1989 vogue se episode 1 - Nearside / LH body resto - Profanity etc

[@ukmud6218]

Would you ever do a welding tutorial, yes the Internet is full of welding stuff but you have the right way of explaining things

[@churchhouseclassics]

will do

[@Chris-uu3cp]

“chunktion” should be a word! It would absolutely be applicable to many situations!

[@machiningbasics1729]

Very interesting as ever

[@lucianyeandle447]

Great !

[@gerardmccarthy2432]

IMO best advise is inner and outer sills. patch to new sills and everything is square and easy to put back together......the spoil the ship for a haperth of tar springs to mind.

[@churchhouseclassics]

In this case I agree, just as much effort to repair the existing sill as replace it outright. Not always the most economical approach though.

[@jenshaga4256]

Great video! I am currently doing the exact same job on my '81 four door. I fitted the Froggatts sill kit (inner and outer sills), which worked very well. I first welded in the outer sill (I managed to slide it in from the side), before offering up the inner sill which I welded to the new body mount brackets fitted in place beforehand. It all aligned perfectly (this time at least). With the Froggatts inner sill I needed to mark and drill holes for the seat frame bolts. On your recommendation I welded in a piece of L section steel bar between the A pillar and the B pillar before removing the old sills (worked a treat!). Lastly, I stitch welded the inner and outer sills together from underneath the car. I guess there are multiple procedures for fitting new sills on RRCs so looking forward to seeing your method in the next video! Now working on fitting the Froggatts inner wing (exact same unit you are using). As you show in the video the horizontal lip for the bulkhead is too long and, at least in my case, makes the rear portion of the inner wing interfacing the bulkhead protrude somewhat from the bulkhead surface when all other fixings are in place. Hope for a better fit once the lip is cut down. Is very interested in your solution for correctly fitting this component! Next episode. please! Cheers

[@churchhouseclassics]

I did the sill yesterday, you will see in a future episode but found that by welding inner / outer and body mounts etc all in place first it does fit. I little flexibility in the b-post helped. Now I need to check alignment of b-post before welding it in.

[@petershepherd6889]

Go down the route of replacing inner and outer sills.Patching only promotes corrosion in the sill where the welds are.

[@churchhouseclassics]

Patching over rust is a world different from letting in new steel and cutting all the rot out. Even when welding a complete new sill into place I am introducing traps when moisture could start rot. On this car I could have followed the splice approach but after discussion with the customer decided that replacing the sill outright would take about the same time. 👍🍻

[@captainhookrecovery5580]

Hope my Vouge is not that bad..... We shall see after my LWT is finished....

[@churchhouseclassics]

I could have repaired this sill in site, but for roughly the same effort I could replace it with new. Customer chose new. LSE sills were in far better shape, especially on the floor / top section - which is the bit that killed these ones. Damp carpet underlay and what I think might have been a trip through some salty water didn't help

[@churchhouseclassics]

I could have repaired this sill in site, but for roughly the same effort I could replace it with new. Customer chose new. LSE sills were in far better shape, especially on the floor / top section - which is the bit that killed these ones. Damp carpet underlay and what I think might have been a trip through some salty water didn't help

[@daler2577]

The last Vouge SE you dealt with which I think was Aegean Blue... also had engine running problems.... as did my Vogue SE....(Niagara Grey), and I have every confidence you'll sort this one out as well...

[@churchhouseclassics]

I need to remove the contemporary alarm system as I think it is interfering. Back to factory first and then swap out components with my 3.9 Vogue to test

[@jagvette1]

don't ferk around replace inner and outer, you know it makes sense

[@nigelbarton8350]

Tempted to say you are a glutton for punishment, here you go again…. The “air-con radiator thingy” is the condenser, the evaporator hides in the HVAC box 😉

[@machiningbasics1729]

A lot of modern under seals are shite ! I spent 2 weeks under my disco 2 removing flakey old shite with a needle gun before replacing it with proper red oxide and paint

[@churchhouseclassics]

When you think that the average life of a car is less than 10 years, then you will find that everything is built for that approach. These cars that I am working on now are 30-50 years old. But yes I do not like a lot of these factory body sealers, Land Rover especially rot under the body seam seal - what the heck!

[@Horsleyclassics]

Evaporator (front bit), condenser (bit in dash), filter/dryer & compressor 😊

[@jagvette1]

Evaporator in car, condenser in front of radiator.