Nice infomercial for your pal...but he doesn't own the patent on that body style does he...no he doesn't. And I can guarantee he didn't make it from scratch either, he used someone else's work to come up with his version. This is just as inane as people grabbing images off the internet and putting their own watermark on them. Your pal is still making a living using a design that isn't his, so how much GREED and entitlement is acceptable.....the answer is NONE. That has always been the American business model, make the same thing...but make it better or different using the sample that you purchased from the originator. Go cry if you don't like it.

I assume this applies to automotive base coats urethane as well? I had to redo my roof on my truck and I was sad so many nibs landed on the paint. It being a 13 year old truck and the roof i didnt sweat it and cleare coated over the imperfections. I debated wetsanding now i wish i had seen this before. Thanks for the education. Sometimes seeing is believing.

Awsome

What do you mean when you say "burnish it down" and "let it flash"? Also, I am deaf and I am relying on closed captioning so If those words are not what you said, please correct me. Thank you. :-)

Did he just call out hpiguysworkshop?

Doesn't a person paint the inside of the model first, then the outside ?? That's how I always paint my models.

I herd the correct pronunciation is" willis " not Willie's. I herd this like last year. I always pronounced it the other way also for over 30 years.

I always used a cardboard tube from paper towel rolls. I hot glued a square base on the bottom and glued the round spot on top. It's worked for me. Just paint the cardboard before you use it and you won't have any fuzz flying off of it. And i also use alligator clips with wood skewers and i have 2×4's with holes to put it in when I'm done painting.

I have done at least 50 cars with Rustoleum. I always use Primer, Paint and Clear. Never had any issues. You can spend a lot more but if you know how to prep, paint and polish, you'll be fine.

I also got some computer airisol can's to blow off the body's. I also got a hand rechargable air blower off of Amazon with 3 settings. 👍

I miss this guy... Great guy. Sadly missed.😢

Tamiya modelers knife pro. Olfa blades. Hands down THEE best I've ever used. Flexi files. Sanding stick. Don't skimp on tweezers. And a DAMN good pin vise. Mines an excel one. It's hard on the fingers. Some of the best modelers tools I've used come from japan. Tamiya makes DAMN GOOD stuff.

Great tips!! Love the paint video's!!!! 😎🏆

BUY FROM A REPUTABLE COMPANY!!! STOP RIPPING PEOPLE OFF FUKFACES!!!

🙏🙏🏾🙏🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🙏

Excellent, thanks for doing that. The difference is amazing!

Can you spray 2k grey baige paint over pink primer ? If so, what would the end result look like ?

Hay Old man…… I still watch your videos. Thank you ❤️

Thank you for this really useful video. I’m repainting the bumpers on my car and have made the mistake of using a grey primer with white paint and finding that the bumper has a slightly different colour to the rest of my car. Now I know why - I will repaint the bumper, but with a white primer and expect a closer match due to the different colour primer

Always great content ¿Still uploading videos? Cheers!

I noticed that the white-labeled bottle of glue that he is using is called, Plastruct Bondene Styrene & ABS Plastic Solvent Cement.

When I wet sanded a metallic 1500 or 2000 to fix an error, silver came through and the color was lost. My theory was when I sprayed, the metal flakes settled, and I was sanding away the color. That may or may not be correct, but I think my error is in how I spray on the base coat. Because of some primer dusting issues, and how I see full size cars painted, I was getting closer, maybe 4", and laying down a wet coat in one pass. I might make two or max three passes (I always thought a "coat" was fully painted and fully or partially dried) during a paint session on any given spot. By contrast, he's much further away, moving both airbrush and target over and over again with 15 - 20 passes per session. I'll need to try that.

Rip don, hope your enjoying heaven the community misses you,,

I just discovered this channel a few days ago and just learned of Donn's passing a few minutes ago. Thanks for all the valuable info you shared with us. R.I.P. old man.

I think AMT is one of the best to build it gives you a nastogia from the past I’ve had expensive kits perfect kits but amt is my favorite helps soothes my mind

Thank you so much for that info. What type or kind of sandpaper should I start out with, then finish with through the process? I'm new to the game and my first project will be a 57 Chevy Bel air, and I just got that in. 😊

I wouldn't have believed it if I had not seen this demonstration. I'm going to give it a try

And what is the best glue to use when you are building my model

What kind of glue do you use for windows

Still can't believe the ol man is gone. R.I.P boss!

It depends on the paint you use. I use Createx paint and sealers. They recommend no finer than 400 grit to give the sealer a good bite on the surface. I follow their recommendations, and the the paint jobs come out great.

Thanks for this advice! 👍🏼👍🏼 I’m new to the hobby

Rustoleum burned me once. I switched over to Duplicolor or similar automotive urethanes. Never looked back and no paint issues.

2X clear bites into the color coat and possibly the plastic itself…..not “2K” as he stated. Common mistake.

Rest in peace you will be missed❤

You will be missed my friend. Rest in peace❤

Rest in peace

I vebeen daying the same for years use paint made for plastic models, not rust oleum, duplicolor, or any other automotive finishes. Ive been building models since the 60s. I always used enamels. Or now tamiya products.

I can't believe he's gone

miss your videos donn, i use the paasche h series great workhorse easy to use/clean,you taught me to be a better painter! RIP

I bought some BMF from Donn years ago at a PMSI model show In Hampton VA. Jake..Hats off to You buddy for keeping these videos going. RIP DONN...The Model car community misses you.

Oh ive.just read the comments its sad to hear the gentlemans death. Im so sorry to hear.

I love the variety of models from AMT!

It's a NO BRAINER! What's wrong with people! Thanks for putting out the facts!!! We wet sand metallic and pearls and then shoot 2K ultra high gloss on 50K movie RC aircraft every day and you see our work in Movies and TV shows worldwide. Great Video.

Learn a lot from this craftsman. Thank you for all your videos and wisdom. God bless old man.

You can completely paint strip a painted model with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Without damaging the plastic. Acrylics come off faster. A bit of soaking and a soft brush will take of lacquers. I never tried on enamels. It does not damage the plastics so if you have to remove it is worth a shot.

Never had a problem with Rustoleum brush paint on metal furniture. I am a outdoor model railroader & have only used Krylon spray paint to paint freight cars. Never had a problem spraying Krylon on plastic styrene 1:20.3 scale model freight cars. They still hold up under all kinds of weather. In my HO club Krylon is used on large buildings, e.g. steel mills, coking plants, sky scrapers, etc... No problems on plastic. No paint smell (Krylon also makes a water based paint). Krylon also has a UV resistant clear coat, great for outdoor models.

Thank you for this video! its 5 years old and still helping folks. After spending weeks paint matching a damage kitchen door in gloss grey, I finally found a match from Tikkurila. I then primed with light grey high built primer with LVLP gun, sanded and sprayed the gloss grey, thinned 10% with white spirits. The results were a much darker grey than that the paint chip I had matched was. I was stumped! tried polishing it out, buffing to try lighten it, nothing worked. I went back to the drawing board, sanded with 320, roughed up my beautiful gloss finish and primed with yellow car high build primer. The restuls were a much better paint match, the gloss grey from the same tin, thinned 10% again is now 99% the same as the paint chip. I tested with white primer on a spare MDF board, again the gloss grey is 99.9% the same. It is insane how the primer colour affects the base/top coat so much, even with a thick gloss paint which I would expect to hide the prime coat. I was told on another form to try purple tinted primer to get where I needed to be with the kitchen door paint matching but TBH yellow and white primer done it for me. Take note that mid grey primer with mid grey gloss base/top coat will turns the finish very dark.

The old kits tend to be junk. The body is the easy part. The frames etc. Can be a nightmare.