Ridgid Generator Stalling When Hot - Vapor Lock In a Gravity Feed Fuel System?

[@tomj7461]

These units were known for vapor lock problems back in 2012, the year of Superstorm Sandy. I think the final fix was to reroute the fuel line, and replace the fuel filter. Home Depot was taking them back for the "field change". Incredible troubleshooting, BTW. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z3O9pHqrZaqBqrc

[@jcondon1]

Thanks. That is also a good video you linked to. Thought rerouting the fuel line would have fixed it in my case. But even with the line moved and cap off still not good. I would image if I filled that tank all the way it would have helped. Hard to believe this thing was mass produced with such an issue.

[@johncourtneidge]

@@jcondon1 yes!

[@jeffreysmith2416]

Received the same exact free generator from my buddies buddy. It sat under his deck for years. He said it never ran correctly. The tank was also rusted. I cleaned and soaked the gas tank. New carb and added new fuel lines and the fuel pump just the way James did it. Once I got it all back together she fired right up! Ran it for hours without issue. Thanks James! 🛠

[@jacrispy8802]

You and Andrew camerata are the only people who can make hour long videos that I watch the whole thing

[@jcondon1]

Lol, thanks.

[@MrSmitty6969]

I AGREE, I AM NOW HOOKED ON BOTH CHANNELS !!!!! SMITTY

[@georgelauby4383]

I would add Eric O at South Main Auto to that list.

[@billgill8924]

Don't forget Scotty Kilmer.

[@jacrispy8802]

@@billgill8924 I can’t stand him

[@philthayer4087]

I have one of these gens bought 6 years ago, I don't think its temperature induced vapor lock. I noticed mine would stall out whenever tank got down about 1/3 full. I made 2" standoffs for the tank and solved the problem. Your solution is more elegant. Great video's!

[@dougthomasmusic]

What’s a 2” stand-off? Thanks.

[@brunomahle1618]

@@dougthomasmusic raising the tank higher

[@dougpeters6058]

I just bought a Coleman Maxa 5000 ER with the Briggs flathead. It is equipped with a pulse fuel pump. Vapor lock was the only reason I could come up with as to why have a fuel pump on a gravity fuel system. Waiting on the new carb to show up so I can test the generator. Thanks for your videos. You’ve given me the confidence to start fixing up neglected generators and make them useful again.

[@ALASKA-HOME]

I enjoy your show a lot. I think it is the best small engine show that I've seen. Your analytical approach is very good and I have learned a lot about the electronics from watching. The use of a torque wrench on all bolts is very good. Last year, I found out just how important clean male and female threads were to an accurate torque reading (also well lubed). I had to take a twin cylinder 500cc Rotax motor apart 3 times before I figured it out. Your closing says "I hope this helps" is a great thought. In that vein, I offer these ideas: First always check the plug to see what it says. If I take off the head, I always refinish the cylinder by hand with 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper. It's a poor boy ring overhaul with most attention on the upper 2" of the piston. Just back and forth by hand until it looks or feels right. VALVES: I use my drill press to clean and refinish all valve stems, faces and tops. Why tops? So that I can use a wooden knob and hot melt glue to grind and polish the seats. I think that ground seats that are not polished don't last as long, who knows. I put a piece of 600 or 400 wet or dry face up to polish the valve face and down the seat. This is where the wooden knob really helps. When done with the valve, break the knob off. Hot melt glue is not that good. Most of all: follow your instincts, the more you use them the better they will be. These are things I wish someone had told me years ago, I hope they are a help to you. John Mielke in Alaska

[@jcondon1]

It does help, thanks. Like the drill press idea. Last time I put the valve in a vice to clean it up. Did not work very well.

[@larrykelly2838]

Doc., just now watched this video, what a problem child it was. Your persistance overcame the resistance the generator provided. Thanks, very good learning video.

[@dougthomasmusic]

James, I love your calm thoughtful and methodical approach. Your knowledge is impressive. I agree with so many others that I rarely watch videos this long but you keep my attention because one feels like they are hanging out with you and learning from the master. Anyone including James. Can unlapped valves run an engine and then cause a lack of intake fuel thus causing the inability to run or restart? I got a Kohler pressure washer from my buddy. It was well saturated with water in the crankcase and cylinder. Changed out the carb with a new one. Took it apart and then got it running. (Hard to start). Seemed to have good compression even under load of power washing. After using it on the house for about 25 minutes It started to act like gas was running out. So I shut it off, refilled. But now even more difficult to start and now won’t start at all. I’ve got a good spark and gas flow seems good to carburetor. Gas in bowl. Could it be the valves needing to be lapped to help suck gas on intake stroke? Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

[@probeteam9936]

Like Sherwood Maxwell said.. now that you have a fuel pump... you can use a paper filter instead of that crappy screen one. GREAT JOB... you really go above and beyond... excellent video... thank you for your time, cause I know it's a real pain in the butt to film while your working... thank you...

[@jcondon1]

Thanks. Also can run and external fuel tank.

[@TheNewenglandboys]

I'm seeing this 2 years after it was posted. I have that same generator. Purchased new from home depot in 2013. The issue you had was one that some of those generators had. On top of the tank there is a black vent that wasn't venting properly. Replace that vent and your problem would be solved. You did a great job trying to deduce the issue but, no insult intended, I had to laugh just a little thinking how many people would Frankenstein their generator with that issue. That said, cleaning the jets was a good idea. I've had to do it to mine. But the top vent was most likely the cause of the vapor lock. Mine is now 11 years old. This year I broke the recoil rope and replaced it. Bought a new battery, replaced the spark plug and fuel filter, and changed the oil in preparation for this coming winter. I mix sea foam in my gas can before I add it to the tank. It's still running like a champ. Kudos on a great video and all the effort.

[@NateTheGreat98]

I have the same issue. Do you have a part number ? Is it the black elbow piece that goes in the tank on top of the tank?

[@TheNewenglandboys]

@@NateTheGreat98 well here’s what happened: Right after I commented about it being ready for another season, the stator in the motor went out. No idea why but the Rigid was finished. Kaput! And of course it was after replacing the recoil rope, the battery, changing the oil, spark plug, and fuel filter so all that effort was wasted when I thought I was doing a good thing. Shortly after I had to purchase a new generator. This time I got a generac but this one doesn’t have an electric start which is a bummer. For now both are in my shed until I decide what to do with the old rigid. Stuck with a new battery I can’t use. So that was a super disappointment. But as to your question, No I do not know that part number. Sorry.

[@glennk1931]

Excellent video.Your persistence did pay off. Taking mental notes just incase this might happen in the future.

[@robertfountain4856]

I really enjoyed your problem solving on this one. The installation of a pump is always my 'fix' in hot and sunny Australia. We don't have your winter & summer fuel differences here although we can purchase non Ethanol fuel from the pump. My original fix was to reroute the fuel line like you did but I was installing a heat/hot air shield to protect the line which bent over the top of the line leaving a 2" gap at the top for heat to escape. That worked most of the time but now installing a pump solved everything. Very enjoyable getting inside your head to hear your figuring. It's a shame we didn't hear what was edited out ... lol Just remember that we all like to see failures that lead to success so laugh at yourself and we will laugh with you. Learning is a great experience ... Thank you.

[@jcondon1]

Wish non ethanol fuel was available near me. The closest place is about 40 minutes away. I always try to keep the videos under an hour so I do make cuts, but try to keep the important stuff in. Glad you enjoyed this video. This generator was supposed to be an easy one.

[@robertfountain4856]

@@jcondon1I was expecting a part 2. So ... Part 1 could have dealt with the problems and finishing where it kept dying & Part 2 explaining what a vapour lock was and how to work around it. I laugh when I think of doing your repairs with with a hoard of armchair mechanics watching on. I hope you get a good laugh out of some of the comments. I do.

[@chairfarmer1511]

I just discovered this today while a N’oreaster is blazing outside and once again my MZ360 is stalling every 40 min to an hour . I’ve worked resetting the fuel line in the past and noticed it slipped down below the clamp holding the idle screw(?). I lifted it to the top of that clamp and it will stay on its own creating a smoother drop without any hills for the fuel line to climb from the tank to the carb. Based on the comment you made I also turned that idle screw outward as the motor seemed to be running straight out all the time. I’m going to have to get a tachometer for it. Great vid on a stormy day and I’m now subscribing.

[@hrdworkin7633]

Late arrival. Your solution pretty much put that gas line back where it was originally plumbed. Thanks and great video.

[@adamfletcher4262]

Most people would have given up but your persistence has payed off its definitely a common issue with fuel tanks of a similar lay out thos fuel pumps are just brilliant things for how simple they are good job ! Great video

[@trooper11c]

You my friend are a very good mechanic. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I don't even own this generator but I enjoy watching you troubleshoot problems and working through them.

[@davidduma7615]

Really enjoy how you share - thinking out loud - as you solve this problem. I don't have a machine like this but it was great to learn the relevant issues and solutions.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@danburch9989]

Brilliant troubleshooting skills! I don't have the Rigid generator but this video prompted me to check my B&S generator fuel lines. They're safe. The fuel lines don't come close to any hot or warm areas - closest is where it enters the carburetor. After watching your video about the fuel pump, I think I would look at having the pump draw fuel from a T-fitting closest to the carburetor and routing the output to a tap drilled into the tank so that it returns warm fuel directly back into the tank. Less plumbing work. The fuel wouldn't stay in the lines long enought to heat up to vapor. But I wouldn't have thought about the fuel pump idea if I hadn't watched your video. Recirculating fuel is similar to how fuel injected engines work - rarely, if ever have vapor lock.

[@riceball4u172]

Thanks for the video, I love how you do different diagnostic to trying to figure what's the problem.

[@drteknical6571]

Here in the South, we use lightly wrapped aluminum foil around fuel lines on anything that tries to vapor lock. Simple and it works. Your black fabric is absorbing some heat, aluminum foil reflects it. Appearance-wise, it may not be the best look, but the engine runs reliably, and that is the number one goal!

[@jcondon1]

Did not show it in the video, but did try aluminum foil and no better :(

[@drteknical6571]

@@jcondon1 Dang! That sure is one butt-ugly case of vapor lock!

[@josephschrader1935]

Incredible work James. The first thing I thought of when you deduced heat as the culprit was a heat shield suspended between the heat source(s) and the fuel line. Yeah, I know those things are only annoying but if you could fashion one correctly, it might reduce the amount of heat enough that vapor lock would not occur. In any case, the pulse pump works.

[@fevo69]

I've seen around 20 of your videos and I've learned a lot about generators that I didn't know before. I give maintenance to several generators and now I feel more prepared to continue doing it better. Thank you very much. Ramon from Miami, Fl.

[@jcondon1]

Glad to here that.

[@lazaromarino9200]

Greetings Ramon! Also a Miami but and this man is really talented

[@agtodorov]

Hello from Brazil! I just got a brand new generator tha has a Chonda engine with 98cc and it runs pretty well, but once you turn it of you simply cant turn it on again. No matter how hard you tried. Checked carb, spark, compression. Everythimg ok. In the end, it was valve adustment. Instead of .20 and .15 mm, the valves were misadjusted at .35 and .30 mm. That made all the difference. Now it can be turned on and off imediately. Love you videos!

[@rayduffy6172]

Wow! You are tenacious indeed . Great trouble shooting. I have a 10,000 Watt Ridgid/Subaru gen that has not had any problems and it is about 10 years old.

[@harrisonkatzz7090]

James ,I think remove the shrink from insulation to promote air flow thus cooling . This is the most work you have done on a perfect running engine. Thanks for the show .

[@marcheld]

Being the magician you are, I didn’t think you were ever frustrated by a machine - I’ll bet this one tops the list. 😮

[@bradmonrean2307]

Another awesome video James. I have a powermate 12,500 watt generator, powered by a Subaru 22 horse-power twin cylinder engine. The bottom of the gas tank is above the carburetor level, yet it has a fuel pump on it- - - - now I know why!

[@chasboomer2588]

Nice job James, I've worked this stuff for 50 plus years i love watching you work on these generators and small engine equipment. You make my day sometimes!!!😊😊

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@erichammel4926]

I have the same exact generator with the same problem, after several different failed attempts to keep the tank vent hose going to the breather box I decided to just run it down behind the plastic cover with a 1 way check valve has worked for well over 2 yrs. I use the generator to power are camper about 20 trips a yr 3-4 days at a time & the generator runs none stop. You my friend are very meticulous good job

[@jackpatteeuw9244]

As soon as you said "vapor lock", I knew the only solution would be a fuel pump ! I has working on a friends older 5000W Briggs generator with an L head engine. We determined the fuel pump was not working. I could not understand why it had a fuel pump when it was a short straight shot from the tank to the carb. Finally dawned on me "Vapor Lock !" Briggs discontinued their own fuel pump design (looks almost identical to the fuel pump in a Pulsa Jet carburetor) and the replacement looks identical to the one you used. You did a much "cleaner" install. Ours used a couple of zip ties. Old fuel pump part number was 692026. Rebuild kit for the old pump is 393397. Both are discontinued but you may find NOS.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

I did the same thing to my old Coleman 5K and ran into the same thing. Had to put the pump back on. If the old rectangular pump dies I'll put a new style round one on. So far, so good. And added electric start because that old 10 I/C had LOADS of compression!

[@stewartlove2397]

A truly great Engineer when it comes to fault fainding.

[@paulsullivan6392]

Knowledge, perseverance and eventually an elegant solution. Well done sir...well done.

[@kennethford7878]

2

[@somerandomguy3868]

You're always very thorough, but you really put some time into testing this one, I think if any of the other generators you've repaired and sold had issues you would have heard from your costumers, great job

[@jcondon1]

Thanks. It was many many hours. the engine started at 80 hours. My neighbot put about 20 on and I think I added another 8 or so testing. Only had one generator come back and that was just brushes that went bad two days after purchase by a contractor.

[@mintercms]

Great work on this one, most would have given up as in the case of most your videos!

[@DS-lg2jb]

Such a complicated diagnostic procedures but somehow you figured it out. I’m really impressed by your skills and knowledge. I’ve learned a lot from ya.

[@jcondon1]

Thank you! I thought this would be an easy one. Took many hours to solve.

[@mjg263]

Wow James, I’ve gotta hand it to you for hanging in there and getting to the bottom of the trouble! I don’t have one of these generators but I’ll just bet that all of the older models have the same issue. I wonder if the newer tank style will fit on this frame? Anyway, the pulse pump is a great solution. Only improvement you might possibly make is a grommet where the fuel line goes through the plastic housing since there’s a whole lotta shakin’ goin’ on!

[@MsDave64]

Wondering about that insulation. My North Star has an insulated section of fuel line near the Stator and the insulation used has a silver color metallic exterior that would reflect heat rather than a black one that would absorb heat, also the ends are open and loose allowing some ventilation. Maybe that would work.

[@waynebrundidge206]

Thanks for the info in this video. Was not expecting vapor lock. You gave me something to add to my bag of tricks.

[@wotknot1757]

Man oh man, I truly admire your persistence. You are a bulldog on these gen sets. I watched every minute without skipping, just waiting for you to work your magic. I'd have been ranting and raving, cussing and kicking. Well done James, kudo's.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks!

[@blasperez4378]

The gas line must always run down stream so air (vapor) will float back to the tank.

[@Hectorgutierrez]

James, Love your Channel. You are very methodical with your trouble shooting and problem solving. I think you have over designed your fix on this one though. I think a tee fitting installed in the highest part of the fuel line, above pull start housing, should be installed with the Tee branch routed to the fuel tank vent line. This would give the vapor bubbles a path upward to the vapor side of the tank instead of getting trapped in the fuel line. I would reinstall the jet in the crankcase vent line as it originally was. I have learned a lot about generators thanks to you and recently scored a Honda EX4500S that wasn’t making power. I used the drill trick to re-excite the generator and it works perfectly now! How about some Honda generator videos?

[@jcondon1]

Not many broken Honda's for sale. Would make for a boring video.

[@BobPegram]

@@jcondon1🙂🙂🙂 8-))

[@DustMite1937]

Great video and I like the way you explain things. I have a newer model of that same generator that I bought in April of 2015. I've never had a problem with it vapor locking. However, I used to use regular gas with Stabil in it and would run it about 15 min once a month . But, about 2 years ago I got distracted with family health issues and forgot to run it monthly. When I when to start it last July it would not start. My daughter and son in law were visiting and he took the carb off and I took it to a shop to get it cleaned. (I'm 84 and on oxygen so I don't do much of that kind of thing any more). I got the carb back after Brother in law left and I drained the tank, checked it with a boroscope and the tank looks great. Unfortunately, when he took the carb off, he also removed the governor arm from the governor fork. I found a downloadable service manual for the MZ360 that said to adjust the governor, turn the governor arm as far as possible clockwise and then turn the governor fork as far as it will go clockwise and tighten the governor arm bolt. I did that and the engine started and ran at idle well, BUT the generator was only putting out about 104 volts at 48 hertz. I tried tweaking the governor fork slightly, but then the generator was running about 140 volts at 85 hertz. I kept trying to tweak it, but it is so sensitive that after 2 hours I gave up and quit. Is there a better way to change the idle speed than trying to tweak the governor? I haven't even tried to run it under load yet. Any help appreciated!

[@jcondon1]

You do not want to use the governor for setting the engine speed. Your description of how to adjust the governor seems correct. I would say the first time you adjusted it, you did it the right way. There is a spring connected to the governor arm. When the engine is off, that spring holds the throttle plate in full open throttle. The governors job is to oppose the force of the spring and close the throttle plate. The faster the engine runs the more force the governor pushes against that spring to close the throttle plate until an equilibrium is reached. I would reset the governor again and get it back to the 48 hertz. To increase the speed you would have to increase the tension on that large spring. One end of the spring is connected to the governor arm and the other end to a bracket on top of the engine with a Philips screw that can be turned clockwise to increase the spring tension and the resulting engine speed. Here is a playlist with a couple videos where I adjusted the governor that might help. kzbin.info/aero/PLoj6DvbhMTzuSEHSTUefe2QPXlQKMDRNV

[@DustMite1937]

@@jcondon1 thanks. That screw adjustment has very little effect. It's kind of a sloppy fit when the engine is off. I think it got stretched when he took the carb out. I'll see if I can order one. I wouldn't try to buy local because I have no idea how long it's supposed to be. Thanks a million for the quick response! Happy new year.

[@nederlandhiker2]

Very interesting vid. Good job troubleshooting and finding a workable solution. Thanks for sharing.

[@jerrybootneck1736]

I was screaming it's the fuel filler cap but you soon shut me up lol I was then thinking couldn't you have made up a heat shield in metal to route the fuel line but I guess it would reduce airflow to the generator. Excellent video and you have so much patients that most of us would have given up.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks! There were a few more options that may have worked without resorting to a fuel pump. But was curious if a pulse pump would work they way I connected it.

[@charlesstephens3660]

James,you need a sand blast cabinet but your videos are VERY informative.

[@donfonta9816]

Great diagnostician and persistence. Thank you !

[@robertpeters9438]

If you have a bubble in the filter, it can cause issues in heat. I always use a clear filter for this reason. It helps to have a large enough fuel line for the bubble to rise to the tank.

[@ablelock]

Good diagnosis James, I really enjoy your videos. I think you’re thorough on what you do when I work on the engines and stuff over the years. I do a lot of the same testing that you did and I noticed that you have a lot of the same handtools that I used I used to work in a local lawn and garden, engine shop, but that one has since closed and gone away. I’m also a locksmith and I’ve done that for quite a few years as well. Still enjoy the small engine stuff and wouldn’t work on the equipment. Any chance I get.

[@lewiemcneely9143]

I had 2 Kawasakis, a 12 horse and a 6, both on mowers and both vapor locked. I wrapped the lines with aluminum tape and that helped but the best thing was to run non-ethanol gas. The tape killed the vapor-lock but the non-ethanol fuel got them running a lot better. Good job on that one but those pumps will pull fuel a long ways from a tank under the seat to a carb seat level or higher in the front end. GBWYou!

[@raymondj8768]

you are one hell of a diagnostic man great job!!! im a mechanic but ive learned a bunch about gensets from you thanks buddy !!!

[@russelllmetcalf]

Have a pressure washer with a vanguard engine that will run and quit when warm. If I take the tank loose and raise it 6” above the frame, it runs fine. It must be vapor locking just like this. I’ll try rerouting it first. I think the tank is holding all the engine heat in and vapor locking the fuel just like this. Tried a 12 volt electric pump and same result. Great video. I like how you approach it problem systematically and stick with it until it’s solved. Well done.

[@jcondon1]

Vapor lock can be difficult to solve. Would recommend clear fuel lines. It helps to see what is going on.

[@w2dmw]

Some of those shut off valves come with a neoprene/nylon grommet for the tight fit you need. Ebay has all those valves cheap...

[@MrRobsStuff]

Hi James, I discovered your channel a few days ago and have been absolutely addicted ever since. You have great content; wonderful quality of editing and I love your approach on small engine repairs and trouble shooting. Vapor Lock Issue - Someone else commented that replacing the tank vent valve (check valve) solved the problem. Your issue could also be the tank cap. The EGR pulse line T’s (restricted) to pressurize the tank - acting as a fuel pump. I agree this is a terrible design. I like your ingenuity in solving the problem. I also liked someone else’s solution (in the comments) of recirculating the fuel back to the tank to keep a cool fuel flow. High Voltage on 12v circuit - Did you address this issue and I missed it…?

[@viewsandreviews180]

I really appreciate you posting this video. I’ve got a riding lawn mower that does the same thing. This seems to be what I need to do.

[@leandrolaporta2196]

Wow I didn't knew about vapor lock, great info, worth every minute, thank you

[@Radar8717]

Plastic wire loom works well as a heat shield. When I get small engines like that I auto zone sells a clear uni filter that has the inlet and outlet on the top and all of the garbage settles in the bottom of the filter bowl and you can see fuel, water or stiment.

[@tedmann498]

Only thing I would do differently is to put grommet for the fuel line. See it vibrate while running

[@cyrusbrooks4504]

This was so good of a video I accidentally watched the whole thang I did not realize how long it was

[@giggiddy]

It ran for 80 hours with the initial physical setup. So although I believe the additional reroute of the hose and addition of the pump works well, I still don't see what the original gravity feed issue was. Great video!

[@jcondon1]

Could have been a few things. The only time it was used after was late October and much cooler. Also the original owner was running a heavy load so the engine was cooling better and the fuel flowing faster through the lines so not as much time to heat up. Not really sure.

[@benlyons7752]

Excellent figuring that out. I learned a lot. Great job!!!

[@John-cn8jv]

I didn't notice the video was too long. Was to engaged in the content. In the Great White North, water pipes are insulated with various thick insulation so pipes running near exterior walls don't freeze. Maybe wrapping pipe insulation in hot areas would work? Very intrigued by your diagnostic skills. Thanks James

[@Roy_Tellason]

Interesting that near the end you show a different tank setup with the fuel outlet near the front. I'd been wondering since just shortly before that whether it would be possible to turn that tank around...

[@wssides]

Winter blend was my first thought. Used to get a lot of tow calls the first hot day in March or April up here in Canada.

[@connormc18]

These videos are so satisfying to me. Maybe it’s the attention to detail? But love them!

[@williamdavis922]

Those Yamaha powered Ridgig generators are notorious for vapor locking, I actually think there was a recall on them for certain model #s

[@jcondon1]

Would not surprise me given the issues I had.

[@lestergillis8171]

My 1999 Dyna/Winco used to vapor lock. I re-routed the fuel line around the opposite side of the engiine. Fuel line was originally run around the same side as exhaust and discharge air from engiine fan. As soon as I re routed the fuel line, vapor locking quit.

[@dwightpierce1891]

the valsi 7500 watt uses this same fuel pump design. enjoyed and learned from your video. Thanks for sharing and I have have vapor lock problems. that clear tubing is a genius idea

[@pauleastend4706]

Don't get on yourself for how long a video runs.....we can pause and go back whenever we want.....I found this video very informing James. I just bought a fairly new home (built 2013) and the elderly couple wanted to be prepared so they had an electrician wire in a generator transfer switch and they bought a beauty Honda EU7000 IS......an amazing unit with only 3 hours on it, he never used it to back up the house but he did service it and run it for 1/2 hour in the spring and 1/2 hour in the fall the 3 years he had it. I researched it some, found that one guy in the desert of California in an extreme heat situation, (100 + F.).....he found that the fuel get's quite hot in the steel tank, he said it was actually boiling....yikes.....he found it some shade and it ran better after. He loved it.....your thoughts on my Honda EU7000IS ?

[@jcondon1]

The EU7000is is an excellent generator. I use the older EU6500is for my house. Have never had an issue with it in 15 years. Hope to upgrade to the EU7000is some day. Definitely run in the shade when possible when in that heat. Most air cooled engines on generators say the are rated for a max of 100 degrees. Over that and there will be problems.

[@pauleastend4706]

@@jcondon1 I live in Northern Ontario Canada, the hottest we get up here is the low 90's for a few days, not likely going to get the gas boiling up here.

[@Gersberms]

You are the most patient person! Amazing work. I've had similar issues on my 20 HP lawn mower, in the end I got rid of that silly red fuel filter and I put on of those transparent filters on where you can see the corrugated yellow filter through the housing. It solved my issues, the flow seemed better and I could see the gas through it. It always has a vapor bubble in it though, can't seem to avoid that. Part of the gasoline mixture just wants to be a gas!

[@williamdavis922]

I really appreciate watching you work. Your are very meticulous like myself. Its always a pleasure watching someone who takes pride in the work, and really thinks thing through. Excellent job as always sir!!

[@jcondon1]

Thanks. I sell everything I fix and to not just want to be a flipper, but try to do the right thing.

[@tubeDude48]

Thumbs-Up for ALL your efforts!

[@Jim-ie6uf]

Excellent, you tried everything. Good thinking on the pump, even better finding that “check valve “ jet thing.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks, glad it worked out or I would have had a 300 lb paper weight.

[@WACKO1123]

The wrap sleeve you placed around the fuel line isn't a heat shield, but rather an abrasion shield and by shrink tubing the ends kept whatever heat penetrated from escaping. Reflective foil wrap like used on automotive engines work much better. Secondly that small fuel filter oddly, was the only component you did not suspect. I always use the transparent pleated filters. They filter better and you can see if the is a flow problem. Premium or non ethanol infused fuel may have worked better too. Todays regular ethanol blends can boil at around 100 degrees Fahrenheit and Ethanol is about 78 F. I like your methodical approach to solving problems in your videos.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks. Was suspect of the ethanol fuel. Also changed the fuel filter 3 times. Never with a pleated one though. Those are only recommended for a fuel pump since gravity feed systems have very little pressure. I agree about that insulation. I did try foil at one point, but no change (edited out). Considered buying automotive foil tubing which would block about 90% of the heat transfer (so they say), but think the tank was also to blame. It was getting very hot from the engine and the sun. I think the fuel temp was well over 100 in the tank. Plus the fuel outlet was restrictive and the line long. Just a bad design.

[@ratvette6156]

I run my generator (not Rigid) for nearly a month after hurricane Michael. I run a combination of non-ethanol and 100LL Avgas. When I knew we were close to getting power back on I filled it with Avgas only. Just say no to ethanol if at all possible.

[@cliffmauck510]

Great video. I am always impressed with your troubleshooting process. Thanks again!

[@sofjanmustopoh7232]

That’s great way to check for “vapor lock “ Your troubleshooting skill is 👍

[@stephenbridges2791]

If you ever need to insulate a fuel line you can try an HVAC product called ArmorFlex. It is used to prevent condensation on HVAC lines. It will also work in reverse to prevent heat from entering a fuel line. Comes in several diameters. If you are ever in a real jam and need to prevent vapor lock; you can use a series of wooden clothespins clipped along the fuel line. This will work until you can get the machine into the shop for a proper fix. I've had to use the clothespin work-around many a time on a vehicle. No reason it won't work in a generator application. Glad to see you stick with it until you solved the problem.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks. I saw something about clothespins, but did not click in on the details. Will check it out.

[@IGOPU]

also wrap with aluminum foil then clip clothes pins ,the foil act like an insulator

[@jcondon1]

IGOPU tried that (without the clothespins), but edited out. Did not work for me.

[@wdobni]

excellent and persistent effort ....good logical approach .....it took a big investment in time......i suppose the one other fix that you could have used (if you were extremely cautious and careful) would be to close off the original tank fuel supply site in that low sump location and put a new fuel tank supply site at the opposite end of the tank just over the region of the carburetor area.......you'd lose a gallon of available fuel in the sump area but the fuel hose route would be shorter and cooler....but it might be impossible to safely put in a new fuel bung location if welding is necessary

[@mattyal9347]

At the hole you drilled on the instrument panel would be a good place for a grommet. Moisture and debris might happen

[@paladain55]

I've recorded my dryer. I'm not sure what the peak is but in a 60min cycle it will use 3.4kWh. This is the standard mid size whirpool that most people have had for the last 20 years.

[@danielwestergren903]

I am almost always waiting for a new video from you. I think I’ve seen the most of what you have released and some of them even up to four times. Good work! Wouldn’t it be possible to raise the tank a bit or lowering the engine to get the wanted slope? Let gravity do the work of replacing vapors with liquid gas. Simplicity is adding robustness. Murphy is always present in added stuff.

[@yasseralsilwe5850]

كيف اجد مهندس اساله عن حل لهذه المشكله لديا نفس هذا المولد الكهربائي وشكرا جزيلا

[@robertdavis6708]

YAMAHA POWER....what else does one need. Best engine power in the world. I know, I've owned three of them and never had a major problem. Start on the second pull every time.

[@1982seca1]

Hi James like your videos great work. have you ever done a propane /natural gas conversion. With one of the all in one units that uses a carb and a regulator attached. Would like to see one done. Thanks

[@darlenegraham6408]

I have that exact generator and have never had an issue. I only run ethanol free but still can't figure why mine hasn't had vapor lock. I'm glad to have seen this video though, if I start having the problem I'll know what to look at first.

[@jcondon1]

I think the issue was only with this Yamaha engine. There are several version including a Subaru version which are all fine. Am surprised to see this issue. I am in the North East US and most of the year not very hot. This generator would have had no chance in a warmer climate.

[@chrisginostravels7388]

Hi James, I find myself watching all your videos, And have learned a great deal, For which I would like to thank you very much. However I do have a question And hope you don't mind. The question is, You have put a few valve Over the status, Yesterday I was wondering if that was a fire hazard or not? Please don't think that I am questioning Your experience Or expertise I am just curious from a safety aspect for myself. Thanks for some very enlightening and interesting videos. Chris.

[@rogerevoy6191]

There are rubber grommets kits that would better shield the hose at the new hole you made through the sheet metal.

[@billiamc1969]

I constantly scan craiglist and other listings for bad generators and NEVER come across any for that low a price...seems folks have broken generators and still want several hundred for them here in Maryland.

[@jcondon1]

That is common even in my area. $100 is the bottom price for something with a blown engine or bad stator. Sometime people do list things like this, but they usually sell within an hour of the listing.

[@joewosilis259]

@@jcondon1 are you in ct? If so i may want to use you for small engine repairs.

[@hobtink]

You could install a section of clear fuel line to see if it is a fuel to the carb heat related vapor lock issue but you would have to analyze where to locate the section of clear fuel line that it was away from a major heat source.

[@tmbevtfd]

What would probably solve it without the fuel pump is to “T” a vent hose off that long flat section of fuel line back to the tank vent hose. Fuel will not rise up vertically but vapors will. What you have is similar to an air lock in an automobile cooling system. Need to give vapors a place to escape and be replaced by liquid fuel. Once the fuel moves more efficiently due to venting the less chance for more vapors to occur.

[@jcondon1]

Good idea. That would have worked.

[@scottl485]

Amazing this problem made it into production. The Video was not too long. I have learned much from your videos. Thanks for teaching.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@GNX157]

I would of liked to see how it ran under the original configuration but totally full of fuel, and kept full during the test. So saying there is always going to be some bubbles in the line, is the fact that the fuel outlet drops so low in relation to the carb mean that there’s very little fuel line gravity “pressure” to push the fuel thru the line when it gets too much bubbles in it, understanding that air can be compressed smaller, but fluid cannot? So the fuel just sits there while the bubbles absorb what little pressure the tank provides?

[@FB-tq5ln]

Brilliant fault findings. You went into every issue possible.

[@monadking2761]

I picked up a Gererac 5000 after the storm from Sandy and it would die after it sat. I found that I had a bad coil and after it got hot it would not restart. I wondered why it has a fuel pump for a 14-16 HP Briggs and it's only a 10HP. I rebuilt the carb replaced the coil and rebuilt the fuel pump wondering why it had a pump too. Now it makes sense. Thank you helping understand this. Please make a note that tank is right above as heat source and my tank is black which will hold more of the heat. Your very persistent and it looks like you got a great deal! Good luck with it.

[@jcondon1]

Thanks

[@alericjohansen6775]

I had never even HEARD of vapor lock, let alone would have known how to work around it and fix it. Man, that was a trip.

[@jcondon1]

This one was odd. Do not see it usually on generators.

[@andymann9861]

I know it’s late but what about enlarging the original valve hole and installing there where it will be far from the stator

[@158shm]

I’ve been running this generator in my season cottage, it has well over 2000 hrs on it and I believe this is a problem now after all this Time it has ran beautiful , 8 years , so thanks for the info , I’ve got a project 😂

[@colingraham1065]

Hi James just a thought but was the manufacturer using that 'vent return' pipe to mildly pressurise the tank as a workaround for this issue to increase the fuel flow?

[@jcondon1]

Yes, I believe so.

[@butangviber]

Everytime I watch one of your videos, i check local listings for Generators. LOL. Great video man! Keep up the great work.

[@jcondon1]

Cool, thanks

[@rudysaldivar4228]

Same😬

[@jimmywalker1421]

Xx x d xd

[@mikesbarn1858]

I have the same engine but I converted it to propane. Never ran gas through it. No problems.

[@Dingbat217]

Would it not help moving the pump a lot closer to the fuel tank outlet, like right next to it? That way there's very little fuel line for the fuel to boil in before the pressure is raised and thus the boiling point too? They made the outlet of the tank too low for the gravity feed to work reliably so it was bound to happen and sounds like they found out the hard way and redesigned the tank to fix the issue.

[@sherwoodmaxwell7509]

Awesome troubleshooting technique one thing I would do differently is the fuel filter is not my first choice it is only a screen put a quality filter on then it would be perfect

[@raymondgarafano8604]

Having an old 91 Harley I want to keep running, I have an inline filter b4 it goes to an S&S carb, the screen is o.k. but the pleated paper filter is pretty good and keeps a lot of foreign crap out of the carb. I put them on my two gens and the genz I service as well.

[@isettech]

Gasoline has a winter and summer formulation. If you have vapor lock, be sure to buy your fuel while summer blend is distributed. Winter blend vaporizes easier for better cold weather starts and performance. Keep in mind at what time you buy your fuel for your generators. www.gasbuddy.com/go/summer-blend-and-winter-blend-gasoline Find out the dates the refiners change between winter and summer blends. From the linked article: May 1: Fuel terminals are required to sell only summer gasoline on May 1, while gas stations have until June 1 to complete the changeover to summer gasoline. The switch from winter to summer gasoline is one of the major factors behind seasonal fuel price increases in May. September 15: The last day that EPA requires summer gasoline is September 15, but most refiners start producing it again in late August and will draw down remaining summer supply. In addition, gasoline demand falls as temperatures begin to seasonally drop, leading gas prices to fall throughout the fall. Starting Sept. 16, gas stations can again start filling up with the non-summer, or “winter” gasoline.

[@bonzokaye]

I was thinking about a shroud over the hot spot but u came up with the insulation, I admire your fortitude I gave up plenty of times lolz

[@jcondon1]

Thanks