Making Motorcycle Battery Cables - Revival Cycles Tech Talk

[@Louise-zs9rl]

So glad you advised to use the propane cylinder instead of a soldering iron. Instead I crimped a terminal to a 12G cable to connect a controller to a vertex sealed AGM battery which will charge from a solar panel. I will charge low current gadgets from it, such as my phone and usb lights and a blood glucose machine!

[@wpanik]

Thanks so much for this! Currently working on an airbox delete for my 2016 Thruxton and have to relocate the battery. Super helpful!

[@Ridesfar]

Nice video and for making it much easier to find the cable and terminals I need.

[@robertwoods2505]

Great job and thank you for sharing it.

[@MotoErgoSum]

One more thing I think I'll go ahead and do while I'm redoing my Speed Triple's wiring harness. The stock cables were way too stiff.

[@stevieg7403]

That was a sweet demonstration

[@flyingdutchman4you]

Excellent demonstration! Thnx.

[@666litium]

Nice! this will help a lot making a good work =)

[@donle2511]

Can it work on 2 kw starter and 300 amps battery ? Thank you

[@ardoughman1323]

Size of wire for the battery? and the terminal size also pls...thanks a lot the video

[@RevivalCycles]

We use 6 AWG wire and depending on the battery we use either 1/4" or 5/16" terminals. Here's a link for that very kit... revivalcycles.com/collections/motorcycle-batteries-electrical/products/diy-battery-cable-kit-revival-cycles-signature-parts

[@Mogman150]

Everything I have read says that a correctly formed crimp fitting will transfer more current and also keep the ends from becoming stiff from the solder and the possibility of cable fatigue. Is this not correct? Thanks,

[@RevivalCycles]

Here are the opening lines of the first two results from my online search. 1. Crimping offers stronger, more reliable connections than soldering. 2. Crimp vs. Solder Solder Method Performed properly, it is one of the most reliable connections and can be used on cable with solid or stranded center conductors. This is an argument older than Coke vs Pepsi and for everything you read that states one way is better than the other you can easily find contradictory statements. I don't know which is most right. What I think is most important is that you pick a side and learn to do it really well. Both connections perform equally well as it pertains to Motorcycle electrics so long as you do them correctly. While 40 year old Hondas have a lot of electrical issues these days I have never found the source of a problem to be one of their soldered wires or terminals. We like soldering in many but not necessarily all situations. Properly soldering a battery cable terminal effectively is a lot easier than crimping one I can't recall a single scene where a bike we built any time in the last ten years returned due to a failed solder connection.

[@Mogman150]

@@RevivalCycles So for years, I've done the solder w/heat shrink. Then, after much reading, thought I was all washed up and started using hydraulic crimpers. Now, I'm unsure. 😊

[@kottilrammohan304]

Hello , I have a 1988 BMW K75S where the wires from the alternator to the battery terminal and the ground cable needs to be replaced because of rodent damage. As you know, at the alternator there are two wires, the B+ terminal, which is a large quick disconnect male. and the D+ terminal which is probably the ground ( a blue wire, not sure where it goes). It is impossible to find the plastic adapter to house these wires into a new set of wires. How can I fabricate a cable for the B+ terminal that has a battery adapter at one end and a spade connector to fit the alternator at the other end? I have tried everywhere and no one seems to be able to help me! I hope you have an answer for me. I can send pictures if you are not familiar with the alternator terminals in this bike. Appreciate all your help and really enjoyed your video.

[@josecenteno1454]

Hi, may i extend the cables of the battery in order to place it where i can have more access to it? Is it convenient?

[@dsmasynergy]

Great vid! thx

[@johnny1556]

I just ran into your video looking up information on how to jump start your motorcycle. I like to ask you a question? Can that positive wire be hooked up to your battery underneath your seat and put it in the side cover with a cap. So it doesn't touch any metal so when you need to jump start your bike without taking off the seat. You hook up your positive jumping cable to that wire and the negative to a non painted surface.

[@RevivalCycles]

Hypothetically you could to that but I would very cautious about dangling a loose positive pable cap or no cap. A safer way would be to use an SAE quick connect harness and pick up a lithium jump pack. This would also make it more convenient to hook up a trickle charger and avoid the need for jump starting altogether. shop.revivalcycles.com/quick-disconnect-battery-harness-18/ shop.revivalcycles.com/antigravity-micro-start-xp1-pps/

[@godgrant123]

so this is okay for every bike? I don't need to worry about watts and volt ect? I am trying to replace my motorcycle wire from battery to alternator

[@protossid]

This is the best part 4:25

[@dilligaf2386]

Great video. So what's the size of the cable for my 50cc moped I've got to change them u think it's 6mm cable at the moment I've got some nice fine strand 8mm can I use this even though it's a bit over speck.? That looks like 8mm your using there.

[@RevivalCycles]

I;m not really sure for a little 50cc moped but the cable we use and sell is 6awg which is closer to 16mm2

[@dilligaf2386]

@@RevivalCycles that sounds quite big. I suppose if I use bigger than what was on it before it will be ok. Belt and braces as they say. Thanx buddy.

[@jrw9992]

Is it good practice to add in a 30amp fuse to the positive cable? If so, what is the best way of doing this? Thank you for the helpful videos.

[@RevivalCycles]

Generally there's not a fuse on the circuit from the battery to starter solenoid on to the starter motor. This would require a special fuse holder to work with such a thick cable. There is a main fuse that sits between the Regulator/Rectifier and battery and often this is a 30 amp but depending on the bike it could be lower. Check out the wire diagrams on our tech articles page for more clarification. -Berry

[@jrw9992]

Revival Cycles thanks Berry, I am installing an m-unit on my BMW R100 and have upgrades the reg/reg and coil but currently have no fuse that I’m aware of. I have reconditioned the original starter and wondered if you thought it would be good to put a fuse somewhere and if so where?? Thanks again 🇬🇧🇬🇧⚡️⚡️👍👍

[@diablo-km2ot]

what gauge cable are those. thanks

[@RevivalCycles]

We use and sell 6awg for the cables from the battery to the starter and main ground.

[@diablo-km2ot]

@@RevivalCycles thank you great video

[@andrewspencer2636]

Where do the baytery cables start off frm on a 2010 vagas

[@RevivalCycles]

I've never worked on one before so I'm not really sure but probably from the battery.

[@MsHarper28]

always great vids

[@AgusSalim-fc2hv]

Mas ukuran brpa kabel aki nya

[@alessandroolsen9283]

Hey guys, love your products and your talks. A few quick questions: 1) how long is each cable? 2) What gauge wire? 3) What size are the holes in the two different ring terminals? Thanks so much! - Alex (GS500 custom build)

[@RevivalCycles]

+Alessandro Olsen check out the listing on our webstore under the specs tab for all the details revivalcycles.com/collections/for-your-ride-bestsellers/products/diy-battery-cable-kit-revival-cycles-signature-parts

[@takeabow2774]

Hi, i am planning on hiding the battery where the main bike stand was. Right Behind/under neath the main frame where the swingarm hits. My munit and other electrical parts would sit in an under seat electronics tray. Therefore i would have to run the cable alongside the frame to the electronics tray. This would make the cable significantly longer than the original one. Is there any problem with this, overheating f.e. hence the resistance of the cable is greater due to being longer?

[@RevivalCycles]

You are correct that increased cable length increases resistance, and that is definitely something to keep in mind. That said, in the example of battery cables and motorcycles, the change in length won't cause a problem. We actually tested this on our Ducati Odioso project, the battery is in the side car but the solenoid is up under the tank, which meant the battery cables are close to 5 feet long, and that works flawlessly.

[@susannawalker4790]

No flux required when you solder? Is it a special kind of solder?

[@RevivalCycles]

Yes it is, the solder we include in the kit has flux in the core. This way as it melts it cleans the joint.

[@jasonhenry7105]

What gauge is the negative cable?

[@RevivalCycles]

They are both 6 gauge, the black that we used to offer had a thinner sheathing than the red but we have since adopted the same dual layer sheath for both colors.

[@timfreese5146]

I like this

[@MultiArrie]

Iits a way to make battery cables, the better way is to crimp most electricians are happy to help providing tool and materials in exchange of a case of beer, KTM is using Klauke crimping tools and lugs exactly the same i have in my electricians toolbox.

[@RevivalCycles]

This is true that crimping is the conventional way to do it, but most people don't have access to the real crimping tools, and attempting to crimp these terminals without the right equipment is worse than soldering. Also, in the application of motorcycle battery cables crimping is not necessary, because the duty cycle is extremely low. This method works very well for the applications of starting a motorcycle engine, however this technique should NEVER be used when working with voltage over 24V or sustained current flow above 60 amps. Based on my research solder actually gives a lower voltage drop (better conduction) than crimping, but it is not used in industrial or EV application due to the mechanical failure modes caused by thermal cycling and cracking. In the application of a conventional motorcycle the thermal stresses are negligible, and we have never seen or heard of a failure of any of our cables over the 10 years we have been building them this way.

[@jacobphillips3859]

Mine are fried

[@jimwilson8509]

you Failed to CRIMP b4 the solder job

[@RevivalCycles]

Criticism is welcome, but the most important part is WHY. Can you explain what purpose the crimp serves in an application like this? Hopefully everyone can learn something in the process. In our experience the solder creates a secure mechanical connection, as well as an efficient electrical connection. It is true that this technique is inappropriate for larger cables that carry high current and voltage (especially AC current), but for the purposes of electric starter motors on power sports equipment this method has been very effective for us. Also this technique will produce better results as compared with makeshift crimping in the hands of the average garage builder.

[@jimwilson8509]

as i remember your video about battery connectors DIDN'T show at all to CRIMP the connector mechanically to the connector then soldering.

[@RevivalCycles]

Correct, there is no crimp stage in this video, because I cannot identify a technical need for it, and most people do not have the correct tools or equipment to properly crimp a 6 gauge wire. The mechanical strength of the solder has been more than adequate for this application. Again, what purpose does the crimp serve? What happens if the joint isn't crimped?

[@q10115]

Crimping would provide a mechanical hold, and flatten the copper strands across the terminal interior for more surface contact. However, if uncrimped but soldered (with sufficient heat), the solder should melt enough into the inner strands and may conduct just as well. The test is in how well the engine cranks compared to a stock cable and a crimped unsoldered cable.

[@slewfoot6608]

What are the gauges? And what abt those tabbed terminal connecters like my bike has?

[@RevivalCycles]

6 AWG