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How to check diesel 1.4 HDI glow plugs? 70/68 KM (HP) (8HZ / 8HY / DV4 TD / DV4TD / DV4C DV4 C) Citroën / Citroen C3 II / PSA Peugeot Renault DS 3 Ford 1.4 TDCI Mazda (twin construction to 1.6 HDI) EDC16
I've been getting an error for some time:
Error P1351 - Pre / post heating relay circuit / permanent fault / relay controlled and spark plugs not supplied (C3 II glow plug relay location / glow plugs preheat relay location / pre-heater)
I found that they could be burnt / burned / damaged glow plugs - but before replacing them, I decided to check them to make sure that it was not a module / relay controlling the glow plugs - it is responsible for heating the candles at negative temperatures or for heating the glow plugs after starting the engine while the engine is still cold.
Due to poor access and the need to disassemble the air filter - or rather the entire air filter housing, I decided to measure the candles with a multimeter and a clamp meter so as not to have to unscrew the same twice, and then possibly replace them :)
I managed to get a scrap of a schematic on the internet - but still didn't know where that glow plug relay was on this C3 II 1.4 HDI - but I ran into a short video on the internet and was able to track it down!
The measurements showed potentially damaged 3 glow plugs, and I also had measurements from a movie recorded some time ago, where on the oscilloscope I saw the consumption of 52A / 54A during the initial heating of the glow plugs - now the consumption was around 12A so the theory would be confirmed.
(See this video here: Cold petrol vs cold diesel - how much electricity does an engine need in winter? • Zimna benzyna vs zimny... )
I only replaced three candles, because I did not want to spoil my day with a possible struggle - I fumble in my car myself, I take it on my chest that this candle may fall out soon :)
When unscrewing, if you do not know the breaking torque of the candle - you can set the torque wrench just to tighten it (like I did and set 10Nm and I tried to unscrew the candles and it went amazingly easy and smooth :))
If the candles do not want to unscrew and the torque wrench exceeds the set torque, i.e. it simply "clicks" - apparently an effective way is to flood the spark plug socket with engine oil and drive with a wet candle seat for a week - the heating and cooling cycles of the spark plug and the engine block / head will slow it down slowly penetration of the thread and it may facilitate unscrewing - the oil will not evaporate during this time, unlike other agents or liquids, such as kerosene.
And you, what ways do you know how to unscrew glow plugs or save them after breaking them?
Why do glow plugs stuck? Why do glow plugs break off?
Often the plug and its thread are made of other metals and there is corrosion due to different metal potentials, such as a steel plug in contact with an aluminum block / head.
Do you lubricate glow plugs when replacing them? On the one hand, any presence of grease can prevent sticking of the glow plugs - on the other hand, the tightening torque is strongly related to friction - tightening parameters are given and rather dry calculated. The use of any type of lubricant can reduce friction and cause a greater angle of rotation than with the calculated 10Nm "dry" (another topic about tightening screws by the given angle is more precise than giving the torque only :)). Therefore, tightening a glow plug with grease can cause it to be over-tightened and damaged - even glow plug manufacturers have different recommendations for lubricating the plugs. Some recommend using their own specifics for glow plugs, while others require dry assembly and tightening - and how do you do? :)
And if you have read this description to the end - write "measuring sock" in the comment;)
Nice watch!
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