Road to 300k / 98 Chevy Silverado Front Differential Rebuild

axle seal was leaking. removal, teardown, inspection, reasemble, and reinstall of front differential

[@rodneyf.9595]

I know it's been several years since you made this video but thank you for the video I been doing this for along time and you did a great job covering the basics . At the end of your video I seen your mustang I had one alot like it , cool car . Again thanks . Keep on thrashing 👍

[@patmul-k6798]

Thanks for showing the actuator set up, something other videos didn't. My front diff is locked in constantly even after replacing the actuator. I'm thinking the spring must've broke. Hey, thanks again for your time!

[@jodywade5617]

Damn Dude, starting mine tomorrow with your tutorial! THANK YOU and great job.

[@siduramaxde]

Just did this to my 96 k2500. Truck has 393,xxx miles. My left front axle was stuck in the diff and I had to take the diff apart to beat it out. The clip that holds the axle in broke in removal. I guess after almost 400k miles it was at "home" lol

[@jamesfarmer2748]

Mayhew makes some nice race punches in some nice long lengths for knocking out that bearing.

[@iowadiy6361]

I should probably get a set of those!

[@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf]

Thank you for that video. I am planning on changing my front and rear axles to 4.55 for towing on my 95 gmc 1500 and I was wondering how difficult the front was. It definitely looks alot easier than the rear. I just replaced my 4x4 actuator with a doorman one from oreilly in July. I thought I had to rebuild the front axle when that was the issue. I am amazed how the ring and pinion in the front axle just clip in like that. My only advice to you is to "use the permatex ultra black silicone". That mega black stuff always gave me issues when I used it.

[@iowadiy6361]

It sounds like you have a good project there! The hardest part about the front is getting it in and out if you don't have the proper equipment.. I've put 10k on the truck and it hasn't leaked for me yet, but then again that's only 10k...

[@ronamer1]

on the shift solenoid, how far does the plunger move to engage the 4wd?

[@iowadiy6361]

That one I don’t know for sure offhand. I would think that in most cases the solenoid moves or it does not so I don’t know if the distance matters.

[@ronamer1]

@@iowadiy6361 thanks. I did a lot of stop motion on your video. it was clear enough I am guessing, based on other parts I could measure of a known length, about 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch of travel. your job filming made it possible for me to do my job. thanks. P.S. I am switching out the electric and building a mechanical. this is why I needed the info. POS electric failed twice.

[@iowadiy6361]

I’m glad it worked. That sounds like an interesting build! I haven’t seen a mechanical shifter like that before. That would be a fun one to see

[@rick8676]

Good video, I am looking to do this to an 2004 1500 w/ 5.3. We have been hearing a clunk from the front end when driving over anything on the road surface. Only thing I can find is drivers side output shaft moves up and down in the case a bit. The daughter had it in 4WD on dry pavement and said "it wouldn't go". I can reproduce that and seems like something is binding, hoping I don't find a destroyed case or some such crap.

[@iowadiy6361]

That doesn’t sound very good. Sounds like at least the bearing is out and maybe more. If you need the truck though you could take the CV shafts, front driveshaft, and case all out to repair and still drive the truck around

[@rick8676]

@@iowadiy6361 Thanks for the input, I had to take it for work, ~400 miles, not a giant oil mess, so maybe I am over estimating the play in that side. both sides have some, with drivers being more, If I put a dial indicator on the play what numbers should the eye brow raising begin to be painful.. I could see driving without the shafts, never occurred to me to do it without the case, mind blown. Have a great day

[@iowadiy6361]

If you have play and it’s leaking you don’t want to drive on that too much more or you could break something else. Good luck with it!

[@dylanhaas5036]

How did you get the snap ring and gear to go down

[@Chuxgold]

Can use about anything to get pinched. So the tire does not spin.

[@joshbarba5061]

Nice video! I have to do the exact same thing to my 1989 k2500. I've had the truck for almost 20 years and it just started leaking. Did you get your parts from Napa or did you go with the factory Delco parts? I see at least one of your seals was a Federal Mogul part. My truck is at 248,xxx miles now.

[@iowadiy6361]

Thanks! I usually go with O’Reillys. I’m sure that the Napa brand would be the same quality. Just try to make sure not to throw anything away until you’re sure that you got the right replacement part.

[@anthonycoffey4699]

I have a 1997 tahoe I bought with a 6" suspension lift, 3" body lift & 37" tires. Re-geared to 4:56 & drives really nice. BUT the front axles click & clunk real bad. Do I need axles? A front differential? Or is there a kit to rebuild the bearings or whatever holds things together?

[@iowadiy6361]

Do you know exactly where the noise is coming from? That big of a lift will wear out the CV shafts and also the u-joints in the driveshafts a lot quicker

[@SomcallmejameS]

It's your CVs man. Gotta get the extended articulation CVs

[@yo-yoboy9837]

Can I take the Yoke and the spring and all cause I think mine is clogged with mud and dirt. Was just seeing if I could do that... with out having to drop the whole diff? I need to remove the actuator housing.

[@iowadiy6361]

I’m not sure, but I’d guess that you can. How’d you get mud and dirt in there?

[@yo-yoboy9837]

iowadiy I ran it with out in actuator for a couple days and went mudding. And it got clogged up

[@iowadiy6361]

Well in that case I think the best option would be to try taking the one side shaft off. I don’t remember if there’s a seal in there or not but make sure dirt didn’t make it to the diff!

[@highdesertdropshop6343]

I'm missing my snap ring that holds that inner shaft...I cannot find it here locally what should I do? Does the gear come with it inside already ? If so what's that little gear called?

[@iowadiy6361]

It might take some online searching to find one.. and then might take some part number cross referencing. Some of those small parts are the hardest things to find

[@danpaterson6350]

Is there a crush collar on the pinion similar to the rear diff?

[@iowadiy6361]

I don’t know. I never took it apart because my bearing and seal was still good

[@jamesfarmer2748]

YES there is.

[@thomasdavidson7367]

What’s the part number for the right side seals?

[@iowadiy6361]

I don’t have that info. I just got the off-the-shelf part from O’Reilly’s

[@efrainherrera9941]

Helllo., can you please share te part numbers for the seal and bearing ...Thanks!

[@iowadiy6361]

I just went to O’Reilley’s and they had everything there... sorry I know that’s not very helpful but I that was the easiest way for me to find it!

[@ricardopadron241]

It’s looks like 710648

[@scottm7341]

Can you pull out the left side shaft by prying, or do you need to separate the cases?

[@iowadiy6361]

As long as everything is in good shape it should be able to be removed without separating the cases.

[@scottm7341]

@@iowadiy6361 Thanks! Mine is really stuck. I bent the slide hammer foot thing that bolts to the flange. I read somewhere that the retainer ring can get worn flat, so it won't compress to let the shaft out.

[@iowadiy6361]

@@scottm7341 that sounds like it might be what is happening in your case here

[@ZebulonDmax]

Did you have any noise coming from the front end?

[@iowadiy6361]

RedBeard6.2 I never had any noise. I don't think the oil level ever got low enough and the carrier and pinion bearings were still good.

[@StealthyWolfDaddyWerewolf]

I have a 95 gmc sierra 1500 with 230k on it. At 70 mph I get a loud whirring noise in the drivetrain. I replaced the u joints in the driveshaft for clunking from drive to reverse. changed front diff fluid, changed the transfer case fluid that was almost empty, and removed the cap for the rear diff and changed the fluid. On the magnet at the bottom of the diff was some metal. I have lost edges of the teeth on the ring gear and pitting on the pinion. I have seen alot of gm' s with bad axle bearings in the rear diff leaking, or the ring and pinion wearing out or going out. I have also seen the transfer cases go completely out. So if your getting noises driving, change your transfer case fluid to see if it is clean or dirty. Along with remove the cap on your rear diff and check the gears and fluid. My rear diff fluid looked like a blown head gasket. But I am assuming the previous owner went off road and water went through the cracked vent tube.

[@iowadiy6361]

If you keep up with all of the basic maintenance like that you'll have a good truck that keeps going well past the 300k mark

[@rickfernald3452]

Good video, but the back ground music is annoying and makes it hard to hear you, next video TURN OFF RADIO!!~!!!

[@iowadiy6361]

Hey, thanks for the feedback! Good to know

[@alfredoibarra9825]

Can’t you fill it first out of the vehicle?

[@iowadiy6361]

Yes you can, but to make sure that the angle is exactly correct and to make it lighter I installed it first

[@ronamer1]

on the shift solenoid, how far does the plunger move to engage the 4wd?

[@franceshenry3916]

How does 4 wheel drive electric work

[@iowadiy6361]

In short, there is an electronic actuator that connects or disconnects the CV shaft to the differential to engage/disengage

[@danpaterson6350]

Is this a dana 60?

[@iowadiy6361]

No. This is for the independent front suspension

[@danpaterson6350]

@@iowadiy6361 Thanks. I just realized the 60 was a straight axle. I'm about to rebuild the same front axle you have.

[@iowadiy6361]

That should be a fun project! If you’re changing out the carrier or pinion bearings make sure that they are within spec!

[@AndrewMoto96]

I have to do this on my truck because I got lead foot and sheared the output shaft flange off in the mud somehow

[@iowadiy6361]

Wow that’s impressive! It’d be better if you didn’t have to rebuild it after that though!

[@AndrewMoto96]

iowadiy the passenger side seal is leaky also so I might get a rebuild kit for it. Any small tips to help me out ?

[@iowadiy6361]

I’m not sure if they make a rebuild kit. I bought all the parts individually

[@AndrewMoto96]

iowadiy do you know how to remove the skid plate bolt that’s bolted in vertically ? I got the horizontal one that goes through the frame and all that but the vertical one just spins

[@iowadiy6361]

I’m not sure I was looking at the same bolts, but on my skid plate all the bolts look like they’re threaded into the frame