Rock Climbing Anchors: Creating a Bolted Top Rope Anchor | Smart Rock Climbing

[@brendanfaulkner3163]

So 👏 to create 👈 a self equalized 👐 anchor, watcha gonna 🤌 need to do 🖖 is start off 🤜 just like before 🤙!

[@Smartrockclimbingvideos]

Thanks for your comment Zeboko. Doing some trad climbing videos are definitely in the pipeline, but there's some topics that I'd like to cover first for newer climbers. Stay connected to find out when that series will come out.

[@pablozalduondo8478]

take this video down

[@alexanderlindblom6229]

Never, EVER place carbiners on top of other chains or rings in the achor bolts. Get your knowledge straight before you educate others and putting them in danger.

[@lyellmincer7468]

What i think he meant was not everyone knows, and you cant assume that a new climber will figure out that double stacking biners on a bolt is not okay. I agree that you should have better attention to detail because these kind of things could be someones life some day but at the same time, he didnt have to be such a cock about it.

[@adammcneill8637]

@@lyellmincer7468 what could happen in this situation with the carabiners on top of the chains?

[@wissamharb5684]

@@adammcneill8637 it would put pressure on the chain and potentially cause it to wear

[@adammcneill8637]

@@wissamharb5684 thanks for the reply. I was thinking maybe the chain being under the carabiner would cause some sideways pressure on the carabiner when the system is loaded and in the worst case the carabiner would fail from a stress fracture. There obviously designed to take allot of weight in a streight line. Would be interesting to see how strong they are in the directions there not intended to be used. I have watched allot of these style of videos and have probably learnt more from the comments than the videos.

[@pablozalduondo8478]

@@adammcneill8637 actually that is what can happen. The sideways force could easily cause any carabiner to fail. Even easier to snap your gates.

[@Aceland1]

Great vid! Easy to follow!

[@zeboko13]

I'd love it if you made a video outlining how to set a proper anchor using trad equipment (nuts, cams, etc.).

[@MaxwellMcKinnon]

Excellent video. Thanks for fixing the safety issues in the last video. I like your equalizing anchor and hazardous mistake explanation.

[@addsy6396]

A quick tip is instead of finding the half way mark, just tie the two ends of the rope together to form a continuous loop of rope. Then when you're down the bottom just pull the strand with the knot in it down. Voila... This is quite speedy if you're setting a up a number of top rope anchors for groups

[@smar3167]

Great video! Thanks for explaining it so easily!

[@mf1553]

I'd prefer 2 slings, but awesome video

[@cyphloading1536]

Great video!

[@80ilanit]

Great video, thank you !

[@smartlivingbytech]

Thanks very much for the informative video.

[@eyescreamcake]

4:14 is not a correct explanation of the magic X. If you have limiting knots like that, then you're going to clip one carabiner to each strand and not need the magic X. You don't clip the carabiners to both strands as shown. Magic X prevents failure in case one of the limited sections of sling were to break.

[@jjcp8419]

Cool vid! but what´s the point of the two knots on top of the magic x?

[@charbonneaufr]

Less extension in the system if either side fails. It minimises the impact on the remaining piece.

[@as3fawf]

What do i need the figure 8 knot for? isn't it going to make the sling easier to break?

[@EggGiant]

Tieing a knot in the sling made the system a more redundant. If he hadn't tied a knot and the sling broke, the whole system would fail. Tieing the knot allows for the case that if the sling were to fail at any point, the whole system would not fail potentially saving the climber. Yes knots reduce the strength of slings by more then half but the force produced by a falling top rope climber is not as much as a lead fall. If you still don't trust a knot you can always use 2 slings instead one.

[@as3fawf]

LukeGoesOut i see.. Thank you!

[@ExploringMountainTravel]

knowledgeable sir I like your channel

[@sergeantcrow]

Excellent presentation...

[@jonafajdsv]

I did not really understand how to set up the equalized anchor. Went very fast with the overhand knots. Not really telling where to put it and why. Hard to follow if it's new to you. but the first anchor was really good!

[@hylandmarkle4050]

+Jonas Fajers, look up the sliding-x technique, that's one name for it. Also, try to find a tutorial that uses what are called limiter-knots, these make the system less likely to shock-load in the event of an anchor (bolt) failure. These techniques can be found in any anchor building book. I won't explain here because it is too complex a topic for a youtube comment. Climb on!

[@dom252]

Thanks for the video! Am I correct in thinking that, in this context and assuming a dynamic rope, a dyneema sling is also acceptable?

[@rachelcrowl9470]

A dyneema sling will not be safe if you put knots in it. I've attached a video from DMM showing what happens when you fall on dyneema that has a knot in it. the material actually shears itself apart... leading to death... dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/knotting-dyneema-vid/

[@kiliandahlem7044]

Why do you need those two overhand knots? Couldn't one just clip in the slings into the two bolts and then do a magic x ?

[@chungfumaster]

+Kilian Dahlem To prevent shockloading should one of those bolts fail.

[@Zyoung1236]

Opposing gate locking carabiners are overly redundant. The opposing gates are only needed if the carabiners are non-locking. One locking carabiner is very safe by itself.

[@hylandmarkle4050]

+ZachTheCommie, safe in many contexts, but not necessarily bomber for top-rope. When top-roping, when is trusting there life to a single point. if that single point fails, the entire system fails. It's important to be redundant in every sense, and two lockers opposite and opposed is the industry standard for a bomber top-rope anchor.

[@Czab]

There are still only one locking carabiner on each bolt and only one sling. So why use two carabiners on the bottom?

[@getahanddown]

The biners sit horribly when you don't oppose the gates. See how nicely they sit and load down the spine opposed? Aloso not "overly" redundant, any less pieces and there is zero redundance so it's only just redundant

[@Maverick72nd]

ZachTheCommie - Another reason for using two biners is that it eases the rope strain through them while top roping. At least thats the main reason I`we been told.

[@ONASPATAGONIA]

getahanddown you are still using only 1 anchor point (rope and harness)

[@bizzarrogeorge]

How does the person get up to the anchor spot to install it for use if he himself is not anchored because he hasn't yet installed it? Do they have to flip a coin to decide who has to risk their life free climbing without ropes to get to the spot to install the anchor so only the other guy can safely climb?

[@Kremit_the_Forg]

Lead climbing would be a way or depending on the spot, you could just walk up to the anchoringpoint.

[@bizzarrogeorge]

@@Kremit_the_Forg thanks for that. I clicked around for beginner videos, and I haven't come across any that took idiots like me through the overview of how a typical climb takes place in regards to how the anchors were attached prior to the beginners lesson in climbing. Thanks for your answer, now I know what to search for! Have a good one

[@MattCookOregon]

You talking about my yacht bro?

[@nerfzinet]

Just for the record, I'm a beginner. It seems to me that using four biners and a single sling like that is kind of nonsensical, if the sling fails the entire system fails. Also, doesn't a knot on the sling weaken it? I don't remember the context but I'm sure I've heard somewhere that knots significantly weaken ropes because they cause the load to be unevenly distributed across the fibers. Basically the same principle you use to rip climbing tape apart. Also, many if not most routes I've climbed outdoors would be extremely difficult to set up like this. The only way I could see to get an anchor like that done would be to clip my harness into the bolts with quickdraws first so I'd be able to hang there and use both hands for setting up the anchor. What we generally do is just place two quickdraws with the biners opposing each other and use that as an anchor for toproping.

[@johngo-jl3uz]

+nerfzinet The first system as he has set it up is completely redundant. The second system he sets up is about 90% redundant, provided you tie the limiting knots in each strand. Tying a knot and slightly weakens a sling, but even with a knot, the load bearing capacity is well above any maximum peak force (which is about 9 Kn) you could ever expect in climbing. If a route has two bolts that are exactly level with each other, then two guickdraws works pretty well. But one bolt is higher than another, or farther to one side, then you need to use a set up like this to get good equalization. And you are correct that you do clip your harness into the bolts with ideally a sling or two while you're setting up the anchor.

[@addsy6396]

The fact that he has tied a knot into it effectively turns it into two slings. If one side fails, then the knot will keep the other side intact

[@H1Hummer]

If you're going to tie two knots into the sling then you probably really do not need the magic X.

[@travisbieber7167]

Don't tie knots it only weakens the slings. Just use two independent slings.

[@EnjoyPlantPower]

Isn’t it standard practice? And it keeps the anchors equalised and prevents shock loads.

[@addsy6396]

This is totally standard practice. Pretty much, any (every?) standard text on anchor building teaches this. Check this out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqHaimesgap-j9E and this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXXbY6ppap2ljbs

[@adventureswithfrodo2721]

You are doing it wrong in a major way.