SIMARINE PICO Monitor Review and Install in RV

[@joshlavallee8139]

First impression: Beautiful! It's surprising that it's taken this long for the industry to come out with a retrofit option for tank and battery monitoring that is both beautiful in design, but also in functionality and customization. Awesome that it is connected and has mobile app support too! You didn't disappoint, Brian :). Thanks for the detailed component and install information, there is very little in the way of videos or RV install examples for the Pico, that I have found so far. I think this could be one of my first upgrades when we pick up a motorhome in the new year. I would be interested to know more information about other supported monitoring, ie: solar, inverter, generator, chassis battery, etc. Thanks!

[@RVwithTito]

Glad you liked it. Thanks for the feedback. Simarine has been focussed primarily on the marine applications of the PICO. All of their diagrams were marine installations, which is why I put together a diagram for my RV install. There's a link to it in the description and video. I also picked up an extra shunt module that I'll be installing to monitor my combined solar input on the PICO. Right now I have to switch between the PICO and the Victron app (for my charge controllers). The PICO shows my overall current in/out of the battery bank, but it subtracts it from the current load. I don't know how much exactly is coming in from solar.

[@rjahn3000]

Yes ! Marine stuff seems to be better quality, maybe the RV industry can take a lesson:)

[@AntoineGrondin]

The temperature sensor and wire fittings on the shunt are probably meant to measure the battery temperature. Those sensors usually needs to be straight on the battery to get as good a measurement of the internal temperature as possible. Putting the sensor away from the battery is probably defeating its purpose. Batteries heat up under heavy load or when they develop problems, and temperature is one of the most significant thing to look at to detect or diagnose problems. So if you're reading this comment, I'd double check the manufacturer's documentation, and probably put the sensor right next to the battery bank, instead of away from it.

[@RVwithTito]

I agree with you. Thanks for sharing your thoughts about this. I'm currently using the temperature sensor connected to my solar charge/batteriescontroller to for battery temp monitoring. This frees up the PICO temp sensor to be used for other purposes.

[@mikedevleming755]

Holy cow! First impression. Love your videos.

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks!

[@redroofretriever]

This is a great technology upgrade for RVs. Is the monitor adaptable or expandable to add more tank sensors => fuel tanks for toy haulers? Most have 2 tanks, 1 for gas to onboard generator, 1 for gas to toys. These tanks are always in the rear underbelly, so a long run of existing wire would or could be used?

[@RVwithTito]

Yes. You can add more. Any kind of voltage or resistance fuel level sensor will work as long as you can get to the sensor wiring. Long runs should be fine since there's very little current used.

[@Lesthehandyman]

i may put on in an rv but would like 5 temperature sensors 1. For the freezer in the motorhome 2.. For the refrigerator in the motorhome and to be able to set it if it drops below a certain temperature that it will sound an alarm 3. In the battery area 4. Motor temperature 5. Outside temperature As for fluid levels 1. GPL gas in main tank and in secondary tank 2. Greywater tank 3.Freshwater tank 4. Black water tank I don't know if this thing does windspeed and direction but sometimes it's necessary to know it would also be nice if it had a compass and it so you could point your vehicle and in the right direction if you want the optimal way to get your solar panels charged. I also clicked on their website because they actually have an RV version now however it's not finished yet and I don't know anything about it perhaps you can find out.

[@RVwithTito]

I'm still waiting on the RV version too. It probably has the new incline meter as part of it. BTW the temp sensors are on the shunts. I also wish they could be used elsewhere.

[@rjr-yp9uj]

Nice installation. Neat and clean. Many Rv DYI projects look like a DYI on a sailboat. Wires going everywhere. All exposed not even wire ties on them.

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks! Yeah. We don't like to see wires :) More work but worth it.

[@xax3902]

This question is a bit dated for this video , but couldnt you get the resistance values for your holding tanks by testing the wires into the original rv panel that correspond to each tank when they indicate levels you need for a reference Thanks Chad

[@RVwithTito]

Hi Chad. Yes. That's correct. I've done that and have essentially spliced into those wires and sent them to the PICO. I've found the tank level sensors just don't provide sufficient granularity to make them very accurate in the PICO. Plus they're using a common ground which messes the reading up when the engine starts or other components affect the resistance.

[@xax3902]

@@RVwithTito Thanks for getting bk to me - I have a few more ?s for you I noticed you went to Battle Born Batteries - have you been able to determine the C ratings for their batteries, to enter into your Simarine monitor. I ve gotten 2 diff answers from them : .5C w no value and C1 as a value of 100 for the 12v 100 AH battery. I ve read that Lithium discharge at 100% till it reaches approx. 11v so how are C ratings determined or am I lost on this 1. How are your new flex panel attachments holding up on your roof- I was searching for a better way to secure panels and that seems like a good fix. You must haul extra potable water w you if you only have 39 gal capacity to stay out longer dry camping Thanks again Chad

[@RVwithTito]

@@xax3902 You're not lost. The C ratings setup isn't critical with lithium. I have mine all set to 400 Ah for C5, C10 and C20 in the PICO. The flex panels are doing very well on the track. The only issue I've had is that one of the front vinyl pieces (not secured) flew off somewhere. I now have piece of double stick on the replacement to keep it from coming loose. You're correct about the water. We carry an extra 20-30 gallons of water to refill the tank as needed. We also filter all drinking water through an inexpensive water filter pitcher. Works and tastes great. Hope that helps!

[@xax3902]

I have another ? - I saw in 1 of your other solar videos where you do a walk through on your solar setup, you were using a digital shunt - looked like a Simarine shunt - would this shunt take the place of the Victron Smart shunt functions for monitoring your battery bank while providing monitoring of addl systems ? thanks Chad

[@RV4X40com]

Interesting device. Since it uses the existing contact style probes, is this unit still sensitive to the residual contamination in the holding tanks, particularly the black tank since it is usually the worst in terms of not reading accurately with the light system? And it looks like it displays a much higher resolution on the tanks than just 1/3, 2/3 and full that most of the light displays show? Thanks.

[@RVwithTito]

It reading the resistance from the tank sensor output. So any contamination will still be an issue. The PICO calculates the percentage full based on the calibration levels you enter. You can enter as many as you want as you get the system dialed in. Even though your tank may only have only 3 sensors, the output sensor resistance value still changes continuously even when levels are between sensors.

[@adammelchert]

This is a great video. Started by showing the product and then went into detail.

[@MarioElzen]

Love the look of the display. My only question is how accurate are those sensors that are on the tanks. I'm assuming you are using the existing sensors that came with the RV or did I miss something? The See Level 11 Tank Monitoring systems actually have a strip from top to bottom that is glued on the side of each tank and that senses the exact depth of the liquid inside which makes sense. How does the SIMARINE PICO product sense the existing three or four sensors that are spaced apart and mounted on the tanks and still maintain acurracy in percentage? It seems to me that the resistance is only isolated at those points of contact on the tanks to read the resistance and nothing in between. In other words, how does it determine the level between one sensor and the next sensor mounted on the tank? That is the issue I am having and the accuracy of the product. Otherwise, I love the product and its display.

[@RVwithTito]

You are correct. It's only as good as the sensors. To get it dialed in you have to estimate the percentage at each sensor using the resistance and a value (you can even add more values in between). Start will a FULL and an EMPTY value. It will take a bit of tweaking to get it right. The PICO helps by showing you the current resistance value and will then calculate the percentage. Because I had basic resistance sensors that were hard to dial in, I didn't use the tank sensor feature. I primarily used it for power management.

[@robertcarnaz4326]

Wow that’s exactly what I need… I’ve been watching you for a bit now and like all your content. I have a 1990 Prevost Liberty Coach. As you can imagine the outdated electronics have to be updated. I recently had to replace my 8d (2) I went with what I think is a good buy… but I really need to revamp the whole system… let me know if you need future content lol.

[@MrBlueDevil93]

Good product. Good music to the intro too Tito.

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks 👍

[@dirtroadsailing6418]

I'll throw in my two cents Brian. First of all it looks like a really nice unit as far as the user interface goes which is a definite plus. I think you blew most people away with your explanation of how to make the tank level sensors work, seemed way too complicated for all but the hardiest electrical nerds, which I'm one of. Needless to say I don't think many people would attempt to make that part functional. That leaves the electrical part, which there are a few companies that handle that part fairly well like Victron for a lower price. I'm sure it does other things that you didn't touch on like generator start/stop based on voltage and perhaps a few other things as well other than barometric pressure? I might be interested in it if they provided some better way to interface with tank level monitoring, like an easy way to interface with the See Level tank monitors. I think they'll struggle to break in to the RV world unless they offer an easier way to integrate their front end with everyone else's sensors or provide their own tank level sensors for both LP and water/black/gray.

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks for your thoughts. Getting the tank gauges setup was certainly the most difficult part of the install. I wanted to give folks who did decide to give it a go an explanation of what I had to do. I think they've heard the same integration feedback before. I read on Simarine's site/blog that they are working on supporting industry standard protocols. They are a new company, so it will be interesting to see where they go with this.

[@lebon2002be]

OMG ! I love this system, finaly something accurate, practical and beautiful to install in the RV. Shut up and take my money ! :-) I want/need one right now ! That makes RV living more enjoyable too in my opinion ! It's not that expensive after all. Great technology ! Once everything is installed it will give you all the information you need with just a touch of a button. Thanks for video ! Cheers, Roger.

[@RVwithTito]

Just spent a few days dry camping with this. It was really nice having everything right there....especially if you're a data/gauge junkie like me.

[@BKKKevin]

Great System!... Do they make a L adapter for the display wiring harness?... in my RV I would like to flush mount the screen on the bathroom wall that only has about 1” clearance inside... I don’t think that plug sticking out the back of the display will fit?...

[@RVwithTito]

I haven't seen one listed, but Simarine might have one. I certainly see why you'd need that adapter for a tight installation.

[@WhiteFox011]

Very cool, but didn't a lot of those indicators come stock with the RV? I do like how everything is all in one place.

[@RVwithTito]

Yes they do except for the battery and power management components.

[@c.wrightkunkle3681]

Isn’t the battery temperature sensor to monitor the battery temperature?

[@RVwithTito]

Yes. I have one on the battery. I have another shunt (with temp sensor) in my solar cabinet.

[@jimdykstra1920]

Nice Byan, we bought a new camper for us and next year Im planning to putting (10) 100 amp solar panels and plan to install this unit to max my configurations.

[@ryancraig652]

Love this project, can’t wait to add this here in the near future, trying to decide which package to get for my needs. Thanks for sharing.

[@RVwithTito]

I really love it, but primarily use it for battery, solar and other current monitoring. The tank monitoring is only as good as your sensors and is difficult to calibrate. So unless you really need tank monitoring, you could probably get by with just the electrical monitoring only.

[@ryancraig652]

RV with Tito DIY I spent last weekend dropping my underbelly insulation to measure my tanks because I was going to integrate better sensors like Pau Hana travels did to their tanks: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f3XJl6CehpqFoa8, and do your mod here to get a really good monitor. My only issue is a accurate tank monitor for the propane system I have, I have been told one is coming for either the Pico Simarine systems or the Sea Level system by Garnet Instruments/garnetinstruments.com

[@dand9244]

Wasn’t the temperature sensor for the batteries specifically to know when if it is healthy and safe to charge or discharge, not an ambient temperature gauge? Maybe I am wrong but the thought occurred to me, nice work Brian, as usual.

[@RVwithTito]

Only true if tied into the solar charge controller. The solar charge controller has it's own temp sensor.

[@saltysubmariner]

Brian, Dan D is right on this. The temperature of the battery is critical to the computer's capacity algorithm. As the capacity of the battery is a function of temperature, the temperature sensor should be mounted in the near proximity of the battery, or even on the battery case when the battery is in unenclosed space so that the algorithm does the computations correctly. Take a look-see at this about development of a capacity algorithm: www.diva-portal.org/smash/get/diva2:830232/FULLTEXT01.pdf Most manufacturers specify the battery capacity at 27 degrees Celcius, or about 80 degrees F. At 55 degrees F, the battery capacity will only be about 80% of what it is at 80 degrees F. Think about why your car will fail to start when it gets REALLY cold! And battery temperature is never constant, it will heat up during charge and discharge, so capacity is always changing.

[@kenlee6123]

Love the looks of this system, thanks for sharing and great explanation. When I go their site I was able to determine which system you actually installed and which if any optional modules you have in your install.

[@trons4u]

Great presentation Brian. Nice that you included on what you had to go through to get everything working. Looks like a nice system.

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks. I learned a thing or two during this project. It may look daunting, but once setup you don't have to do anything else.

[@DavidWhite]

Brian I had one when I lived on my sailboat, I was beta testing for them

[@mattadams7261]

Dave, what was the final verdict on it? Good or bad?

[@DavidWhite]

@@mattadams7261 It worked real well while it worked. It did seem sensitive to stray voltages. On a sailboat voltage spikes are a common problem. Lightning strikes, and weird voltages from marinas.

[@markperritte]

Yes please would love to know more. There are two models can I use the lesser one just want to keep a check on my batteries not sure if could make the tank system work

[@RVwithTito]

Sure. The basic battery monitor system may be all you need.

[@markperritte]

RV with Tito DIY do you know if the gas tank system can be used for something else on the smaller one. I have generator that uses the house battery to start it ,will it hurt the monitor shunt

[@RVwithTito]

My generator also uses the house batteries. Connect only the negative battery cable to the "battery" end of the shunt. All other negative connections to the rest of the RV loads (including the generator start) should be connected to the other end of the shunt. The shunt can handle up to 300 Amps.

[@markperritte]

RV with Tito DIY thank you for your time. Do you have a list of all the parts to get with the monitor system

[@RVwithTito]

Mark. They have a few different packages. I recommend the STANDARD package as a good starting point, plus it can be expanded. Here's a link: www.simarine.net/products/#packages

[@johnbutler2231]

Hoping you have done more videos on this system. Interested in the propane monitoring.

[@krzysztoforlowski6010]

Great review. What sensors do you have for propane level?

[@RVwithTito]

My tank just has the basic resistance sensor it came with. It's tied into the PICO. Truthfully, I just look at the tank to check the level since it doesn't change that much.

[@VegasTripp]

but can you just replace the old monitoring system with this new one? In the video you unscrewed the old one to look at the back. Can this unit just replace that one?

[@firpofutbol]

Hey Brian, I'm building a camper van from scratch and searching for water and lpg tank sensors that will work with this unit. Ordering a $1000 worth of product with your discount code from Simarine but first need to ensure I can find the right sensors. The propane sensor is especially tricky to find. What brand are your particular sensors for both fresh, grey water and lpg? Thanks again!!

[@jhclauseiv.]

Have any luck finding the proper sensors?

[@firpofutbol]

@@jhclauseiv. I have not installed it yet, will test put a few sensors in the coming months.

[@timarmstrong7627]

Does this have the ability to turn on a water pump and heater? I have the KIB K21 Monitor Panel System and would absolutely love to upgrade. Especially since I'm installing a solar system too.

[@tomforti]

What are you using for propane sensor?

[@summervance]

This looks awesome BUT it doesn't monitor 110V draw....is there a loophole to this? A monitoring step before the inverter?

[@RVwithTito]

It only monitors DC. If you have a shunt directly inline with your inverter then just divide the current by 10. For example, a 50 amp draw at 12VDC will be roughtly a 5 amp draw on 120VAC.

[@ChrisDIYerOklahoma]

Far, Out! Could def use something like that in my builds (solar power generators). Cost is kinda steep and I have zero use for tank levels. Maybe it could be tailored/designed differently? Would be cool to have one dedicated for solar/wind guys for around $100. However, it is really slick, intuitive, and has a clean looking display. Nice work and video...

[@RVwithTito]

They do have a model that's just a battery monitor, but yeah...more than $100. I'll be adding another shunt to see my solar output as well. Right now I have to switch between the victron app and this monitor.

[@health101DOTorg]

Another great video Brian! But all battery monitor systems I've seen have a setting for Peukert's Exponent. For some batteries it's 1.15, for others it's 1.05 and this helps the capacity measuring be more accurate. But I didn't see that as a setting. Does it have this?

[@RVwithTito]

I don't think so. You enter 3-4 C ratings and it "learns" after a few cycles. Thanks for the info!

[@en8581]

Nice video- thanks! Can you please tell us what resistance tank monitor brand/model you are using? Thanks.

[@RVwithTito]

Don't know. Just the stock hi-med-low sensors. I'm still having to tweak them regularly since the resistance values seem to fluctuate.

[@joeemmons9948]

Tito i purchased tyhis sytem for my thor Toy hauler i am having trouble with getting a reading on my tanks. i double checked my wiring is correct "example white wire is the common for all tanks blue wire is the 3 sensors for the fresh water i can only get a reading of 65535 ohm. did you experiance this or have any idea where to look for help?

[@klyonsden]

Whew. Quite a bit over my head. I will have to watch this video several more time to get my brain wrapped around this. It looks like something I would definitely buy. Just don't get the calibration yet.

[@GTS328]

Wanted to ask you a question or two. I purchased, and installed a standard package and added a few other accessories that I like. After installing it I discovered when the display circle shows 100% charged, and the total Ah has been reached, there still is about 60-70 amps that is continuing to charge the batteries. That makes the whole display inaccurate not only at fully charged but 50% discharged (for flooded batteries). Was wondering if you had any advice as to where I might look to uncover that reason for this? I suspect there are some devices that use frame ground rather than going through the Shunt. Your class C appears to be much like mine so I suspect wiring might be similar. The negative shunt is place at the end of the battery banks' negative connection and the negative input to the inverter/charger. The opposite end of the negative battery bank is also connected to chassis frame ground so the engine alternator can charge while underway. Thoughts/suggestions?

[@saildulcinea]

Great video, looking at this system for our yacht so good to see how it works and its capabilities. I have a question, how do you monitor LPG (propane)? you mentioned a magnetic sensor, just wondering if you have any more info on that, brand, where I could buy one online etc. Thanks!

[@RVwithTito]

Overall I really like the system. I don't currently use the LP gauge on the PICO. So I don't have any new info on that. I think I would have to run new wires directly from the sensor to get it working right. It fluctuates as the resistance to ground changes in the RV. So I just look at the gauge on the tank.

[@markw6602]

Pretty slick device. Might just have to install one on my rv. Thanks for the great review.

[@RVwithTito]

You're welcome!

[@smorariu]

Hey Brian, You had a shunt for your old BMS. Did you add the PiCO Shunt (two shunts), replace your old shunt with the PiCO, or scab the PiCO on top of your old one?

[@RVwithTito]

I removed the old one and replaced it with the pico shunt. I also just added another shunt for my solar inputs.

[@kevgermany]

Looks good. But are you sure the battery capacity at different C values are correct. Usually the lower C value the higher the capacity. C values are the ratio between current and capacity, not how long it takes to discharge.

[@RVwithTito]

The settings call for Ah capacity for at least three multiple C ratings. The spec sheet for my batteries had Wh capacity for C20 (standard), C10, and C5. I converted the Wh values to Ah. I now have 400Ah of Lithium batteries with a pretty flat discharge curve. So all three calibration points are now set to 400Ah.

[@kevgermany]

@@RVwithTito thanks

[@keithdoubleday9279]

Question for you. I currently have a Vitron BMV712 today and one of the disadvantages with that unit is the accurate display of the State of Charge SOC that shows the % of remaining battery. With flooded and ASM batteries specifically, you should only use up to 50% of the actual capacity of the battery. Does this system allow the SOC display to based on usable battery capacity - meaning 50% of the total Ah number?

[@RVwithTito]

I don't believe so. What you can do is set an alarm to warn you know when it gets to 50%. You can program it for any value.

[@blackstock333]

Hello Tito. I am installing this system in my RV and I also tapped into the wires of the original tank monitor panel to run to the ST107. The pico seems to work fine reading the tank levels but the original monitor panel now reads funny. Any ideas why? It seems like I have effected the resistance maybe. I did use solid sprinkler wire maybe that did something. I would really like to have both monitors working so they can double check each other. Thanks,

[@RVwithTito]

I haven't been able to use both either. Whenever I press the switch on the old monitor it works but messes up the readings on the PICO for a while. So I don't use the old one anymore. It probably changes the resistance when activated like you said. For best results you'll probably have to run direct wires from each sensor to the PICO tank module. Of course we didn't do that. It's also wired to chassis ground which affects my tank levels on the pico when the engine is running. While parked for a while it settles out.

[@AmericanJustice22022]

Good stuff but why didn’t you show us the full install?

[@RVwithTito]

The full install is mostly running wires through cabinets. This will certainly be different for each RV. Let me know if you have specific questions about any part of the install.

[@AmericanJustice22022]

Hey Brian, Yes I'm aware that its different in every RV but it will give us an idea of just how difficult an install like this might be, love watching your magical hands go to work. I am a DIY person and love taking on projects, but would also like to know what Im getting into before I attempt to do something that I can't finish and watching videos like yours helps us DIYers understand and see if we can take on the task, but anyway thanks so much for your videos, I certainly enjoy watching them.

[@genejmcd]

Great system. You did a fantastic job explaining it.

[@danhayes3898]

Just a quick question - The ST107 has a resistive input of 0-65K Ohms and Most RV Water Tanks are set up for about 120K at 1/3 full. Did you connect a resistor in parallel with the tanks, and if so, what value did you use?

[@RVwithTito]

I just filled up the tank to each level then looked at what the PICO said the resistance was. That was the value I used for the calibration point. I need to look into what your saying though.

[@RobMan]

Great video. I love the look and function of that product. While the complexity of the install doesn't really turn me away from trying it, the fact that it still uses the old unreliable tank sensors kinda does.

[@RVwithTito]

Yeah. It's only as good as the sensors unfortunately. Luckily I can actually look at my tanks and gauge the level so that's what I rely on mostly.

[@RVHabit]

Very sharp looking. I am going to have to look into this. I like that it can use the current tank monitoring wires. I would be interested in a follow up more detailed video.

[@RVwithTito]

So far, I like it. I've been getting the tanks dialed in and adding more calibration points as we are out dry camping. I'm pretty close now.

[@robmeaney8091]

Can you control the furnace with this unit as well?

[@RVwithTito]

No. Just a monitor with no thermostat features.

[@kevinkidderphotographer]

I purchased the Pico blue and through a bit of frustration have managed to get it mostly setup. I still can not get the ST107 to work with the level sensors (same reading regardless of level or probes attached). Seems that I have to purchase another shunt also, since the voltage/current levels of the SCQ25 run lower than my system max values

[@mbcaoc651]

Can you do a video on how to get internet and wifi in a coach?

[@RVwithTito]

There are lots of ways. I use a Verizon mobile device. Go checkout the Mobile Internet Resource center channel. They have tons of videos on that topic. Good luck.

[@ChuckKyle]

When you installed the shunt, did you remove your other voltage monitoring system shunt, it put this one in series? I have a Victron system now and am trying to figure out if I can run both, or only use one. Thanks

[@RVwithTito]

You should be able to run both as Battery Shunt Shunt Loads. You'll just need a short cable to connect the two shunts then each is connected to it's monitor. I removed the other one and am just using the PICO shunt. I also added a second shunt for my solar. Cool stuff.

[@ChuckKyle]

@@RVwithTito excellent. I got the PICO in within four days of ordering it. I just switched my lead acid (2 x 12v 27 group) with AGM (2 x 12v 31 group). I have a Victron 700 monitor but really didn't want to "replace" it. I will do the shunt series, and install the Pico next weekend. My application?? Pico to monitor the black, grey, fresh, and LP. I am also going to run a temp probe inside the fridge. I have a Norcold that we are always adjusting the cold>>>coldest setting trying to read the temp off of a thermometer we have sitting in a crisper. I also use Olivertherv to go snow skiing, so I am going to run a temp probe under the bathroom sink. The reason being it is where my hot/cold water lines run and if it gets below 32 degrees, my plumbing freezes. Having a temp probe there will allow me to know if I need to turn on a small electric heater to keep the pipes thawed. The last temp probe will just be in the RV. Our old Dometic thermostat you have to hit the button to see the room temp, now we will just be able to display it. Thanks again for all the posts. Now time to run over to another of your videos and start talking solar, lol.

[@RVwithTito]

Awesome. You can also set an alarm on the temp sensor under the sink to alert you when it's getting close to freezing. The options are under the "Data" menu in settings.

[@ChuckKyle]

@@RVwithTito That would be legit. On my list of things to remember.

[@RVwithTito]

Just watched your retirement speech :) Spot on. Saturday, we attended my close friend's 37 yr USAF retirement.

[@davidmorrish2307]

Question, monitor systems require good sensors. What sensors do you recomend, particularly for water, grey and black tanks?

[@steveswoodworkingrossiter196]

I enjoy your videos n the info. thnks. Question. We're looking to add solar panels. I've listened to you n others. I'd like to start out small n have the ability to add on. Looking at Renogy. Maybe 100-200watt. Use their controller? Add a battery to increase storage capacity? Your thoughts?

[@RVwithTito]

If you plan to dry camp, i would start with at least 200Ah of batteries and 2x100w panels. If you plan to add panels make sure your charge controller will accommodate the added voltage or amps otherwise you'll have to buy another one. I always recommend spending your money on a good controller to start. Another option for you is to invest in a 200w portable solar kit. Minimal installation required. Just connect it to your battery and store it when you don't need it. Hope that helps.

[@steveswoodworkingrossiter196]

@@RVwithTito thnks for your input. I agree. I'm adding a 2nd batt n a 200w portable kit. your thoughts on a controller would be appreciated. Steve.

[@billmcroberts6566]

1st impression...WOW!

[@ChuckKyle]

Just installed the Pico. When you spliced it with your current tank leds are you able to monitor with both systems? I am assuming no. I did the same thing, found the proper lines for each tank, for instance the grey tank was a grey wire on the back of the panel and the white wire (common) to each. Doing a quick splice I do get a reading from the tank on the panel and the pico. However, adding the Pico the panel now shows the grey tank is full. Did you have the same experience?

[@RVwithTito]

Yes. I have them spliced but don't use the old one anymore. I had a similar experience when pressing the "check level" switch on the "old" monitor. I think the old monitor changes the resistance on the line when it checks it and it takes a few minutes to change back to normal and read properly on PICO. So I don't use the old one even though it's still wired up.

[@ChuckKyle]

RV with Tito DIY Happy New Year. Are you still using the Pico for your tanks? If yes, any issues at all?

[@RVwithTito]

@@ChuckKyle Happy New Year to you too. Yes I'm still using the Pico for the tanks but realize it's only as good as my sensor outputs (pretty basic). It's usually plus/minus 10-20% accurate. I've also noticed that the values jump around when I have the engine running or when on shore power at times (especially my LP). I think it changes the resistance to the ground since everything shares the same ground. I primarily use the PICO for battery and power monitoring. Were you able to get your tank monitors setup?

[@ChuckKyle]

@@RVwithTito okay I went with a little more involved system, lol. I added a second ST107. The intent was run three tanks (fresh, black, grey), LP, and four thermometers (inside frig, under RV (outside), inside RV (inside temp), and one under the bathroom sink (okay it is on the back side of the outside water fill area and gets the coldest. We use our RV all winter long to ski, so knowing when to kick on the small heater in the bathroom is important to keep things from freezing). The LP seems to work great. I took four calibration points (one empty, one full, and did a full minus use twice on fill-up). The fresh water worked for a few days, now it shows empty. However, I can look through the clearish container and see where the water sits against the sensors. If I disconnected the pico and reconnect the stock LED panel it reads correctish (E,1/3, 2/3, F). Black water worked once. I purchased a flow meter on Amazon and took a reading every 5 gallons as I filled the black water tank. After that, dumped the tank and it has never shown another reading. Again, disconnect the Pico and reconnect the LED, and get a reading. Grey water, well its about the same as the black and fresh. Temperature gauges, I only installed three. Getting to the bathroom was going to be a wiring nightmare so I wanted to make sure the others worked first. The one in the fridge seems to be off by 15 degrees. I have a cheap frig thermostat that just lays inside. The pico (38-42 degrees) and the cheapo fridge (22-28 degrees) are about 15 (+/-5) degrees off. So which is correct? Since the grapes were frozen I will go with the cheap one, not the pico. The inside RV thermometer seems about right. I compare it to the Domenic thermostat. However, the outside seems again about 20 degrees on the high side (it was snowing and the gauge showed 62F). I have a Victron battery monitor so it is the one that I primarily use. I don't think I have done a good job of setting up the Pico. More to follow on that. At this point I really am not sure how to "fix" my issues. I have emailed Simarine several times with little response. The pico looks fantastic, however I would give is a 1 out of 5 for working. I was going to email you a picture of my overhead display, based on your inspiration, but I couldn't find an email on your site, nor a way to attach to youtube. I am going to do some troubleshooting tomorrow to see if I can figure something out :-) I think its time for use to find another one. I love the idea of the panel with the temp probes and the digital tank meters, I hate the LED display.

[@BackyardProspector]

Is the propane meter very accurate? Thanks

[@mikesi5531]

Great video and very good explanation! When you say wifi is 'not that good' ,what do you mean? What's the range? I understand it can upload data to a server? How long can you log? Thanks and regards, Mike

[@RVwithTito]

In order to view and manage the device via the mobile app the device uses a dedicated WiFi connection between itself and your mobile device. There is no connection to the Internet. In fact you have to disconnect from any other wifi or mobile data in order to connect to the PICO and use the app. The range issue applies only when accessing the PICO remotely via the app. I wish I could be further away. Sorry for the late response. I did see the comment. Just haven't gotten to it. Hope that answers your question. Cheers!

[@mikesi5531]

@@RVwithTito Thanks for the answer! Sorry, I don't understand the "dedicated WiFi".If it's not Bluetooth, where does the wifi come from? From my own router/wifi -network? But then it would connect to the internet, no? I just don't get the concept. Cheers,

[@LoveTheLand]

Hi Tito and thanks for the review. Do you know what type of grey/black water sensors are recomended by the manufacturer for this system?

[@williamklein6749]

More than twice the current price of a Victron 702. Admittedly, there are more features but, IMO this is only for folks who's "cool" factor far outweighs their frugal factor. Especially true for those who already have a good tank monitor system.

[@RVwithTito]

Understood. It's certainly not for everyone especially if you're satisfied with your current setup. The Victron 702 or 712 are certainly good battery monitors. The PICOone package is probably the closest in comparison and goes for around $310 after the discount. Thanks for the comment!

[@firpofutbol]

Wow this looks like just what I've been looking for, is the discount still available? You mention something about relay function: I am hoping that based on battery state of charge, that this can disconnect load if I pair it with a relay type load disconnect like a Victron battery protect. Is this type of function what you alluded to in the video? Thanks in advance!

[@RVwithTito]

Yes the discount is still available. I believe you can set alarms on battery SOC and trigger a relay. I don't have that setup though so I'd have to try it out.

[@paullundell8009]

That looks fabulous. Hope it works great. I'll have to check it out. I currently have a victron battery monitoring system. It has a shunt. Do you happen to know if i'd have to remove the victron shunt and system? I don't have it now, but am thinking of changing my solar charging and adding a victron solar charger. This is why I ask. Thanks.

[@RVwithTito]

I really like it. You can use your Victron 700 or 712 with this. You'll just install the PICO shunt in series with your Victron shunt. I also have Victron charge controllers. I just added a second shunt to measure total amps from both victron controllers. I don't need to use the Victron app as much now.

[@Count_Smackula]

Wow! Killer unified monitoring system. One question - how would it handle dual propane tanks? Read them separately, or as a whole? Again, another great video Brian!

[@RVwithTito]

I'm not sure. I think it depends on what sensors you have now. You should at least be able to do have them listed separately. I know the current sensors can be added together. I don't think the tanks can though. Might be a good option for them to add.

[@tomhendriks7953]

Propane sensors are often 0 to 90 ohm. So you can wire the in series and configure 180 ohm full tanks.

[@Count_Smackula]

Thanks much for the input!

[@rickl6697]

I know this is a 4yr old video but does it use the same tank sensors that came with the original RV?

[@RVwithTito]

Yes. It uses the existing resistance sensors but you have to constantly calibrate the monitor to get an accurate reading. There are better marine sensors you could install that may work better with the PICO.

[@matthewlambert2524]

Hey Tito! Great video. Do you think the Simarine tank monitor will integrate with the SeeLevel sensor board without the SeeLevel monitor? Believe it or not, I do not have a level monitor currently on my black tank and hoped to install the SeeLevel sensor board.

[@swabbievet]

I sure enjoy the video's. You do a great job in explaining how you do things. I bought a new Class C, 2017 Jayco 26Y, and the only upgrade I have done was the front sway bar and might not do anything else for awhile. I was wondering, because of all the work you have done to yours, do you think you will ever get rid of it? You should know your motor home inside and out by now and I would think it would be pretty hard to part with.

[@RVwithTito]

You would be correct 😊

[@swabbievet]

That's what I thought. Keep up the video's and I might do one of your upgrades some day. My wife wants to boon dock more which would require solar. I am really leery about drilling holes in something this new. If it were older I would feel better about it.

[@GeoffHardcastle]

Can you use this with SeeLevel Stick-on gauges?

[@RVwithTito]

No. Don't think so.

[@RVLifeNOW]

How many things have to connect to make this work, is my first impression...but gonna keep watching to see how it’s setup. -Rebecca

[@Bruce-ub8dv]

So how does this compare to using the Victron Color Control Panel? I know victron has tank resistance sensors.

[@RVwithTito]

I haven't messed with the Victron Color Control much (just the basic controller and battery monitors). I'm pretty sure it monitors and controls only Victron equipment via the VE.bus network. Don't hold me to that. Simarine PICO is just the monitoring piece. The tank monitors are designed to work with any resistance or voltage monitor. It takes a bit of programming and calibration to get it dialied in.

[@The.2.Minute-Man]

Looks good but cant you get all that info from a standard install that comes with new caravan or R.V.

[@timothybrown627]

What LPG sensors are you using?

[@tomhendriks7953]

Good video and great gear, I installed a pico plus a bunch of sensors in mu Knaus Sun TI because the original equipment suck. Those RV manufacturers seem to live in another century... With the pico you know exactly how much is left in the batteries and tanks. Good configurability, good looks. I agree completely on the mentioned cons especially the main screen and wifi are number one for improvement.

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks for the comment. It's great getting feedback from someone else using the system. I'm very interested in following what Simarine goes with this unit.

[@ChuckKyle]

Great video. I just went on their website and ordered one for our RV. Quick side note, have you replaced your black water probes? if yes, did you just use factory replacements, or something better?

[@RVwithTito]

Sweet! I'm still using the stock 3 probes for the black and gray. They are tucked into an area I don't think I could even access. So I hope they don't fail. What I've done is to add a couple more resistance calibration levels based on looking down the toilet and observing the level. The more calibration points you have, the more accurate the gauges will be.

[@ChuckKyle]

haha. I have never ventured to look in that hole. I have a 2014 unit (Thor Siesta 24SA) and the stock probes failed in year two. I replaced them with the Horst probes, which seem to work okay, but my standard panels almost always show my black water at 3/4 even after a dump. I am assuming that they are using a resistance also, so the Pico will show the same until I can figure out why it doesn't take long for the black water to have a false indication. I figured as soon as the Pico comes in, I will do a real cleaning of the holding takes, replace the probes, and start from scratch. Again, thanks for the great videos.

[@RVwithTito]

Happens to me often too. It's usually toilet paper sticking ot the probes. I clean it often by spraying it with a tank wand then filling the tank to full. Then I let it sit for a couple hours or even a day before emptying it out. That usually does the trick.

[@94auwing]

Any updates on the system

[@housesOTR]

Looks better than my bmv 712, which by the way had not worked currently since I installed it. How it's the customer service? Victron won't help me at all. I agree with your wife, had meaningful information on the screen.

[@RVwithTito]

They were very helpful answering my questions. Unfortunately I don't have any other experience with their support as a regular customer. They are located overseas in Slovenia so there's the time difference.

[@jaykaydee5772]

Love the screen - very professional looking

[@ubergigglefritz]

Also, is there a way to do generator auto-start with this device? And will the US distributor, Ocean Planet, honor the 10% discount?

[@RVwithTito]

I don't believe it's designed for that out-of-the-box. You can configure an output to apply power when an event alarm condition is encountered. Regarding Ocean Planet, my guess is no. You can ask them. The discount code is only valid when ordered through Simarine.net.

[@616Drones]

Nicely done Brian, well done!

[@mnmandthegang]

Very nice first impression. great video

[@debrahayes2572]

WOW! Pretty cool! You must be an electrician and a carpenter. You always do a nice job. 👍

[@RVwithTito]

Glad you liked the install. Still lovin this thing.

[@walleyeye]

Good informative video! Very interesting product. Not sure about the cost as the prices on their website was in euro’s which made me wonder if this is available in North America or Canada yet.

[@RVwithTito]

They've been selling in Europe mostly up to this point. It'll covert to USD at purchase I'm sure and they'll ship to your door in just a few days.

[@bobbafett1971]

Great product. But I have an 05 Georgie boy. Hard to get info if I had a newer RV. I'd definitely do this upgrade

[@mikekendig6781]

Great video & product line. Mike

[@jasonsinclair4482]

You've had it for about 6 months now. Still happy?

[@RVwithTito]

Yes. I use it primarily for power and battery monitoring and it's awesome for that. I've added a second shunt module for my solar and temperature sensor to measure outside and compartment temps. I don't rely on it for precise tank monitoring though. It's only as accurate as the sensors in your RV. If your level sensor only has three sensors, then you can't expect the PICO to be more accurate. Having said that, the level indicators are close enough for me (+/- 10-15%). Hope that helps.

[@Jetiexperte]

Hi, are you still happy with the system?

[@RVwithTito]

I am. I've had some struggles with firmware upgrades and tank monitoring accuracy in the past. Not all of it has to do with the PICO though. All in all I really like it.

[@MikeManning]

I would definitely like to see more. Maybe more automation tasks, such as generator startup at low battery power. I've been thinking the SeeLevel system by Garnet Instruments would be the best option for tank levels. Do you know if the SeeLevel system would work with SIMARINE?

[@JansenTeam]

Wow! First thought is ...How much? Second thought...Why is display so small?

[@RVwithTito]

Yes. Of course. That's always my thought. It's a little more than the Victron or TriMetric monitors now. Price depends on what you get. There are several options available depending on your needs. A basic battery monitoring package runs just over $300 USD with the discount. Their website lists in Euros, so I've converted to dollars. Once you add more sensor modules the price goes up of course. The system they sent me was the Blue Package which is currently their most expensive because there are more modules. For basic RV battery and tank monitoring I would go with the PICO Standard package which runs just over $400 with the discount.

[@markshea8352]

Bryan, amazing video..again.. you must be a electrical engineer, as evidenced by another great session on wiring.. truly fascinating to watch...keep them coming.

[@shokojimhollingsworth3940]

Wow, that is impressive. Maybe on my next upgrade!

[@RainDancerVideo]

Great video, thanks for sharing the information

[@RVwithTito]

You bet 👍

[@swh5113]

Great video, very detailed explanation for a complex system. Thanks for sharing

[@almarigney6429]

Whats a good WiFi for an rv thats not to expensive??

[@RVwithTito]

WiFi? Do you mean a WiFi booster? Lots of folks use the WiFi Ranger (amzn.to/2KZowyc) but they are not cheap. I don't use a WiFi booster anymore since we use mobile data for internet now.

[@ThePyleDriver]

Love it an am seriously considering it vs. my current Victron Bluetooth based monitor. The ability to add multiple shunt monitors for all three of my charging sources as well as important individual consumer circuits is huge as is the ability to mount the panel in a primary "stopped" location while being able to monitor it underway via apps. The only deal breaker for me, as you noted, is having to connect via AP mode. My Android headunit (in dash) connects to an always-on WiFi network and displays a lot of information I value while driving (Torque, streaming audio, etc.). For this system to be worth investing in (I calculate $625 with the discount and exchange rate) I'd need to be able to run their app on my Android headunit and connect via my existing WiFi network. This would enable me to monitor power details live from the front seat while leaving the panel mounted in the rear sleeping area. A bonus would be if they could come out with a wireless temperature sensor so I can monitor my Engel fridge / freezer. As it is, I won't be drilling a hole in it or running wires in through the lid seal. Thanks for another great video and introducing another great product - you produce some of the best content on KZbin on these topics. The marine market sure has a lot of quality components to take advantage of!

[@RVwithTito]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I hope SIMARINE will consider that change. A while ago, I mounted a small voltage gauge on my drivers side so I can monitor my house battery voltage as I drive. It's been very useful. I'll probably share that in a future video. As a workaround, I thought of using an old smart phone just as a wifi monitor for the PICO.

[@devmich99]

There was a firmware upgrade a few weeks ago introducing the STA (Station) mode for WIFI. That way you should be able to hook up the Pico to your network router and connect to the Pico from your mobile via the router.

[@thyresias194]

Very nice and look good

[@PhotoAlbert]

Definitely a very cool system but way beyond my capability to install. I just wish my current tank sensors were accurate.

[@RVwithTito]

Most of our tanks only have 3 sensor levels which also tend to fluctuate. Something I learned during this install. The sensor setup allows you to set more calibration points which can help dial it in more. Yeah. It's not an entry level project for sure.

[@Assassin1959]

I love shit like this.... nice job!!! How long it took to run all the wires? Do you know who will install something like this in the USA?

[@RVwithTito]

The whole project took a few days to plan and execute (and film). Several hours was for wiring. I used existing wiring paths that I'd used before. You could probably get a friend who's familiar with DC battery system installations to help you out.

[@pauladams1156]

Jeez...how much do all those agm’s weigh?

[@RVwithTito]

They were heavy. 70 lbs each.

[@pauladams1156]

RV with Tito DIY wouldn’t you be better off with lithium for the weight & fuel savings??

[@RVwithTito]

@@pauladams1156 Yes. Check out my more recent videos. I've already upgraded to Lithium :)

[@brianq-peep9816]

Wow. I am interested!

[@djal1030]

can you talk in explaining what it does.?