RTX 8000 is back for warranty

For repair, please contact me by following the link in the channel ABOUT page.
I accept donations via PayPal at paypal.me/tonynameless
and STRIPE donate.stripe....
Tools, schematics, boardview files etc are available here
drive.google.c...

[@danielhulan3058]

Tony, UFD Tech mentioned you in one of their videos. Thought you'd be happy to see that.

[@northwestrepair]

i watched his last video earlier. I must have missed it or it was not todays video ?

[@satria4195]

The one that has bugs?

[@danielhulan3058]

It was one of their shorts. He mentions you talking about the core scam. As of right now it's the second short sorted by latest. Your video is in the thumbnail and their short is called scamy 4090s

[@danielhulan3058]

I'd like to see your analytics over the next few days. Let's see if your subs boost.

[@northwestrepair]

@@danielhulan3058 ah yeah I saw. It's funny how people assume it's a working GPU when in fact it was completely dead 😂 and GA102 would never work on a 4090 PCB to begin with. Either way, it's nice to see views boosting a little. Help to pay the bill.

[@ZeZZooo]

I learn nothing by watch your videos. However I love watching you figure out what is wrong, and repair it if you able 👈😎

[@OnlyDss]

EE here and seeing a lot of questions about the compound and what it’s for. The generic name for the compound is called under fill. The material is placed around the devices (and flow underneath as you can see in the video) to essentially bond the device and the PCB together. Why do this? Simple answer, board reliability. Thermal cycling is one set of reliability testing that is generally done to PCB assemblies and is run from -40C to 125C unpowered. This temperature range causes the PCB and the devices to expand and contract. The PCB and the device have different coefficients of thermal expansion and contraction and because of this miss-match puts a lot of stress onto the solder joints of a device. This miss-match is particularly damaging to devices with ball grid arrays (like the DRAM) and will easily crack a ball. Underfill helps mitigate this miss-match (to an extent) and allows for the assembly to pass thermal cycling reli tests. Additional information - for high reli designs typical number of cycles from -40 to 125c needs to be equal to or exceed 1000 cycles, less critical designs will require 500 but is up to a company to decide their reliability levels. Without underfill it is difficult to even hit the 500 cycle threshold. Why Nvidia chooses to underfill some GPU PCBs vs others probably depends on the series and where their target use case is.

[@Patrik6920]

might be worth mentioning that this devices ships wourldwide, and during transport can experience conditions thats not normal... eg -40 to 100 c , by shipping containers, flight and rail transport.. its usually not a viable solution ship relative cheap stuff in enviromental stable containers..

[@whismerhillgaming]

Thanks

[@matthiash.4670]

One addition: Beside themal cycling (what is true) the under fill gives more mechanically rigidity in common. This is the main reason for under fill here and the reason why it's just on the chips facing towards the PCIe interface. This point is heavily stressed, especially on themal cycles where FR4 might soften and deform more easily. Under fill is also used in cases where moisture might be a problem, because liquits get sucked under the BGA and keeps there for a while. Scenarios with vibration and resulting PCB flexing is also a target application for such componds. Therefore there are a range of different under fill componds, specially made for one purpose or another. It's not just one specific application, as like shown in the initial comment. It's just one of the more common ones.

[@maicondouglas8047]

I worked a while in a big online store, and i was authorized to RMA cards directly from some brands in Brazil. I have a great clue about it, considering the percentage of RMA cards. If u put some heavy cards like this in your hand with the fan turned to ground, with one hand on the pci express and another in the shield what is screw in the case, you will notice that: 1) Its a triangle between the stable fixed points of contact of the card, that came from the top of the sheld to the back of PCI Express; 2) Heavier cards, clearly have easy way to bend if installed in the case; 3) The point of bend of the card will be beneath one side of this triangle. Taking note of that, some brands actively worked to avoid warranty costs, installing this epoxi glue in the memory modules near the back of PCI Express Connector and the last memory module near the shield screw of the card. I hope u all understand my toughts, english is not my native language and im trying to avoid talk about some NDA related details. Im not enginner, just a technican that work reparing eletronics like motheboards, laptops and videocards.

[@Patrik6920]

@Mike1984-lc9rh external condition can rise the tempearature considerbly inside a container.. thers also sevral studies on this... ..on company that shipped copiers mad a study that revealed their cargo was exposed to -29 c to 60 c during transport... ..during sea transport temperatures rises to about 50 c inside painted cantainers exposed to sun .. at a depot, temperatures can increase dramatilally as thers no and breeze and limited convection to cool them...

[@Captain-Mieste]

About compount removal: You need to visit a digital signs print shop in your area, and ask them if they use "hard solvent" inks for long lasting outdoors sign prints. If they do, ask them for a small sample of the strongest SOLVENT they are using to clean the printheads and flush the nozzles clean (also refered in printing business as print head regeneration solution/solvent or something like that). It is sold in 2-pound bottles for 100 bucks, but you only need a drop for a set of chips. Now: This strong solvent is formulated to leave intact CERAMICS, METALS, and PCB board (because those expensive print heads are made of those parts and materials) On the other hand, will instantly melt resins, plastics, varhishes and things of that nature. The first time i used this material, i poured a couple of teaspoons in a coffee cup to transfer it, something feld "unusual" when i was pouring, i looked in the cup, and there was no bottom - just a big hole. The spils also had melted my shoe soles :) I think it is well worth trying it in some old dead board... No heat, no scraping needed.

[@b3as_t]

I... AIN'T READING ALL THAT

[@jbsthegamer]

@@b3as_t i did

[@pedrohcs8]

It might work, if it doesn't disintegrate the mask as well

[@Captain-Mieste]

@@pedrohcs8 I used hard-solvent cleaner with XAAR128 print heads, their pcb cannot be removed - never had a problem with pcb mask. But, the mask could be different... Its a heavy duty industrial print head, .so.. i cannot tell for sure, it needs testing! :)

[@jaro6985]

@@pedrohcs8 yeah anything that strong would just eat the soldermask and ruin the entire board.

[@SkyDown15]

Thank you for the flux recommendation. Ordered one for test.

[@Suresh_Pillai]

Hey Tony, usually underfill compounds are nasty when over heated. This is evident on certain server motherboards as well. NVIDIA is using them for server grade display cards as well for compliancy.. which is why these cards are pain in the back side. Your hard work and good logic paid well.. Excellent work.. Beauty! 👍👍

[@rpgmaniac420]

I love the little edits you do, I could watch these videos for hours

[@theoldbigmoose]

Appreciate the longer length videos Tony. Learn from every minute.

[@TheRepairMan-yj3zp]

Nice repair, as always, nothing but the best from you Tony!

[@AKGWolf]

I remember arguing with people about backplates in the comments, love the new gold cables btw

[@inabstract]

Absolute Goat! 😮😱👌. Edit: Congrats on the growing channel! I was around when u had like...80k? Or less! Well deserved promotion ☺

[@KennethCarper77]

Awesome repair! Love the format and editing of your videos, feels like i'm there learning with you.

[@hoginfog]

29:02 middle row right side one pad is grey. 29:11 left side, middle - 2 grey pads, 29:17 - right side, middle - 1 grey pad

[@FireyFly]

Those pads are unnecessary, thus he didn't bother scraping them off.

[@northwestrepair]

Gray on camera but not through the eyes. Actually no: those are ripped NC pads.

[@3rr0rX]

Amazing repair as always. That compound scraping was next level, almost couldn't look 😂

[@pjhb_microsoldering_portugal]

Gpu guru strykes again 😂 Greetings from Portugal 🇵🇹

[@szilagyicsongor3657]

Good video went insane on if it was my discord notification or not

[@JAY24_SC]

Sir, you have done a hell of a job on this board, your sheer precision, dedication to every detail, and crosschecking for errors on everything has paid off! Everything went perfectly! this can only be done by gods. hats off to your work!

[@nikolaskallianiotis8622]

Mechanic sells a solvent for this kind of glues but it requires a lengthy applying procedure in order to soften it. Afterwards you can remove it very easily using the heat of the tip and the preheater. The goal of this procedure is to soften the glue (not dissolve it) in order to make easier the desoldering and avoid scratching the mask or losing pads.

[@northwestrepair]

This thing is hydrophobic. It will repel anything so I am not sure it can be desolved

[@nikolaskallianiotis8622]

@@northwestrepairThat's why I mentioned the "lengthy procedure" which involves dampening a cloth with the solvent, cover with it the glue and on top of that put a "seal" with a piece of aluminum foil or plastic membrane. Leave there for 15-20 mins and repeat 2-3 times. I use it with a similar glue that lenovo uses but honestly, it requires patience which I miserably lack.

[@artratengo]

Awesome job man im just in awe how high precision u need to scrape that gunk and do it on the chips too, gosh danm

[@mbosschaart]

That was immensly satisfying to watch. Impressive skills.

[@ztechrepairs]

Good job keeping up with your warranty repairs. Every single repair industry has them

[@leppie]

When Louis Rossmann becomes President, I am nominating you for the Minister of Honesty/Truth.

[@martinbotha2192]

Amazing work!!😱 Real talent!! This is fantastic work to watch!!😃😱

[@DarkHorus1975]

Excellent job Tony. It was very satisfying to watch. Take care!

[@ChristopherBurtraw]

Nice to see a master potentially learning a new skill! We will find out in future videos!

[@Patrik6920]

.. aka growing and evolving/developement .. none of us was born with this skills (of any kind actually) .. just start somewhere and go forward..

[@sedrickgates1]

BTW, there is a story about Amtech/Stirri. The product is actually the same, it has to do with past licencing. Stirri (Amtech USA) is the original but changed name recently to separate from Amtech. There was a stir about some product rebadging in the past. They are now on separate paths. In EU, Stirri is not as avail then Amtech but it is getting better I'll go Stirri myself ASAP. Really great stuff ASM or V3 are the good stuff for regular repair. 213 is the BGA king :-)

[@youchl]

more long videos pls❤ thank you for your works

[@10000276249]

Usually I see other repair shops, CNC away the glued chips all the way down to the top of the solder balls.

[@jarivuorinen3878]

Semi-automatic professional machines are not very expensive in the long run if they speed up processes, and especially if technician can do something else when heating cycle is going on. 5000-8000 dollars can get pretty good one, so they are not cheap either. I think Tony does great job with basic tools, and I must just wonder and applaud his skills. But I understand that this is the goal of Tony, keep prices down and develop skills further. It makes sense as this seems to be his own small business, one man endeavor. Bit bigger businesses have clear benefits from automating some processes, and not even try to use countless hours for repair, because it doesn't pay off well. Unfortunately "no fix" doesn't develop good reputation with customers, but if there's long line of customers, it may not matter.

[@outseeker]

talk about not being willing to risk a trace lol

[@mashundiy]

8:22 looks similar to the paste on mobile ics. We use special thin blade to cut the glue while using 250° c air on the chip. Hot air softens the glue. And then 350°c and pry the chip off taking care not to overdo or under do and tear off pads. Maybe glue is different. But use 2ull DA11 blade to cut the glue. Or buy something similar. In India most of use use cheap hot air station and we use higher temp. But with a good machine you can lower temp much more. And someone needs to design a gddr6 chip reader to test like we have emmc and ufs chip readers for mobile repair.

[@serpentdarkness8844]

And another one good repair! I don't know why but your videos make me calm, very, very calm... Zzzzzz.... Oh! Where am I?! Oh. I'm watching this "repair dude" again. Oh, well. Seriously, you are one of the most patient people in the world! 👍Respect! 🤘

[@mrhappy8966]

I think they were trying to save the vram from failing from moving but.. yeah what a pain removing that gunk!

[@privateprivate3381]

You’re a master of your craft.

[@mortarat]

Already here to see another masterpiece :D

[@GroupRoblox]

we in this together

[@EUCRAZY_AU]

Hi Tony I repair Iphone motherboards they have been doing this for years now a constant fight to do a cpu reball etc yes you always need to remove overfill/infill using a hot air station , actually i saw a solder ball pop out when you first showed the image of the 4 chips to the right. This is anoying more than anything usually the ics are fine afterwards even if turned on depending if the bridged balls are something important , the smaller these get the more you will need to just lift close ics reball all needed when doing other ics Thanks Lee The compound on iphones are rock hard also we use a few techniques Qianli have a compound remover tool hope this helps. The no detect he might have had also it might have been on the fence of working or not.

[@Majician]

I like the commentary videos, But It would also be cool just to watch you do your thing even if there's no commentary, You could put in some text on the back side or just post raw vids as is.....Anyways, thanks for bringing cards back from death....It's pretty cool that not everything needs to be thrown away.

[@chrisfeaka4250]

Good show!

[@northwestrepair]

Thanks!

[@chrisfeaka4250]

Really learn alot watching you repair cards. One day id like to do my hobby as a full tome jon like you have! Keep it up! Channel is exploding!! Was wondering where all the vids were!

[@TB-bb7uy]

Tony, your are a magician...

[@brinnjanson7978]

You are amazing at what you do. I'd love to learn all that I could from someone like you.

[@markae0]

a hundred thousand possible breaks in continuity and you fixed it, that is a miracle

[@lucasrem]

Markae Fix it again and again, is it worth it ?

[@BootedTech]

My first attempt at this and I ripped 90% of the pads off, luckily the laptop had 3 USB-c ports left to use after my destruction. Now I use Acetone to help get rid this stuff.

[@ranjitmandal1612]

Very hard and amazing work 👏

[@gamerelated3887]

Nice work! Impressive as usual.

[@michaelhemric5228]

I would take some of that compound that i removed and try to find a solvent that would soften it with it off the card and go from there on removal, just an idea for ya Sir, keep on popping em out

[@mortimermouse3086]

I would love versions of these videos that have normal speed desoldering/soldering.

[@UnworthyPillow2023]

for patrons only, haha

[@WafflesASAP]

This man is brilliant.

[@greylock5985]

Excellent repair, well done.

[@SidneyCritic]

I think that PCB is better than others because it didn't lose any pads.

[@aliensounddigital8729]

Very clean haircut. Good barber.

[@northwestrepair]

@@aliensounddigital8729 lol

[@fleurdewin7958]

38:41 I think your power supply or modular cables are going bad , 12V rail is running abit too low at PCI-E slot. The acceptable voltage range for the +12V rail is usually around +/- 5% of the nominal voltage, leading to an acceptable range of approximately 11.4V to 12.6V. This RTX8000 is not a very power hungry card nevertheless.

[@danb3785]

This is why I do software. No mess!

[@SashikantSao]

Nice work brother.

[@hellounknown33]

Great work on this repair

[@protobraid2327]

Great work.

[@AzeUnkn0wn]

scrape off the stuff so it won't pull some components. *started yeeting caps

[@kevinmagsy0312]

There is a way not to trash all neiboghring vram chips, just grind the broken chip with ur sander pen, until it go thin then do the thing desoleder it with the iron pen

[@qbishop1]

Excellent job. Thank you!

[@spacedoutbeard5033]

Check out Qian-Li 007 blades, I use them for removing underfill on cell phones. you can use a hot air gun at lower temps than the solder melts to help scrape it away. much less likely to knock a cap with those tiny blades.

[@JohnChrysostom101]

In all fairness at 3AM no one's judgment is going to be at it's peak

[@predatortheme]

Great video like usual!

[@FrpKiller]

In mobile motherboard use have a tool like 🌙 attached to a blade holder that's facitate the glue cutting process 😊

[@archerkee9761]

another great video, thx

[@DevilbyMoonlight]

I hate that underbonding crap, I used to see it on Mac stuff all the time,

[@blackpoolrockz]

Hey Tony, nice work, noticed at @29:15 in the vid on A0 there is a black pad before you put the memory back on

[@northwestrepair]

NC pads

[@simonlenhard1712]

great work

[@jaywhite15_AL]

In cell phone repair we have scraper tools just for this because Apple likes to use this black under-chip glue too. The tip of it looks like a scimitar. I use that same tool for some of my network equipment too. They usually do this for moisture resistance and even if the component overheats, the chip ~shouldn't~ move, but it seems like Nvidia is using cheap epoxy and for no real reason on a GPU that sits inside a bone dry PC/Server blade all day.

[@yapyaaa9060]

i hope some day i will be such a great technician like you! i love your video´s pls more

[@neildoherty9428]

love your work thank you

[@hi-friaudioman]

So i just bought a 3080ti with no 12v on pci. I got 12v back, but no display. Im trying to get a report in mods but when i run the secondary gpu command the screen just goes blank and nothing after. Does anyone know what the -mfg command should be or how to reveal that information? The card shows err43 and only 8gb memory in windows but since there's no display i cant run mods/mats. I bought a bunch of reball equipment anyway because im sure the core/memory will need to be reballed but it would be great to know what memory is actually not being recognized.

[@ilidari1955]

It's nice for you to have so many customers and I do like to see things going well for you but don't overwork yourself, plus healthcare costs a fucking fortune in USA.

[@CocolinoFan]

29:20 There is an oxidized pad on the right of the screen

[@mustangthearpy]

Limb over Life ❤

[@dolphhandcreme]

29:33 you mentioned "this flux is not particularly good for reballing" - did you talk about the stirri or something else? Looking for an alternative to the amtech. Is the stirri a good allround replacement? the amtech does the job for everything i need to do, so a cheaper replacement is always welcome!

[@marstedt]

24:30 - better deal on flux

[@ariasm8911]

you could use a more delicate tools, we have micro soldering iron which you can even use to solder flat cables without problem

[@MaestroColucci]

Amazing content 👌

[@matheussantiago3230]

Very good work ❤ come to brazil

[@KabutoRyu]

The card has a sandwich ram on both sides and on top of that 1 side stays in the open without a plate for heatsink? Brutal

[@jonathans175]

PCBs are quite thermally conductive, so as long as the top RAM chip is cooled, the bottom one can conduct its heat away through the PCB just fine. It's just a few Watts on a rather large area. (It's also just GDDR6 with a relatively low clock frequency.)

[@danw3735]

I saw you missed a pad on A1, bottom right ram chip. Not sure if it's important or not.

[@northwestrepair]

Unless it's a no connect pad, sometimes they look different to the camera than to my eyes. It worked so it all went well.

[@JAY24_SC]

The User is probably using some sort of Hypervisor over his OS, which detected that the card was running abnormally, and within a pool of devices, decided to exclude the card over which the user thought its a no detect.. The card did post.

[@andreykorzinev4340]

Amazing job I always wondered - wouldn’t grinding dead chips help to sacrifice only one instead of all group? Like first grind chip with dremel down to balls, then do a careful cleanup with iron and then put a new freshly lead balled chip? Or applying even very local heat would move shielded chips around?

[@coladict]

Customer saying "no detect" might just be that to customers usually if the thing doesn't work, it just doesn't work, whatever the fault may be.

[@darezi]

20:00 Why aren't you using fiberglass pen for cleaning pads? Fiberglass pen is great for cleaning stuff like this and also for cleaning any residue left behind on anything! The only bad side of using fiberglass pen is that while cleaning, there is a risk that the thiny parts can get stuck in your skin and it's a pain in the ass to take it out...

[@malkyprijemny7077]

because he uses what he wants

[@darezi]

​@@malkyprijemny7077 What are you, he's advocate? Get a life, looser!

[@worroSfOretsevraH]

Long video, instant like.

[@Unsocial200]

Could you maybe use acetone or nail paint remover (softer version) carefully with a brush or something?

[@northwestrepair]

Nothing will work

[@ca3340h3993]

Wait until you start trying to reball NAND ICs from phones. It's very rare for those not to be underfilled, so they're always a pain

[@ion1984]

4:34 bro i havent laughed that hard a youtube video in years

[@JamesTK]

The like button is quite substantial are you sure you want us to hit you with it?

[@yunodiewtf]

Maybe the customer got a fireplace in his case? Also is there no chemical way to remove the compound without going full hulk on the board and components?

[@igor_misic]

Boosting youtube algorithm

[@colincampbell4505]

Awesome work!

[@vishensivparsad]

maybe you can take a dremmel/engraver to the damaged chip

[@EmoDuckman]

Good work, i wonder why they only mask the bottom 4

[@joshuascholar3220]

Why is this "compound" there in the first place?

[@tadawakatsu]

If what i knew from Dosdude1 is not wrong, it's called edge bonding... you know for bonding stuff to motherboard for whatever reason? Whether it's positive or negative depends on the point of view i guess.

[@irasthewarrior]

Most likely it wasn't detected properly in his operating system and didn't load the drivers.

[@DigBipper188]

In all fairness - not the first time an underfill layer has killed anything NVidia related... there's a reason Apple sacked NVidia off in the mid 2000s and swtiched to AMD for their graphics :) who also remembers the PS3 YLod fiasco? a large number of the failures was the GPU dying because of bad underfill!

[@danielharrison1917]

I guess most people on your channel know of the ctrl-shift-windows-B GPU reset in windows? I thought I'd share that.

[@TheJohanJonker]

Liked.. 99.1% right... lol.. Close.. watching the video, it looks a lot easier than the time and effort place into it. you missed a few things.. Over all, well done. a few comments below pointed out the mistakes, but in the end you pulled it off. The thing about GPU repairs, there is no real guide to perfection. you explained the flux, and when and why you used it, you explained almost everything, for that I'll give you a 10/10.

[@M4XD4B0ZZ]

I always imagined you with darker hair

[@Darkshroud]

The hot spot was reading at 90. Is that to be expected of FE/Blower coolers? I know 75 Roughly on core is considered acceptable but I don't know about the hotspot

[@mfgw27]