Restoring A 1948 Keller Super Chief Woodie | Episode 4

[@tacoman6697]

I agree with people that you should try to restore this car as factory as possible, but for things like coating the frame, since they originally did some experimental method with a rubber coating, I think powder coating is an acceptable compromise. Not just for convenience, but for the long term preservation of the vehicle. The same goes for certain minor improvements like the slightly increased thickness of the floorpan.

[@TheKirkbrown]

Hey Dave my dad said that the peddle assembly looks like late 30s to 40s. International harvester peddle assembly. He worked on a ranch and had to work on farm equipment alot. He's old but remembers stuff like this. Hope it helps and best of luck.

[@Morgan_Sandoval]

Yeah, you literally can google "1930s IH pedals" and get pictures of these, minus a couple mods.

[@myrmeko]

Damn, i'd like to remake this whole thing in CAD so badly. It's so simple to build. People could buy aluminium tubing to make their own chassis and 3D printers and fiberglass/carbon fiber to make their own body panels. The legacy of this handmade car could transcend into the modern era where new hotrodders could build them from scratch out of modern materials.

[@SanjayFrank11]

I can say this with confidence - This car ended up in good rightful hands. This car could not have a better owner/restorer than you Dave.

[@lenkowalyshen9571]

Those peddles, Are very much the same set up as an Austin Somerset . To remove them . The clutch peddle side at the pivot clean off and you should see a pin drive it out and the clutch peddle will come off the through axle that goes through the frame to the Brake peddle . That one doesn't come off it is welded to the axle pivot that goes through the frame to the clutch peddle . In the frame will be bronze or brass bushings . This set up has been used on many English vintage cars . So I would think just looking at them on your video they took that idea from them. What ever you do don't cut or grind the welded side . And the clutch peddle may have splines on the pivot and need to be heated some before it will come off but you have to remove the pin before you can remove the peddle . Use a drift. I am pretty sure that how it comes apart. After you remove the clutch peddle the whole axle pushes through the frame with the brake peddle in place welded to the axle. comes out as a unit

[@Oyasumi52]

I hope you are taking photo's of all these components before you dismantle them to use are reference when reassembling them again. 😉

[@zx1100a1]

The green appearance of the oil was a normal thing back in the day. Pennsylvania crude would come out of the ground, they would strain it through a screen door to take out the trees, chickens and boulders then put it in cans and sell it. 😉 Truthfully, as oil went back then, it was really basic.

[@RevM]

Bingo. I came here to say this. I remember helping my dad change the oil in his car back in the 60's and remembering that the old dinosaur-based oil had a green-yellow cast to it.

[@RoninDosho]

Ditto, I remember that as well. As well as the glass oil containers with funnels attached. That was back when you got gas at a "service station".

[@dayslife]

Dave , those rod bolts cutter pins as you say are probably lock wires, often uses in aviation preventing bolts getting loose from vibration ..

[@ronsue1000]

I've seen them cotter pins and or wire on a lot of tractor engines back in the day, so not surprising.

[@MikeButash]

These are common too on modern brake rotor hats still, particularly with carbon fiber rotors joined to aluminum hats, and as mentioned in aviation since the beginning of time.

[@classydays43]

Insofar as the powdercoating goes, make sure the shop does a zinc prime undercoat which should help to mitigate water ingress. I used it a lot when I powdercoated for industrial equipment and it lasted a lot longer than just the colour coat.

[@michaelreynolds1904]

Dave, you may want to fill your Ultrasonic cleaner up another inch and a half or so, up to the crease in the interior liner. I burner out two different units when we first got them at the marine service shop I ran. The heating element extends up that high and without fluid, they overheat and crack.

[@SilverJ56]

The men that built this thing were innovative thinkers. They were truly trying to create... This is so great!

[@n84434]

Haven't been this amped for a series in quite a while. Keep 'em comin Dave!👍🏻

[@cesarmoran7433]

I'm very impressed that you taking the time to fix this car

[@PapaVrooom]

Need to do a co-lab with Davin Reckow! This is right up his alley. Would love to see a live steam between you two.

[@cratecruncher6687]

This is the point where "that little car restoration" takes up the space of three cars. So fortunate to have a big shop with plenty of space.

[@Morgan_Sandoval]

17:30 Don't forget, that's a concern with some of the gaskets in these old engines, especially the head gasket. Those tend to be a copper/asbestos/copper sandwich.

[@vicmabus1532]

The tie wire on the bolts is evidence of the car's aeronautical heritage.

[@jesseroberts9607]

Dave I agree keep it as close as possible to stock but it is your time money and effort so do as you wish and complete the process. I look forward to your videos each week can hardly wait to see the finished project.

[@richardbrunner9539]

That car was made the year i was born , how cool is that and from the same state😎

[@alanpaulick7815]

This is so incredibly interesting how they build cars way back in the good old days. Great content thanks for sharing Dave.

[@thomasvogel5535]

Pretty cool dude si my friend s dad restored one and also made a matching trailer im sure he sold it after a few car shows....this was 40 years ago ......i wish u all the best on your journey

[@simplysimon9868]

Dave. Powdercoating was started in the early 40s so all good man.

[@garyworokevich2524]

Digital Ultra Sonic Cleaner.............better idea than what I had in mind.

[@BillyJ57]

I believe that is a Hercules engine. I think there are some Pontiac components used as well. Hope this helps.

[@Fierofreak01]

In the previous video, (part 3) you can clearly see the engine tag at 3:19 and at 4:39 in this video and it shows that it is indeed a Hercules engine.

[@paulwignell9733]

I can see alot of comments for and against certain changes like powder coating the frame. Myself personally think the things you are suggesting are ok, you are meticulous in what you do... the important things that need to go back to factory will do. The things around preservation and safety won't really be seen... so carry on as I'm loving the build and your approach to it. My only grumble was when you took that carb apart, I was thinking to myself... I hope he has a good memory as I was lost after about 5 seconds.

[@SilverJ56]

Dave, been watching you for years now... This restoration is the BEST yet!!

[@Zappa943]

Superb project admire you taking on the challenge, can't wait to see this historic car reborn.

[@ChutneyInc.]

for real I sure wouldn't

[@franksmodels29]

It’s your build you build it the way you want to make it safe and fun to drive..

[@titomiranda4476]

On the clutch assembly, its either pressed or clean along the area where the shaft goes through, there might be a spring pin holding it together you dont see because its dirty

[@markclifton14]

This car will look good when it’s fully restored. Great video 👍

[@deanmarskell1518]

Brilliant video Dave informative and interesting the Keller couldn't be in better hands well done my friend you're doing an amazing job ♥️

[@fishflash1]

Great job on the video. I enjoyed your observations after disassembly. Some things are familiar and others are a surprise.

[@victor440_]

Another good KZbin you could get in touch with is half-ass kustoms

[@josephrogers5337]

I can remember a similar screen input on the fuel line to the carberator on a 1954 gmc pickup with a 270 cid in-line 6. We got a load of bad gas and on a trip we had to stop about every 10 or 15 miles and my dad would remove it and put a match to it to burn away the gas and water from it it would spark as doing so.

[@PumaTwoU]

I agree with the previous poster - they look like small tractor peddles.

[@terrykissell1633]

An interesting design on the pan.

[@craigcaggiano431]

Awesome tear down… looking forward to your next video

[@craig7343]

Look out Dave here comes all the expert opinions. Lol I think your doing great. 👍👌👌

[@charliesgrumma5388]

*GRUMMPA SEZ:* Heat the pedal to cherry red and use a "gear puller" to tug the pedal off of the shaft. He said the factory installed the pedals "cherry red" and when it cooled it "shrank" causing it to tighten onto the shaft. The shaft should be splined or have a "keyway" installed requiring direct pressure to tug it off of the shaft end. Best of luck, can't wait to see the magnum finished.

[@Thinginator]

I am enjoying all the automotive archaeology in this project! It's so fun seeing how this obscure car was built, and I can't wait to see it all start coming together again, especially the wood body.

[@IowaBudgetRCBashers]

Kendall oil was green. Brad’s Penn which is made in the Kendall refinery and is the old Kendall recipe is green. I suggest running Brad Penn oil as it has zinc in it which that old Hercules engine will need

[@supteg2.495]

PB Blaster will help you, Dave, when taking off stubborn rusted items

[@Oyasumi52]

Yeah I too was quite surprised he never used some kind of penetrating oil to help loosen those rusted up bolts which ended up breaking as expected.

[@Junkyard_Dave]

Very few bolts broke

[@defiance772]

Damn amazing video series on the superchief. I will subscribe

[@Lordbignall]

I'm looking forward to the wood work 😅

[@mariusmcleod2487]

Quite honestly Dave if it were my choice i would not powder coat the frame. The best stuff you could use to paint that frame with would be 395A that stuff is as thick as tar but it will protect the frame far longer then powder coating.

[@oldschool6345]

Powder coating and materials used for paint etc.. won't matter for originality's sake. Upping metal gauges for repairs won't either. Changing components or altering design of components will. You're on the right track hunting other manufacturers on pedals etc.. That low a production run (almost makes them all prototypes), wouldn't have used all proprietary components with so much already available. The pedal design is common for the era and at least a decade prior so it's likely you just haven't found it yet. Check Crosley's, Bantam's, maybe midgets too for crossover parts just because they were all small cars. Hunting any other small makes especially any built close to where Keller's were built is good for a hunt/check as well. Is that a continental engine? Thanks for sharing

[@adrianfrankowski138]

Another interesting episode. Thank you!

[@tonirock9881]

Most awaited video for me. Thanks for saving this gem .👍

[@arthurmiller-vl6sw]

Use simple Green Pro in the ultrasonic tank. It is less damaging to aluminum (won’t turn it black)

[@Oscarphone]

Cotter keys on the rod bolts is was not unusual in the 40s and before. Also, oil (but not synthetic) thickens as it ages, eventually turning back to tar. When you add together thermal breakdown it is being driven then local conditions as it sat for 50 years open to the elements through the crankcase breather and you get that tar.

[@Happymali10]

You might want to consider good old chassis paint instead of powdercoating. It protects at least as good, is closer to period-correct, and if you ever have to drill into the frame or scrape it you can patch the paint much easier.

[@glennreach6930]

Also, powder coating is the worst thing to preserve metal. It has microscopic pinholes in it that allows water to get inside. Within a few years it will start to blister from the inside out. Look at all the powder coated bumpers you see on trucks.

[@bigbelconut]

The cotter pins secure the rod nuts. A lot of early engines had cotters or safety wire. Some even had safely wire on the main bolts. Sand in cooling jackets is common on early engines. I see lots of ford flat heads with sand in them.

[@budlanctot3060]

In SBM's the sand from casting accumulates, along with the rust, in the bottom left rear side of block water jackets due to the direction of coolant circulation. Those area soft plugs are usually the first to start leaking because of the accumulation behind them. The casting foundry doesn't always shake all the sand out of the sand core/ coolant passages.

[@keeperofthegood]

1:15 looking square at that end, looks like a center shaft that's been peened. You may want to envelop the assembly in shop towels, soak it down with a rust remover, plastic over it for the day and get the metal good and clean and then look. The other approach may be a little costly but an industrial x-ray could help too. The music video segment was so skipped through, if I wanted a music video Id watch a music video, preferably The Hu or Heilung and other neo-tribal bands thanks. Green oil is in fact good, it would be Pennsylvania Grade Crude oil.

[@1gatomon]

Really neat! Well worth the watch!

[@Junkyard_Dave]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@johnsalter6417]

Gm When you work on small items you need contsiners and a tidy work area

[@dougshedshop]

I saw a short KZbin video called this car matters by Hagerty from a few years back on this car engine is a industrial Hercules trans Borge Warner front rear suspension is from a Willis instrument cluster is out of a Pontiac

[@christopher728]

Big job buddy go get em

[@bigclay63c]

Dave I used to sell construction equipment parts and those pedals might be off a farm tractor from the same era so you might want to check some antique tractor sites

[@donmiller2356]

cool restoration

[@henriquetriaca245]

is there any chance of knowing when exactly was this car impounded?

[@williamvanderburg5949]

Cotter pins on rod caps is fairly common in Model T Fords

[@georgeweisbrod1876]

Try looking at Crosby car club members for compatibility of matching parts

[@davebaker9128]

Crosley

[@georgeweisbrod1876]

Old man with fumble fingers and waiting for new eyeglasses so proof reading not at the est. Thanks for correction. Just hit subscribe button. Neighbors found for me

[@mrdanforth3744]

Designer George Keller was a former Studebaker salesman and the Studebaker Champion was one of the smallest cars available in the forties. I suspect some parts were sourced from Studebaker Champion or from his contacts at suppliers to Studebaker. I would have a look at some Champion pedals etc. You know there are 3 other Kellers in existence, have you contacted their owners? I would think they have done a lot of research and can answer most of your questions about the car.

[@keithshort8991]

As far as the peddles, think keep or military vehicles of the time. Lots of part’s hanging around after all the fighting stopped, heck when I was 7 or 8 they were still selling boxed willies jeeps for $25

[@keithshort8991]

Remember there was no automotive innovation until ww2 was over, the big 4 at the time and all the little companies shot up to take advantage of the public desire for something looking new

[@roc4sure]

Hi Dave looks like you have a diamond in the rough you must have a very technical mind can't wait to see when the pieces are assembled again .ND the wod is fabricated roc

[@ravens101100]

Powder coating is fine, it’s just the frame, but it needs to be restored as close to factory as possible

[@cowboychevyschneider]

Keep the great work dave hope you have a great week end

[@gearsnstuff7330]

I'd guess that that pedal assembly is off of a tractor, possibly Fordson, I doubt any cast metal parts on that were actualy designed for Keller, just repurposed from something else.

[@scottkovacs7634]

I watched a video yesterday and a guy had one he said the motor came out of a 37 Buick and I think he said so did the pedals. Said it took him 7 years to restore

[@jdadon2000]

Love the original idea. But do some upgrades for safety.

[@MarchHare59]

4:24 I like how the firing order is very thoughtfully stamped into the manifold. What does the plate on the engine block read? Does it give any clues to its' origin?

[@mrdanforth3744]

Engine is supposed to be a Hercules industrial engine. Usually found driving generators, air compressors, water pumps etc.

[@johnhopkins6658]

Duckhams oil was green.

[@rodneyhutchinson1495]

The pedal shaft is there a horse shoe circlip at one end holding it together? In a previous comment I mentioned the British Morris 1000 Traveler wood also as this car was designed in the 1940’s it also had it’s brake master cylinder in it’s chassis leg like yours, it seems it was a common way of mounting them.

[@dangerrangerlstc]

That suspension almost looks like a rubber torsion suspension, hence that bracket that adjusts the ride height.

[@RVREVO]

Could be 1940s Ford truck pedals. Some vintage cars have similar setups

[@DrTheRich]

Wouldn't be surprised if the clutch disk wasn't original, with those damping springs inside

[@allanwhorrall5142]

Could the brake, and clutch assembly be from a Crowley, or a Kaiser car ?

[@roycsinclair]

CLEAN those pedals down the whole length of the shaft they rotate on, you could be missing something like roll pins under that grime.

[@thomasvogel5535]

Wow look at the big o carbuater....

[@timyonker645]

Dude, workbench!

[@PanameraTurboSEHybrid]

Interesting. I'm guessing the attempted rubber coating on the frame was their way of rust prevention. I'd say Cerakote or powdercoat it the color of steel. Or just Black.

[@020Dutchy]

Maybe there’s a pin (bit like a cotter pin) through the pedal and the axle, try brush them clean to bare metal?

[@sachenmachen2594]

How on earth are you able to put that motor back together in the end? All these tine pieces!

[@steventangney1367]

yes powder coat the frame great idea.

[@amishguy54]

could you please tell us what the tag on the block says from the looks my guess was out of an international cub tractor or possibly the small hurcules these peddles also look like cub tractor maybe you can find one of there parts catalogs on line but a small up start would deff be raiding other company's parts bins to get this put together,one other tip is find a Hollander parts manual and back check what cars used what parts .good luck and have fun you will triple your parts sorceing places to look

[@danmadison5087]

I see you got a new camera.

[@nicoleingham5592]

What are those oval pistons from are they from a Honda MR750 engine

[@andrewklahold2880]

Brake and clutch pedals, tractors farm tractors

[@jonnyringo6338]

Perhaps you should go with Rhinolining the chasis. It would be more durable than powder coat and more similar to the original

[@jonnyringo6338]

@BIasterXD Yeah, but powdercoat can crack and let moisture in. Anyway, I don't think there is a stack of moisture where Dave lives anyhow. If anyone can get this vehicle sorted its Dave

[@warrathblacktiger5566]

You might check tractors for the peddles since you tried Ford John Deere Massey Ferguson and like could be answer

[@kayla11361]

Somehow cut or drill the shaft. You easily replace the shaft.

[@billiehydrick6417]

Awesome thanks for sharing 👍 🎉🎉❤

[@SunkCostGarage]

What kind of carb is that? Looks very similar to a Carter WO.

[@ATGray-uw3xr]

That clutch brake pedal assembly is old tractor technology. I would say old ford or massey

[@WeeShoeyDugless]

Cotter pins?? Those are split pins, cotter pins are what went through the crank pedals on you old bicycles👍

[@dalleymonroe3836]

That pedal assembly looks like a old tractor assembly which one I don’t know. You might want to go to an old tractor show and look to see which one it is.

[@davebrittain9216]

The pedals look very similar to Ford Model B 1932.

[@keegansteere7459]

the petals are press fitted

[@johnhopkins6658]

British military Land Rovers were rubber coated.

[@josephrogers5337]

Have you an Identification of the engine yet. It seems most likely to me it was not built by keller but purchase from another manufacturer