Rustoleum Paint and Model Cars...A Toxic Cocktail

[@TheModelingHermit]

I've been building models since 1959, and was one of Testor's biggest supporters, but with what is happening with them after their purchase by Rustoleum, I've started changing to Tamiya. I have also started using my air brush more, but I'm lazy and don't like the cleanup after painting. I've watched your videos and articles for a long time, and have always felt comfortable with your advice and tutorials. I also do dioramas, two of which have been buildings of substantial size, one a car dealership and one a large garage/machine shop. Because of cost, I'd considered using Rustoleum on them, but instead, I went the extra expense and used Tamiya and Testors paints. This was the right choice, as using products made for the intended purpose results in intended quality. I ended up with some enjoyable dioramas instead of several hundred dollars worth of wasted plastic. Maybe I'm just old and set in my ways, but I'm a huge believer in using products designed for their intended purpose. Thanks you and keep posting these videos.

[@michaelquinones-lx6ks]

Same here i feel the same way.

[@labspeciman7402]

Even since rustoleum owns testors the paint remains the same. I used metallic gold recently on a model and its gorgeous..

[@osirismaximus2787]

Im new to this hobby and have ruined my first two models with Rustolium 2x Clear. At first I thought I had done something wrong but turns out its just the paint. I used Tamiya primer and Tamiya paint then went over it with the Rustolium clear to make it shiny but it ate away the paint and even some of the primer and left the surface of the plastic with a grainy and bumby texture all over. Thank you for doing this video. Really helps new people like me not make more mistakes.

[@jonathanbroome5021]

You must work for them. The results I get from regular spray paint are way better. And you can wet sand it, compound polish and wax them. Once the plastic rehardens it's as strong as a real auto finish

[@mikescustomspeedshop171]

Everybody’s trying to save a buck instead of listening to us old guys that learned a long time ago that trying to save a buck will cost you in the end

[@sohchx]

Exactly. You know this generation though, most of them know it all until it's to late lol

[@michaelcooke2559]

I’m watching this video for the second time. You are absolutely correct about the Rustoleum paint, and the same for the Krylon paint. I have had several models turn out great, but I have had a few go to crap. It’s just not worth the money you save with those paints, because you end up stripping the model and buying the correct paint. Now, I have had success all of the time with their primers. Thanks for sharing.

[@user-sd5go4rr4i]

If you make a mistake have Super Clean on hand. Its about $10 for a gallon. Pour some in a large enough container and let the model soak. Use a toothbrush to help remove the paint every hour or so. It may leave a little bit on the model but you will primer it anyway. Just did it last night.

[@AutismusPrime69]

Rip Donn. I hope your life partner, Jake can find peace.

[@daviddykes3026]

All I'll say about the paint topic is this; since I got away from hardware store paints & went with strictly Tamiya primer (fine, white), colors, and clears, my modeling enjoyment has GREATLY improved!

[@georgegladden5523]

Thanks Don great video thank you I fell in that rustoleum trap following a u tube person who will remain anonymous but you probably know whom I referred to I used many of his recommendations and they were great failures you are a godsend to modelers with your information I have purchased your latest videos and follow them always Thank you!!!!!

[@youknoweverything7643]

I bet I could name that channel as well and guy. He uses rustoleum probably because you can hide all of the uglyness and mess ups on camera he has to produce models very quickly so he does it cheap as possible as well.

[@MrPolicekarim]

@@youknoweverything7643 you mean hpiguys workshops? I like him!

[@garyhelton6555]

@@MrPolicekarim I understand the title is meant to grab attention but I think saying "toxic cocktail" is a bit of an overstatement . Wouldn't be much more toxic than let's say tamiya on plastic. All commonly used model paints have a toxic element to them. I'm not totally discounting the video however because if a primer of the same brand as the paint is not used one may end up with a crappy paint job. I learned this from experience. Once I started using the flat black or gray primers (color depending in on what you are trying to achieve) the paint will go on smoothly and the "stretching" stopped happening. Another thing to keep in mind is the atmosphere in which you are spraying the paint, temp/humidity which greatly affects your finished product. Just my two cents. Everybody has their own opinions and what works for them. BTW I will give hpiguys props as well although my son and I cars may come out looking a little better ,we do enjoy his stuff and also understand he is doing promo work as well.

[@petermerz2704]

Glad I ran across this blog. I’ve been having that problem for a year and nobody but you had an answer! Thanks for sharing! 😎

[@craigbranstrom4749]

I built models for years with Rust-Oleum with no issues as long as you clean the parts first with Simple Green.

[@bigdumbdad2226]

This is a great way to gatekeep this hobby. The old guard telling the newbies what products to use and how dumb they are if they use something different. I've been painting plastic model cars for 2/3rds of my life, I've used random spray paint from the hardware stores because I couldn't afford the Testors spray cans at the time. I've sprayed with Testors spray cans, and I've used an airbrush with various different paints in it. The only time I have ever had a paint job come out bad was because I messed up prepping the plastic, or because I mixed paint types. These are all rookie mistakes that were learning experiences that made me a better model builder. Blaming a specific brand of paint is ridiculous.

[@kirkstersstuff2006]

Agreed

[@sajash7561]

Great advice on Rustoleum. 2k however is the mildest clear out there. Very safe over decals and will never damage/eat into paint/plastic.

[@ScaleModelTechniques]

Rustoleum 2x was the brand that was being referred to ........ Mentioning 2k was a mistake on our part ....

[@Floridaredwing25]

Not the same clear he was talking about!

[@markjg76]

Thank You Sir I'm just getting back into scale model building for the first time in years. I have been doing a lot of reading and youtube video watching and thank god I came across your channel about Rustoleum paints. these days it all seems to be all about Tamiya, Tamiya, Tamiya. You just got to go with what works best in this day and age of model building. Testors just isn't the standard that it once was. Thank You so much from a new subscriber with big thumbs up!

[@chuchuchip]

Never had a problem with Rustoleum brush paint on metal furniture. I am a outdoor model railroader & have only used Krylon spray paint to paint freight cars. Never had a problem spraying Krylon on plastic styrene 1:20.3 scale model freight cars. They still hold up under all kinds of weather. In my HO club Krylon is used on large buildings, e.g. steel mills, coking plants, sky scrapers, etc... No problems on plastic. No paint smell (Krylon also makes a water based paint). Krylon also has a UV resistant clear coat, great for outdoor models.

[@mikebowers123]

I have had nothing but horrible experience with Rustoleum. I now only use Testors or Tamiya

[@fitzman86]

I have had zero issues with Rustoleum. Although I haven't planned on or needed to strip any paint. I'm currently doing a 1960 Chevy Apache and the Turquoise Rustoleum 2x is working quite well. Bought the paint mainly to match a stock color that was discontinued by Model Master. Anyways! Just throwing my 2 cents in; Haven't had any issues with Rustoleum and my Chevy is looking great. Cheers! 🤘🏻

[@jonathanbroome5021]

If you're good with rustoleum etc. It makes the model car spray paint seem like toys.

[@StratBurst92]

Tamiya & Testors always works well for me.

[@sohchx]

Funny to hear mention of Jim here. He's a great guy. Thank you!!! Thank you!! for addressing this!!! I can't count how many times I have told modelers over the past 30+ years new and old not to use Krylon and Rustoleum to this very day!!! Now you've got KZbinr's with channels on here, "you know who you are", that solely use this crap and the beginners then take that as gospel in turn doing the same exact thing. Then they come onto the forums, Facebook, etc complaining and wondering why they have issues.

[@tiptop8584]

Main right on point of this information for me is. Cost of paint vs cost of today's kits. This is not 1965 any longer, kits are not $1.50. Spend the extra for good paint! Yes I'm that old, buildings kits since early 60's when kids built the models and you showed finished builds to your dad, not dads showing kids like today.

[@vindivergilio3482]

I use Rustolium paint all the time on the kits and styrene scratch build models I do (99% of the time, fire engines) and to date, the only problem I've had was on one kit, the Trumpeter 2002 American LaFrance Pumper. And the problem turned out to be a bad valve on the can. Instead of spraying out in a nice even mist, it 'spit' out droplets along with the mist. Yeah, it took a few hours (actually almost a week, about an hour a night, of removing the paint from the body using anything that would get it off, but in the end, the paint job on that $89.00 kit came out almost flawless. Works for me so that's what I use. Now.....the price of these kits today...that's another story!!! I remember when a 'decent' kit ran around $20-$30 new. Now, 20 yrs later, ya can't get a reissue of the same kit for under $50 if you are lucky!!!!!!

[@misterbuklau4053]

I use duplicolor perfect match, Dries fast, no runs, and it dries hard.

[@tifosiman68]

They make one of the best primers too.

[@videocast3655]

I always wondered why HPI guys workshop uses floor polish rather than 2k clear for his finishes. he uses rustoleum exclusively for his models. on my monitor they actually look pretty good if your not planning on entering a contest. Thanks for your excellent commentary....

[@rickmoreno6858]

@Randall Johnson really? Wth? U need to calm down geezus. And all those illiterate mess ups are intentional! What the hell is the deal with all the freaking nazi grammar folks. There are bigger issues in this country and world than someone not using proper grammar.

[@darthgamer6080]

I've always wondered why he has never had his models graze or melt due to the Rustoleum

[@ScaleModelTechniques]

@@rickmoreno6858 Rick , it would probably shock the living hell out of them to know that by 7th grade , I had the reading and word comprehension of a senior in college . Some people’s kids just don’t understand sarcasm or play on words . I appreciate you stepping in . Donn

[@jonathanbroome5021]

Hey I've watched a lot of your videos. Learned a lot. Since August I've been building model cars. Out of 11 kits I only so far kept 3 which passed to be professional builds. I tried using model car paint and it wasn't balsy enough. I use regular spray paint, mainly rustoleum and I get the most durable incredible finish out of them. I bake it and wait a week or more until the plastic rehardens then freeze them so the plastic contracts and it works great. Then again I'm a weirdo. Thanks for your videos

[@boxbuyer2008]

I've learned my lesson. I've been buying Tamiya primer and you are correct. It is worth the investment.

[@peterespada6226]

I could not agree more. People practice false economies and have a poor understanding of paint chemistry. Thanks for your wise words.

[@ryurc3033]

I gave up on spray cans long ago, just because it was a waste of paint. Ridiculous amount of overspray from most spray cans. Createx water based paints work great for everything. Even rc. Thin them correctly, use the uvls uv resistant clear. Pretty much on par with 2k clear, and cleans up with just water. Anyone who airbrushes, ya need to give it a try!

[@LanceisLawson]

Krylon Crystal Clear works fine. Actually if you know what you're doing virtually all clear coats work well.

[@kirbygates9531]

Love ur advice.... wishing the models here in Canada were a little cheaper everywhere I go its 40 to 50$$ I have spent tones on ebay

[@waynewootton5385]

i like using tamiya spray can and primer

[@ChristophC999]

Just did a build with the Rust O on a cheap car I won from EBAY. Rust O was still sticky days after painting. I've used primarily Tamiya and Testors products when building models.

[@recnepsgnitnarb6530]

Rustoleum burned me once. I switched over to Duplicolor or similar automotive urethanes. Never looked back and no paint issues.

[@adamfritz84]

I've painted several models in nothing but rustoleum and never had any issues! The 2 times I've had to strip paint due to my own screw up, my plastic has never been screwed up or un-salvageable. Maybe it's just operator error... just my opinion!

[@ryanedgley9077]

What kinda model?

[@adamfritz84]

@@ryanedgley9077 tamiya "calsonic" r33 skyline, AMT 59 chrysler imperial, tamiya 1988 porsche 934, and plenty of other model cars since I was a kid up till now

[@ryanedgley9077]

@@adamfritz84 ah nice, im expecting a tamiya r32 in the mail. Good to hear tamiya models are safe

[@adamfritz84]

@@ryanedgley9077 very nice.. ive built two of the tamiya r32's! keep in mind rustoleum is all the "2X" stuff now, so you have to go lighter on coats! Also the clear is finicky and you should practice on plastic spoons to get the timing of clear application down. Weather and humidity plays a big factor in painting. Sometimes rusto clear can be sprayed 15-30min after the last color coat goes on, and sometimes you have to wait several days to weeks before applying the clear! So definitely TEST and practice on plastic spoons or junk model pieces

[@ryanedgley9077]

@@adamfritz84 oh okay, well thanks!

[@markblue5375]

I wish I had all the money I wasted on most Testors spray crap ! Tamiya is great , but I have had great results for over 25 years using Krylon , Rust Oleum and others. Never any problems with the paints longevity. It's all about your prep skills and how you use the paint ! It's that simple !

[@teddyjones8027]

100% agree.... I've been using rattle can Rustoleum, krylon, duplicolor, tamiya, and Airbrush paints for 34 yrs and the only time I have any issues with rattle cans is when I got lazy and didn't take time to properly prep.

[@danielmiller4492]

I use Tamiya or duplicolor or model masters. I don't have an airbrush. I learned my lesson on Rust-Oleum a few times. Lol.

[@craigwest8386]

Oh, and by the way, just my opinion....Mr Hobby / Mr Color are the best air brush paints out there right now. I like the Tamiya lacquers through my airbrush as well.

[@douglasmitchell5033]

I have painted a ton of cars with Rustolium paint. I paint it with three oats. First two coats are very light. Third and sometimes forth are medium coats. Works every time.

[@emanuelrivera8048]

I tested this theory with an Epoxy Gloss Coat, Worst mistake of my lifetime, it dulled the paint and melted the plastic, thank goodness i got a repair piece coming in!!

[@user-wq2uh6wf9e]

what a nice man and he works with you on any problem you may have with your model car thank you

[@scottbrown7415]

My experience with painting styrene models has evolved to where I use normal automotive paints for exterior colors and totally stay away from the slow drying solvent reduced paints without a catalyst. With proper surface preparation I have zero issues with it and have the added bonus of the paint for a Candy apple red 1969 Mustang being actually and correctly that color. Modern catalyst paint systems are perfect for exterior color finishes in 95% of cases

[@jamesvozar1]

Very well said, could not agree more, that stuff causes crazing like mad.

[@LanceAly-hc1ud]

blame the painter not the paint

[@michaelkeogh8454]

I've used Rust-Oleum on car bodies, sometimes I get a good paint job, most times not.

[@1993reefblue]

It really depends on the chemical makeup of said paint.. a lot of acetone base paints will melt the plastic.. That being said, with the right primer down first you can remedy this issue but imo its better to use enemals and lacquers made for plastics. Takes any guess work out.

[@kregskorner8851]

100% agree NO Big cans! I will use spray Testors or Tamiya for under body, interiors and such, usually air brush the body work always the best results with the most control..

[@waynewootton5385]

thank you mr. yost on the tip of stripping a model car body work great

[@breaktimescalemodels]

Well said. It will also damage small parts. Use bulk acrylic paints to shad your colors.

[@Aces_Eights_Scale_Vision]

They want to save money by buying cheap paint yet, Hobby Lobby has a 40% off sale and they go purchase several kits they will never build. Cut back on the number of kits you want and buy quality paint and tools.

[@grooveholmes79]

Never had 2k clear eat into any paint

[@ScaleModelTechniques]

It is the 2x from Rustoleum that was being referred to , Tom . Sorry , a blunder on our part .....

[@grooveholmes79]

@@ScaleModelTechniques no worries

[@tannerstuttsss9802]

hpiguys workshop channel, he uses it on the outside of the body? And his looks perfect? I don’t get it?

[@edfiliberto4714]

I vebeen daying the same for years use paint made for plastic models, not rust oleum, duplicolor, or any other automotive finishes. Ive been building models since the 60s. I always used enamels. Or now tamiya products.

[@SugarMapleForge]

I can second this. Just getting into modeling and of course went for cheap Rust-Oleum right off the bat! Talk about orange peel! I even warm the can up, thin coats etc. It's not made for plastic! Lol now I will say it works for me on interiors so far for a base coat but I will never put it on another body. No way! Love your videos! Very helpful. Going to get your DVDs soon.

[@mitchgawlik1175]

This is the first of your videos I have seen and you've captured my attention. You're laid back, not bombastic, no death metal music to contend with and you spoke matter-of-factly about the subject. I'm one of those that was attracted by the ultra large cans of Krylon. It's been a hassle in a few instances and good in a couple. I went to Krylon after being disappointed by Testors. Painting from a spray can has been pretty much of a crapshoot for me. I guess Tamiya is going to be next on my list, using Hobby Lobby's 40% off coupons.

[@prehistoricgentlemanbird9131]

I love death metal lol.

[@jamess.merritt5353]

Because I have already heard about some guys who are in their 50's and 60's and they are building model cars and model truck's so please let me know just if I'm to old to be building models, thanks!..... .

[@larmar]

My god you got hands, imagine that!

[@billypeek7186]

what I got from this is; don't screw up the paint in the first place and you're good.

[@IamGalvatron]

Rustoleum works fine for my needs. I build truck models, working truck models, so I’m not looking for a super gloss finish. I do however have some car kits I’m looking at building and am gonna want a high gloss finish so I may look at an alternative to the Rustoleum. The Rustoleum is also an easy get for me being I’m an OTR truck driver and I build while I’m out on the road. Good info here sir.

[@user-oo9ij6rl8d]

I’m starting to get back in to model car building as I’m retired finally. I have a kit that sat on a shelf for 30+ years that I started on as my first project. I, having past experience with Rustolium running even when lightly sprayed, and since it was the brand of choice at my local hardware store, stupidly decided to try it. HUGE mistake! Turned out so bad that I found a kit like it for $10.00 that at least had the body in it and am going to follow your advise on this one.

[@1976Cordoba]

I don't know - I think the cheap stuff is fine for chassis, engines and suspension. Maybe spend more on the body paint and clear.

[@TheBlueberry606]

Maybe you should do a special on paint and show the msds sheet on percentages of volatile components compared to good model paint.

[@flashy5150]

Maybe I should show my model cars that have been clear-coated with Rustoleum , you will change your outlook on Rustoleum😉

[@sandyhanson6082]

Yeah,I've never used Rustoleum on models. Rustoleum does work well on wood too...just not on plastic model kits great video! Thanks!

[@hhaste]

I haven't had any issues (yet) with Rustoleum's clear coats but I wouldn't dare use any of their other enamel paints on a plastic model, it sprays way too thick etc.

[@turtle-gf6wv]

I use rustoleum and i have never had a problem and used floor shine afterwards about a day after and the results have been great,one thing i can say is that i wonder if these people who has had a problem with the paint actually washed the parts first with degreaser and then let the parts dry.

[@rayaquilina7476]

Hello my friend im Ray from Malta you are Master of Models i make car too i wish i me in USA to meet you thank my friend

[@hattrick8684]

I use rustoleum primer, for clear I’ve been using Krylon. I use them on the “cheaper” kits $30 range. For the larger 50+ I use Mr, Color.

[@danielbritton8588]

Enamel is not the same between makers. Solvents in the formulas differ. Rust-oleum for one is formulated for exterior wear. The nozzles are not made for modeling. Even though hpi guys uses them.

[@craigwest8386]

Are you in Clearwater, Fl? I'm right across the bay in Tampa. Been scale modeling for more than 60 years. I'll look for you at local shows when we have them. Swap meet coming up the last Sunday in February...Bear Hobby Shop. Not my shop, it belongs to a guy named Greg. Usually, a good turnout at his swap meets, twice a year.

[@KHModelWorks]

Thank you for doing this. You are someone people listen to, so hopefully people will listen. It grows tiresome seeing posts such as the ones you described, in which the problem could have been avoided had the modeler used paint made for plastic models...

[@Ratchet-strap-Garage]

I can't believe he's gone

[@hightorquerc]

I've used rustoleum primer and crystal clear lacquer with Holts automotive paint and never had issues. Wouldn't use rustoleum colours on a kit though

[@CheapCheerful]

OMG you are right! I used Rustoleum because I heard it was great for plastics, used it to paint a tamiya body and an airsoft rifle... big mistake!! I couldn't work out why it *reacted* like acid on the plastic. I'd spray it on, very light coat, it looked great, then 30 seconds later I'd look at what I'd sprayed, and while drying it had EATEN into the paint, like acid, with little bubbles coming up on the surface, cracks, etc. Since then I switched to airbrushing with regular glass bottle paints, never had same issue.

[@gabrielramos2238]

Did you use primer before applying paint or spray paint directly?

[@Floridaredwing25]

Thank God someone else knows this! Rustolum Sucks for models!!! Period! I am done! (Mic Drop)

[@JP-nq5dp]

Geez i didn't know people were still doing this , my wife bought me 2 kits for Christmas I didn't know they still existed . And dang what happened to the 6 dollar kits lol 30 dollars now . I'm gonna give it a try again been 30 years lol

[@mhenderson1000]

Part 2..Issues with hood & body..I've used Rust-Oleum Ultra paint before & no issue..I've restripped both once & said no again..Since this model is for me to see in my house Im going to live with it..From now on I'll stick to Tamiya paints for body & hood.

[@paulcasarez404]

I use PPG and house of kolor automotive paints on my large scale builds

[@tonytyreman2143]

I am new to the Hobby...i have used some non model paint....ignorance my excuse and my normal hobby shop forced to close During lockdown..... Not Rustoleum but another big brand..... the paint was fine for a few weeks but did crack in no time.... thankfully i was planning on stripping it anyway.... the plastic ok thankfully...but who knows what would have happened if i had let it say on the bodyshell longer...proves your point anyway.... thank you.

[@carsonridge8978]

You are aware that Testor's Paint is now owned by Rustoleum? I have used Rustoleum primer for years without a single problem.

[@slotripper]

Gotta be careful what paint is used on body,...but all my small parts....Rustoleum! I have used it to paint a few bodies,...with a good primer,sanding, then wet sand,... excellent paint job,...you can use anything if you know proper application techniques for chemical being utilized,...I have tried it all and know what works. To just say no to cheaper paint options is crazy talk, anything works with proper application and experience to apply correctly. I was building models before Tamiya even existed!

[@slowguy4046]

Will rustoleum primer work wit testers one coat lacquer?

[@carsonridge8978]

@@slowguy4046 Do a spoon test & find out. I do it every time

[@mhenderson1000]

Man, I just had this happened to...Building my version of Kye Kelly's Shocker 83 NPK Camaro..Use Rust-Oleum gloss black. Got issues with my hood

[@interst8erj968]

Dont forget to trash Duplicolor to while your at it. LOL. I tried a metalic once from Duplicolor and got it super shinney ...but man you could see a heavy texture under the gloss. Ya know...people can make anything work but is really worth the extra effort? Love the Tamiya stuf. In a lot of cases you won't even need primer. Any hardware store product you wouldn't even think about not using primer.

[@bigdaddy6879]

Ahhh, I do miss watching these videos old man. I’m sorry to hear about the legends passing. I had no idea. I’ve had trouble keeping up with the hobby in recent years due to unexpected events. I still plan on jumping back on the train when I can work all this crap out and have free time again. I smell a rebirth of the KZbin channel here soon. Keep an eye out. Glad to see you’re still at it. Oh yeah, ai may need to get a hold of that new dvd. Have a great one sir. -Salute-

[@robertpradella6550]

I love that van. I have one also! Yeah! Lol

[@johnroberts5285]

I’ve watched this video twice and must say that I Totally Agree with the advice that is given on the use of non-hobby paints versus the cost of ruining an expensive kit. The paint is THE most prominent feature of a model and it needs to be right. If you use Tamiya, for example, stay with Tamiya from primer to final finish coat to eliminate any guesswork. If however you decide to experiment with hardware store big cans do just that. Experiment first! Starting with primer, spray a hidden and flat part of the kit like the bottom of the interior tub (after scrubbing it with soap and water, then letting it dry)and see what happens after a few days. If the primer test finish looks good and uniform then scrub it thoroughly again with soap and water. When it is dry apply your color coat just as you normally would. Let that coat dry a few days or a week. If you plan on using decals, apply some spares and see how it goes. After those dry, apply the clear coat as you normally would and let it dry a few days. If all is well, you can safely proceed on the body. The key is to use the same line of product each step of the way (Rustoleum, for example) and run your test on a part of the model that will be hidden. Not all model plastics and decals are the same, so you will have to repeat your test for each diffent kit you build. That is a lot of time and work and must be done for “Big Can” paint jobs. Much simpler if you just buy paints intended for models.

[@paintnamer6403]

Re-coat time can be a problem as well as paint type interaction. Test paints and primers before committing. 2X seems to have a problem if no primer is used on model kits like it flash dries with a static line running through somewhere but some spots that look ok. Someone mentioned that it will cover too heavy and obscure details, yes there is that.

[@tiptop8584]

Another thought after seeing this very informative video. It's a good one. Interesting note on disappearing modelers with age. I'll just say this... 1965..."Son to Dad, look at this model I finished! 2020...Dad to Son, look at this model I finished! Stop price gouging these kits! Bring back affordable kit prices and interest back to youths. When were gone so is this hobby!

[@mikep9984]

Your right about that. They moved the manufacturing to China and mostly old tooling no reason they should cost what they do now

[@mikeread3251]

I wish I would have found this sooner. Never ever again

[@JohnPol]

I wonder have you ever try splash paints if so what are your thoughts on them? Me and my son have channel he is 13 has ADHD but this helps him focus

[@MrModelworx]

Personally I would never use exterior enamel paint on my models. However...... If you are not so good at painting or your spray technique is crap then even Tamiya spray paints will look crap... Even airbrush lacquer paints will look crap. Painting is a learning curve, you do not have to follow or use the same products that other people use, make your own decisions, I did, no one told me what I should use.

[@RobertSchildt-vt8yw]

I might of commented on this once before but what he says is true! I stick with the old testors paint or what's out there for model kits or I stick with bottle paint broken down with testors brush cleaner or model paint thinner to run through the air brush! I don't prime my kits with primers unless I am using acrylic paint but I use only hobby paint straight out! Those kits as said anymore are not cheap!

[@yanktornado5121]

I almost bought a can today as an emergency out for a Blackburn Buccaneer and I’m glad I didn’t. I’ll just wait until the Hobby store opens lol

[@markfortin421]

Fact: Rustoleom bought Testors. Then they discontinued all Model Master paints, and redid the formulas for the little square bottles (thinner paint and dropped colors) Why?? I don't know but they single handedly destroyed the hobby industry, and many colored you could only get from MM are gone, not only cars but planes, boats, and military too. It isn't like MM was in competition with Rusto, so I don't understand . For this, I HATE Rustoleum!

[@roberthenderson2580]

My thoughts exactly, for this reason I refuse to buy any Rustoleum paints.

[@robertbuckner2353]

Adhere to means to stick fast... for what it's worth, just like paint for models.

[@flashy5150]

I used Rustoleum clear on my models. I just mist coat the model first, let it harden, then do my deep coats. This method seals the painting before the thick coats. You must be doing it all wrong.

[@labspeciman7402]

Explains why I cannot remove the paint. So I will sand and repaint..

[@reddsshaker3477]

2X clear bites into the color coat and possibly the plastic itself…..not “2K” as he stated. Common mistake.

[@kinumike]

I seen this going on every weekend. Good call . use paint made for modeling.

[@chuckhand8622]

Don, did I hear you say that you went to Millville Hobby? I didn't know you were from South Jersey!!! I was born and raised in Cape May and Wildwood!!!

[@sohchx]

I didn't know this either. That's cool!! I too was born and raised in South Jersey. I still have family in Vineland, Millville, Hopewell, Salem, Bridgeton, and Pennsgrove

[@chuckhand8622]

@@sohchx Cool, Jersey Boys!!!!

[@danpettis1675]

ive used rustolumium on kits before. with zero issues. but whats super important is use a good hobby primer first. like mr hobby. or tamiya. that way you can use whatever paint you like.. even real automotive paints and clears

[@RattleCanShenanigans]

ahahaha I love the thumbnail pic! Looks like, "Yeah I'm about to piss some folks off when I drop this here truth bomb."

[@raiderjoe2817]

What do you recommend for small 1 64 scale diecast I just want it for small details like front and rear lights 🏎️

[@thor1911.]

Thank brotherthis helps so much

[@hermanhandbrush4402]

I use aerosol cans very rarely, so buying a big can of Rustoleum would be a waste for me. I get the little cans of Tamiya or Testors

[@6ickness1]

thanks for the tip ... no mo rustoleum ... ive been thinking going airbrush....