ROCKSHOX Monarch Plus RC3 100hr Annual Service - air can and damper full service step by step DIY

[@jimig399]

Nice practical way to get it done without the need to buy special tools. I'm a tradesman and appreciate a good work around to get things done. Thanks for the tutorial.

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

Thanks!

[@kensweetser]

Just did mine, followed along and got it done in a couple hours! Bleeding process seemed intimidating at first and I had to rewind like twenty times till I understood what I needed to do 😂. My shock is a monarch plus R and does not have a compression lockout switch but this video still got me through, thanks a lot man 👍

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

Awesome! Glad the video helped.

[@andiwb906]

please give a tutorial on how to replace the oring seal on the rebound knob valve rearshock suntour tri air. Thx 🙏🙏🙏

[@SlimFace2]

Nice Video, what Torque you got at 8:44 min?

[@mtdtechh]

Very helpful! Thank you!

[@tjhell]

Nice video, Thanks for sharing. Can you remember roughly how much oil went in?

[@WinterGameplays]

so..my shock it's doing a weird knock sound when you compress it. It just came back from service... but before the service was already with that knock. It's very weird because you can actually feels something grabbing the travel when the knock happens.....i really don't know what can it be. I read something about the IFP that can be wrong, but I don't know how that would cause a knock on the shock....

[@artioma24]

Thank you, the video helped me a lot 😊

[@DiegoRichartzGil]

What is the distance that you left in the minute 11:08?

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

The spec is 35mm

[@DiegoRichartzGil]

@@Sockets_and_Sprockets thank you very much, you have gained a new subscriber. I am Spanish and my English is not very good. 🙂😉

[@LucasMartinFrey]

Great video such a big help - I could follow along until the bleeding process. After filling the oil in and pushing down the damper body oil leaks from the compression switch and the ifp reservoir does not fill up. Any idea what I did wrong? Help is much appreciated!!!

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

I'm surprised oil is leaking from the compression switch, since in the normal service that doesn't get disassembled. Was it leaking there before? Leaking at the switch aside, you should see the oil level change or air bubbles escaping in the IFP reservoir. As shown at the 12:04 mark, the compression lever should be in the open position and the "compression needle" needs to be pushed down so fluid can flow freely into the reservoir. The needle is the part you can see at 11:35. So at 12:06 I'm pushing that needle open. Also the bleed screw should not be installed in the floating piston during the first part of the bleed. At the moment I can't think of anything else that gets touched during service that would impact the first part of the bleed. Compression lever disassembly is not covered in the service literature. I would try to see if you can get the shock to bleed following the normal bleed procedure before digging into that. It looks like it comes apart with tiny set screws or pins, but I have never done it so be very careful if you decide to take it apart.

[@LucasMartinFrey]

@@Sockets_and_Sprockets Thank you for the reply. I just took everything apart and repeated the process as you show in the video. Second time it did not leak. I assume that the O-Ring at the bottom of the IFP reservoir was not sitting correctly. Thank you again - great video!

[@DaveH1977]

Do you know which seal would cause all the oil to come out of the air valve?

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

You mean the valve for the air spring, or the valve for the IFP? And the air can oil, or the damping circuit oil?

[@DaveH1977]

@@Sockets_and_Sprockets the air spring, and It looks like all the oil has come out of the damping circuit, a big puddle on the floor when I released all the air and compressed the shock, there’s no damping after pumping it back up.

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

Interesting. I would probably do a full service since you'll be in there anyway. But if I had to guess I'd say one of the seals on the inside of the red anodized piece that slides on the damping rod, or the lower tube (can't think of the proper name off hand) has loosened at the threads from the red anodized part. Both would leak oil into the air can.

[@cheskybaba4864]

Why di d you not open the little port in the red piston where the little plastic ball is to bleed the air out? Is it not necessary?

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

I'm not exactly sure which port you mean. The one at 12:30? If so, it's not necessary. The air is bled out at either end of the damping circuit (through the IFP screw or the damper body eyelet screw) in the following steps.

[@cheskybaba4864]

@@Sockets_and_Sprockets Yes that one. I use to bleed it through that and then follow the other steps as you , but it seems unnecessary. I ordered a "complete" service kit - but it didn't have any O-rings for the small piggyback reservoir. Do you remember which site you got yours from?

[@srghyc]

I cannot get the IFP adapter to thread into the cap with the schrader valve. It feels like it threads one rotation then stops. I can't even get it to thread at all when the o-ring is on the adapter tool.

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

That's strange. Are the threads damaged on either the adapter or the IFP cap? Is the schrader valve tightened all the way so it's fully seated down in the cap?

[@LeeVickers]

I'll be giving mine a service soon - what's the strap you use to unscrew the air can? I've seen mechanics use an old inner tube, what works best in your opinion?

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

It's a strap wrench. You can get them from Walmart, harbor freight, lowes, home depot, etc. I got it because I could not get the air can loose the first time I did this using other methods, and I've used it ever since. For under $10, it's worth it to me.

[@milwysva381]

hi would you know the part number for the repair kit? i have rockshox monarch plus rc3 b3 model :) thanks

[@3dgar_hd904]

I did everything as shown, but my damper is now very soft. What can I do? I already have 200psi in it.

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

The IFP should be pumped up to 250 psi. If the damper still moves too easily, it could be lots of air in the circuit and you need to rebleed it, or something could be assembled incorrectly.

[@3dgar_hd904]

@@Sockets_and_Sprockets thanks i did everything as shown and its also assembled correctly I dont know where mistake is...

[@3dgar_hd904]

@@Sockets_and_Sprockets i just rebleeded it and it still moves too softly, I weigh 60kg and have 150 psi pressure on it. Any other Suggestion?

[@LysergicCasserole95]

Do I need to pressurise the damper on the lower shaft?

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

I'm not sure I really understand your question. But the only part related to the damper that you need to pressurize is the IFP reservoir. Other than that, the only thing getting pressure is the air can at the end of the service.

[@LysergicCasserole95]

@@Sockets_and_Sprockets Yeah the valve on the damper shaft. My shock leaked during service and I think it lost oil from the damper part

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

If the damping circuit leaked, you should take it back apart and find the leak (torn oring, missing oring, something not tight), put it back together and rebleed it.

[@Velo1010]

Does anyone know how to service the RockShox RT w/ Auto Sag. I know the procedures are the same as above but what is done with the Auto Sag?

[@dinmammy]

Autosag is held on with two o rings, which means it'll slide around when getting the aircan off. The only service I could think of would be replacing those two o rings.

[@ashjackaman6230]

Great guide!! Just one question…. How much pressure do you stick in the can? Thanks 👍🏼

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

Do you mean the IFP reservoir? That gets 250 psi. If you mean the actual air can, that will vary by bike and rider weight depending on how much sag you want. Personally, mine is at 165 psi. Hope that helps.

[@Juszi37]

my shock got stuck when bleeding.

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

Stuck how? What step were you on?

[@Juszi37]

@@Sockets_and_Sprockets 12:44 after that i cant pull up. compression should be open.

[@Sockets_and_Sprockets]

Yea the compression should be open, and of course make sure the screw is not in the ifp. Otherwise, it should pull up. It doesn't move up easily, you will have to pull pretty hard.

[@Juszi37]

@@Sockets_and_Sprockets screw wasnt on ifp. I couldn' t pull it even when i put hex tool trough shox eylet and pulled with that. had to try again some day :D

[@leewarry6855]

@@Juszi37 I have the same problem as you at 12.44. My ifp screw is out, compression needle pushed open & compression lever open. I push down to bleed oil/air into the ifp but can't pull the damper body back up after. Did you have any luck on your second try?

[@TeamCykelhold]

Heh, compare this to the new rs vivid air where you need a million special tools and several hours the first time you service it.