Royal Enfield Bullet 500 is Acting Up

It looks like I'm having some parts issues again, either with the new carb or the head gasket. This bike likes to fight me, but it'll get solved. It's all part of the fun! #motorcycle #royalenfield #motorcyclelife #losangeles

[@WOLFIE-96B-UK]

I had a similar problem years ago although not on an Enfield. It was an issue with the float bowl gasket. I hope you get it running perfectly soon!

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Thanks and yeah, I’ve been thinking about this all day and I’m sure it’s something with the carb. I’m going fix the float and then take it apart. I just don’t see the issue being anything else

[@b.titanillabiro2771]

intermittent loss of compression is usually down to decompressor cable adjustment , float height should be between 24=26 mm from float bowl base , check rubber inlet manifold is fitted right way around, ditch the zip tie and fit correct cable abutment and check for correct free play in throttle cable ,if youve fitted a new throttle cable beware 350 cable has slightly shorter inner than 500 version and are often supplied incorrectly, finally stick with the composite head gasket as its the solid copper version than is prone to leaking ,youll need to retighten head bolts anyway after its run in a bit

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

I don’t have a decompressor, so that’s out. I usually set the float right at 25mm, but didn’t measure this time (foolishly). That will be remedied. The rubber inlet manifold is fitted correctly and new. The zip tie cable rig is temporary, but there’s zero issue there. Cable is correct and everything is smooth. No sticking of the cable or slide in the carb. If I go to the head gasket (it’s not looking like an issue), a solid copper one will definitely be used. And yes, the head bolts will be checked and tightened once I can get some miles on it. Thanks for watching!

[@martincvitkovich724]

MY old BSA did that, it was a carb problem, with a simple solution.

[@willywonka8730]

Had the same problem. Dirty fuel.

[@martytoal6547]

Do a compression test to check rings ,leak down test for valves, I’d definitely suspect the carb and inlet manifold,try and run the motor on idle and spray a starting fluid spray around the inlet,if there’s a leak the extra gas will get drawn in and the revs will rise( my carb has a slide adjustment screw on the right hand side,yours has a hole,is something missing? Try the old carb if you still have it👍🏻

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

I definitely think it’s the carb. I unfortunately sold the old one to a friend. I sprayed for vacuum leaks earlier after it revved the first time at a light. No leaks found. Nothing is missing on the carb (screws), just just be a slightly different design

[@kachmi]

Always check the carb manifold to the intake on 500's. If you are using original Enfield or Indian manufactured rubber manifold, and it's a bit old, they tend to rot and crack causing intermittent vacuum leaks symptoms. Seeing that you aren't using an airbox type filter, the carb is hanging off the manifold alone and will bob up and down especially at low idle on the lumpy 500 jiggling the cracks and letting in air. I change my manifold out every couple of years for this exact type of problem when it begins to stall or choke out.

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Thanks, but the manifold is aluminum and the hose between it and the carb is new. This isn’t a vacuum leak, most likely an issue with the carb. I’m going to take it apart soon and check everything.

[@twostroke350]

Very first thing I'd check is fuel flow. I can't remember if you have an OEM fuel tap but if you do, they are notoriously bad. Flow can reduce to a dribble. It could rev up if running lean, it could cut out if it runs out altogether. Paul Henshaw at performance classics had two 500 bullets in recently and they both had this issue, the rubber gaskets had too small a hole in and on one of them it was deformed to the point it was totally obstructing the inflow. Two other things that occurr to me that I've seen before is the main jet unscrewing itself with the engine vibration or the throttle needle coming adrift from the throttle valve (either pushing up-out or the circlip coming off so the throttle is closed but the needle is way up). Worst case, (and also a possible, known thing with Indian bullets) is the steel exhaust valve seat insert being loose in the head, this can bleed air in causing a lean running state and cause intermittant loss of compression as it moves in and out of the alloy head. So if you have the head off, pop the exhaust valve out and bash the head on the table a few times to check the valve seat doesn't fall out. Hitchocks do make an oversize one. Cometic make a modern composite head gasket with a proper fire-ring for them.

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

It’s not the fuel flow - new tap and hose, and I can see it moving perfectly. I’ll probably disassemble the carb and check everything. I thought of that as well (and checking the circlip). And yeah, there are things to check on the cylinder head/valves if the carb isn’t the issue. I’ll keep everyone posted

[@stup1299]

Welcome back and happy New year ! If it isn't the float height and needle jet, maybe check the jets and mixture/air screw setting. Other than that I'd go for the ignition timing. You'd hear a head gasket (sort of a thit thit noise) and something wrecking the bore should make some noise. Before you check the head, try starting the bike and spraying Quick Start around the inlet gaskets - it should speed up if there's an air leak. I'd reckon that's unlikely since you aren't getting any backfires.

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

The mixture/air screws are correct (or close enough for now). I had sprayed when it happened the first time and there’s no indication of a vacuum leak. I agree about the head gasket as there’s no typical symptoms of a bad one, other than this bizarre high idle issue. And yeah, no backfires

[@stup1299]

Could be the float height is set too low allowing fuel to fill the float chamber when idling.@@Cyclingwithgasoline

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

@@stup1299 That or definitely something with the carb.

[@jonyoung6405]

Beautifully done!

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Thanks!

[@warwickwearing5042]

Love your videos. Try an airbox rather than the pod filter. It made a difference for me

[@warwickwearing5042]

I am at a similar stage with mine. I had it rebuilt and its now not going. I have a valve that is stuck and a and a leaking head gasket, amongst other things. Haven't looked at it for a year

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Thanks! And these bikes sure are temperamental. I like the pod filter and the carb is properly jetted, so it shouldn’t be an issue.

[@johnpackwood5454]

Glad to see you are back. If it were me I would suspect the advance of the ignition. I have points and centrifugal advance on mine but had similar issues with the distributor moving on the tapered shaft. Hopefully you won't need to strip the engine again. Hope you get it sorted.

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Yeah, I was thinking maybe the timing, but I’ve never personally heard of timing issues alone creating such a high spontaneous idle. Pinging, power issues, etc. from timing, but high idle? And thanks, hopefully I don’t have to strip this thing.

[@twostroke350]

@@Cyclingwithgasoline I agree, in theory maximum idle speed should co-incide with optimum ignition timing. Advance and retard beyond this point and idle should become slow and/or erratic.

[@ProSimex84]

Its happened to me on my xs650, just as you described. ​@Cyclingwithgasoline

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

@@ProSimex84 Did you find a solution?

[@ProSimex84]

@Cyclingwithgasoline yeah. Reassemble the advance mechanism that vibrated itself loose. I don't trust that electronic ignition you have on there.

[@leondown6869]

Sounds like an air leak between carb and cylinder. The little ferrel (spelling?) fitting throttle cable into twist......my bodge was a small cheap 5? 6? mm socket ...cut a slot in it for cable to slip thru voila home made ferrel....I carry spares with spare cables..clutch, throttle front brake. These bikes keep us "honest". Best wishes.

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

I’m taking the entire carb apart soon. I think that’s the issue (something’s not right). The cable end of the carb at the top is tight, if that’s what you were referencing

[@martincvitkovich724]

I feel your pain. I have a 2003 Road King with 118,500 miles that always ran good. Last year the fuel pump made noise so I put a new one in along with a new fuel filter and now the bike is running like crap. I hope it is just a bad fuel problem, but it could be a number of things with that modern ignition and FI, I know nothing about and have no way of diagnosing it.

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

All part of the fun… 😩

[@ussweeneyd]

I’d say check your decompressor valve. May be not seating sufficiently.

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

I deleted it and it’s just a solid plug now

[@felixVanDiemen]

Still keen to hear how you went with the Bullet 🤞

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Yes, I need an update video for sure! It's been up and down. Sometimes it's good, sometimes not. I think some of the many parts I got are a bit "off" as India isn't known for stellar quality control with these older models. I have a new Amal carb that's about to go in. The one I got was never right, from a bad float to bad jet seating. We'll see if this does it

[@felixVanDiemen]

@@Cyclingwithgasoline I reckon that should do the trick.

[@-old-school-motorcyclesltd]

I definitely think it’s the carb 😊😊 You need to get the carb apart or pop a new carb on temporarily Valves : Just check there is good oil circulation coming through the rockers and the valve springs are getting oil My bullet I’m doing wasn’t getting oil to the valve springs and the valve spring stuck and lost compression 😮 I found a leak in the joint of the rocker pipe 😊 check the gap on the valve stem Not the head gasket you could put some soap bubbles round the cylinder to check If there is fuel starvation for a short while then yes the revs will go up My first thoughts were throttle! or vacuum leaks Do your carb 😊😊 Good luck phil

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Thanks and yes, I’ll be starting with the carb. Oil is circulating properly to the top end and valves (already checked earlier) and a vacuum leak is very doubtful given the symptoms and everything is new. I’m taking the carb apart this weekend

[@user-gv3bt5mi3o]

fuel tap is slowing the fuel flow check the o ring

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Fuel tap and hose are new and flow is perfect. It’s definitely not that. Thanks for watching!

[@TexasREGuy]

Sounds like a lean condition, potentially carb float height is too low.

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

I’m definitely thinking the float at this point. The carb is off and I’m going through it tomorrow 👍

[@TexasREGuy]

Cool, any updates? We’re excited to hear about recent updates

[@michaelking7499]

Check that the carb isn’t sucking in air on the manifold to the engine, I put silicone on the manifold, that fixed the miss fire 🔥 on my 1994 500 Bullet,

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Everything is new and sealed properly. And if there was a leak, it’d be consistent. This problem comes and goes.

[@michaelking7499]

I have had trouble with erratic engine running on more than one bike, most of the time it’s the Electronic ⚡️ ignition box 📦, but unless you change it it’s difficult to check ,

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

@@michaelking7499 At this point, everything is pointing to the carb. Either the float or something with one of the jets, etc. I’m going to take it apart this weekend

[@geoffm5888]

Fuel/air issue to me. Vac leak, jets too large (go with a 27.5 pilot jet), pod air filter not allowing enough volume of air? Good luck.

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Not a vacuum leak, but definitely a carb issue imo. Will be taking it apart soon

[@willywonka8730]

You are overthinking it. Dirty fuel or air leak. Your tank may be rusted.

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

New, clean gas after tank had been emptied and cleaned. Definitely not that

[@robertspeakman1174]

Try checking the needle is in securely

[@martincarmichael9044]

Are you SURE the clutch isn't slipping when you are kicking the engine over? If it is, you certainly won't get full compression. Just a thought. Good luck!

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Thanks and it’s definitely not the clutch. You can feel and hear it - the piston is cycling through fully, but looser without full compression. It’s also a brand new clutch. Thanks for watching

[@leaveittobaker]

We're with you on this ride my friend. Keep the faith and thanks for the great content.

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

@@leaveittobaker Very much appreciated!

[@felixVanDiemen]

You poor bloke, you have had a hard time. I own an almost identical bike to yours. I really don't think it is the head gasket, even though it was separating, the fact that it is clamped down so tightly will fix that. It only sounds wrong while it's idling. If it were one of the serious issues you mention it would sound sick while riding, but it doesn't it sounds just like my 2005 with identical Hitchcocks exhaust. I really think it is an air/fuel mixture issue, and the problem lies with the carby. Good luck my friend, I have faith in you!

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Thanks and yeah, I’ve been thinking about it all day and I agree with your points. I see no evidence that it’s the head gasket, valves or a problem within the cylinder. It’s got to be the carb. I’m going to take it apart and see what I can see, and hopefully get this last issue knocked out.

[@felixVanDiemen]

Do you still have the old carb? Switching it back may be a good way to help narrow down the problem,@@Cyclingwithgasoline

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

@@felixVanDiemen Unfortunately I sold it to a friend

[@felixVanDiemen]

@@Cyclingwithgasoline I would also suggest writing an email to Hitchcocks Motorcycles. I know you have purchased quite a few parts from them. They are incredibly knowledgeable and very helpful, especially if you clearly set out the problem and bike’s history and model. Just a thought 🤔

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

@@felixVanDiemen Thanks, but I already talked to them on the phone and they’re not sure. I’ve had hit or miss luck with them in general - they’re knowledgeable to a degree and it depends on the bike. They’re a great resource, but have proven a bit problematic as well (in my experience at least).

[@silverback3926]

What about your air fuel mixture screw or idle screw? Improper fit , poor springs or backing out? Runner boot connecting carb to engine. Loose small crack?

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

Checked them all and all is well. I’m going to remove and disassemble the carb and make sure the jets, etc. are fine and seated properly. And go from there if needed

[@raypayne1979]

Unbelievable criticism of your bike, seems sort carb out, are jets correct size? Air leaks seems probably another cause. When you say NEW?? why you replaced piston clips?

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

It’s looking like I have a bad carb at this point. The jets are right, but designed for an Amal carb and I think the slide specifically isn’t 100% compatible with the stock carb. The solution is probably just getting an Amal carb for it. And yes, the clips between the piston and rod are new, but I doubt that’s an issue.

[@jonyoung6405]

@@Cyclingwithgasoline I purchased an Amal for my " Electra" (AVL) engine , and I am glad I did. I got the kit from Hitchcocks.

[@martincvitkovich724]

Main jet loose?

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

I’m removing the carb and taking it apart. Everything will be checked 👍

[@chetansutharx]

Do you have instagram handle mate?

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

I do, but I’m trying to stay somewhat anonymous on here for now. My IG isn’t very exciting, either 😂

[@chetansutharx]

@@Cyclingwithgasoline I need some help, I need the part number/code of the stock handlebar on your classic 500. I am getting trouble finding one. I do have the handlebar but it is chrome plated, not suitable for my requirements, I need the black powder coated one’s part number, If you can help me in this.

[@Cyclingwithgasoline]

@@chetansutharx Part numbers for these can be hard to find. You can easily have your chrome one powder coated by a 3rd party or buy a new one somewhere like eBay. They’re readily available, new in box.

[@chetansutharx]

@@Cyclingwithgasoline I got the chrome plated one’s part code from hitchcocks but I am getting trouble finding the black one’s part code. You can give me your classic 500’s chassis number, I can get the part code from that. That’s the reason I was asking for your instagram account in the first place.