Riding Mower Won't Turn Over, Starter Hangs Up, Turns Slowly, Won't Start EASY Diagnosis and Repair

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We diagnose and repair an issue with the starter not turning over the engine. It was brought in because they replaced the starter, battery and solenoid but were still having the issue of the mower sometimes not turning over.
One time it would start but the next time it would not spin. It would get stuck on the compression stroke and hang up there. We replace the solenoid because of the damage done to it by the customer repeatedly overworking the starter.
We find the ACTUAL problem from there and repair it so they do not have any further issues.
Adjust at .004" to .006" depending on your exact engine model
We love how well these Briggs & Stratton engine run!
Like and subscribe to see more helpful videos like this one! Save some money by doing it yourself!
#husqvarna #briggsandstratton #smallenginerepair #individualizedrepair #smallbusiness #diymaintenance
About Us:
My name is Martin. I have been repairing tools and small engines for almost 20 years. We operate a small engine repair shop in Illinois. We service / repair Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Kawasaki, John Deere, Cub Cadet, Toro Tecumseh, Loncin, Honda, Craftsman, Husqvarna, MTD, Troy Bilt, Simplicity, John Deere, Exmark, LCT, Generac and many more brands. We work on riding mowers, walk behind mowers, snow blowers, zero turns, generators, pressure washers and much more. We normally repair about 3,000 pieces of equipment every year and look at many more that are beyond an affordable repair. Hopefully our videos will save you some money and give you the information you need to work on your own equipment or figure out the issue at hand.
Disclaimer: Links included in the description are affiliate links. As an Amazon associate we earn from qualifying purchases. There will be no additional charge to you for purchasing here. We appreciate your support, which allows us to continue to provide original content!
Please be careful when repairing any piece of equipment and follow all possible safety measures. This video is for entertainment purposes only.

[@IndRepair]

Make sure the bolt holding the rocker arm pivot piece has not backed out. Most of these are set correctly at .005"

[@Juan-rj6kk]

Wiring magneto craftsman riding lawn mower

[@philipnorthfield]

Thank you investigating a Briggs V twin this afternoon with this exact issue 🤞

[@IndRepair]

@@philipnorthfield Awesome! Good luck, I think you will find the issue and have it fixed in no time!

[@justafig]

Thanks, I need to check this out on an engine.

[@davidsichi8570]

I NEVER comment on YT videos, so that should show you how helpful this was. Thank you so much for this. Saved me from going insane, I'd done exactly what you said, threw a new solenoid on, new battery, checked all the grounds, nothing. Adjusted the valves and fires up every time. Thanks again!

[@IndRepair]

Go glad to help! Great job getting it done!! Thanks for watching!!!

[@darthfader6835]

This video saved me so much work fixing my Daughter's YTH 22V46, thank you so much. As an added plus, my Daughter thinks I'm a genius. LOL

[@IndRepair]

Haha awesome job! Thank you for your support and for watching!!

[@dvsmotions]

This video popped up and it's EXACTLY what my mower has been doing for 2 years. I replaced battery 2 times, keep it on tender and seems to help but still happens occasionally. Thanks soooooo much for this video. It seems like common sense but never considered it.

[@IndRepair]

Awesome news! Glad it helped!

[@marinedad3]

my husqvarna is only 2 years old and was having the same problem and was very close to getting rid of it. i did some research and found this video and did what he said to do. now it starts every time i turn the key. thank you sir for sharing your knowledge 👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@IndRepair]

Awesome job! Glad to help! Thanks for watching!!

[@jhennes1]

Same half crank problem on a 24HP twin I just bought used with a good battery. Had ordered a starter and saw your video. Previous owner had two of the valves set over .020. You are a life saver! Thanks!

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!!

[@kylesteele7130]

This might be ab older video but I have searched for about an hour using different keywords before I actually came across this video that I am actually able to fix my unit. Thanks for the details and the why not what shortcuts to take to get it running again!!!!!!!!

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@AaronClow]

I did the same! Had this problem out of the blue today. Thought it was the battery as it was old, but new battery, same issue. I usually troubleshoot things myself, but didn't begin to know how to troubleshoot this. Was it electrical? Starter? I had no idea what to search for. Ended up using "starter catches" I think and this was the first video that came up and exactly described my issue! Will adjust valves tomorrow and hopefully my ancient mower will be good as new! Thanks @IndRepair

[@kevinjackson6568]

Just adjusted my valves after replacing all electrical stuff😮, It spins freely now. Thanks for video!

[@IndRepair]

Awesome! Great job! Thanks for watching!!

[@billcallahan9303]

Great job Mr. Martin! The world would cease to exist if not for people like you! You solved my same problem!

[@IndRepair]

I appreciate that!

[@bronx6508]

This was the exact problem I had! Followed what you showed and it fired right up and runs like a champ! Thanks a million!

[@IndRepair]

Awesome news! Great job!

[@mikecollins1269]

Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I've had this problem for quite a while and this has fixed it. Keep up the good work and keep those videos coming!

[@IndRepair]

Glad to hear! Thanks for watching!!

[@autojohn-pu1vf]

@@IndRepair had 2 craftsman mowers do that, the 1st was a green one that was shaped like a bug... mom kept having me put batteries in they always go dead and wouldn't start.. the next one like the one in the video started doing the same thing after 2 or 3 months and I put a motorcycle battery in with WAY more amp hours then it needed... the 2nd time I went to mow it was dead. I wore out the green one starting it with a jump box over the years so I took the battery out of the red one and got a nice little jump box... it spins it really really fast and starts everytime w no battery and hump box. I don't think its a valve ajustment

[@IndRepair]

Right on

[@snowdragon8473]

I wish I had seen this video before the "I've changed out the entire electrical system and the crazy thing still won't start" point. Haha. Thank you!

[@IndRepair]

Lol it definitely happens!!

[@adriankerri890]

Thankyou I have this symptom on a Greenfield evolution and I know the electrical side is fine so will be checking this out😊

[@IndRepair]

Definitely!

[@rickasisco]

My cub cadet has been doing this for months. I just try to start it a few times and it finally takes off. I tell myself that I will fix it later (aka check starter, solenoid, etc) but end up procrastinating and then forgetting about it until its time to mow again, so then I just try it a few times until it takes. Now I found this video and the fix. The one time in my life that procrastination paid off. lol

[@IndRepair]

Haha nice!! I tell my wife all the time when procrastination helps me but rarely actually put anything off for long

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!

[@anthonyrroach9263]

Done the trick brother thank you so much don't pay no attention to the negative comments.

[@IndRepair]

I appreciate that! There's a know it all in every classroom haha thanks for watching!

[@Jovanri]

Thanks so much for making this video! Same "cranking pause" situation I was in and your video was the answer!

[@IndRepair]

Great job!

[@garyh7949]

I had the same problem. Adjusted the valves and that fixed it.

[@IndRepair]

Awesome! Thanks for watching!

[@danahassler2009]

The new carb made it run smoother and the new battery helped since the old one really needed replacement, but the valve adjustment got rid of the hard to turn over and now she runs better than when I got it. Thanks so much I had watched another valve adjustment video and did not get the results as when I followed your example. Maybe I did something wrong the first time but this time I did the TDC and it worked great the first time. Thanks for making a really nice video.

[@IndRepair]

I appreciate that! So glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@tonybain6376]

Fixed the issue I was having. Thanks for the video! It's the only one I could find covering compression stopping the starter I could find!

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@andrewporrelli8268]

They have an auto decompressor on the exhaust cam. When the valve clearance gets too loose they dont decompress enough. Similar to a lot of 4 stroke single cylinder motorcycles also.

[@IndRepair]

Yes sir! Thanks for watching!

[@billcoomber4642]

The Briggs twin has the valve "kicker" machined onto the cam lobe...that's why valve clearance is so critical. The inherent problem with the Briggs singles is a mechanical device that breaks and ends up in the bottom of the crankcase, this that cam must be replaced. Also, if you're not sure how to feel the slight drag on a feeler gauge, try the go/no go method. Try the correct thickness, then try a deeper gauge .002 thicker...the correct one should slide between the parts easily with little drag and the thicker one should not.

[@billcoomber4642]

"thicker"...not "deeper"...duh.

[@darthfader6835]

Excellent video. I'm doing a repair for this same issue, on the same engine right now and I did not think of determining whether the problem was isolated to one cylinder or the other. You've possibly saved me quite a bit of effort before I go down the camshaft compression release rabbit hole. Thank you very much for demonstrating this idea. EDIT: I adjusted the valves to .006 intake and .008 exhaust as you stated in the video and no improvement. I checked the B&S site for the clearance specs for the 400000 series Intek and they specify .004 - .006 for both intake and exhaust. I re-adjusted the valves to .004 intake and a loose .004 exhaust and it's cranking like a champ every time now. Just wanted to let you know and again thank you for saving me a lot of unnecessary work.

[@IndRepair]

A good reminder to aways check the valve specs for your specific engine, sometimes they are different! Great job! Glad you got it going!

[@themikeyfrisco]

Can’t be the only one who thinks he sounds like Tom Hanks…

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!!

[@BobChanter]

I thought the exact same thing. However, he keeps saying, "go ahead......." For some reason that drives me nuts.

[@SusanHayes-vx2dq]

Too distracted by the mispronounced words.

[@IndRepair]

Lol, take from it what you will

[@mkbcoolman]

This is the exact problem I've been having on my Scag Liberty Z (Kohler KT725), and it's been driving me NUTS. Battery, starter, and ignition were already replaced. Wish I had found you first, but oh well. At least now I know how to fix it! THANK YOU!!!

[@IndRepair]

Awesome! Glad to help. Thanks for watching!!

[@outlet6989]

Think on the bright side. You have some good spare parts if you still have the replaced parts.

[@rubenmendoza6895]

Quick and easy…. love! it man

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!

[@stephenbay9564]

THIS did it. Thanks so much!

[@IndRepair]

Awesome job! Thanks for watching!

[@dannychiguina3962]

Awesome 👍 job guys I appreciate all your Tips and video's keep up the great work.

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for that and for watching! I appreciate the positive support!

[@russ8001]

Thanks. Until I saw this video of yours, I watched a bunch of single cylinder videos where they say the cam shaft was broken because there was no "bump" in the valve movement during rotation. On the twin cyclinder models, I guess there is no bump, and tomorrow I am going to do exactly this -remove each spark plug independently and test if one allows starter to turn over, and see if one side is the culprit then go set valve gap. Thanks and I hope this solves it.

[@IndRepair]

I hope you get it taken care of!

[@gzeeee]

Thank you this is exact issue I was having and it fixed the problem. It really seems like a battery or starter problem but its not. Never thought of checking the valves.

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@larryjohns8823]

Same with my single cylinder B/S engine. Intake was so loose the engine would no longer start. After setting the valves the engine started first time. Now for an open question... my engine will not idle, runs very fast even with me holding the throttle against the idle screw. When I engage the blade it does slow down some, but no idle. Help - suggestions

[@mark102003]

​@@larryjohns8823 vacuum leak. O-ring(or gasket) at cylinder head, carb-intake, or recently I've found one to leak through the throttle shaft of the carb.

[@larryjohns8823]

@@mark102003 Thanks for the suggestions, I will check all of these possible problems.

[@sonofthunder.]

had to adj my choke cable,and magneto air gaps,on mine,was hard starting,thanks for video,i havnt had the decompress give me trouble,i did adj valves awhile ago,starts easy now finally

[@IndRepair]

Awesome! Thanks for watching!

[@watercop5115]

We have a tendency to make things difficult. You Martin did a great job explaing , take care.

[@IndRepair]

I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!

[@TheAussieincalgary]

I have been having this issue for a while now on my Craftsman (same as your Husqvarna) I had recently replaced the solenoid as the old one did look aged and had poor resistance. (with an EV 250 Amp unit that I had ) seemed to improve things, but suspect it was coincidental. Spotted your vid and as I hadn't done a tappet adjustment yet did indeed find one side had excessive lash. Did a, by sight and feel adjustment on both cylinders (my feeler gauges are at work). Couldn't believe how different it was after (42 years as mechanic, but not on small engines for the last 38) Thanks for the tips.👍 Tagged your video on one of mine where I had asked if anyone knew what it was.

[@IndRepair]

Great job! Thanks for watching and for your comment!

[@chadbrattain7185]

Thanks so much man. I'm having the same issue with my mower and I have the exact same mower as that one and I'm having issues with it not starting and the starter is hitting the flywheel but it won't turn over or start and the fanwheel/flywheel is very tight. So I will be checking this tomorrow morning when I get up and hopefully fix it because it's a very nice mower and I only paid $250 for it so I definitely got a deal on it and if I can get it fixed with just adjusting the valve spacing, I will be very happy.

[@IndRepair]

Awesome, would love to hear how it goes

[@freecycling6687]

Good video pointing out that it's better to spend more time diagnosing and less time changing parts! One thing I'd mention - it's not just TDC, but TDC on the compression stroke (so you can be sure the valves are closed.) Or alternatively, you can turn the engine until the valve you're NOT adjusting on is open, which means the valve you're adjusting on will be closed. James Condon (the "generator guy") was the first person I saw on YT to point out this shortcut.

[@IndRepair]

We do this adjustment the same way on our video at kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJXGc3mrrNR7aqssi=OA5O2c9eoovpliPg with a similar issue. If you are at top dead center and the intake valve (top valve) is still not fully closed, you know you are not on the compression stroke on these engines. I should have mentioned that! Good tip!

[@wfdix1]

I’ve learned my about Briggs & Stratton engines and their compression relief cam. My Husqvarna riding mower has not been seen for two months. It has been in the shop(s) for that long due to living on DelMarVa using small engine repair folks.

[@IndRepair]

Definitely takes a while some places!

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!

[@dambroangling2828]

Great video, thank you

[@IndRepair]

Thanks you!

[@gordonjacksonsr.538]

Hello Sir! Thank you very much for this video and all you do to help us to make the necessary repairs needed for our equipment. I was just given a Yard Machine 638rl and I'm having the same problem, but it also backfires during startup. The thing is when I first got it on the 6th of this month, it started up just fine. And then on the 8th it started up just fine as I cut my yard with it. But after my break, when I attempted to fire it back up, it backfired and then started. I then parked it and didn't mess with it again until yesterday the 13th. And that's when I realized that it was dragging as if the battery was dying. I kept on trying and it finally backfired and started up. But when I shut it off and tried it again, I couldn't get it to start again until I put the battery charger on it, and that's when it backfired and started up again. Could that also be a problem with the valves?

[@IndRepair]

Have you tried diagnostics to see if your running on one cylinder? Could be a bent push rod, stuck valve of valve lash issue possibly

[@tonydalton8712]

More than like it is, but you probably bent a valve rod or two check them two.

[@gordonjacksonsr.538]

@@tonydalton8712 I would like to thank you for your response, but it was caused by the o-rings going bad in my Nikki carburetor, which allowed fuel to fill up my crankcase. But once i rebuilt the carburetor and drained the crankcase, that took care of the problem.

[@IndRepair]

Great job!

[@JasonElser]

Got a YTH18542 which is a single cyl Intek doing exactly that. I'll go set the valves and I bet it runs. Only a year and 1/2 old and got it for $200 because it wouldn't run. I bet I'll have a practically new mower in a few mins. This is the first OHV mower engine I've ever worked on. I'm used to the old stuff. You're a great help. Now that I've seen it it's almost exactly like working on an old VW engine. The same valve settings too.

[@IndRepair]

Awesome! Let me know how it goes!

[@JasonElser]

@@IndRepair Ended up being the compression release on the cam. One of those 18.5 Intek starting with 33. So I replaced the cam. All is well now. Looked at the motor on my older one and it's a 33 series 18.5 as well. So I ordered a cam for when it inevitably does the same thing.

[@JasonElser]

@@IndRepair Still not bad. For a total of $300 and about 2 hours of work. I got a mower that's only 1.5 years old. Still had the little nubs on the tires. And yes I bought OEM vs. going the cheaper route.

[@IndRepair]

@@JasonElser Defintely a common issue. I have replaced 6 or 7 so far this year and we usually see around 20 fail each year. Great job getting it done!

[@IndRepair]

@@JasonElser Great buy!

[@tdumford1]

the 18.5 twin craftsman i am working on has a bent intake push rod on the left side and the exhaust valve was at .022 on the right side

[@IndRepair]

Not good!

[@cdummar3656]

Thank you !!!!! That's just what my unit is doing.

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@korgothkillings2032]

Thanks best video ever. Just fixed 17 year old poulan pro 42".

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@kmalerich]

That was my issue. Thanks for the great vid. I tried all the usual electrical things none of which solved it.

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@edthompson1727]

Great video. My husky with a kohler is doing the same thing. I thought it was coil problem. But this helped to identify the problem.

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@200cdl]

That was a great video, you explained everything in detail, 👍👍.

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for your kind works and for watching!

[@PRMan1936]

Very good video. That's exactly what my mower does. I'll work on it when I get home from work. Thank You

[@IndRepair]

Awesome! Let us know how it goes. Thanks for watching!

[@SergiuM42]

Thank you for this!! Super helpful!

[@IndRepair]

So glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@Glide1992]

You taught me a lot about my engine problem. Thanks for your time. Subbed and liked.

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@alanr6529]

You the Man !!! There’s one season on my new Briggs+Stratton engine and it has this exact problem . I would have thought that the battery was dropping charge etc ,etc and eventually it would have driven me crazy enough to shot it with a 12 bore😵‍💫. Thanks to you for making the video, and thank God for KZbin for useful content, instead of the goofy attention seekers falling off stuff. Out. 🎤

[@IndRepair]

I am glad to help! Thanks for watching!!

[@Intim31976]

Thanks, I've been fighting this issue all summer. Not a fan of the briggs intek, it is a mower that I threw together from an old JD lx series and the engine from a snapper lt series. After replacing the carb and starter and buying both mowers it is still cheaper than buying a new pto clutch for my JD 318 (23 hp kohler command repower)....i have probably half the price invested in this thrown together mower. Wish I had looked into this months ago, it would of saved some frustration

[@IndRepair]

They can be a pit. Thanks for watching!!

[@taxationistheft2.0]

Thanks this is exactly what my Troy bilt is doing

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help!! Thanks for watching!

[@timsmith1778]

Appreciate the information. I've been working online with the exact same problem.

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@donaldchase329]

Had the same problem with my cub, did a valve adjustment and it has worked ever since.

[@IndRepair]

Awesome news!

[@russellrowles9136]

Thanks, I should have listened to myself before I bought a starter and battery. Battery was old so that got me started chasing a potential electrical issue. I should have known the valve was this issue when I couldn't turn the motor easily.

[@IndRepair]

Thing present as different things so often it really is amazing how one problem can be 10 different things. Thanks for watching!

[@skiprope536]

Great video TY. I have 450 hours on mine. I run full synthetic on my 22V endurance 5-30w from 300 hours. Big diff on starting and motor runs much smoother as well. On my 3rd battery outside storage only dead of winter with a tarp. 2012 New purchase. All original except blade spindles,

[@IndRepair]

Nice! Thanks for watching!

[@bertgrau3934]

Have suggestion, the spindle bearings can be replaced. Usually much cheaper than the entire spindle. They usually use a 6203 Bearing, take the spindle shaft out, and drive the bearings out, and drive the new bearings in, grease put back together ready to use again.

[@IndRepair]

They sure can be! Problem is that many times they get s5uck on the shaft and have to be cut or heated up to be removed which is a lot of time. For an individual with some extra time on their hands may make sense but spindles are pretty cheap anymore!

[@Rebel9668]

Same thing happening on my 19hp Briggs single cylinder. Took the plug out and she turns over just fine. Thanks for the advice.

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@jerrysorrell4907]

I would have made sure the stud that the rocker arm pivots on has not come loose and backed out.

[@IndRepair]

Yes I did fail to mention checking the rocker pivot bolts! I see this issue with valve spacing after about 400 hours very often but very rarely see the rocker pivot back out slightly. Normally they are stripped out and spacing is off by 1/4" or more or there is a bent push rod and is very obvious. Thanks for pointing this out!

[@waderigsbee6923]

I have seen that happen before.

[@altonrowell613]

That is a good idea.

[@tonydalton8712]

That's what happen to me, I kept adjusting the valves and it would run for about five minutes backfire them quit and wouldn't start. After about the third time (and a few bent push rods later) I noticed the rocker pivot bolt Was almost falling out! Used some blue lock tight on it and it fix it.

[@philliphall5198]

I just pull them and lock tight all four and torqued

[@bad03xtreme]

Thanks Tom Hanks!

[@IndRepair]

Haha thanks for watching!

[@bad03xtreme]

@@IndRepair I can't be the only person to tell you that, right?

[@IndRepair]

@@bad03xtreme Had a few others say the same thing. I don't hear it but I guess it is not a bad thing!

[@robertbloomquist7354]

Valve lash is off....happens at about 600 hours on twin briggs....very common

[@IndRepair]

I see it a lot earlier but correct with the diagnosis!!

[@davidgridley3643]

Thanks for this , I have the same issue

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help!

[@UziBlancoOfficial]

I've got new battery and solenoid but now it won't even try to turn over so I'm hoping this helps.. prob gonna order a starter if all my wiring looks good..

[@IndRepair]

For sure

[@altonrowell613]

Interesting information and video. Thanks 👍

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!

[@grasshopper9247]

Been dealing with this for years! Thank you! Would you explain how you were finding TDC? Thanks for dealing with all the armchair experts to put out great information. It really helps.

[@IndRepair]

Yeah I love to help! I do tend to misspeak about what I am doing or what something is called sometimes which never helps! You can find TDC by inserting something in the spark plug hole and rotating the engine clockwise from the flywheel end until the piston reaches its furthest point up. Most engines call for adjusting the valves at 1/4" past TDC so you would want to mark the furthest point up on whatever you are using in the spark plug hole (pencil, screwdriver, etc.) and let the piston go back in by 1/4" (still turning clockwise flywheel end) before setting the clearance. Hopefully this is what you need! Let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks for watching!

[@wisdomspitter7688]

@@IndRepairI put a new FX730V on my Hustler and ever since I put it in, even with a new crate motor and new battery I’ve had to put a jump pack on the battery to get it fired up. It fires right up every time with the jump pack. I recall reading in the Kawi manual they called for a 400cca battery which all the U2 size for mowers are less than by 100-50 cca. Since then I’ve paid attention to other brands that use that motor and none of them have a battery rated that high. Is it possible my motor just needs valve lash checked in order to get the battery alone to fire it off? It’s done it from day 1 - brand new motor. Thanks!

[@IndRepair]

@@wisdomspitter7688 It takes a pretty stout battery to turn. If it is brand new I would tend to think the battery may be the issue. We do see some problems with smaller CCA batteries on these engine. We use 350CCA u1-3 batteries for most things. Check the connections and ground wire to ensure everything is 100% tight also could just have a bad connection somewhere causing this to happen. Thanks for watching!

[@wisdomspitter7688]

What brand of mower battery do you like best? I’m at a point in life where I’ll pay extra for an Optima or AGM to not have to fool with junk.

[@Headcase0570]

Great video, but what are you doing/feeling for when sticking the screwdriver down the sparkplug hole?

[@IndRepair]

We are making sure the piston is going up/down. When you adjust the valves the piston should be 1/4" past top dead center. This means you watch the piston come all the way to the top with the screwdriver and make a mark (TDC). You then make another mark 1/4" up the screwdriver. When you continue to turn the engine and the second mark gets to the top of the spark plug hole, you are 1/4" past TDC.

[@Headcase0570]

@@IndRepair Okay, that's clear! Last question: How do you tell which rocker is intake and which is the exhaust?

[@Dukerdr]

@@Headcase0570 On these vertical shaft Briggs twins, the intake valve is on top, exhaust on the bottom.

[@enrique1955]

WoW, thanks ! My Cub cadet acted that way since I bought it new.

[@IndRepair]

Adjust it and let us know how it goes. Thanks for watching!

[@Tom-pb2ui]

Now that I went down the rabbit hole of changing all starting components and getting nowhere, and finding out that the first thing to do is a simple valve adjustment is 99% effective, this is now my starting point on all small engines, wish I'd known sooner!!! Just start with it cause you know they're in need of it anyway

[@IndRepair]

Yeah, they do need adjustment and seems like every one I work on is overdue

[@evansmoak7182]

I was following you until you were working on the valves. I haven't worked on valves, so I'm not sure what you were using to calibrate the spacing. It kind of looked like pieces of sandpaper, but I know that's not what they are. What "tools" were you using for the spacing? Great video...I think you may be the answer to prayers. I've replaced a lot of parts up til now. Edit: I found the spacing tool on Amazon.

[@IndRepair]

Yes sir! Feeler gauges are really cheap and come in handy for many different things. We use the ones like these amzn.to/3VfaM7b

[@evansmoak7182]

@IndRepair That's hilarious...I purchased last night on Amazon the same brand and price, but with 32 pieces instead of 16. I appreciate you.

[@IndRepair]

Awesome!

[@sicklecell9999]

Same symptoms I have on my 20 HP Kohler courage.single cylinder. OK, I'm a decent mechanic so I think I know how to do this. Never had a problem w/with setting valves before, but for some reason I get to TDC on comp stroke, set both valves correctly, check them again, and still I get the engine locking up when I try to start it. It WILL start fine if the engine wasn't right at the comp stroke, but when I try to start it and the engine is almost to TDC it will only turn a tiny bit and stop. I have to manually rotate the fly wheel, then it will start since it's now past the comp stage. I know what you're thinking... I don't have the valves adjusted correctly, but they are. this is very frustrating... any ideas? Some people say to turn the engine about a quarter turn past TDC, then set the valves. thoughts??? THANKS!!

[@IndRepair]

Are you getting the compression release bump? If not you may have a bad camshaft

[@diverguy2583]

I'm having this exact issue on my kohler 23. I'm gonna have to check that when I get home.

[@IndRepair]

Let us know how it goes

[@armyvet4081]

if no feeler gauge-use a piece of a pop can - close enough

[@IndRepair]

If it works it works

[@armyvet4081]

when in the field- you use what you have@@IndRepair

[@IndRepair]

@@armyvet4081 I agree 100% we used to work on grain bin dryers in extremely remote areas if you couldn't fix it then and there with what you had a bin full of grain could go bad

[@kencurtis228]

TY for Sharing

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!

[@Jenda-ld8dj]

Thanks for sharing this with us!

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@fergusonhobbyfarm4567]

Thank you

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching! Glad to help

[@bigsonslawncare]

Good points and info full watch!💯💪🏾

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!!

[@oneyetiger]

Please explain where you stopped turning the cam shaft and how it feels before you adjust the values.

[@IndRepair]

We are looking for top dead center of the compression stroke. If you hold you finger over the plug hole when you start to get some compression as the piston comes up you know that is the compression stroke. On the exhaust stroke this compression will not occur. Go 1/4" past the TDC position (1/4" past piston all the way up) Adjust the valves and reassembly

[@XxrajoxX]

Big thanks!

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!

[@lowandslow3939]

Great troubleshooting. Subbed.

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!!

[@lowandslow3939]

@@IndRepair My folks just bought a JD X394 so I got the hand-me-down Husqvarna with 500 hours. I’ve been turning wrenches and running meters on one thing or another for 40 years. Always nice to have a good idea of what to anticipate. A little preventative maintenance goes a long way.

[@IndRepair]

It sure does!

[@xlr8wme]

Thank you!! I think this is my issue!!

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@spyder000069]

I had similar symptoms a few years back with my 27hp Kohler on my kubota zero turn mower. Rotate some and then bind. In that case it was the starter shaft had actually bent. I had to move the mower in the barn and temps were down in lower 40's and it bent while trying to start it. Apparently not uncommon. The replacement starter supposedly had a harder shaft and also came with a gear that was 1 tooth less so that it had more torque to turn the engine over. No problems since.

[@IndRepair]

I have only see it a couple times but when I did see it the valve spacing was an issue once and the wrong starter was the problem the other time. Thanks for watching and for your information!

[@IndRepair]

Awesome job

[@theusconstitution1776]

What about a starter that does that on a 14 month old tractor in New Hampshire where it only gets used June July and August? Should that be a warranty item? Cub cadet xt1

[@IndRepair]

Valve spacing is considered a "normal wear" item and is not something covered by warranty under most companies unfortunately

[@SendItBilly]

Classic case of Joe homeowner learning to stay on his lane. This is why you take stuff to mechanics. Well done.

[@IndRepair]

Absolutely!

[@richardcranium5839]

as a note = trying to do a compression test on these by just cranking will give a false reading. on v-twins you can run one cylinder while checking the other. a better test is a cylinder leak test but this needs to be done with the cylinder around 40 degrees after tdc on the power stroke.

[@IndRepair]

Leakdown test is always better for checking but many times a compression test will tell you just as much. Thanks for watching!

[@chrismorgan6149]

Thanks

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!

[@boblemmer9448]

Thanks I have a Husky 2654. Same deal. Was just about to head to Walmart for another battery. 😊

[@IndRepair]

Awesome!

[@Windyhillfarm71]

Great video

[@IndRepair]

Thanks for watching!

[@rhondakendrick2563]

GOOD INFO THANK U 😀

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help! Thanks for watching!

[@MissouriOldTimer]

does this particular engine have a compression release on the cam? I'm working on a 24 hp like this and I have the engine apart and there is nothing on the camshaft as far as a compression release.

[@IndRepair]

Some similar engines do not have this release

[@MissouriOldTimer]

@@IndRepair thank you, I don't think this one ever did,, thanks again.

[@amandabrigman3422]

Question. I have a Troy built mower. Only one spark plug on mine though, but the same issue. I can removed the spark plug and turn over easily to relieve the compression. So can you tell me how to make sure mine is too center to try adjusting the valves on mine?

[@IndRepair]

If this is on the Briggs intek engine you may have an issue with the same problem but many times it takes a camshaft replacement instead of just an adjustment. Your gets adjusted at 1/4" past top dead center just like this one but I would check to make sure the release is working in the first place. Watch our video on checking it at kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZKtXnilirmnq6c

[@AndysDogHouse]

Great video. I was hoping I found my answer. I am having the same problem where the engine won't turn with the spark plug in but will with it out. I adjusted the valves and it still does the same thing. Is there something else? Thanks

[@IndRepair]

Is the loss speed compression release visibly working?

[@patriotlife589]

If it has high hours on it, cam is probably wearing out.

[@AndysDogHouse]

@@patriotlife589 Thanks, I replaced the cam.👍👍

[@Charlie1012000]

Thanks for making that video, now I know what's wrong with mine!

[@IndRepair]

Glad to help!! Thanks for watching!

[@bradypentecost7206]

Does the same concept apply for a Kohler courage 20 with no compression relief?

[@IndRepair]

Without the compression relief you are probably talking about a push rod broken/bent, valve stuck or timing off. The same electrical principles will apply

[@g.medina3717]

Awesome information, I have a Husky YTH18642, 42in Deck, doing the same exact thing, just did the plugs and all maintenance like 8 months ago, went to fire it up the other day and it’s did not want to fire it up, what I found it’s very hard one one side of the compression stoke by hand, I can get it to turn but takes some good strength, should i Inspect the Valves first? Or try a starter possibly weak? And if Inspect the valves do I have to drain all the oil first? Thanks so much for sharing all this.

[@IndRepair]

I would definitely inspect hard side to turn valves first. No need to drain the oil. Hope you get it going! Thanks for watching!

[@jlssayre158]

I/4" past top dead center on the compression stroke.Piston down 1/4" past top dead center or flywheel moved 1/4" past top center?

[@rafaeladamovic330]

0:50 how did it start while spark plug disconected

[@IndRepair]

It has two cylinders, each can operate independently

[@jerrymontalbano3222]

Wouldn't it be nice if my yt "H" 18542 riding mower had it so easy with a simple rubber boot that snaps onto the spark plug tip?? Instead, mine uses a metal/tin "arrestor" that snaps onto the tip. The issue is that I couldn't get it off after it's 1st 3 yrs on there. Because of trying to pull it out, the tip of the plug broke. Of course, I was trying to replace the plug, but to make matters worse, the frickin' spark plug wire of the coil that attaches to this metal 'n rubber part broke out of its housing. Now, I'll have to buy a new coil and spark plug wire. I put the "arrestor part" back over the tip of the plug, but it doesn't snap over the tip like rubber boots do. I'm stumped having worked on autos, lawn equipment and now the tractor for the first time. Suggestions on getting the part back on the plug after my new "arrestor" and coil arrives?

[@IndRepair]

It should just go right one with all new parts. I hate this design also!!

[@jerrymontalbano3222]

Another major problem in the design is getting to a bolt at the rear off and on. Trying to fit the hand, wrench back there and align the bolt into both the hole and the hole of the plastic anchor of the oil filler tube into the engine was a real b____. The second was attempting to get the headlamp harness off to put the hood aside. No matter how hard I pulled, it wouldn't slide out and I was afraid to hear my arm/hand yanking it away.

[@IndRepair]

Wow!

[@IndRepair]

Sounds like a real pain!

[@jerrymontalbano3222]

@@IndRepair Pain? It took me about 2 hours to line up the bolt through the cover into the oil reservoir tube and into the engine from behind the engine with 2 fingers. A real flaw in design when the cover screw holes should have been more to the sides.

[@jcooley74]

Its the decompression spring/mechanism. Its cheap and weak. Gotta pull the camshaft out to replace it. Very common on B&S

[@IndRepair]

On this one the cam is fine, little easier but definitely a common problem

[@jimholley2697]

I'm thinking a broken comp relief cam broken or flywheel out of time. Slight sheer on keyway

[@IndRepair]

Close

[@tomravi7959]

I have the same problem, I did everything like you and still one cylinder blocks the start sequence. Is it the camshaft ? One cylinder works and the other doesn't? There is only one compression release on the camshaft ?

[@IndRepair]

Are you getting the compression release bumps from the rocker on both sides or just one?

[@douglasforsythe5853]

You don't have to adjust the valves at TDC. One valve open and one valve closed is the way I've always done it and have never had a problem.

[@IndRepair]

On most briggs engines that is true but in some instances that is not the case with interference from decomp systems from what I understand. Only reason I have always done it this way. Thanks for watching!

[@douglasforsythe5853]

@@IndRepair I've been doing them this way for 15 years and have never had a problem. Great video though.

[@IndRepair]

I agree wouldn't hurt for sure. I APpreciate that!

[@henrikl1394]

I got the same problem on my mower, but it's only a one cylinder , but probably the same issue . Thanks 🙂

[@IndRepair]

Could be for sure!

[@mattavery761]

I got a Briggs and stratin 17.5 hp I bought a new battery new starter and new starter solenoid adjust the valves to spec just like you did in video and mine still won’t spin what else could it be ?

[@mark102003]

​@@mattavery761camshaft. The ACR breaks off all of the singles, eventually!

[@IndRepair]

Compression release on the camshaft was probably the issue?

[@IndRepair]

They sure do!

[@vicenterr7]

I need a valve adjustment, thanks

[@IndRepair]

Almost all of us do! Thanks for watching!

[@PrestonMatthews-s4i]

Briggs intake valve is adjusted to .003 and never do just one side

[@IndRepair]

In the description it shows valve spacing for most of these models. In the service manual, depending on the model it will vary. Most common the service manual says .005" for both valves. This was to show process and that the adjustment works. Both cylinder valves were adjusted and rocker cover gaskets were replaced before this went to the customer. If the camshaft is worn going a little tighter with the valves will not be a bad idea

[@sunkbootnoot1204]

have the same mower with the same issue at 233 hours

[@IndRepair]

Sorry to hear that it happened so soon. At least you can get it taken care of relatively easily. Thanks for sharing that