Rockwell/Porter-Cable Orbital Tiger Saw Review

This is the Porter Cable tighter here saw that started out originally as a Rockwell saw. I do a similar review and basic teardown and performance test that I did in my last video except for I have a better blade this time
277, 627, 677 . .

[@jeffmeyer8399]

I have a vintage 1988 tiger saw. The main feature that makes the sawzall work better is the shoe pivots at the cutting point of the blade. The Tiger saw is offset which makes it bounce around during the cut. You must push the saw against the work to make it cut smoothly.

[@rightlanehog3151]

Thanks for another fine video. For the record, there was a generation of Porter Cable reciprocating saws before the Rockwell name went on the tools. The label says Pittsburgh but I believe this generation of Rockwell tools was made in Tennessee. R.I.P. Porter Cable Syracuse, NY. N.B. They also built these in Guelph, Ontario.

[@bluemantom77]

I got a porter cable nodal 629 6 speed tiger saw reciprocating saw USA made still running I had to replace the shoe have new carbon brushes for it when am ready I plan on repacking it with new grease but it has the same orbital switch this has a rubber overmold over the front an ABS plastic in the back it is built well unlike the Porter-Cable crap they have now

[@BrianWilliams-cq3ys]

Hello sir this is the type of videos I like that old Rockwell and Porter-Cable power tools I don't like the new Porter-Cable power tools and I don't really like the new Rockwell power tools I like the vintage Rockwell power and I am a big fan of Milwaukee power they make a good sawzall one of the best reciprocating saws on the market your tool friend Brian Williams Guthrie Oklahoma take care my friend stay awesome

[@rightlanehog3151]

I am a big fan of the original Porter Cable tools. it is a pity those great old names have been dragged through the mud with today's cheap versions.

[@toolreviewsandrestorations]

I would definitely go with the super sawzall.

[@bluemantom77]

Can you add a rubber cover on this since at the time when this was made they continued with the design for some years???

[@LEGOCAMARO]

I miss when tools look like that heavy metal

[@upsidedowndog1256]

Is that the same Rockwell that made the high speed pnuematic drill motors i wonder? Those are my favorite.

[@Samwilliamsfoundingfather]

Mr max question I have an old Milwaukee 3/8 corded still how do I tell the year of it? Thanks

[@MrFlashx1]

Good test but you really need to fix that vice to something substantial

[@larryleisuresuit9584]

I was looking this up because I own one, I got it out to day to use and realized the last time it was used is when I loaned it to a family member. Only after realizing that the blade was not staying in, I got a new blade out and wanted to change it but hen realized it appears that something is missing from the blade clamp. the block is there and a Allen bolt with a hole all the way through it and nothing else. I then realized I have no clue what this apparatus looks like complete so I have no idea what is supposed to be in there. I came here thinking you would show the changing and or installing of the blade and perhaps I could gimps the parts needed - Boo for me though because after showing nearly every conceivable part fairly well you left out the one part that I need to see. I have looked at online manuals and the part is drawn unclear so that is no good. this is so aggravating , I thought i'd have this tool till the day I died as tough as it is. Last summer I demolished an entire Large Hot tub with it - I cut the entire thing up into pieces that could fit into garbage cans thus saving my back, a trailer trip to the dump and best of all the cost of disposal. My search continues I guess. The hunt for the saw blade Clamp

[@CatusMaximus]

Sounds like that family member broke off the retaining pin if you pull off the top cover over the blade clamp there's the block, the set screw and then a hardened steel pin that is pressed through the actual reciprocating shaft all the clamp does is pull the blade against the shaft and over the retaining pin. You'll have to press out or use a drive pin punch to remove the remainder of the old broken pin and then go to some type of an industrial supply to get a replacement hardened steel dowel pin I believe they are 1/8". Unfortunately you may have to drill a small hole on the opposite side of the tool in order to drive out the pin because it has a shoulder on it. Obviously this part has not been available for decades and is why the reasons why Milwaukee change the quick clamp system because when you buy a replacement kit it also includes a new PIN so you're not in these situations like the old tools were that breaks off and then you're stuck with a useless tool because you can't get that one simple replacement part

[@larryleisuresuit9584]

@@CatusMaximus OH ! YUP You are Right! I didn't realize that shoulder thing on the other side was on a pin that protruded to hold the blade, Its broken off so clean it actually looks factory , even though i could not figure for the life of me what it was for LOL. The Block is still present, the allen bolt with the hole through the center is present , there are thread on the WHITE side of the block but no allen bolt for that/ what is that part for? the threaded side of the block that is white I mean... is that supposed to be empty?