Safely Lift E9X M3 onto Jack Stands

[@Emily-ld4ft]

I was trapped under my car so I decided to watch this video while I was trapped. Very informative. Still under the car though.

[@rhafzal]

Thank you for the detailed instructions. Helps me a lot. So much conflicting info out there. Cheers.

[@HackyCraft]

Glad it helped. I recently bought a quickjack. If you need to spent and time under your car, it is worth a look.

[@rhafzal]

​@@HackyCraft ATM Thanks for your recommendation. Quickjack is on a long list of tools in my wishlist but don't have a garage ATM and working on the driveway in the UK is a lot of fun as it is. LOL but defo one day when I have a garage then will invest in a quickjack. You planning on doing any more videos?

[@Mrbfgray]

It's nearly midnight and I had yet to lift the back end of mine (ever, purchased 2011, 6 moths ago) and couldn't find the jack point, suspected the diff housing but didn't dare until confirmed. TY. Got my sub!!! I want to change ALL the fluids now that it's 8 yr.s and 47k miles with incomplete records.

[@Medea007]

ISTA shows you how.

[@BenjaminHirsch1]

Thanks for making this.

[@bestariel._.yuh029]

Oh yeah gotta get some work done on my E92 M3. You got subscribed!

[@markmancino9525]

Well detailed and informative

[@jnavonoD]

Thanks for the vid; should have watched it before jacking up mine and bending a control arm (feel free to laugh at my stupid ass).

[@shangeetibodo2496]

pretty clear ,,thanks

[@acsbimmer]

What rubber piece did you use between the jackpads and Jack stand?

[@HackyCraft]

acsbimmer I purchased pads on Amazon. They were not too expensive. You need at least 4 in order to get the car on stands.

[@acsbimmer]

Project M3 are they just called jack stands pads? Or are they shaped to fit inside the jack pad?

[@HackyCraft]

I purchased 4 of these. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XK4NZMS/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It looks like the switched to polyurethane. I like the rubber ones.

[@XRP_Junkee]

how do these fit safely on the jack posts if the base of the jack pad is round and the jack post is an odd "U" shape? I'd be paranoid about them slipping off.

[@HackyCraft]

gleung627 I make sure that the plastic Jack points rest within the bottom of the "u". The rubber Jack pads confirm to the shape of the Jack stands. I am not sure how will it would work with the plastic version of the Jack pads. I prefer the rubber pads.

[@hmccormi]

The first comment is what happens when your silly teenaged daughter finds your KZbin channel! 🤣

[@goognamgoognw6637]

need to get a jack and stands for my E92 M3 zcp also. Nice video, helpful in visualizing the jack points. I also checked your gear, i see it's a harbor freight jack. This aluminium jack construction looks good but the reviews say the hydraulic pump for the Pittsburg (HF) version of it is the weak link . Also you don't seem to trust your stands. I would not acquire any stand that is not 100.00% safe for the job.

[@HackyCraft]

I tend to be more "belt and suspenders". I trust the jack stands. I also trust the jack. I have used both to do much more difficult work under my last car...s2000. when the car is very rigid, the weight of the car can actually sit on 3 points. It can then be very easy to knock out one stand. In the off chance that I do something stupid, I like having a little insurance. That is why I add another jack stands or two. When working on a car at the track, I usually work on the jack (generally a bad idea) but have a wheel strategically placed to catch the car if the jack fails. You will see it often at track days. The stands and Jack are all fine. I think human error is more of a concern. Fun fact, the majority (I can not remember the percentage) of helicopter crashes are attributed to pilot error.

[@goognamgoognw6637]

Owner bias... Of course, dumb decisions and bad jugement alone are sufficient for accidents to happen with perfectly safe tools, but a bad stand is all it takes no matter human error. Helicopters are not made in China at low cost with poor quality control. I did my research for a month on this and the ratchet style stands are far from safe. They're all made and welded in China no matter the brand and for that design to be absolutely safe (unlike the pin stand) it requires some tolerances and quality control. The cam nose radius must be smaller than the column ratchet teeth dig and parts tolerances must position it so as to create two points of contacts on the column one horizontal the other vertical but plenty of these ratchet jacks are faulty and work on one point of contact only due to various defect including bend cam pin, cam radius too big (faulty design). When a ratchet stand operates on a single point of contact It will still hold tons by friction but take a hammer and give a good blow to the ratchet jack and whaaam down it goes. Yes, people have been smashed / killed by ratchet jacks. One guy lived to tell the story. There was no warning sign he had been working for a while when suddenly the ratched stand collapsed to minimum height. He survived only from luck. The reason i would only trust pin style stands (all stands are chinese basically) is because their safety does not rely on Chinese tolerance and quality control.

[@huskyfox9476]

the order is wrong - its a wrong way to lift a Bmw like that. you are only able to lock the wheels in the rear. The next point ist the heavy motor and gearbox in the front will try to grab the car forward - so you go Front first, otherwise it isnt safe. Got a 335i e92 (heavy lowered) and i do it like this: 1. Lock in Gear + Handbrake 2. put a woodpiece with enough clearance underneath one front wheel, or 2 if you like it even but it doesnt matter. 3. Lift at the bar that holds the engine, like whatever hight your jackstands are able/you like. 4. lift at the back differential to the same hight. to get the car down do it in reverse. Dont do it in a slope or something. sorry for bad english, its rusted a lot since school :D P.s. I like that you show people, but i need to tell you its the wrong order for doing so

[@holdencaulfied7492]

Umm... you didn't show a close up of where the jack point are... that was the entire point of looking up this video.

[@johnhanson9245]

If you can't find the jacking points on a BMW you may not be able to find the gas filler door either.

[@holdencaulfied7492]

@@johnhanson9245 Maybe... but it's still a shitty video.

[@ericastier1646]

Horrible description; i still cannot figure out exactly where the f is the rear jack point is it in front or behind the rear diff box, others says behind ??? You talk way too much, bringing confusion keep it simple !

[@HackyCraft]

2 min 10 seconds into the video. The rear jack point is the differential housing, just ahead of the cooling fins. Use a wood block if the rubber pad on your jack is not very thick. NEVER WORK ON YOUR CAR LIFTED ON A JACK. Not sure what else to say. Feel free to ask any other questions you have.

[@HackyCraft]

The lift points I mentioned are from the BMW service manual. You can find it online if you look a little bit.

[@ericastier1646]

@@HackyCraft ok you're a bit late i already finished the job two days ago but thanks. I actually have lifted my car at least 6 times over the years but mostly the front, except when i bled the brakes i did the rear. This time was just brake pads. i forgot where was the rear jack point. Every new BMW purchase should come with a full TIS repair manual. I am tired of having to fish all the information on the internet. For a $70k new factory car the repair manual (not the maintenance booklet) should be given to the new owner on a CD. If I ever buy a new car again i will put that as mandatory in my order. Avoid stealership and their exorbitant rates and risky service for your car.

[@aliasmakaveli6314]

Kind of useless video. U did not show where the jack stand makes contact with the jack points

[@HackyCraft]

Big plastic blocks. Kinda obvious. The trick is jacking the car up from the right points.