Revisited: Rust Reformer vs Primer on Rust Part 2 - One Year Later

It’s been a year since I recorded the Revisited: Rust Reformer vs Primer on Rust Part 1 video. With a year passing and a few Instagram pictures later, here are the results of our experiment. Thank you all for your feedback and support! Enjoy!
Revisited: Rust Reformer vs Primer on Rust Part 1: • Revisited: Rust Refor...
Original Rust Reformer video: • Rust Reformer vs Prime...
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[@Pendragon501]

Rust Reformer (in the bottle, I've never used the spray) works great if it's painted over! We had an old 1996 Dodge Ram that got scratched on the door, which turned into a 2 inch rusty spot. I cleaned it up the best I could, did two brush coats of Rust Reformer, some primer, couple coats of paint, then two coats of clear. I had the truck for another 15 years and that spot never rusted again!

[@ChaosGarage]

Nice! That's good to hear!

[@TwangTown]

This reply should be a sticky post at the top of this thread. I used Rust reformer on my 71 Chevelle, then sanded and etch primed. Sealed and 2k Urethane. It worked very well, and is holding up great too. In the past I used Rust Mort, now I'm just using the rattle can RR. Ill revisit this in a few years. Thanks for posting all these shootouts. Forrest Lee Jr.

[@jck9590]

Thank God KZbin added the speed-up option to these videos. I would have never made it through...

[@ChaosGarage]

You can skip around too!

[@tiktaktotiki8595]

Omg.bla bla bla.speed up option.sounds good to me.have to check it out. Rust converter is a brilliant product.

[@ChaosGarage]

:D

[@toomuchtruth]

Thanks a lot for taking the time to make this informative video. As others have said the Rust reformer needs to be painted over, else it's like performance testing a new Honda Civic on dirt roads- its not designed to be used that way. Idea for the ultimate rusty metal paint test: (could just use the opposite side of that bar). Bar is divided into 3 parts (with small piece of bare rusty metal left to act as the Control: 1.) Unprepped metal. 2.) Prepped with wire brush then washed with detergent. 3.) Prepped intensively with wire wheel (removing most rust) then washed with detergent. Each Part above is sub-divided into these sections: 1.) Plain metal. 2) Rust reformer only. 3) Enamel paint only. 4) Rust reformer+ enamel paint. 5) Primer + enamel paint 6) Rust reformer + primer + enamel paint. Use a solution of salt+ water (use ALOT of salt) to speed up the rusting process from months to a couple weeks, like in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/onvJdGaFm6xkY8k Optionally use one of those spring loaded car window breaker tools to put about 4 even chips on each paint job, to simulate rock chips under a car & see how each paint responds in the face of that (how fast the rust spreads under the paint). Spring loaded window breaker tool: www.amazon.com/VicTsing-Seatbelt-Portable-Underwater-Emergency/dp/B0814WTK2P/ref=sr_1_19

[@michaelfrederic7343]

Rust reformer isn't a topcoat. enamel did best because it most sealed the surface. like how fresh primer car fenders rust through if you don't paint them, the primer and converter are porous and meant as a substrate that treats metal and then needs a protectant paint layer. the right process is rust removal or converter, etch primer, fill primer, paint. rust converter just converts top layer rust inert. oxygen cannot rust the lower layers after painting and then its safe. all of those test panels will eventually rust through because your process is missing key steps.

[@johndoe-zb8bm]

Michael Frederic I agree with you.The rust reformer works when you prep,apply, and then seal with a coat of paint! It's not rocket science, lol.

[@ChaosGarage]

I think you guys are right. I am no painting expert, nor claim to be. The test was not flawed since it clearly answered the experiment's intent. I agree if you care about what you are painting then you should take the time and a little more money to prep it correctly, prime, and then top coat. Thanks for the feedback!

[@johndoe-zb8bm]

Chaos Garage I was not knocking you test,it was valid!! I think it would work well if paint was applied after......I appreciate the info!

[@ChaosGarage]

Oh no, I'm not offended or anything. I like people to give me feedback and their opinions...that's what the Internet is all about! And I agree top coating is the way to go no doubt. Cheers my friend!

[@kylemiller6639]

i've been fooling around with electrolysis to remove rust but for the life of me - i cannot find clear advice on best way to prep/paint afterwards. right now i just have some de-rusted bolts soaking in used motor oil. they were completely unsalvageable as they had about 40 yrs of tractor tire CaCl leakage rust. they are my first-attempt experimental pieces. how much "black crud" do you have to get off? how to prep whatever you have before it immediately starts rusting? what can you use to prevent flash rusting (lots of people suggest WD-40) but then whether you have to again somehow remove whatever that rust preventor is with solvents, etc (that is - can you prime over WD-40?) ? so why do electrolysis if you end up doing so much prep work as opposed to just wire-wheeling and using rust converter? i'm also still a bit confused about what "etch primer" is. i guess that its different from "metal etch" - right? and is "metal etch" really just muriatic acid? MF, your comment on the video makes me think you might know what you're talking about, unlike much of the confusing and contradictory advice i've gleaned so far. even the Eastwood car-refinish guru's offer somewhat unhelpful and less-than-thorough advice.

[@huntressangel3992]

Thanks for taking the time to do this video, I am restoring a metal bird feeder pole that I love and your video has shown me prep is most important I have already used Krud Kutter to remove the rust but will now follow up with the inhibitor, primer and enamel. Love that you stuck with these informative videos for a year thank you again.

[@ChaosGarage]

Nice! Sounds like you are doing it right! Glad I could help.

[@huntressangel3992]

@@ChaosGarage most definitely

[@MegaHugro]

Good video. Last year, I used brush-on Rust Reformer with a top coat Rustoleum enamel on a severely rusted mower deck, and it is holding up great, so far. The RR appears to convert and seal the surface, but the vinyl acrylic finish it leaves will not hold up to the elements. Top coating with the enamel provides that hard-finish surface protection for the long run.

[@ChaosGarage]

Nice! Thanks for corroborating the findings!

[@barbworden8612]

The only thing I would like to see is enamel over reformer on a prepped surface as you did just wire brush. Thanks

[@Thatonedude1979]

Thanks for taking the time to do this test it definitely helped me make a decision on my truck frame

[@ChaosGarage]

I'm glad it helps!! Cheers!

[@RustyGlovebox]

Nice example on how a little prep work can make a real difference.

[@ChaosGarage]

Yeah over the past year I didn't look at it too closely but I was surprised (and a little excited) when I wiped it off with windex before shooting and saw the difference. Thanks for watching!

[@craiggerlach5548]

Rust Reformer is the shit.. Best stuff I've found to date. Need to topcoat. Need a pt3... I could upload video of beam if need be...

[@FargoFX]

Very nice work. Awesome to get results from a whole year worth of testing. Thanks!

[@ChaosGarage]

Thanks, it was a long test but worth it if it helps!

[@swartzjasonm]

Thanks for this, I watched all three videos. It helped me out a lot. I've got a 47 willys cj2a that I'm doing a budget restore on. It's got a lot of rust in the floors. I cut out the cancer and the the rotten hat channel and wire wheeled every thing. From your video I've decided to use rust reformer and then primer over top. I hope most of it stays on when I plug weld the hat channel on. My concern was moisture collecting between the channel and floor. Once all my welding and patching is done and primed it's getting line x on the underside and floors/ bed! Hope it's rust proof. Thanks again. A one year test was perfect.

[@ChaosGarage]

Spectacular! Let me know how it turns out!

[@SteveRobReviews]

Good evaluation - advertising can and does work but real life testing is the best. Nicely done buddy. 👍👍

[@ChaosGarage]

+STEVE ROB thank you my friend. I agree completely. This was a tough one to test as it took time. Other than that it was pretty easy haha

[@69novaguy91]

Good test and proves prep work will beat any claims of miracle rust inhibitors .... Thanks for posting your experiment it will help a lot of people and hope you win the youtube lottery with it again ..... Cheers from Canada,Ontario

[@ChaosGarage]

+69 NovaGuy thanks, the video is doing alright so far. I hope the experiment does help people and they understand the premise of it better than I explained in the first one. There are so many opinions that it would be impossible to test them all. I agree this video does make it pretty clear that the more time you spend preparing, the better your long term results will be. Thanks for checking it out my new friend!

[@HardKnocksForge]

An old guy told me that the best paint jobs out there are about how you paint. It's 95% prep work that leads to a killer paint job. This did show me that my 10% prep work is better than nothing though...

[@ChaosGarage]

+Hard Knocks Forge agreed, the more time you put into prep, the better the results. Some stuff just isn't worth the time and effort to go all out. But this at least shows that hitting it with a wire brush or wheel is better than nothing!

[@TheOpenAirGarage]

Great to see the results of this. I agree with getting rid of the rust and then using the product. Well done.

[@ChaosGarage]

I thought about doing that too but based off comments, I think in the very first video I didn't make the point of the experiment very clear. I guess that's also part of the reason for the lengthy intro explanation...the other part being a tiny channel when I made that video and I'm sure a lot of my subscribers haven't seen the first two videos, I thought I'd save them some mind numbing time of going back to watch them for a year old experiment to make sense. Thanks for watching!

[@BubbasgarageTv]

Great update brother. Long term review love it. Im totally with you. Its all about that prep work.

[@ChaosGarage]

Indeed, it was a noticeable difference on that half prepared piece. Just knocking the scale off made a big difference. Thanks for checking it out!

[@BubbasgarageTv]

oh I know right. Absolutely brother.

[@randyolson415]

My understanding is that you have to do 2 coats and paint over that with rustoleum enamel, it works for me,5 years and no bleedthu,outside lawn furniture

[@HARPO1ME]

Great test .Thanks.Now I have a clue.All in the prep and some good enamel .

[@CameronDC-Grimes]

You are not supposed to use only Rust-oleum Rust Reformer! 1. You have to somewhat prep the Rusted metal for starters, before applying reformer/rust converter meaning, you get all the thick rust off with sanders or wire wheels, you pressure wash the metal surface, use degreaser and allow surface to completely dry before even thinking about spraying any reformer! Remember Rust-oleum Rust Reformer is just a Rust converter for surface rust that makes moderate surface rust into primer for a paint coating. 2. you spray the Reformer on in 3 separate coatings and first two layers use 2000 grit sandpaper to add more adhesion and smoothness. 3. After that you use Rust Stop/2X spray by Rustoleum. 4. Then you inspect any areas that may need another sand and cover. 5. Check on it every 3 months, around 6-8 months you probably need to lightly sand to prep surface and spray reformer then rust stop enamel coating. None of these products will protect or stop deep rust that has gone beyond minor to moderate surface rust. That needs a complete restoration/replacement. In that case it's best to have the frame or parts sandblasted at a shop then you can apply paint that has rust preventative coating and a clear coat on top. Warning: ▪︎ if you have a Box Frame "□" and not a C-Frame then you have a seriously difficult job to properly rust prevent the inside of the frame. Not even the high end products protects from just the outside. Box frames require pressurized rust converting primer and then rust preventing coating to be pushed into the frame from highest point through a drilled hole and after drained out a newly drilled bottom hole. You then seal the holes with welds or a quality automotive seal that you check very often. I'm mainly using rust prevention on suspension parts like UCA, Lower Control Arms, Sway Bar/Links and Shock Mounts or any Bracket I change parts on or see rust forming! If you coat the bracket your control arm or shock goes on before you put the replacement part on, it reduces the chance those parts build rust and or develop failure, replace bolts with Zinc coated Grade 8.8/10.9 and add blue threadlocker to prevent rust building on bolts or parts. You can generally take off blue 242 loctite threadlocker with

[@netmatrix75]

The rust reformer requires another coating of paint in order to protect metal. Rust reformers chemically converts rust to paintable surface. It is not supposed to be left as it is.

[@ChaosGarage]

No doubt it works better with a top coat. However, that was beyond the scope of this experiment and the can says on it that you don't have to top coat it.

[@NoferTrunions]

I'd like to see a comparison of: Rust Reformer, Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, and POR-15

[@a4e69636b]

I would like to add Rust Bullet to the list.

[@elymisany]

This guys editing skills are on point, good commentary too

[@ChaosGarage]

Much appreciated!

[@dupeaccount1647]

I have some old rust reformer and other paints and primers and have a radiator shroud (not going to use long term, will eventually stand up the radiator, it's a 4th gen camaro with the tilted radiator) and little brackets for holding the headlights in as well as a steering linkage I still need to take apart (and replace the rag joint with metal). The shroud had a little spot of rust which did piss me off a bit as it was powder coated from BMR already. The headlights even had a little rust on them and the brackets had a ton of rust. I wire wheeled the loose crap off the brackets. I'm hitting everything with rust reformer then a primer then a top coat, because why not?

[@HodgePodgeGarage]

Good stuff...that's commitment to a test!

[@ChaosGarage]

Thanks! It wasn't too difficult...just throw it out in the yard and forget about it for a year haha Thanks for watching!

[@danzbeard]

thanks for all the work you put into this

[@ChaosGarage]

My pleasure!

[@craiggerlach5548]

I used this over rusty beam . Let cure 48 hours then painted with kahki camo over the top. Been there 3 years not a spec of rust came through. Tried VHT and just a rust primer, neither lasted same time. Beam was not exposed to salt. Going g to use under Tamco DTA epoxy primer since they changed description of the DTA and 5310 primers, the 5311 being the one to buy. If he had top coated as instructed it would have had different results.

[@ChaosGarage]

Totally agree about the top coat...however outside of the scope of my experiment :) I'm glad to hear it worked out great for you and thanks for sharing your experience!!!

[@rickiji1]

I have to say that your test has a major flaw. Primers are not designed to be exposed to the elements for long periods of time. If you would have sealed the two primers with a top coat,ie,enamel paint,then took some paint remover,and got back to bare metal,you would have gotten different results. The chemical change created by the rust reformer primer would shown you a significantly better rust reduction,or inhibitory result.I restore cars as a hobby,and have done the tests to see if rust reformer is a better product.My conclusion was that it is if used as directed.Hope this helps in your quest to stop rust too!.

[@alan6832]

Pretty boat in pretty woods. guess it would be even prettier in water, but still pretty in woods. You should test enamel over primer and converter rather than just testing them alone, though testing "self priming enamel" could be included. All of your test coatings were intended to be 2 layer coatings and none of them were layered in the test.

[@Smurphenstein]

Problem is you are using just one part of a two or three part system. All need a topcoat of a waterproof coating over a primer over a converter if used. Not a scientific or reliable test by any means.

[@barneyclovis]

thanks for your work however about the same time i used it on my van under body and added wax coat the results are incredible john uk

[@ChaosGarage]

Interesting, I hadn't thought of waxing the under body.

[@MrRamook]

Awsome video.Great job thumb up 👍👍👍

[@ChaosGarage]

Thanks Bosna!

[@gatsugansukh3724]

5:42 skip the babble

[@dl9847]

Thanks for doing this. I would love to see a comparison review of Rustoleum Reformer & Mar-Hyde which is also a rust converter.

[@erikmedina7535]

I just did a rust reformer with a sandable primer and paint + primer on top

[@brandonstafford4054]

That first test was what brought me to your channel in the first place. Since then I've seen lots of cool stuff you have done and now in waiting to see how the Chaos Cart comes out. Keep up the good work!

[@ChaosGarage]

I really appreciate that man! I'm sure you can tell how much I've changed in the past year and a half getting more comfortable with doing the video thing (I know I can) and I'm glad you stuck around. Hopefully this weekend the Chaos Kart will take its maiden voyage under its own power. The last time it moved I was pulling Travis with the four wheeler wayyy too fast...there may have been a drink or two involved I can't quite remember haha

[@mostlymoparih5682]

Wow ten years went by real fast. Well good info, good video, good bye.

[@ChaosGarage]

+MostlymoparIH hah thanks!

[@rocktruckrob]

Nice vid bud.....keep em coming.....good test

[@ChaosGarage]

+rocktruckrob thank you it was a long time in the making!

[@lyftube1218]

Yeh man , you gotta prepare before to get the work done Wise words Stay blessed 💐💐

[@ChaosGarage]

+Be the AmazingYou thank you my friend!

[@jaymechanic1228]

Awesome channel and great videos man!!

[@ChaosGarage]

+Jamie Smith thank you!

[@mtmchenry]

Thanks for the follow up with the test.

[@ChaosGarage]

My pleasure my friend, hope it helps!

thanks for the honest review bro

[@byronstoddard9709]

When it comes to scratching i think the rust reformer does better than the enamel. Would you agree?

[@ChaosGarage]

For light scratches that would make sense since the Rust Reformer is supposed to have a chemical reaction to seal the rust under it. But to be fair almost all Rustoleum products say they stop rust. So I don't know if you would be able to tell much of a difference or not.

[@raymond4456]

Excellent video , U did a great job thanks for sharing!

[@ChaosGarage]

Thank you

[@Greg-tj8rg]

Was looking into spot painting a bicycle. Guess I'll be spending some time spot sanding it then prime and paint it. Hopefully the rust hasn't spread a lot or gone too deep (it doesn't look very bad as far as I can tell).

[@ChaosGarage]

Hope all turns out well for you! I know that bike metal can be pretty thin. Sounds like you are on the right track though!

[@JohnAvantiBK]

Looks as though they all did pretty good after a year. I will use the enamel over the RR and may be good to go.

[@ChaosGarage]

Thanks for checking out the video! Hope it turned out well for ya!

[@ThecrazyScotsman]

pretty cool bud

[@ChaosGarage]

+ThecrazyScotsman thank you sir!

[@zeussinternational]

Good video ... Now learned something interesting... 👍

[@ChaosGarage]

Awesome!

[@LesleyRona]

Thank you for this. I was looking for info about painting a metal tea tray and cake tin. This is a great comparison. Off to bash the rust and buy a can of enamel!

[@ChaosGarage]

Woohoo! You're welcome and good luck!

[@markparks1854]

I usually find videos too short but not this one. Jump to about the half way point, the first half is painful then it is a good video.

[@Revnge7Fold]

omw... I don't understand why in all the "Rust test" videos I see, EVERYONE uses the rust reform PRIMER as a top coat... ITS A PRIMER!! hahahaha, dont get me wrong, thank you for the test/video...

[@ChaosGarage]

To be fair it also says on the can that you don't "need" to top coat. Though I definitely recommend it!

[@wingcha6019]

Thanks, it's great experience

[@ChaosGarage]

You're welcome!

[@sylasbl]

Very nice share. Thanks.

[@ChaosGarage]

Thanks!

[@Asian_Connection]

Rust converter don't work, rust is still active under the paint and eating the metal at an aggressive ratr.

[@sergioc.6431]

Thank you i will see which one works best for my bike restoration project. Good luck with the channel

[@ChaosGarage]

Thanks!

[@luckyjackson9984]

That's your conclusion it works great if it's used right has to be prepared in top coated don't agree with your evaluation at all I've used it and it works

[@Seth133usmc]

Hey i reay liked the video. I use Rust Refirmer sometimes for things like that. Its good to know that I got to top coat it. Would you consider doing a review on Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer? Id be very interested to see how it compares.

[@ChaosGarage]

Thanks. Next time I hit Home Depot I'll take a look and I might be able to come up with something! Thanks for watching!

[@Smurphenstein]

To me rust converters are only for things you can't get to that well or rust you can't remove by other means. Then it still requires further treatment.

[@davegreeley]

Support and thumbs up

[@ChaosGarage]

Thanks!

[@hereticsshallbecleansed7245]

Just to make sure after reading the comments. I NEED ANOTHER layer on top of the primer or rust reformer for them to work? What if I don't want to paint it?

[@ChaosGarage]

Yup seems so. That's why I left it outside for a year. If you don't want to paint it then I'd just buy a can to fog over it every 6 months to a year.

[@MidwestMotoRider]

Very interesting man!

[@ChaosGarage]

Thanks!

[@jefflindsey9589]

Cool test

[@ChaosGarage]

+jeff lindsey thanks!

[@mjohn9199]

I have a commercial Tornado shelter that part of the door is gotten rusty. I was trying to decide what prep work I need to do before I repaint the door.

[@factsdontcareaboutfeelings9384]

If it is not rusted through and just surface rust i would just wire wheel it, prime and paint it. If it is rusted out then that is more work either way you are best off to get as much rust off as you can to decide what step is next. You never know how deep rust goes till you start removing it.

[@ChaosGarage]

agreed

[@PBS-nm1uu]

thanks for all the comments people

[@sean123456789]

Did you scratch off the paint to see what the surface underneath looks like?

[@ChaosGarage]

I did not after I saw what was bleeding through the paint.

[@Meiral77]

Thanks so much for the great information. I'm a "girl" and I want to paint a bottom pan from a bird cage - it's very rusty. I plan on following your excellent advice. I was really worried that I might hurt my baby birds, but I think I'll be ok now. No rust reformer for me. I'll sand/brush off the nasty rust and then cover it with the Rustoleum enamel. Thanks so much - I just did not have a year to wait for these results! 🐦

[@ChaosGarage]

Thanks! I'm not a bird owner myself but I did find this website which might help you to refinish the cage and keep them safe! www.beautyofbirds.com/refinishingcages.html

[@paulg444]

Great information!, So why not reformer-primer-enamal , in that order?

[@ChaosGarage]

That would likely have a great result. No doubt a primer and topcoat would be the best way to go about it. I was testing each product individually out of curiosity. For the rusty trailer I'm building, I plan on doing a primer and enamel on top of that. I think using all 3 would be a bit of a waste since the rust reformer and primer are doing basically the same thing. We'll see how well it holds up!

[@wyattoneable]

That's a great comparison. It helps me buy my next paint.

[@ChaosGarage]

+wyattoneable thanks! I'm glad I could help!

[@bogoss3178]

I think that there is a flaw to your experiment and it is that you are using the same piece of metal. If there is rust on one side/spot, I think it will spread and contaminate the whole thing. It would be more accurate if you use one piece of metal for each “spray”. I am not saying that what I am saying is right but it is just what I think.

[@ChaosGarage]

Interesting theory. I chose the piece I did because it was rusted uniformly and I thought it would be a fair comparison.

[@factsdontcareaboutfeelings9384]

@@ChaosGarage rust is rust it doesnt matter on the piece. I have delt with rust for lots of different things. Smaller things i just soak in vinegar but larger things you normally have to take a wire wheel to. The only flaw i seen in your experiment was the fact that converter is not meant to be a top coat. It is more of a primer base coat so they are close in comparison to each other except the other two are more of the next stage on work. Good experiment though either way. Maybe next time throw a cover layer on them to give a better comparison. ( since converter needs a top cover to work best.) ps... would have been nice to see the metal under each and see if anything stopped the rust at all. ( example the converter actually converted the rust or not ) Or maybe next time the different rust converters out there compared.

[@69novaguy91]

Hey Chaos Garage was reading comments below and see your using POR15 ......well I did a little experiment with that paint and its all in the name POR stands for paint over rust .....it works well sticking to rusted metals and you paint it right over the rust but I found out.... NOT to paint it on new metal as it wont stick at all to new metal ..... if you follow the instructions on how to prep the rusted metal on can it works well but if you paint it on newer clean metal it just peals right off .....Hope if you didn't know this that it will help in your decisions on where to use POR15

[@ChaosGarage]

+69 NovaGuy interesting. I did read that. I like to research the crap out of stuff and decided to use it on the firebird's floor pan. I had just replaced the passenger side pan so it was nice and shiny. I took some purple power and a pressure washer to the whole inside of the car, sprayed it down with their metal prep etching stuff per their directions and washed it off again. Then I used air to completely dry it off before painting the whole floor pan with POR15. I gotta say even though the car has been sitting in the shop for months both driver and passenger side still look great (apart from the months of dust). Thanks for the info, I will definately think twice before skipping the metal prep with new metal!

[@69novaguy91]

a good way to check if it stuck to metal is by blowing high pressure air on it from different angles ....that's how I found it didn't work on the new metal for me .... yes hope with using the metal prep it made her stick for ya

[@ChaosGarage]

+69 NovaGuy oh sweet I'll remember that! Thanks!

[@j.n.hervey8524]

I have reformer in one can and paint + primer in another. Is it advised to use the second can on top of the first or should I just use the primer + paint? BTW, this is for a rust stain on the top of a car.

[@ChaosGarage]

You can check out the 1 year results video for this if you would like but in a nutshell, rust reformer didn't do any better than primer. So I'd say go with primer + paint.

[@michaelmuramoto7274]

Primers are not designed to be top coats. They are designed to promote better adhesion of the top coat to the substrate. As such many primers are porous so the top coat can get a good bite into it. A better test would have been with the primers receiving a white top coat of paint. Just Saying.

[@ChaosGarage]

I agree that would be a good test and appreciate your feedback. As I said in the video, there are so many ways to "properly" paint something and it would be impossible to do it all in one video. That being said, I was forced to narrow the scope and purpose of the test. Thanks for watching and commenting!!

[@trickedouttech321]

Rust Reformer is designed to be primed and painted after the Reformer has converted the rust for 24 hours.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

I use the Reformer on a piece of rusty metal and am still driving it. So far, so good. I think it's good stuff. My rusty metal sits in the drive. It's the 89 Taco. I'm going to lay the REAL preventative to it's hide before long. O I L . I use the REformer on the body but oil on everything else. But that's just me. I need some metal but haven't gotten the nerve up to gomm up the body worse. A black hole is not that noticeable over a bad body job to me. Thanks Chaotics.

[@ChaosGarage]

Nice...I've never used oil but I've seen a lot of people mention it since I made these videos. How good a job you do is all relative to how much you care + laziness. I often opt of the laziness.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

A kindred spirit! VERY good!

[@ChaosGarage]

Cheap and easy...so should everything be in life!

[@lewiemcneely9143]

With some fun thrown in and the end result you ought to be able to smile at. Or maybe run from!

[@ChaosGarage]

I'll take that! Just remember fire can cover up most mistakes...

[@rachellehermanson4174]

Interesting. I am just now working on my gremlin Rust is like a cancer. What is your opinion on Ospho?

[@ChaosGarage]

Never heard of Ospho but the phosphoric acid is what does the voodoo. Looks like it would work just fine.

[@rachellehermanson4174]

@@ChaosGarage I bought a gallon of Ospho- green stuff. This old guy here restores cars and swears by it. I am just now sanding my gremmie down and prepping for paint. Has some bad rust on door and wheel wells. I found this video interesting because I did debate putting some enamel on it.

[@JohnAvantiBK]

New supporter here 👍

[@ChaosGarage]

Always welcome new supporters! :D Thanks!

[@sweetsketch3]

How would rust remover do on bare metal as opposed to acid etching primer, rust reformer is whole lot cheaper than etching primer

[@michelangelokowalski]

I'm going to do a rust reformer then a primer sealer then enamel....its for under a vinyl top..thoughts..

[@ChaosGarage]

Sounds good to me. The more time you spend on prep will help the most. Good luck!

[@sabatham]

Thanks so much for doing this video. I am trying to fix up my in-laws old stroller from the 40s to use with my youngest... and I hope to get it done in the next 10 days in time for their 50th anniversary as I want to use it as a fun little display if I can get it looking good. However, there is a lot of rust wherever the paint has scraped or chipped, and I am not wanting to disassemble the entire thing as it is all rivets and I have no experience working with them. I wanted to use vinegar to remove rust, but how do you soak an entire stroller in that? Anyway, I have cleaned it and got a toothbrush sized metal brush that I aim to use on the rust, and this has helped me in figuring out what to do for painting. Whether I bother spending extra on the can or Rust Reformer or not. I am thinking it might work better if you use the primer and the paint over it, right?

[@ChaosGarage]

You're welcome! Sounds like you're on the right track with the brush. Primer then paint should last much longer.

[@carolinamanjr1385]

yeah you have to get rid of the rust before priming I learn that the hard way

[@ChaosGarage]

+Carolina Man yup no easy way around it. I am curious how the POR-15 i used on the firebird last year will hold up. So far it still looks great but is protected in the shop by a layer of dust. ☹

[@carolinamanjr1385]

Don't let the sun or uv hit it or it will fade and start flaking off. A lot of guys have been using Rhino liner and SPI Epoxy

[@ChaosGarage]

Yeah I did a lot of research on it before deciding to go with it. So far I've only done the floor pans which are going to be covered with carpet and if the sun sees the under side of my car then I messed up bad and likely need an ambulance!!

[@mostlymoparih5682]

Keep the shiny side up and the rubber side down. Happy motoring.

[@ChaosGarage]

+MostlymoparIH that's the plan anyway!

[@nomercyatall1668]

Enamel it is .....much thx

[@ChaosGarage]

+Nomercy Atall you're welcome, glad it helps!

[@mrmidnight32]

Anyone know the difference between the regular etch and the 2 in 1 etche cans?

[@hectorcoronel619]

Aren't you supposed to put paint on rust reformer?

[@ChaosGarage]

It is recommended but not required.

[@kingfisher2857]

1.25 speed is crucial 😂😂

[@motoCrossRider211]

should I use Fluid Film, then primer then enamel on top of the rusty surface after preped (sanded/grinded down) or just the Primer then Enamel?

[@ChaosGarage]

I've never heard of Fluid Film but you should be ok with primer and enamel.

[@motoCrossRider211]

@@ChaosGarage its like a oil based film that never dries supposively. i just dont want to use anything that will trap moisture cause the rust on my truck is pretty bad as it is.

[@Align700nitro]

What ever goes on top of fluid film are wasted....

[@geraldswain3259]

Could have got to the point in 1thrd ,the time.

[@ClintonC1991]

Shhhh. Don't be a dick your whole life.

[@ericvalverde5945]

I don't get it. This test makes no sense. Everything should have been topcoated to get a true result of how the products work and hold up.

[@Ford679]

I have used the rust reformer and did not like it I think the enamel is better and looks better to

[@ChaosGarage]

Agreed

[@evgenysushko6692]

Are t you suppose to send rust performer after you apply it ?

[@factsdontcareaboutfeelings9384]

I never have. I start out with a wire wheel or brush ( wheel makes it easier and faster) I just put the converter on then the sandable filler primer, ( that i might sand depending on the piece) then i paint it followed by the 2000 clearcoat. Normally that makes the metal last for a very long time without rusting. If you get sandable rust converter then you can sand that before the primer. Normally i dont sand it because the primer fills in a lot of the littler pits.

[@ChaosGarage]

I don't recall it calling for sanding afterwards. I'm sure you could get away with a light sanding if needed to smooth out the surface. someone someone's advice sounds solid to me.

[@ct4709]

These primer type of products require a top coat. Testing these without it is a waist of time..

[@treyezell36]

sent by Carolina Man & had to sub love you content take care #599

[@ChaosGarage]

Awesome! Thanks! Subbed to you as well...will definitely check it out!

[@buzzsah]

Good test RR stinks.

[@ChaosGarage]

Thanks, I hope it helps many people. It also stinks planning a video a year ahead of time haha Thanks for checking it out!

[@mikec9046]

Too much TALKING

[@skunkhome]

Too much talk