1971 Cutlass Ep 07 A Pillars, Roof & Dash Welded on!

[@Kersh442]

Oh, the excitement the first time you used the hole punch!!!!!

[@FreyGrimrod]

Awesome came for the shoes and fashion advice and find this project related to some other part of my subscription feed automotive all in one place.

[@dwegner3460]

After watching the welding for a while I needed to turn my eyes away from the screen...as if I was welding myself. Nice work.

[@NORTHERNROVER1]

Hi Bob, This was a very enjoyable video. Some ambitious repairs going on and I especially liked the the dash repair. You got a great result( I agree the paint needs to be a bit flatter) on a pretty difficult spot. Cheers!

[@petersilecchio4417]

Great Video. Love watching it.

[@mcshea847]

Great video Bob. MERRY CHRISTMAS to you and your family!

[@messylaura]

great work Robert for what its worth i find the copper weld thru primer is alot better than the zinc for mig welding plug holes, been using the copper one for ages now, that rear section of drip rail will to be as deep as the original one because its those two top and bottom lips the chrome trim will hook onto one solution maybe to add some welding rod to the bottom as it didnt seem to have that extra rolled swage line when you were making it which makes the bottom lip for the trim to grab, just a heads up incase it bites you towards the end after paint, check the trim before fit painting! again, good progress

[@tavariusbrundidge2333]

Dang u did a great job well done where you located at

[@CobblerBob]

Thanks! Northeast Ohio!

[@anthonyvargasfrank]

What type kinda of primer did you use on the body underneath the roof skin?

[@downsouthcustomstv]

Where did you get the roof skin from for that model?

[@americanfamiliesfirst3747]

Wish someone sold full quarters that begin at the sail panels. Everyone sell them half skins for the 70-72 cutlass.

[@andrer3854]

What size wire and and what settings did you find on your welder to be optimal. I have the same welder

[@CobblerBob]

Butt welding worked really well with 0.025” wire and the power on C and feed around 4 if I remember right. I had the most trouble welding in the inside of the A-pillars. The inside part was angled so I was almost welding upside down. Plug welding in general with the small 0.025 wire was difficult. Some of the welds were not strong and I had to redo them. I found that sanding off the e-coat was a must. I used weld through primer on the back of the new metal and on the top of the underlying base metal. I found that opening up the plug welding holes to 1/4” AND after the new piece was clamped in place, scrubbing off the weld through primer visible through the 1/4” hole helped. It seemed like that primer inhibited the initial arc from making a good bond. The more I used it, the more I found that the settings on the back side of the lid were pretty accurate (imagine that). When I tried turning the power up for the A-pillars, the weld seemed too hot and spattered out of the hole. I turned it up to C , but on D it was too much. When I turned up the power I also increased the feed a little bit. I don’t think I ever hand the feed over 5 or under 3-1/2. For some areas that were thicker, like welding the floors to the thicker cross bracing, or for the crossmember, I put 0.030” flux cored wire in and it was much better on the thicker stuff.

[@andrer3854]

Ok, thanks for info and love the channel. I have a 4L80 for 70 GTO and trying to figure out what fuel injection system I want to use.. I have a lincoln pro mig 140 and have to replace A pillar on 67 gto and a lower window channel. Also have to do a trunk pan and lower quarter, and fender patch on my 70 gto.