Roll On Plaster ~ Is It Any Good?

[@NAFO_Badger_Brigade]

I was smiling throughout this video just imagining how the pro plasterers would react to using a roller! Roger - you certainly like to live dangerously! You even took a swipe at plasters' love of polishing up!

[@SkillBuilder]

You and me both! They are strangely silent at the moment, but once it gets shared on their forums they will be on here in droves.

[@davidmcarthur1093]

You can't get a plasters to do small jobs so this would be a good to do in that situation

[@shuyelbari8853]

@matthewwright-handyman4392, you never stop learning applying your trade to a project even the most proficient plasterers. He's doing a grand job is Skillbuilder don't be too critical.😅

[@shuyelbari8853]

@@davidmcarthur1093 👍🏽 agree entirely plasterers will only take on entire house project not small piecework jobs.

[@icarossavvides2641]

Any 'professional' who laughs or sneers at new or different technology, without giving it a good try, cannot be a true professional. Surely you should be striving to use the best products and techniques for the job in hand?

[@SteveAndAlexBuild]

My dad did his own Artex so we had it everywhere ! If you brushed up against any walls you would end up in A&E 😱🩸🩸🤣🤣🧱👍🏽

[@lestercranmer2631]

the artex factory used to do trade courses, my sisters ex did one in the early 80's with those funny rubber pronged floats😆

[@SteveAndAlexBuild]

@@lestercranmer2631 😆🧱👍🏽

[@Phantom-mk4kp]

Friend of mine bought a 3 story town house house at a knockdown price, every wall Artexed. They'd even gone over the light switches without removing them

[@SkillBuilder]

xxxx Steve and Alex were commented years ago.

[@stakkerhmnd]

@@Phantom-mk4kp I buy my light switches "pre-Artexed".

[@sodd1000]

Roger is so interesting to listen to. Knows his subject and can communicate so well. Thanks for your videos.

[@SkillBuilder]

Nice of you to say so but there are plasterers out there who would like my head on a spike.

[@Denathorn]

Had to laugh when you were on about sanding, it reminded me of a time when me and 2 other plasterers were working on a job in Sunderland. It was a big busy site, but the problem was we hit the wall (Pardon the pun) with work sometimes due to stuff not being ready. Anyway, one day the only thing we could get on with was a basement corridor ceiling, which wasnt very high and all I used to put it on and trowel it was a little milk crate as a hop up (Shhhhhhhh, hehehe, actually, you could get away with that back in the day in terms of H&S), all in all, a joy. Anyway, it was a day all the big wigs turned up for a tour, the client, the architect, our gaffers, the lot, so the site manager was like, you's lot stay down here and do this ceiling. So we slapped it on, and troweled... And troweled... And troweled... AND... Troweled, and troweled, looking busy! :D It had that many trowels, it ended up smoother then any mirror they put on a telescope in space, when you looked down the corridor, it was like looking across a calm lake, but upside down obviously... Eeeee man, it was shining like a shit house door! :D Painter comes along to paint it when it dried, and he ended up going mental... It was wayyyyyyyy to smooth for his paint, just wouldnt take, his sanding pole wouldnt touch it, he was cherry red pole sanding away trying to make a key and nothing was happening, it was impenetrable! :D In the end, we had to reboard it and skim it again, never attempted a plain old reskim due to fear it would come down! :D But aye, never will I forget the hollowed words of a painter drifting down the that corridor... Which I'll quote... Ahem... "Are they taking the piss?" :D

[@RedRupert64]

I'm in Europe. We've been using the Knauf-type stuff for a good 20 years. Initially it came from the USA. You can start the second coat as soon as you've finished the first. I use a standard stainless steel plastering trowel - it's quick and easy. It does polish up, but I prefer to give it a light sanding a day or so later in order to get a perfect uniform fine finish. It's good stuff when you get the hang of it, and is half the price in Europe. Best to seal before painting.

[@faisalfaruque2849]

What brand do you use? I know the Polish use Atlas GTA

[@RedRupert64]

@@faisalfaruque2849 I use Knauf. They offer several variations - the standard green one, blue that is thicker and lighter, purple for less dust, orange for a super fine finish, and now there's one specially for rolling on. I've just seen Norgips brand appear on our market, and we have a couple of local brands. We have the Polish Atlas products here, but not this plaster. I'm in Latvia.

[@solb101]

How do you seal this stuff?

[@RedRupert64]

@@solb101 There are several brands of sealer. I use a Polish one that is available locally, but diluted PVA is perfect because you can dilute it exactly to your requirement.

[@RedRupert64]

@@solb101 In the old days they used to use diluted emission paint as a primer. This may be worth a try.

[@cartyharley]

Hi Roger I am just a keen Diy’er and needed to skim some walls and found that after pva’ing the walls I used a large paste brush to put the plaster on and then used a large trowel to finish and it worked a treat - great useful content as always.

[@SkillBuilder]

Great idea, brush on is probably better than a roller.

[@davvo1234]

Hi Roger.. I really hope you can reply to this.. I've taken off my wallpaper in the dining room room...the house is prefab and not the most level wall..anyway,when taking of the paper some of the pink plaster you mention has come away with it about 4 mil in depth and a foot around,and theres simular holes 4mm in patches on the other three walls...I want to skim my entire walls with a ready mix simular to yrs..would that be possible over pink plaster and do I need to score the walls and pva it first? Great video and thanks for sharing yr knowledge

[@george9710]

I've seen this a couple of times and always dismissed it due to the much higher costs so thank you for covering it! Your assessment is also spot on, great for small job and perfect for a DIYer but for anything else gypsum is still king.

[@lesleywillis6177]

Higher cost? The plasterers round here come round to quote in a Ferrari!😂

[@Littlelamb2023]

exactly @@lesleywillis6177

[@londonertiger7725]

We used this first product during summer 2020 when you didnt really want plasterers in your home during covid and materials were in short supply. It took time but splendid results, we did the front lounge and to this days its perfect. Dries to a grey smooth colour and easy to paint.

[@catford5383]

Hello, thanks for sharing your experience. Has this product stand the test of time? i.e. does it chip easily or can it withstand wear and tear? Thanks.

[@londonertiger7725]

@@catford5383 Its still good, just need repainting .

[@londonertiger7725]

@@catford5383 Its been 4 years and its in good condition, however any plaster will chip and crack if damaged by furniture . Both rooms are in the lounge, so high use areas, i will not hesitate to use it again.

[@The_Dua]

I tried this stuff a few months back, and it's not bad on ceilings, but if you put in a busy area, it won't stand up to the knocks. If your going to do it once do it proper and have fun taking this stuff of so you can use good old multifinish

[@pcno2832]

It is a bit fragile, at least until it's gotten a few coats of paint. But it's easy to fill any dings or scratches, so I'd never try to take it off.

[@gintem.2194]

Used this stuff to do all my house a year ago. Really pleased with finish. I used to use multifinish in the past but had my friend staying from Norway who recommended it.

[@43bikeguy]

Fascinating video and a brilliant guide. This channel is so bloody good.

[@lestercranmer2631]

the artex factory used to be in my town, my dad did the stair walls back in the 70's, I had plenty of grazed elbows & knuckles, back before it was banned artex used to tip sacks of asbestos fibres into the mix

[@grahammitchell6435]

Just interested did your dad ever suffer with lung related problems ?

[@lestercranmer2631]

@@grahammitchell6435 no, but I'm sure a lot of the workers did, with asbestos & chalk dust floating everywhere.

[@simonmaverick9201]

I must confess to a 'dodgy' way I textured a small area of bathroom wall behind a door and, it worked well. I got a 500ml caulk tube of general-purpose filler and piped it all over the wall. Then I spread it thin with a trowel and textured it with a damp sponge. When it dried, I painted over it. A good hack for small areas/repairs to a wall's decorative finish.

[@damionlee7658]

Doing my toilet room at the moment. Took off the old paper and paint from the various surfaces. The current plaster had be put up over old wallpaper... As for small bumps and undulations, Ordinance Survey should come in and do a contour map of the walls. Less bumps and undulations, more valleys and mountains. On the other hand, it seems firmly attached, and I am very wary of talking it back to take off the paper behind. Goodness knows what I'd find back there; and there is definitely an element of not needing to turn this into a major job.

[@jameswiggins4236]

Hi Roger, I think as much as these companies and us who can’t plaster very well try to de skill plastering, we’re just never gonna get away from the fact that we’re always gonna need a decent spread. You can’t beat the finish from a skilled spread end of.

[@tlangdon12]

I'm not sure I would see it as a product that needs less skill to apply it well. I'm sure if most householders tried it, they would get a very poor result, especially at the edges.

[@peterthebricky]

Bark finish was big in 70s great for covering all the cracks and bumps I remember old Joe doing our lounge in a couple of evenings, one coat of unibond and then on with the plaster , the first extension I built on my house in the 80s me and my brother did bark finish because it was easier and quicker than trying to get a smooth finish

[@abbersj2935]

Having had a couple or three homes wet plastered, I too think that this stuff would be good for small areas, or when wallpapered over. To see though the wonderful finish, rule straight lines and surfaces that some plasterers can acheave ( I marvel at their work) I would still keep to that for large areas or when painting (with paint pads) walls.

[@sharonclaridge]

Having failed on a few occasions to entice one of the lesser spotted plasterers to even look at a couple of walls never mind take the work on I might give this a go. It's only for a couple of vertical stripes on the walls where the previous owner (whom I'm growing to hate more every day) was a bit urgent pulling the paper off and then just slapped vinyl silk over the top to show the lumps off better ... if I could get a plasterer I'd get all the walls properly skimmed but needs must and I don't think it will look any worse when I'm done.....hopefully.

[@grayhalf1854]

Heavy gauge lining paper hides a multitude of sins! More work but you can get a lovely finish with it 👍

[@pcno2832]

I understand the challenge you face, but it's not the previous owner's fault. It was his (or her) house at the time and unless there was an attempt to cover up the state of the walls, you probably paid a lower price because of them.

[@TehJumpingJawa]

I've always soaked the jointing tape in a watered down PVA mix, applied across the joints & left to dry. Come back and skim the next day. Seems to work a treat; have I been doing it wrong?! I'm just a self-taught DIYer renovating a cottage not a plastering god by any means, but I'd definitely stick to traditional gypsum skimming plaster. That white stuff seems like it'd cast no shadows, making it much harder to spot imperfections in the surface.

[@barryford7135]

You can buy a special roller for this. It was on one of Blaine’s videos, plastering for beginners.

[@SkillBuilder]

Good to know, I watch Blaine but missed that one.

[@karisabas]

Hit and miss. I bought it. It's made of black plaster wire. When rolling the knauff max, all those little wirey threads started coming off and I had to pick them all out. Once I finished I pulled as much of the loose wires off the roller. The second time round only one thread came off

[@werty4329]

The best thing about European plaster is that the site is nice white and bright after plaster so makes it a much nicer environment to work in for all trades. It takes the grimness away from the job. Plus, you can sand any imperfection out of it as well and repairs are much easier to do... if there is any.

[@peterthebricky]

I remember some of the plasters made non stainless steel tools rust

[@SkillBuilder]

Carbon steel trowels rust if you don't use them enough

[@joshtaylor1065]

On the other hand British plaster is much stronger than European plaster. You can easily scratch it with your finger nail.

[@ron1martens]

The industrial chemist I do business with is always trying new plaster introduced without the need of any lime. This raises the question, does this plaster contain any lime? I suggested to the industrial chemist to knock up some skimming plaster as no fat is drawn from non lime plaster. Also any fat you do bring up has no strength and comes out. The skimming plaster works real well and provides hardness to the finished product. When I was in Holland in 2004, I worked with my distant cousin the great grand son of my great grandfather who also was a plasterer. So I come from a family of plasterers. We used knauf in Holland as a one coat float and then trowel off as a smooth finish. Although to be wall papered. Great video.

[@elviarodiguez9276]

I want to build three different sheds, one is already set up. I am pleased to find all the kzbin.infoUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 plans and designs for the three sheds included in Ryan's shed plans And how very easy they all are to set up following the detailed instructions on the manual and DVDs. This is simply fantastic!

[@slashingbison2503]

So this might sound wild but I have skimmed my whole bathroom with this against a gypsum coat and its been great, really easy for a novice!

[@adrianturner655]

Thanks for another great video Roger. I miss uk plaster. I live in Germany and, yes, the plaster is very different. I tend to base out with Goldband.. its a setting plaster that stays open for around 30 mins but is difficult to get a paintable surface. So a filler similar to polyfiller.. Ardex 828 which you can double hit or sand with a wall sander and vacuum cleaner gives a paper smooth surface. We're using.. or I'm regularly asked, more and more, for natural products like lime render and plaster. Interesting! FYI:-)

[@DavidLee-cw6ci]

I got that spatula set ages ago, same opinion, amazing!

[@jingleman1]

Where is the link to the spatula set? How does it compare to a speedskim?

[@janetbayford133]

This could just save my life. I hate plastering and am going to try this instead. I’m going to order a set of those spatulas too. Summer doesn’t look so rubbish after all.

[@gregtaylor6146]

Go ahead, waste your time ..... and your money!

[@lxp]

How did it go?

[@janetbayford133]

@@lxp Kind of you to ask. I haven’t tackled the main area I was thinking of using it on because I got side-tracked with a more important project, and I really baulked at the cost of the Knauf product, but I realised that I had some Diall roll on wall smoother on my shelf and I used that to deliver an acceptable wall finish on one section of wall which will shortly disappear behind an enclosure. I thought if it was horrid, it wouldn’t matter. I didn’t use a roller but banged it on with a trowel and smoothed with spatulas (that spatula kit Roger mentioned is ace by the way!). Two coats and it looks pretty good. I also found some Scandinavian roll-on smoother and I am hoping to try that with a roller later this year. Charlie DIYte has a really good KZbin on the Knauf product. The thing about all these products is they don’t need mixing, they are much cleaner and lighter than plaster and they don’t require as much strength in the hands to apply, with roller or spatula. For me this last point is key as I have arthritis and damaged tendons in my hands and I can’t afford to pay a plasterer.

[@ultra2extreme]

I used this on a wall at the beginning of my renovation and it was OK. At the time I didn't know how to skim (pink). Learnt to skim with a friend who used to be a plasterer and never looked back. I'd probably use this (or easifill 60) to sort out a small area but never for a full wall. If nothing else it'd cost a small fortune

[@gregtaylor6146]

I use multi-finish for EVERTHING ....... the clue's in the title.

[@pcno2832]

It's great for walls that are just a little messed up from a bad paint job or wallpaper removal, but I've always through it was overkill on new drywall. If one doesn't feel comfortable using real plaster, a meticulous job mudding and taping the joints can look just as good.

[@michaelloach9461]

Brilliant, thankyou. Just about to do the artexed kitchen ceiling with the knauf max. Your advice is great because it has been a few years since I have plastered anything & totally forgot about the PVA! All the best...

[@grayhalf1854]

I wonder whether the No Nonsense ready-mixed 'plaster' from SF could be applied in this way... when I put it on with a trowel I must admit it was a struggle to avoid the undulations that Roger mentioned in the video. If I have another small wall to plaster I might give it a go with a roller.

[@riccardon-g2j]

The previous owners of my house they had use some roll on plaster everywhere (I know because they left it in the garage) the finish on the wall was terrible and every time I go screw a hole a thin top layer cracks all around the pilot hole. It also feels damp where it's been used..., awful stuff, they be better off with lining paper

[@stepright1]

Hi there. I'm thinking of using this over some rough plaster to level out before tiling kitchen splash back with ceramic tiles. Is it ok to tile over? Thank you 😊

[@aceventura2154]

Going to give knauff pro roll a try tomorrow. Got the same pack of spatulas too

[@melanieparry]

I have just done my conservatory in the ‘Spanish hasenda finish’!!

[@jamescoleman5195]

Thanks once again roger for alot more useful tips....all the best

[@matthewbushkes420]

Great video. I have an entire garage thats already plaster boarded. So for it will be cost of labour and done well and quickly vs me and this stuff over a week. Will wait and see what the quote is.

[@wild4fp]

What happened?

[@shynebox]

Thanks for this; our hallway wall needs going over and I think I'll give the polymer one a go.

[@kendodd8734]

It’s looks a slower process than traditional hawk and trowel application especially with these new larger spatulas like the speedskim that rearly do biz for flattening walls quickly

[@SkillBuilder]

true but for diy it has a place

[@kendodd8734]

@@SkillBuilder 100% right there there’s lots of different people posting plastering tutorials on u tube on how to plaster walls and ceilings and these guys r pros and do it for a living and thus make it look easy (I should imagine there’s thousands of diy,s up and down the land that have gotten in to a right state trying to copy what they’ve seen on these tutorials thinking they can do it) but as we know it’s not as easy as these guys make it look to produce a great finish . So for sure this product looks more user friendly and in being will definitely help the diy fraternity achieve better results

[@murraylonsdale3069]

@@kendodd8734 I agree with you Ken, one can watch a 100 videos (and there's no shortage of good ones, Blaine Gray, Kirk Johnstone, Alex Morley etc) but the keen DIY'er can really only learn by doing, or certainly a combination of 'doing' and 'youtubing' .. lol .. you make a very good point is what I'm trying to say .. !

[@kendodd8734]

@@murraylonsdale3069 yeh these guys r proper spreads they do if day in day out and for years they make it look like child’s play but as we both know it ain’t I’ve known dry lining jointers try there hand at plastering and make a complete hash of it that said these speed skims can certainly make the amateur look a bit more professional

[@julianthornton9076]

@@SkillBuilder s

[@Whokilledkenny1223]

Not done a lot of it but to roll multi finish straight from the bucket it would need to be a lot wetter But i found it in my limited experience with rolling it on To coat it out then roll it just before you would flatten

[@tdub8719]

Nice one Roger. One day I will get round to skimming the bix room. Never skimmed before so thus was really helpful so thank you Roger. Anyone know how the knauf light compares to gyproc easifiller finish?

[@stakkerhmnd]

The "bix" room? Is that where you keep the Weetabix? Weetabix storage room.

[@stakkerhmnd]

@@xxxxxxxx3476 Suspect @tdub8719 was referring to his box room. Or may actually have a dedicated Weetabix storage room? If T Dubs can handle 3 Weetabix then buying in bulk and storing would require a dedicated room.

[@tdub8719]

@@stakkerhmnd as you guessed it was a typo...but...I do actually keep some Weetabix in there lol

[@stakkerhmnd]

@@tdub8719 Wonderful! I've never done a tipo in my lofe.

[@jacko791]

They're very similar, could mix and match them on the same wall without noticing a difference in the finish. The knauf light is kind of aerated so seems like you have to tool it down a bit more to get rid of the bubbles

[@richardmcdougall233]

Toupret smoothing filler best on the market ideal for going over the top roll on filler B n Q sell it large tubs. A smoothing / caulking board great for toupret smoothing l have fixed very bad plastering jobs with this.

[@SkillBuilder]

We did a video on that a few years ago, you can use it over ceramic tiles.

[@Group51]

Wow. That Knauff make me feel like I could actually do this!

[@ottofumbler7267]

Good review 👍🏻. I think for most people, the premix stuff is cost prohibitive. It might be useful if it's a small area, and you need to be in-and-out. Many other premix products are created for this reason. I imagine you just need to decide when the job is large enough to go with bagged plaster. I can see the advantages of using a premix plaster. Appears to be less messy. You don't need half the preparation tools and materials either, or even access to water. I would also imagine that most professional plasterers and the old boys would run a mile from premix. Fair enough... stick to what you know if it works for you. I've never tried plastering with a roller, but I've seen a few of these tutorials where the results are good. As with traditional plastering, it seems that the polished finish that makes all the difference. Can't speak for it's durability though, as I've not seen anyone impact test or longevity review premix v's traditional plaster. It would be interesting to see if premix performs in areas subject to excess humidity or damp. Is it more or less breathable? Does it retain moisture after curing? Is it prone to excessive shrinkage, cracking, or movement over time? Is this premix product more suited to warmer climates? Those spatulas are brilliant for skimming, but they tend to leave lines, and can chatter a bit as your review shows. Easily fixed if you catch it in time with a proper rigid trowel. They're definitely worth the money if you don't do a lot of plastering and don't want to spend the money on a larger rubber skimming tool.

[@paulbeaumont2911]

Brilliant video, very timely. I’m just sorting an old Victoria house, skimming walls etc. I was wondering about using a rollover to apply the skim. I’ve always used a float and hawk but for my next room, I’m on the roller. P.s., isn’t it “norf” not “Knorf”? Also, if skimming older Artex (decorative textured coating) watch out for it being asbestos.

[@grahammitchell6435]

Accents i think, we call it " noof " .

[@SkillBuilder]

It is a bit like that bloody Hyundai advert, if they want to give their product a funny name they need to get over people mispronouncing it.

[@42RHD]

@@SkillBuilder 🤣

[@ianscottuk]

Whats the difference between Knauf 'pro roll' and Fill & Finish or airless? My local decorators shop have encouraged me to try this as a DIY skim over lath and plaster as a skim coat, but I am sure the tub was fill and finish or airless. They actually do it with a spary gun, but thought it should roll.

[@thfc4745]

Hey Roger, did you use Masking Tape ? that didnt look like joint tape to me lol. good info as always.

[@SkillBuilder]

Well done, I was waiting for somebody to spot that. I could not but a roll of joint tape for love nor money. I tried three merchants who looked at me like I was from the planet Zog so I grabbed some masking tape for illustrative purposes only. I bet I now find the roll of jointing tape that I have has kicking around for years.

[@thfc4745]

@@SkillBuilder Toolstation stock it, did I win a prise ? :)

[@peterthebricky]

​@@SkillBuilder I've got some in my loft and a roll of the corner tape

[@AA-wg9jk]

do i need to apply PVA first?

[@barrysmall8645]

Not so long ago when the gypsum mines in Notts were closing ,it was decided that all factory chimneys producing sulphurous smoke were fitted with calcium catchers. Calcium plus sulphur equals Calcium carbonate otherwise known as gypsum... As a plasterer the texture was was much more stickier and was rubbish to work with..

[@SkillBuilder]

British Gypsum got a lot of this gypsum from the power stations in East Leek. It is used in plasterboard and, I suppose, it also turns up in bagged plaster. Maybe it is best suited to Bonding and Hardwall.

[@diarmuidoshea2726]

It's geat stuff the roll on plaster.. it can be used on its own but it takes time to set if its thick. Fill all holes and do the taping with joint filler rub it flush as possible and let dry don't spend too long trowling the joint filler just make sure its flush. Then a little sand and clean amd use your roll on then as thin as possible. From experience it's easier to add more after harder to sand. The real secret is not to over fill leave it dry and sand and if needed add a light bit where needed....

[@SkillBuilder]

Good advice

[@jb7391]

Great video! Would you recommend to use it on old plaster wall or only on new plaster board? (old victorian terrace house)

[@James-z9j8w]

I never let anything defeat me but this ready made Polycell plaster mix is absolutely SH*T!!!!!!!

[@skimmingstoness]

Anyone remember early 2000's they used to push that Polycell Smoothover stuff, tub and £30, roller and smoothing tool another £20. You rolled it on, smoothed it over and then had to sand all the lines. It was a completely useless product and yet thousands of people watched the advert and bought it.

[@EnergyAssessor-du3yn]

can you put this over waterproof / sound proof plasterboard ? I have had lots of have a go cowboys and this product looks like something I could try.

[@alext8828]

The best product is the one you're adept at using. Marshalltown rubber squeegee? Hmm. Gotta try that.

[@SkillBuilder]

That squeegee saves a lot of work.

[@gerrykelly2440]

Trust me, that's expert level compared to my plastering!

[@therealdojj]

Used some plaster recently to fill don't gaps and it's listed as only being good for a few mm thickness How thick a layer will this do? Thanks

[@graham4324]

I'm looking to use this over bathroom paint.. a window shows all the imperfections currently. Would PVA be the best to prime over the bathroom paint?

[@davet9900]

Great video Roger

[@hroyd]

What would you use on an external corner with this? Thin set bead or something special?

[@SkillBuilder]

yes thin set bead

[@hroyd]

Thanks

[@ChAzZMaNZZ]

You'd want to avoid using PVA right? Because it is water soluble? You may risk the PVA delaminating the plaster off the substrate?

[@royb2251]

@ 9.39 ,I think you’ve painted Batman !! 😂 Great tutorial,joking aside. Keep ‘em coming please 👍🏻

[@topher.m]

Do you think this could go over paint without having to key/scratch up?

[@jamesbithell3435]

Not sure if you'll see this but do you give it any time in-between rolling it on and working it, cheers

[@SkillBuilder]

yes just give it an initial flatten out and then leave it to go off a bit before you smooth out the lines. It is very forgiving.

[@jamesbithell3435]

@@SkillBuilder that's where I went wrong then how long roughly would you leave or do you just tell by feel

[@SkillBuilder]

If you push your finger into it and it hardly leaves a dent you are ready to trowel it up.

[@sugarpuff2978]

Useless bit of information for everyone but Knauf isn't far from me in Kent. I also used to deliver to them back in the day.

[@knightbeat]

Is it possible to use this white plaster stuff to get rid of blemishes, scratches and trowel marks on an already done gypsum (multi finish) plaster?

[@SkillBuilder]

yes, you can use this or a product called Easi Fill which can be sanded very easily.

[@knightbeat]

@@SkillBuilder thanks a lot. I think I have used easy fill powder before which is the same brand as multi finish. But, it was to fill around electric backboxes. I also bought something called toupret interior filler which I'm not sure about for this particular application.

[@clivelockwood3236]

Lot easier with multifinish , think you would end up with a much better job.

[@callum9572]

Can you use this over an existing skim? I.E... you take old wallpaper off and use this over the old skim

[@SkillBuilder]

yes for sure

[@rob5944]

Looks good, I wonder if they do a breathable one for older houses....

[@pcno2832]

If it's anything like the joint filler they sell here in the U.S. , it's very breathable. I did a basement wall with joint filler and it has been fine for 20 years; there was one leaky crack that only messed up a very small area, and even that looks good after sealing and patching it.

[@rob5944]

@@pcno2832 yes, I always fail to appreciate that overseas houses must have used similar building materials in times gone by lol. My wife complains about a small amounts of damp in our oldish (1883) cottage. I rub it down and paint over it, I say best let sleeping dogs lie if it isn't too bad.

[@jasonkingsbury1456]

Hi I'm going to be rendering my own walls(never done it before )and was thinking of buying the premixed render is it any good or would it be better to mix my own

[@SkillBuilder]

The bagged render is better but it is a lot more expensive. If you do a 6 washed plastering sand 1 hydrated lime and 1 cement you will have a nice workable mix. You just need to make sure you keep the mix accurate. The best way is with a small bucket so you can measure quantities.

[@jasonkingsbury1456]

@@SkillBuilder thank you 👍

[@tdub8719]

Could I get a smooth finish with a plastic speed skim or do I need the steel spatula?

[@SkillBuilder]

If you are using the Knauf product you can get a good finish with a plastic Speedskim. I would have used mine but I wanted to make this job applicable to people who don't want to spend a fortune on tools.

[@davylad4804]

Does the Knauf product have any water resistant properties or is it as porous as the gypsum product

[@ilyaognev2361]

I'd like to see the ready-mix surface after it completely dried. Up to me, the thickness of the applied layer is slightly thicker than it really needed. I predict the cracks and rough surface after it dried.

[@TundeEszlari]

King content.

[@007JHS]

a couple of questions... why plaster over plasterboard. i've always just taped the joints and plastered those along with the indentations of nails or screws.

[@SkillBuilder]

some people do taping and jointing while others prefer a skim coat. In my area of London and Surrey it is all skim coating. In Scotland it is all taping and jointing.

[@007JHS]

@@SkillBuilder Our current home 20 years old in Norfolk was taped and joints skimmed over. All our homes in Australia were just taped and joints skimmed... that is the norm in Aust....thanks for your response, much appreciated.

[@bozzface1]

Do you need to pva

[@mummyjanny1]

Where is the link

[@michaelplays2449]

Great video Roger !! thanks

[@carlfielding13]

What's the feel of the wall after? I want to use it but reviews say it's chalky?

[@jbclassics]

When you say this will never replace traditional plastering. I think this is probably the thin end of the wedge. With the skill shortage this product will entice your diyers and jobbers to do the smaller jobs. The finish will not be as good and it is certainly a load of messing around. However the finish is probably good enough to keep the inexperienced diy attempter happy 😅😅 I learnt to plaster with my dad and as a plasterer would have most of it done by the time you got your roller loaded up as would most decent Plasterers. That is if you are prepared to pay to entice them away from a full day's work. A lot of people seem to forget that even a small job takes time, to get there, set up, do it and clean up. Even tradespeople have overheads, mortgages and want a reasonable standard of living. The days of doing it for £20 have all but gone. Just a small point but I tend to use sbr more than pva now it is much easier to use and kills the suction dead. A bit dearer but in my opinion a better product and you can plaster over it after about 20mins. Does away with having to go the day before to coat it.

[@SkillBuilder]

The whole point is that this product saves you having to get a plasterer in and, for small job, there is no reason why you shouldn't get acceptable results. On the PVA front, I have used SBR for years mostly in render but if it dries there is no adhesion benefit. The fact that PVA re-emulsifies makes it idea for plaster but no good for external render.

[@Crushwokery]

I do like you content Roger and the fact that you'll try things most of us would think, "Seriously"? I'm not a pro plasterer but do all my own plastering with equal results but you wouldn't call me lightening. Sorry Kid, I'm not convinced, trowel 'n' hawk for me. Only once did I bother to polish my finish and when it came to emulsion the walls I was like a one legged man in an arse kicking competition. The emulsion just wouldn't go on as it should and took if memory serves me right 4 or 5 coats to get decent coverage. I know some plasters that don't like the decorator who coming in after them, they will put a glass like finish on one wall just to p*ss them off 🤣 I would liked to have seen that wall with a darkish emulsion on it to really be able to see how it finished up 😉 Interesting vid non the less 👍

[@andrewholden5575]

Would you cover up artex? Or remove it ?

[@SkillBuilder]

cover it, some of it has asbestos so leave it where it is

[@MrSmid888]

I find over polished gypsum doesn’t take a must coat or first coats very well.

[@fraserp2377]

As a diyer I am interested in the advantages of this product, but I need to do quite a large area. Is there an equivalent product that is cheaper that I could mix myself? I can only find the knauf pre mixed in 1 size. Is something like gyproc easyfill a valid alternative?

[@SkillBuilder]

All the Easy fill products will do a similar job as will jointing filler.

[@fraserp2377]

@@SkillBuilder brilliant thanks 👍

[@faisalfaruque2849]

Try Atlas GTA

[@eric6360]

Can this product be tiled over?

[@SkillBuilder]

yes

[@eric6360]

@@SkillBuilder Thanks.

[@AntonyGoodall]

Wouldn't want the job of cleaning that roller. Interesting video as always Rog!

[@SkillBuilder]

It is easy, just leave it in water for a few days

[@MatthewMann-vy4jo]

We have a quarry in Easington for gypsum

[@hoobsgroove]

What you using a wool roller is it not better to use a sponge roller?

[@SkillBuilder]

It may be but that is not what it says on the back of the tub.

[@Moji-mw3je]

Can this be used to cover artex?

[@SkillBuilder]

yes. I would use the slightly thicker one. Artex also makes a coating to cover their Artex but that is like rewarding them for producing a naff product in the first place.

[@Moji-mw3je]

@Funny and useful. Thanks.

[@alexp1054]

What amazes me the need to get the wall pan flat in the first place! Getting rid of the imperfections takes time and it looks boring-wonder when it became the fashion and when it'll go out of fashion again...

[@jamesmartin2325]

I’m guessing this is similar to normal plaster in the sense you wouldn’t want to use it over woodchip and the such?

[@SkillBuilder]

If the woodchip is on there and hard to get off it is perfectly possible to skim it. I have seen it done a lot back in the 1970's

[@murraylonsdale3069]

I love your vids Roger.. but I think we may be missing some vital principles here .. such as '2 coating', 'timings', 'closing in', 'speed skim versus trowel', 'wet trowel', 'dry trowel', and so on .. in short WHY the tried and trusted method used by plasterers up and down the country achieves superb results and WHY the DIY'er will almost certainly be doomed to failure with any of these so called 'roll on' products .. might be alright for the cupboard under the stairs which you may have mentioned .. may I add it's VERY rare to see you in a department with less than expert skill and knowledge .. I'm a big fan and watch all your stuff .. cheers Rog 🍻

[@SkillBuilder]

Hi Murray I knew this would get professional plasterers hot under the collar. I didn't invent it but it is worth a look and, for some people, it is solution. I don't think it will put anyone out of work.

[@murraylonsdale3069]

@@SkillBuilder Thanks for gettting back, totally agree, always worth alerting the homeowner / DIY'er to things that make the 'undoable' ... err .. 'doable'. Power to you Roger !

[@Disposalist]

When you have to spend the majority of the time finishing the surface, what's the advantage of rolling it on instead of just troweling it on in the first place? Anyway, interesting to see thanks.

[@SkillBuilder]

If you can't use a hawk and trowel this is an alternative.

[@peterwooldridge7285]

What is that pink plaster you use over there?

[@MrMax4music]

Its gypsum. Thats the colour it is. That particular one in the orange bag is multifinish which can be used on plasterboard (sheetrock/drywall in the usa) or over a base plaster coat.

[@Pete.Ty1]

👍👍👍 Brilliant, thank you.

[@jonaredtyke]

Tears of laughter 😂

[@RyoHazuki1]

Lining paper never put a plasterer out of a job so I'm not sure why this product gets them so riled up. To me, I can get a decent finish with it and I wouldn't pay for a plasterer in anyway so for that it's a decent (if a bit expensive) product.

[@TAURUSPLASTERING]

i think rodger has been watching too many Vietnamese slurry plasterers on youtube 🤣🤣🤣 great video as always love the content ✌🏼+ ❤

[@thegrandmuftiofwakanda]

'ello I'm that Roger Busy Bee off that Skill Builder channel wot you all like and today I'll be showing you how to get plastered.

[@Phantom-mk4kp]

As a DIYer first time I tried plastering the plaster went of so quick that after a few minutes the plaster was setting solid under the trowel. The plaster was producing lots of heat. Put me off forever. Any suggestions why I had this problem

[@phoenixkali]

Was it a very warm day? I had that when I was plastering in the 30° season which was great for setting on the wall but a bugger to get it on in the first place. I just kept adding water and whisk but giving off heat is normal, like a plaster cast.

[@Phantom-mk4kp]

@@phoenixkali possibly warm, UK summer so likely under 30. The last trowel load actually created a sold wedge under the trowel as I drew it up the wall, soft to solid in say less than 2 minutes. I was only doing a door sized area, never got more than a quarter done with each mix

[@kjgreen3]

@@Phantom-mk4kp Best before date exceeded on plaster? I use out of date plaster (by a couple of months) on small reveals/patch repairs as it sets up in minutes after mixing. Alternatively bag you used stored in humid/damp conditions and had already started going off before being opened.

[@SkillBuilder]

phantom 21 How long ago was this. Plaster used to be a very different product when I started. The Siraphite product took a lot of skill.

[@Phantom-mk4kp]

@@SkillBuilder 40 years ago, pink stuff. Left me suffering with nightmares despite counseling, haven't been able to get close to a bag of plaster since

[@RyoHazuki1]

Great vid.