I shot with an unconverted camera, the visible light image was shot at 1/600 sec exposure, whereas the 4 filters required 2.3 seconds, 12 seconds, 25 seconds, and 25 seconds. They all ended up underexposed at that. If you wanted to use for video, it would require a converted camera.

[@JovanyMirada]

@@robshea Great, thank you. I'm actually getting a converted camera.

[@DesertOryx]

@@robshea I have just left a comment and now see that you were very close on my question here already, so I ask here again: If I convert my camera to 590nm or 620nm and then put an 850nm filter on the lense, do I still have fast shuttertimes? Or will I need a tripod and expose for several seconds? THank you for this great great information

[@robshea]

@@DesertOryx You will have fast shutter speeds, tripod not required.

[@yammd685]

I want to shot ilford sfx 200 film, and i have the neweer 720nm filter, do you think this combination can works? I reed some reviews and those mention this filters are not a true infrared spectrum and are only a deep red filters, thanks.

[@robshea]

Ilford SFX 200 35mm claims to read up to 740nm and appears to trail off up to about 775nm. You can see a chart here: www.ilfordphoto.com/amfile/file/download/file/1907/product/701/. With a 720nm filter, this means your film would see all of the light from 720 to 740nm and then would trail off towards 775nm. This could work and give you an Infrared B&W image. However, with such a slender slice of a spectrum, you might not get much contrast and you may need longer exposures. Not sure. Rollei Infrared film is sensitive up to 820nm, so that could work as well. More spectrum could result in more contrast.

[@yammd685]

Thanks a lot Rob, i'm going to shot one roll of 35mm sfx film with this neweer 720nm Ir filter and i share the results with you.

[@bigbeebrian]

The take away for me is the poorer image quality from Neewer vs Hoya, Tiffen etc.

[@upseguest]

720 nm is FR not NIR

[@robshea]

720nm is typically considered to be red in the visible light spectrum. Near-Infrared (NIR) runs from about 750nm to about 1,400nm. However, most digital camera sensors can only detect light up to about 1,000nm.