Sail Life - Cleaning a Refleks diesel stove & figuring out new seacocks - DIY sailboat refit

[@yottaforce]

You should sand the Reflex stove. Just to be on the safe side.

[@SailLife]

Haha :D

[@rickfrazier1148]

Hahahahhahahahahhahahaaahhaha!!!

[@johnVidBozo]

Wait just one minute! Sailing's king of OCD is going to put off servicing the heater regulator till IT NEEDS IT! There has been a serious disruption in the FORCE. :) Have fun sailing!!!

[@TigRdk]

We want sailing videos also :D at least when the rare event happens :D

[@LearningtheLines]

Better to have a video of Mads talking for 10-20 minutes than no video at all that weekend. Don't apologize! Looking forward to the projects!

[@danielgorz7594]

Learning the Lines I second that!

[@aserta]

Puppy!!! Each time that fluff is in the video, things are already 100% better (no smiley faces, but i am smiling).

[@KC9QVF]

Mads is going sailing? What does that have to do with boats?

[@svdoinitright7519]

Quit apologizing Mads! You could post a video of you reading a book and most of us would still be enthralled.

[@normanboyes4983]

Hi Madz - we all wait for your Sunday videos and stop apologising!! On the seacock front - I note that someone has already linked to a supplier of Blakes that appear a bit cheaper than you quoted. I have always liked the idea of reducing the number of thru hulls to as close to zero as possible and the only way of doing that without going stone age is to use ' sea chests' - I appreciate that is a tough call in an existing boat but it merits some examination as to its possibility in the Warrior. However having said that - this guy disagrees and he makes some very good points - www.kastenmarine.com/caution_note.htm. Keep up the good work - Obelix is looking spiffy too - have not seen the old girl in a while. :-)

[@SailLife]

Hi Norman :) I've been tempted by the idea of a sea chest but I think that's about as far as it'll go ;) Obelix desperately needs a bit of TLC (polish). I'll need to find time to do that before Ava comes aboard - I don't want her to run away screaming ;)

[@normanboyes4983]

Understood - how about larger sea cocks as a matter of course and tee off two supplies from each? ;-)

[@Garryck-1]

From what I can see, a sea chest would involve adding more complexity, more (and difficult) maintenance, and more risk in high latitudes (due to the danger of it freezing up), and all for no increase in safety. Just not worth it, IMO.

[@bradbaker3518]

You are a joy to follow! And your enthusiasm shows in your videos.

[@SailLife]

Thank you so much! :)

[@henrymorgan3982]

There must be a bronze (expensive but you will sleep well) low profile version somewhere. Good luck buddy.

[@homeonthewaves]

You could consider a larger Blake’s style skin fitting and seacock, which you then divide by way of a manifold into your raw water feed requirements. Advantages would be that the skin fitting and seacock would be stronger by virtue of being larger diameter and thicker bronze alloy, and you only have one rather than four holes in your hull. Disadvantage is that it would require a bit more pipe work under the cabin sole, but it pays dividends in reducing risk of water ingress. On a different note, you can create an ‘in water’ skin fitting seal by having a prepared, sized wooden bung that you can use in conjunction with butyl tape to seal your skin fitting should you need to do some maintenance on your seacock without the luxury of being able to haul out. Just dive in with a snorkel and wire brush, clean the skin fitting of any growth that might compromise your seal with the wire brush, insert said wooden bung (having wrapped it with some fresh butyl tape first), and firmly seat it. The water pressure acting on the outside of it will keep it in place whilst you work on the seacock. Then don’t forget to remove it when you are ready to go again.

[@manfredschmalbach9023]

We used the smaller version rubber household loo pumps for that. Selfsealing and very easy to set and remove. You just have to make sure there is no line under Your hull to accidentally break those loose as long as there is no seacock or valve during servicing.

[@homeonthewaves]

Dudenat or Yes exactly, but it being a more commercial engine room term, I chose not use it in case it caused more confusion that the accuracy warranted.

[@greggronemeier1256]

Sailing sounds like a great choice.

[@WaterFaucet24]

How about a video of your sailing? Nice picture of the lovebugs on the bulkhead in Obelix.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

My uncle did a distribution part for water inlets from acid proof stainless. Basically it replaces multiple inlets with one and can distribute seawater for many applications. So could you do one bigger inlet somewhere and just distribute the seawater from there? Little more plumbing but less truhulls to fail.

[@RogerPrintz]

Got to ask, why so many thru hulls below the waterline? My favorite boat for cruising had none, no engine, no head. Just a freshwater shower and bilge pump and a 5gal bucket. Could you make due with fewer and plum the water with PVC to where you need it, fewer points of failure, you wake up in the middle of an ocean and find yourself standing in water, you got to go check 6 places?

[@NelsonWCRS]

Go with the original seacock. I would not modify one I couldn't shut off at the sauce of entry.

[@BaronWeber1]

Thank you for another great video. I would go with the old style metal seacocks, plastic ones (my experience) will break if someone accidentally steps on them.

[@Lawiah0]

As for the seacock below the steps -- this is a poor location and an accident waiting to happen -- give consideration to relocating seacock.

[@SailLife]

Why do you think it's a poor location?

[@aserta]

Any, really. It's important to keep in mind the many considerations regarding them for all of them. Too high, too low, is the boat structure ok with a hole there (rarely, but i've seen damage incurred in time) etc.

[@Lawiah0]

In an emergency or even during standard maintenance, that's an open hole right below the companionway steps, which can cause twisted angles, broken leg; or worst flooding the boat if the seacock is damaged stepping on it. call it Risk Management Best regards

[@kristianp9629]

Spring time is grinding time - yeah.... Cant you have one throughhull just right after the steps in the engine room?

[@philsmith9807]

Hi Mads, As GRP seacocks, you also have Randex, widely used on French metal sailboats for many years with success. They have a good reputation and come also in angled version. That's what I have onboard and am happy with it. www.randex.fr/plastic_valves/ball_valves.html#p1 There aren't many providers for these, but you can find them at Accastillage diffusion (www.accastillage-diffusion.co.uk/connections-valves-and-accessories-in-reinforced-plastic-e07460-1.html ). By the way, have you considered plugging all these holes in your hull and having only 1 inlet seacock + 1 manifold, and all your outlet thru-hulls above water line? which seems quite smart to me.

[@WakeforMe]

I checked: the hive mind says "bzzzzZZZzzzzzz bzz bzzZZZzzzzzz" Oh wait, wrong hive. nvm

[@RealLuckless]

Glassing in some tabs to bolt a safety bracket over the valves might be the easiest option to add a little more piece of mind against someone stepping on them in the rare event the panel is open. I would also do to more things from a user experience and safety standpoint if you don't relocate those through hulls: 1. Paint the compartment a high vis colour. 2. Modify the cover panel with a warning sign on the bottom and a mounting system such that any time the panel is removed, it gets placed up in the way of anyone coming down the stairs with a clear and obvious warning of the hazard. Safety bolts/latches to keep the panel closed if they don't already have some might be a good idea too. It isn't like you'll have this open all that often, so it becomes a risk management issue.

[@niloccoady]

Seacocks,...I would suggest you go with bronze skin fittings, Electrically bond all the skin fittings,,, that way you won't get any corrosion.

[@scotthedderich778]

BIODIESEL!! Awesome to hear you’re burning biodiesel in your heater. What blend are you using!!

[@bruno19531]

Mads Check out Nigel Calder’s Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual. He has a section under Tanks, Plumbing, etc. that talks about gravity drain holding tank with deck pump out. I use this system on our boat and it works very well. All we do is open seacock and then ball valve located on bottom of holding tank and dump to sea. We also have a Commoderizer (www.commoderizer.com) in our sea water intake to head that sanitizes the head bowl and keeps head freshen. No odor. We have NO standing effluent in plumbing lines what so ever. Great system. As a fulltime cruiser that makes our own water we considered fresh water rinse, but making water every three or four days would increase water usage to where we would need to make water every other day with used fresh water to flush head. The way it stands on RO water systems we need to make water or do a fresh water rinse at least every forth or fifth day to keep bacteria down in the RO membrane. Check it out, very simple system. Remember the KISS system - keep it simple stupid.

[@Talhern]

Why not raise the deck and make it the last step in the companionway step? Just a thought.

[@verbal213]

I think that might interfere with the access to the engine compartment.

[@Talhern]

It could be a removable step just like the rest of the cabin sole access 'plates'. I could see it being an issue with having to step up to get out of the port and starboard aft cabins but it was a thought.

[@garysouza2277]

Something to trip over in a seaway.

[@CheersWarren]

Well I would go with the Blake type seacock they lasted 30 years ...... Or a very different idea. Reshape the hull with a complex fiberglass job so sea cock can lie horizontally, a bit like fitting a sea small chest, you could bump it out too it will have no effect as the turbulence back that far will not mind a bump.....but a Blake seacock is easier. Cheers Warren

[@drwindsurf]

No need to apologize Mads this was an awesome video the way it is and I love that you went sailing. If you are looking for filler content until you have a shed, you could do some tool/product review or some sailing video...maybe some singlehanded tricks. Thanks for another great video :)

[@morganandreason]

With regard to the through-hulls and load-bearing collars, couldn't you just make your own collar out of fibreglass? Just put in the through-hull in the most convenient orientation, and then build up layers of fibreglass around it to reinforce it structurally. Just my 2c. :)

[@svallegro9851]

Hey there. I'm new to your channel but thank you for all your videos. I'm about to buy a boat and move aboard with my dog, Oreo. I have a question, when you sail, are you alone? And if so, what are your challenges you face. Almost all sailing channels are couples. I'm worried about being at sea alone but I figure I can do it. Thanks again!

[@C_R_O_M________]

Hi Mads, I was wondering whether you have time to elaborate/recapitulate with more details upon your decision to sell your house and live aboard Obelix. Was it because of excessive taxation of property? Perhaps other financial reasons? Or was it just a wimp of the moment that turned out to be a great experience? Thanks for your clips and time.

[@cafriedrichsen]

With regard to seacocks: use 90 degrees elbow before the valve, but as you are on Is it a bit fragile construction, you have to make support under the valve, some fiberglass reinforced plywood, and a pair of powerful buckles.

[@mgarand]

Have you investigated Marelon? Maybe they would fit better. I would absolutely not install a seacock without that support collar or a flanged seacock. Another great video!

[@planesplanes2863]

Wow, I've read a lot of comments. So many good and kind people in this community. Fills my heart with joy. Blessings!

[@stumpertsailing3831]

Hi Is there any chance you can raise the floor by building a removable step at the base of the companion way steps? To accommodate the height of the seacocks. I am not sure who much height you need or the height of the adjacent doors etc. It may very well prove physically impracticable.Its just an idea. Thanks for the exceptionally well done videos. Stewart

[@Duh6666666]

Hi Mads, it's all good so please stop saying you are sorry and let it flow. We are just as anxious as you are to see the progress you'll achieve this summer but we are more patient ;-) Looking forward to the next video (already?), have a great week and take care.

[@MrGSegrest]

Mads,. Consider a plywood or pvc board tabbed in to provide verticle support. A simple cradel would do, but a couple of holes below the valve will allow one to install a tie down strap of some sort to eliminate wear from movement. One inboard of thruhull or two with another at elbow-thruhull joint just as long as it does not interfere with the operation of valve. Looks like horizontal the ball valve can not be closed unless cabin sole is removed unless valve handle is on top. I personally would switch to composting head. But on my boat I still have wet head and plan to install new seacock soon although there is no pump out on lake where I am, I can stut and remove tank for land based cleanout. And if and when I do start large boat project, I plan to switch to composting head. A quick swim with a rubber compression plug inserted in outside of thruhull will allow service without a large amount of bildge cleanup. Maybe a bit exhilarating in the Norwegian waters.

[@janthygesen9041]

I subscribed because of the reflex oven bit. I worked in marine service and have sailed with the ovens in the 80ties 90ties . They have improved a lot when you think of cleaning.. I had my share of cleaning out these. But they are so simple and reliant.

[@1958johndeere620]

I always use metal ( bronze ) thru hulls BELOW the water line. Plastic can break and should be above water line only.

[@chasemixon6327]

Not sure if this is possible, but if you could build up some fiberglass to help support the sea-cock that would eliminate the issue of it breaking if someone stepped on it... or just modify the floor so you can use it in normal mode without the 90 degree bend before the valve. Maybe move it just a little more aft in the boat next to the wall and have the floor jet up a few inches there Like a fake step. Hope that makes sense, I wish I could draw on here... :)

[@appick01]

I like metal seacocks better than plastic as when metal corrodes at least you can see it. When plastic oxidizes and weakens it usually doesn't give you any visual warning that it's compromised. Overall the life span of both seems to be pretty close as well. But I'm old school and like tapered plug seacocks for the servicability ect

[@melee401]

Flushing with fresh water is all well and fine if you have a water maker or a 1000 gallon water tank. However even with those amenities it is best to have a Y valve so that in the event you come into a situation where fresh water is at a premium for whatever reason you still have the option to use raw water.

[@SailLife]

I won't have a Y valve but I'll have the option of just using the aft head :)

[@melee401]

If I were in that position I would use fresh water in both and have a Y valve to each as well. The sea water can get to stinking in too many ports. In some like a few in that nation to the north of the US flushing with sea water in their ports can be the same as flushing with sewage. Not that the chemical spews in the US ports are any better mind you. The water makers do not purify many of those chemicals either, especially the petro chemicals. I would never eve run a water maker in a US or Canadian port,,,,ANY of their ports. But the same can be said of too many ports around the globe really.

[@willhunt8331]

Use the best materials at hand. A metal short cock is only a problem down the road. Just use the angle cock, don’t OCD it unless you use a different location.

[@Mxxxxxxxx610]

The Blakes seacock will outlast the plastic (composite) ones. Go with bronze, you will be close to 80 years old when you need to replace them...

[@br5498]

Great video of nothing .. haha...kinda like Steinfeld show..keep them coming we enjoy them.

[@duhduh1225]

For the seacock/valve under the companionway step you could put a little block or wedge under the valve. That way if someone steps on it there shouldn't be a whole lot of resultant flexing of the elbow.

[@ninjan2738]

A bit off topic, but where did you get this version of refleks stove? I couldn't find the 66 model with glas window anywhere and would love to buy one too :)

[@billb2176]

Hey, its never a bad day when you have to leave the DIY to 'go sailing'!!!! Re the seacock at the base of the stairs issue, easy to eliminate the 'break-off' risk by gluing a small block between the hull and the underside of the valve body so it can't be bent more than a mil or so. (put in a bit of a curve to resist other potential movements - think aserta is already onto it), agree re the bend for potential blockage but think about where you can open the hose and lift above the water line and then push through a bit of wire to clear if its too cold to go for a swim. Cheers, BB

[@hillybillyvacshack1927]

If the yard where you're working on the boat would allow it, maybe building an simple ark rib shed would work for a short while. If you are unfamiliar with this kind of construction I included a link. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fInWpmaQnL9jnKM

[@velascobruce]

I think I speak for a lot of us when I say that we would be interested in watching you go sailing every now and then when you have weekends were you can't do much work on Athena. Regardless I for one still enjoy these videos even when you don't make as much noticeable progress. By the way, any updates on the plan for the rudder?

[@snakeplisken4278]

How about trying a composting toilet from C-Head? Then no need for the thru-hull. I just ordered one.

[@brianparker9924]

You know ive been watching all these videos and i have never caught your name. What your doing is pretty inspiring. Im trying to find a way to hey my grand dads boat to my home. He won't mind. He's dead.

[@UweBehrendt]

What is the status on your rudder? and also I like my original bronz fitting on my ericson rather than those bulky plastic valves, just my 2 cent thought thanks

[@TAMBestBuild]

Go with the Blake seacocks. They will last forever given your propensity to maintain everything so well.

[@shinybaldy]

Hi Mads - a suggestion for you re the existing thruhulls. I suspect you'll find you may need to glass the existing holes over and redrill them - given the overall questionable decisions in the original manufacturing of the boat, you probably will find the core/glass structure wasn't properly epoxied and there might be osmosis. 2nd suggestion re seacock - TruDesign has a 120 degree bend kit for the seacock. From residential/commercial plumbing codes - 90 degrees bend for discharge is a big NO NO. Similar concerns will be true for your toilet discharge.

[@AndysEastCoastAdventures]

I used a trudesign with collar on only seawater inlet near the engine. Like you my grey water pumps overboard above ther water line but I have no grey water tank as boats much smaller than yours. The galley & heads sink both feed a single self priming diagphram pump that pumps them clear while holding down a button in the galley. Works ok & the less below water thru hulls the better. My loo is a chemical one.

[@elnes89]

No need for apologizing and I would go for metal seacocks, after all they will last for many years before you need to worry about corrosion. Feel free to take us sailing if there's little work to be done on Athena. :)

[@gjvenhuis]

Try using a pipe cleaner instead of a q-tip. Bit longer and easier to handle. Keep on uploading video's, love them.

[@jimmiller5476]

Correction. These are the seacocks I used on my boat. You can order them through Defender. www.forespar.com/OEM-Valves.shtml Forespar Series 93

[@robertcole9391]

If you can. Always stay OEM... Yeah I know they adapted and didn't fix anything, but adapted to sell the boat..but.. it seems to work. Bad part. when you contact the manufacturer, it can take a month or two for the parts.. It sucks.. but even with dealing with modern boats, my job today, even hatch gaskets can take two months to receive. But at least they have the blueprints were we do not.

[@rs1329]

Why not just glass in a support block under the shut off valve to take the weight and eliminate any flex in the event someone accidentally steps on the valve?

[@TheMajorRuin]

Agreed I was going to post the same thing but after scrolling through the comments I see you posted this so I'm going to give this a +1

[@crickettgreen2670]

R S my thoughts exactly.

[@peterengel7885]

Same here, a support for the valve

[@Rottingboards]

Yes, someone said it. You could make the support large so it doesn't move around and removable when you want to service the valve.

[@fowledup7226]

How about modifying the bottom step of the companion way stairs into a separate "dog house" that would accomodate the thru hulls in any configuration.

[@sheldonpenn1815]

Go with the bronze metal ones but they all have to be wired together with a bonding system that connects to a zinc anode to stop electrolysis. This system should include all metal in the boat, Rudder post, chane plates, propeller shaft (use a copper brush), engine, metal tanks....... Use a wide flat copper strap run the length of the bilge then wire the fitting to the copper strapping. You will see a small tapped hole in most flanges on through hull fittings, it is to help you wire connect to the copper strapping. Copper strapping is used because the electron flow is on the surface of the strapping. Wire will corde over time causing resistance to the surface flow of electrons and stopping the system from working. I am guessing when the boat was built they did not instal a bonding system hence the electrolytes in your through hull fittings.

[@rickfrazier1148]

Maybe incorporate some of your sailing into a video at some point. I would enjoy seeing some sailing around your neck of the woods

[@Rottingboards]

You could of taken us sailing? We sometimes need a break from DIY videos.....

[@RobFomenko]

Stay with the trudesigns, use the collar, and find a better space for them. Maybe use 1 larger one and branch off that after the strainer. Maybe the engine room will do ?

[@davidrobine5350]

I think when you are done with Athena, you will be qualified to be rated a master boatwright! Or something like that.

[@MrCrabbing]

ASAP Supplies in the uk have a good range of threaded stainless and bronze through hulls that can be cut down short and with a stainless ball valve it might be possible to get them short enough

[@snsfabricating]

You could make a video of you actually sailing. After all, that is the intended end result of all this work, isn't it?

[@sailingluana3037]

If you have room 2 45s will spread the area of the turn causing less clogging issues.

[@lukedogwalker]

We are the Hive Mind. Reflex is futile. Your seacocks will adapt to service us.

[@archstanton9206]

Anyone who has ever restored or rebuilt any sort of car or boat as you are doing knows the doldrums that go with waiting for parts weather tools time and space. It is just part of the process. It is real. No reason to feel bad you are doing what you always do, sharing the facts with us.

[@MorseB]

How about one much larger seacock instead of 3 in that compartment? You could also glass in a small sea chest to mount the seacock/s sideways.

[@jimbospics]

If your going sailing you better bring us along... Just sayin!! We will all be anticipating a sailing video

[@lkm5462]

I like the plastic sea cock on side. Make a saddle for it and slip and glue in underneath while it’s parallel to the hull. Makes for a secure device and cleaner area in the compartment. Easy fix

[@cajone7591]

Hey Mads, why not start working on your rudder, don't think you need a shed for that, althoug it may provide a bit more climate control

[@BorisFett]

Maybe find someone who can 3d print a support piece that would do a similar job that collar does.

[@AndyUK-Corrival]

There are always times when things get frustrating but I am sure it will all work out just fine. As for seacocks, difficult one. If using the Trudedesigns then the space under the steps is not the best place given you cannot use the collar. I would certainly be worried about the vulnerability. If they must go there then use the Blakes, they have a great reputation for a reason and as long as you service them then they will be fine and they don't have a 90deg bend so blockages are less likely. Whatever you decide it will be right as you usually find the right solution that works for you. Andy UK

[@patrickradcliffe3837]

Stick with you have and install some cribbing under the valve to take the load off of the elbow.

[@NelsonWCRS]

Go with the original seacock. I would not modify one I couldn't shut off at the sauce of entry.

[@daviddickmeyer5231]

Mads, not sure how long delivery to you would take but you might check out www.jamestowndistributors.com for Marelon seacocks,. They have a good video explaining them also. Good luck. I’m enjoying the videos!

[@JimKJeffries]

You could make a bracket to support the far side of the valve, would remove a lot of load on the 90. You are wonderful, keep up the hard work.

[@MidnightAmratha]

Noted the are two through hulls by the companion way, use the forward one and let the sea cock run along the axis instead of across that should ensure there won't be any risk of breaking it if the f

[@tylerharris3907]

Hey Mads look into a sea chest, maybe you could get down to 1 or 2 thruhull fittings total

[@MrMaddog2009]

i love the way your not afraid to change the floor plan ...so many micky rig there boat to fit the currant floor plan

[@yngvereik]

About the inlet valve for engine cooling.. use a trudesign valve with indicator, and conect it to the ignition key, so that you can not start the engine with valve closed.

[@martinspedding3510]

a support block under the seacock will increase strenth from downwards load

[@pickleme101]

Use the large collar under the valve like a cradle for support so the 90 wont break,

[@anglocaddy]

Thank you for the Reflex stove cleaning video !

[@bdphourde]

Try DIY sailing! I'd watch a video on that!

[@duanecreativemachine]

Your doing what you can do. No need to apologize. Hope you enjoyed your sailing.

[@dreannaclayton5972]

Post a sailing video. Without music. That would be cool.

[@andreasweber5638]

Suggestions for ‘better’ videos: A- more content with your doggy B- seeing you actually go sailing on board of Obelix C- nothing wrong with your videos . ignore A+B carry on with your awesome videos as usual. Love it! Thanks for taking me aboard every week. It’s pretty awesome to see your progress. Even if there’s only little work to do .

[@michaelcaton9358]

too many holes for my liking.... surely not so many required?

[@steveemery2880]

Groco bronze seacocks. It doesn't corrode and I've got some that are 40 years old.

[@wagzz3000]

We would also like sail videos! If you have down time in the build and go sailing, film it!

[@wysiwyg2006]

we have no boat shed at our yacht club. i sealed the windows over the weekend and dust from someone sanding their old antifoul got onto it.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

I came for the sanding but stayed for the through hulls.

[@samualsseahawk2663]

How do you deal with the soot from the refleks on the deck! I have the same stove an the soot on deck is a nightmare!

[@manfredschmalbach9023]

Hello Mads, why not put the "emergency" engine seacock inside the engine room away from stepping hazards? You're in there anyway when an emergency with cooling occurs, and so You would have one less to worry. I personally would avoid the 90 deg bend between the big blue outside and the ballvalve under any circumstances. But I'd overthink the idea with those plastic ones under the steps anyway. They might be OK when securely out of the way in a pantry- or head-compartment, but with shit hitting the fan aboard, You might find Yourself in full blown rollercoaster situations when You need to access those throughhulls under the steps. I'd definitely put in something as trip'n'step-save as in any way possible: Absolutely no plastics in that case. Yes, bronze ones have a life-span, but their risk of failing (totally all of a sudden) before that lifespan ends is very very small, and those do not break as simple as plastic ones when stepped on accidentally, safetycollar or not. 250.- each is well worth it, just think about the boat's worth You might risk with one (or two) shorn-off plastic ones after a rough step with 4 g. No shed = bummer. Best wishes and regards m

[@manfredschmalbach9023]

... oh, and absolutely no complaints or even propositions about any Mads-video I saw the last years ...