Sail Life - dodger rebuild part 2, structural members & TungstenMate - DIY boat refit

[@alaris1994]

I can answer your glass question - I own a glass company here in Toronto called The Glass Studio. Laminated and tempered glass are both classified as ‘safety’ glazing because their unique characteristics reduce the risk of injury should the glass break. However, each type offers very different advantages and drawbacks. For your application, tempered glass is the preferred choice for two reasons; • it can better withstand compressive forces applied when being sandwiched between framing layers or clamp-style fittings. • it is significantly stronger than laminated when subjected to blunt impact An equivalent thickness of laminated glass is only as strong as each individual layer. Your existing tempered glass appears to be approximately 6mm thick so an equivalent laminate would be constructed with 2 separate layers of 3mm glass with an 0.30 clear interlayer. As you’ll appreciate, an impact is much more likely to break a 3mm glass layer than a solid tempered 6mm. Of course, the downside of tempered is that when it does break, it shatters completely and falls away. Under the same circumstances, laminated glass will crack but remain in the frame (if properly installed). Hope this helps. We enjoy your videos!

[@joer8854]

Just for personal curiosity is there a benefit/cost in relation to the flexing of the boat and dodger? I would think the tempered glass would take more force than the laminated would.

[@alaris1994]

@@joer8854 That’s correct - flexing of the framing surround is very likely so tempered would be preferred for that reason as well. If you have a tempered shower door held by two clamp-style hinges you can actually see 10mm or 12mm tempered glass flex if you bump into it. Laminated annealed glass is particularly vulnerable to cracking if there are pressure points or bending stresses. Car windshields can crack as vehicles age because rust build-up applies pressure to the laminated edges. I didn’t get into the option of tempered laminates because I think solid 6mm tempered will be more than adequate for the dodger.

[@joer8854]

@@alaris1994 Thanks for the time and info. It's greatly appreciated.

[@SailLife]

Thanks! That's a lot of information!

[@SailingCorina]

@Thomas Smylie After owning a shower glass business in Tucson Arizona for 20, I couldn't have answered better. This was an exact correct answer. I use to play jokes on new employees and tell them to cover the old Tempered glass with a blanket, take a hammer and break it so we could box it for the dumpster (keeps from getting little pieces all over the parking lot). They couldn't understand why they could not break the glass with a hammer. I let them pound away for awhile and laughed. Then I showed them the glasses weak spot, a little tap on the edge and boom.

[@alanhoyt9453]

Thank you baby Jesus for the music instead of the sander and vacuum noise! I love your channel.

[@ethanturner5567]

Another TIG professional here with 2 decades experience. 1) Wear an N95 mask when grinding tungstens... in fact, wear a particulate filter when doing any sanding, grinding, etc.. Make dust or smoke, wear mask (do some reading on thorium). 2) I've tried every tungsten grinder gadget made and I always wind up back on my dedicated bench grinder or 2" belt sander. The bench grinder is faster, lasts a very long time, & grinding wheels are cheaper than diamond wheels. 3) I always have my employees grind 20 tungstens to have at the ready for the day (once all 20 are used, go grind them all at the same time again). This saves massive amounts of time walking back and forth to the grinding bench and keeps them 'in the zone' while welding. 4) Never double grind your tungstens--meaning, don't grind tips on both ends of a single electrode. Why? Because one will inadvertently contaminate a tungsten to the point where if you flip it around and put it in the collet holder it will slide in fine, but when it's time to change it, it will be very difficult or impossible to pull out and then require one to disassemble the cup/collet holder/collet to get going again--more wasted time. 5) You will find that as your skill level increases, grind angle on tungstens becomes less important to you-there is a sweet range, but it's a big one. (Rule of thumb: short taper/steeper angle = more penetration, long taper = larger puddle because of larger surface area of grind) 6) When welding stainless you should not need to clean it with a wire brush and if you do use a wire brush make sure it's stainless. When you complete a proper weld in stainless you should see only minor oxidation in the form of silver, yellow/gold, or shades of blue and purple--darker the color more the contamination. Whatever the color, the oxidation should be bright and shiny. If it isn't bright and shiny that means A) you were moving too fast, B) your torch technique allowed too much oxygen contamination, C) you used too much heat, D) your electrode was contaminated 7) Since you are working on a boat you should passivate your welds to help prevent rust--yes, even with 316SS. We use a passivation paste called Antox 71E Plus. It works great! 8) When welding stainless you should have an open door for better ventilation. When welding stainless, it out-gasses Hexavalent Chromium. HC is bad stuff and can cause central nervous system damage. I could go on for another page on tips n tricks, but this is your channel! You are doing great things, Mads. I have 'mad' respect for you and your abilities. Thanks for the great content!

[@Mancubsa]

Ethen... you sound very knowledgeable mate! Have you done your own channel on welding? If not, hop too it because I would like to learn too. Sounds like there is a lot of content to cover. Cheers!

[@AndyUK-Corrival]

Ethan Turner Lets hope Mads reads these comments, I have made many and not seen many answers...

[@Thomas..Anderson]

This post should be made into a web site.

[@ethanturner5567]

@@Mancubsa, I have thought about it and even recorded some video of various Jeep projects. The problem is I have too many projects and not enough time--and a company to run.

[@Mancubsa]

@@ethanturner5567 , I did notice you had a few on your channel and appreciate your position, you just seemed very knowledgeable and precise that it was a shame not share hence the ask, I have a feeling I may need those skills sooner myself haha.

[@snsfabricating]

I may not be a welding expert but I have been doing it for 40 years. That being said, you are making good looking welds.

[@GentlRebel]

I am SO happy to see Jökull in your videos again! We didn't see him for a long time and I really missed him!

[@morganandreason]

Great to see Jøkull back in your videos. Reinforcing the structural members with additional fiberglass is one of those ideas that seem obvious once you've heard it.

[@vspyro372]

How can anyone thumbs down these videos? you are the BOB VILA of the boat world !

[@SailLife]

Thanks! :D

[@jimholthaus9009]

Really liked that sanding edit when you were sanding the dodger

[@nickmalone3599]

Love the spaceship look of the dodger, very 1980’s sci-fi.

[@cookfamily6620]

I love the fact your upset about the holes not being equal size, but your not bothered by your port window being intersected by a wall in the cabin. Keep up the great work...I’m still holding out hoping your going to address it. Live long and prosper.

[@abbbee8918]

Surely the port window issue will be addressed, it looks hideous.

[@codylapoint]

yep bugs the shit out of me every time i see it on screen.

[@vettepicking]

Ditto i neeed toooo fix that port light .

[@ecw0647]

I'm assuming English is not your native language. Your is the possessive; you're is the contraction for "you are."

[@vettepicking]

dork

[@ylemoine1]

Mads, consider building a covering over the lines before they enter the dodger. It serves two purposes. 1) slows the water down so when it reaches the dodger it doesn’t have enough velocity to enter the holes and simply drains out the sides (think of a dorade box). And 2) they cover the lines on the cabin top so removes a tripping and slipping hazard from stepping on the lines. It’s more glass work, but it will be a nice finish to the cabin top, avoid any water slipping in from rough seas and makes sail changes and reefing on deck much safer. Most new production boats have this arrangement when leading lines to the cockpit. You’ll need to adapt for your configuration, but should be able to work something out. Whatever you do it will be perfect. Good luck. The refit is looking “spiffy”! 😉

[@joshbascom8618]

Thanks for saving us from the sounds of sanding! I liked the cut straight to music.

[@SailLife]

Thanks Josh :)

[@RenegadeADV]

Mads, I think the dodger is gonna look awesome, has thee whole "Millennium Falcon" look going on. One thought I have is 3M makes an adhesive molding tape for the auto industry, it is really just butyl tape with an adhesive applied to it, it is great stuff! I use it all over on my boat. For the inner window frame I would suggest putting that tape between the frame and dodger and then bolting the frame in without the glass, this will stick the inner frame in place, then you can put what ever sealant you are using around the windows and simply drop them into place and they will stay. Should make it super easy to assemble that way, and you will really be able to get a nice tape line on the sealant on the glass.

[@klif_n]

The welding is coming along quite well! I look forward to the toe rail construction. Cheers.

[@roberthodson7761]

Can't wait to see what the plan will be for the structural problems.

[@HouseMadeUS]

Pure Gold Mads as always. Nice work.

[@mikegardner2376]

On the glass question Thomas answered the strength part. Beware the corners on the pieces just a tap and you have a puzzle that won't go back together,cushion the corners. European automotive laminated glass is very soft and scratches or sand pits easily. Laminated glass is susceptible to moisture turning the plastic milky. Enjoy watching your adventure.

[@glassman51]

That is sure a lot of work for the windshield of a Star Wars fighter, or the worlds ugliest dodger. Hang in there mads, your patience and perseverance never cease to amaze me! Cheers

[@Talhern]

Looking good sir. Nice to ukel having play Time and making friends with cement boat dog (cbd) looked like they were having a good time.

[@caravanmaint]

I have been to a few advanced composite classes in the aerospace industry and we have always been taught small to large. The stresses aircraft endure are considerably more tho. I suppose West Systems has done their diligence to know large to small is plenty satisfactory for sailboat/marine repair.

[@johnnybarbar7435]

Glad to see you are getting an expert opinion on the stringers. Check out the "Bums on a Boat" episode from a couple days ago that covered a retired naval architect consulting with them about their cracked rib-stringer joints near the keel. He had full knowledge of exactly what was going on with the hull and added several suggestions on things the couple wasn't even considering. He saved them a huge amount of time and money.

[@TheDecguy]

I’m glad to see that you are considering leaving the existing hull grid in place and laminating over. The existing grid becomes York form and the new laminate becomes the structural element.

[@seamusreilly6522]

Looking forward to seeing some vacuum infusion. Good to see all of your tips.

[@sailingcivilised]

Finally got home and got my t-shirt. Thanks A&M

[@nielshoekman4852]

Hi Mads, you might want to wait with mounting your windows on the dodger. Without the windows you can run the lines over (or through) the holes of the windows so you can measure and mark the position of the cut outs.

[@WreckDiver99]

7:53, it really helps to say "Tap, Tappity Tap" when doing that Mads!

[@razzorbladz]

Id go with that flexible PVC clear and snap buttons so when your sailing on a hot day you can remove the windows and get more wind

[@odc43054]

Glad Mr. Snuggles has a friend, and a place to play.

[@marshallgrill5857]

Hey Mads, this might be too late, but you could glass the holes in the dodger and port some bushings through for the lines to run.

[@normanboyes4983]

Hey Mads - great progress and having the workshop is a game changer for the project.👍

[@fabianratschiller6848]

That face at 12:39 is just fantastic🤣🤣

[@carbidegrd1]

Potassium Nitrate is used to dissolve tree stumps. I wonder if you could drill holes on the top of the structural members and pour some in. The wet wood should break down, allowing you to remove it and replace it with expandable foam.

[@LeonardBottleman]

Tempered glass is used where there might be an impact (it shatters into small, relatively not sharp pieces rather than the dagger like shards of plate). Given the dodger is pretty much at foot level outside the cockpit, and that the wind or waves may throw the ends of tack (or whatever) at it, the choice to use tempered glass seems like a good one.

[@PrivateUsername]

Adding some 3M security film over the outside & inside (which will bond it to the frames) to make it really break-proof might be a good idea. Then, if it shatters it will at least not fall out or have shards & still be perfectly serviceable.

[@acmeopinionfactory8018]

Leonard Bottleman Mads was questioning the use of tempered vs. laminated glass, not plate.

[@asdfdfggfd]

It is also quite a bit stronger than plate glass.

[@jeremyrainman]

@@PrivateUsername Ya, the only problem with that is, if it does shatter and the film holds it together it will render forward visibility to near zero through the dodger. It's a tough choice between ending up with teeny tiny bits of glass that you may never completely rid your boat of in the long term, or a dodger you can't see through until you deal with it.

[@jlha1]

have seen another way to secure windows from being beaten up by waves, thick plexiglas called storm plates mounted outside with screws, it is on a motor boat but waves are waves kzbin.info/www/bejne/mn6Xf3-rg9KNhbM

[@Twizter68]

For future reference; anytime you open a container of filler powder, you need to be wearing some form of respiratory protection. That stuff will get into the air just from opening the container, and a lot of them are basically glass bubbles...which you do NOT want in your lungs.

[@crankypoodle309]

By patching large to small there's less long strand fiber damage when fairing. Keep up the great repair, Fair winds and god speed

[@pezpengy9308]

hooray! new sail life video AND boatworks today all at the same time!!!! heaven!

[@asbjrnhuseb9618]

Laminated glass doesn’t age well in humid environments. Water tends to delaminate it over time.

[@caravanmaint]

Agreed, aircraft pressurized windshields are laminated glass and will delaminate over time. But they do under go a tremendous amount of stress...more so than standard laminated glass.

[@aserta]

Not even the least of its issues. Old laminate gets destroyed by UV something fierce, in a marine environment, you can protect the glass from water intrusion, but not UV.

[@caravanmaint]

I suppose it depends on the quality as well. Aircraft windshields are outside on the ramp the majority of its lifes with very little UV damage. Lee Aerospace and PPG are the manufacturers we see in the US. But yet again marine vs aerospace different needs, requirements, and quality. If i were to buy I'd go with tempered too.

[@johnnybarbar7435]

All automobile windshields are laminated tempered glass and unless the outer glass is cracked, they hold up just fine for decades in areas that have tremendous rainfall year round. Of course that is fresh water so there is that variable but seaside does provide some salt spray exposure as in Washington state or California. Laminated glass stays intact when it shatters from small impacts. If a rogue wave hits it and causes failure, I would guess that the entire panel would still blow out whether it's laminate or single layer. A naval architect should be the only opinion Madds listens too as I'm sure this issue has been studied and standardized for safety.

[@GoofieNewfie69]

hehehe Some people have been reading too much internet bullshit. Almost every automotive windscreen since the 1930's is laminated glass. Now use your theories to those pieces of glass. hehehe

[@knightxd4]

Ok... why do I get a little happy every time you say, "Glorious Sanding?"

[@SailLife]

You'll enjoy next weekends video too then ;)

[@mini696]

I assume the small to large crowd does so because it tabs into existing fiberglass on each piece rather than just the first one.

[@1sheinz]

Laminated glass is actually pretty weak. It is two layers of regular 3 mm glas with a plastic sheet between. It will crack at the least bit of bending and eventually the plastic will discolor from the edges. Laminated glass is also twice the price of tempered, and tempered is 10 times stronger than same thickness of laminated glass. cheers

[@xXJasonardoXx]

Got my glorious sanding fix! Now I can face Monday.

[@brianswanland5466]

Great tunes! Hoping the Joker can be fixed with some additional fiberglass!

[@3HappyMorrisseys]

Start with the big patch first with Epoxy, small patch first with Polyester resin.

[@mikeyadrick5154]

for your window measurements someone might suggest that you fasten the fiberglass dodger back on the boat as it will change shape when installed---Mikey

[@Rottingboards]

Your video quality is fantastic!

[@SailLife]

Thanks so much!

[@paulnewkirk3855]

I'm also a structural engineer and have enjoyed watching you from the beginning. I agree with the repair method your starting. Just let the old wet, soft plywood be the form core, just like a balsa or foam core. The strength is all in the fiberglass. Can you tell me what 90 degree buffer you used ? We need to buff our hull. Any chance of using the same machine with a sending head to sand the hull before new bottom paint? Looking forward to the day that you and Ava get back in the water.

[@SailLife]

Thanks, Paul :) It was from Bosch's Professional (blue) series. I'm sorry but I don't remember the model number :) Sure you can get a velcro backing pad for that type of polisher. That'll be a dusty job! :)

[@wayneschmidt9620]

i'm struggling with large to small concept, it would seem that if the large has an adhesion failure all the small would fall off with it.

[@davidbrown2806]

If it was up to me, I would clean up the glass frame, and send it out to be professional painted ( e-coat perhaps ) to make the dodger ie white. Seems to me that is a lot easier and cheaper than building a new stainless steel frame. Cheers

[@anttiroppola4414]

Yes. My windscreen was perfect. But my hull was not symmetrical. I measured out my CAD onto cardboard at 1:1 for a cheap dry fit.

[@VincentLemage]

What about adding tunnels for the lines with lateral evacuations and a baffle to prevent water getting in the cockpit?

[@asdfdfggfd]

You are now moving like a professional tradesman.

[@mxf2812]

Tempered glass is pretty strong stuff and fine unless you are expecting high speed projectiles to hit it like in a car windscreen. For protection from waves washing over and the odd halyard snap shackle hitting it I would think it's sufficient 👍

[@lantienpeng]

Changing from extruded frames for your glass to sandwich construction of SS and fiberglass is a risk. The glass needs to be mechanically decoupled from the twist and bend of the fiberglass dodger. Just my humble opinion :). Love your channel! Best wishes from NY!

[@garyallsebrook3493]

I’m afraid of my stand grinder too! It’s absolutely ferocious!

[@j.brianbobiak12]

A suggestion for future reference: A local Architect or Engineer will very likely have a large format printer that can easily print large precision drawing. Its very inexpensive for them and most (in my neck of the woods at least) will help you for free. I suggest you create a 1:1 .pdf file to take to them. I can do it too but since I'm in the USA it might not be practical unless you're willing to wait on DHL to deliver internationally. Cheers!

[@maxboonkittypoison]

Yep, and we are one step closer :)

[@almath9987]

Looking forward to this👍 Was thinking to many variables with the lines running back to the hard spray dodger agree fill them in and revisit

[@suesun7072]

Nice video as always! It may be a stupid question or I got it completely wrong, but why not opening up the structural members one by one at the top? Then grinding or just pulling the former plywood out and fill the new formed voice with laminated epoxy? This way this old rotten wood gets out of the boat for ever instead off burying it even deeper? And on the structural side, it will be x times stronger while having the same diameter and look!

[@robinbennett5994]

The plywood was (supposed to be) structural and the glass was (supposed to be) to waterproof it. Attempting to clean the rotten wood out of the deep slots would be a very difficult job. Cutting out and replacing the structure would be easier! Filling the void with epoxy and glass wouldn't be very strong as it would be hard to get the glass strands to run the width of the boat. Personally I think that adding more glass over the outside is a perfectly good solution, but it might not be spiffy enough for Mads ;-)

[@codylapoint]

I was thinking the exact same thing, except after the wood was gone id fill the void with iron and high strength epoxy grout.

[@hungry4solidtrax]

Toughened glass is more impact resistant and flexible than laminated glass. Also, when toughened glass breaks it goes into thousands of little splinters and not lethal shards.

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Mads, Thank you for the information on your solution for "The Joker". Is Ava taking a welding class in L.A.? It would be fun to see a welding contest between you two when you start on the toe rails. Take care and thank you for the great videos both short and long.

[@billbruce5528]

Thanks for the update...are you planning on modifying the rudder design? Perhaps make it a little larger for more rudder control to assist in tight maneuvering at marinas?

[@derrickjohnston7181]

nice weld looking forward my pop up wood rudders need TLC and my Daggers I made need thinned down.

[@TexSavage]

The structural member fix seems like a good solution to me. I hope to works out for you.

[@robertrantane6867]

Access port for lines sounds like an opportunity for testing different options. For some reason I see lines passing through bristles, like on a paint brush.

[@_instabil]

The luckiest "See youuuuu" so far :)

[@2CabrasLocas]

When tempered glass is broken it doesn't shatter into large dangerous shards. It breaks into little chunks (why ALL U.S. automotive glass is required to be tempered by Federal law). Was really cute seeing the dogs running around together. :D

[@peterhendry2154]

Drill some holes in the top of each member and some at the bottom, let it dry or blow hot air in till it does, then inject wood hardener till it comes out the bottom and you turn the rotten wood into resin with wood filler???

[@ronpippin4893]

I think he should check the thickness in the tops of the structure in addition to the sample he pulled in the side. I'm thinking if the tops are thicker (and the hull is thick underneath) then the beam structure may be stronger than the side sample would suggest.

[@jeremyrainman]

I must have missed an episode about the toe rail. Now you're practicing welding? Is the intent to fabricate your own toe rail from stock? To be honest, that sounds like a far cheaper option with better chance of a good fit. I think my only concerns would be making sure it's as structurally sound as I want a toe rail to be. But the satisfaction of having designed your own rail, with your own scuppers and chocks, in the places you want them (not the factory)... that would feel satisfying.

[@BaronWeber1]

Great video as always, thank you.

[@tizwicky]

You are very modest in regards to your TIG welding skills. I've been welding for years and TIG welding on aluminium and stainless steel is difficult and you did a very credible job. I really like the attachment on the Dremel tool to grind the Tungsten rods I've only ever used a grinding wheel to do this but knowing what I know about how important having a good point on the rod is I think that it's very worthwhile tool. Please tell us why you have choose not to polish the existing aluminum dodger frames ?

[@DuffyF56]

Unlike regular glass, which shatters into sharp shards that can potentially cause injuries, tempered glass breaks into smaller pieces that interlock with neighboring pieces and therefore don't fall readily.

[@damienduggan9060]

What a cool little tool love it :)

[@americanix7951]

Great job can wait to see that boat in the water

[@tomblough3257]

One for the large to small camp here. Laying the largest patch first keeps the longest fibers intact after subsequent sanding. If you lay the largest last, you run the risk of sanding through the patch that spans the farthest.

[@arthur4818]

To prevent water from coming in where your lines come thru you may want to experiment with a brush door sweep or creat something like that, it’s a aluminum strip that contains thousands of brush bristles that are flexible that your line can pass thru but prevent water from coming in, look up (brush door sweeps) on google for an example

[@pmnfernando]

i dont know much about boatbuilding, but ive read some things over the years (lets hope i still remember them right). the plywood on your stringers is wet/rotting. thus is losing its mechanical/structutural properties. Water always finds a way, meaning that it will eventually contaminate the rest of it. that plywood is covered in CSM, to keep costs down by the manufacturer. Ive seen people say that the structural integrity of that composite (plywood/csm/resin) derives mostly from the CSM. i honestly dont think this is right. CSM is there as to waterproof (with a shelf life obviously...) and as a filler to the resin which in turn beds the plywood in situ, thus enabling the external forces to be dissipated (also) thru the plywood, and the latter reacting by helping the hull not to flex. this is how i see it in my mind. im curious to know which solution you are going to be present with by the engineer and you may be in for a VERY BIG project. imho laminating more fiberglass (plain weaved cloths) atop the existing one will not prevent furter rotting of adjacent plywood. to me, one solution could be to remove all plywood sections that are wet, scarph new sections in, then remove all csm covering the dry plywood and then laminate everything to the inside of the hull using biaxial (or even triaxial) cloths. its a big task, but one would never worry again. yes im aware that the "boat gutting process" is potentially quite extensive, and costly both in money and time, specially because at some point you do wanna start cruising right?! with such a project one starts making other questions, like: is this THE boat?, am i going to sell it in the future?, will i get any money back from all the work ive done? etc etc. aniway, its always great to see your videos, keep the ocd up!

[@Greggspies]

Sale Life is top spify viewing great content loving the journey

[@karstenboyenielsen4576]

Fine work. Fint arbejde.

[@jbsanger696]

You need a product called Sea Cast... It will replace the damaged wood and bond with your fiberglass... 5-8 gallons and it is sold in US....

[@jpkalishek4586]

Tempered is fine as all the other glass in a car is just tempered, only the windshield is laminated (though some rear glass is from time to time), If you want a "laminate" just tint the panes with film. Given the choice to follow Boeing or Airbus procedures, I'd go with Boeing.

[@svbarryduckworth628]

We have tempered glass in our hard dodger windowa for our Hallberg-Rassy Rasmus 35. We had to replace one of the windows in the middle because at some point before we bought the boat it must have broken and was replaced by plexiglass which was all fogged We went with tempered again because the design of the opening window required holes for the hinges and the latch hardware. Getting laminated safety glass made with holes in it was way outside of our budget. The rest of the dodger was already tempered, so why not replace the new window to match? It wasn't very expensive, like $150 US and took a couple of weeks to have made.

[@GoofieNewfie69]

Chances are, they used regular tempered glass over laminated to cut costs. Laminated glass prior to the 2000's was much more expensive, up to 5 times the cost of tempered.

[@TheJttv]

Tempered is not sharp when it shatters. It is what the side windows of cars are made of.

[@mysurlytrucker7510]

Good video as always

[@twiper]

I don't know if you have seen the channel "Hilma Sailing" they just have lost their rudder at open sea, it just snapped off. The reason was galvanic corrosion, so check your rudder strain or make a new. Maybe also have a look at Jefa in Copenhagen, they make premium rudders.

[@normanboyes4983]

Tino G - Sailing Apparently caused by stray current electrolysis originating from a wiring defect in the compass binnacle which passed to the rudder post.

[@twiper]

Ok. In the last video they mentioned there was a new rudder on it's way from Sweden so it will hopefully be fixed soon. - But besides that I'm looking forward to Mads's rudder project, it will certainly be interesting.

[@normanboyes4983]

Tino G - Sailing I am waiting and watching with interest.👍😀 Edit - there is a new update on their Facebook page - 8 Feb new rudder is in.

[@jackpatteeuw9244]

SO Mads, what type of music do you listen to while sanding ? Classical, old time rock and roll, country or "local" ? Out of the box thinking ... The structural member that is the worst. Cut the top open, scrape out all of the "rotten" wood, and fill most of the void with some kind of foam and then fill the rest with epoxy. Run that by your engineer.

[@MrEroshan]

In my experience working with glass, never sandwich it, only use a channel or it will shatter at some point. Either while you are installing it or when you are pounding waves.

[@bigbeartr57]

That looks like some rusty hardener. I've had the same problem and its my biggest complaint with West System (second biggest is the price). I had one rust through which made quite the mess and through off my inventory ratio.

[@grantmyers7593]

use some of that roll of rubber you have to cover those holes in the dodger.

[@UweBehrendt]

Nice what about the test cap thanks

[@GBRmedic]

Glass can break, Tempered glass breaks into little rounded pieces (like your car door windows). It's safe and pretty strong... That's my guess at least... but I dont design ships

[@lyfandeth]

I suspect tempered (case hardened) glass is also more scratch resistant because of the surface hardening.

[@jackodonohue2717]

Mads I just have this to say as far as the fiberglassing goes WWAMD

[@jasonbernard]

Have you done a weight & balance consideration to see if the weight of the soaked wood & additional fiberglass for the reinforced structure would impede your comforts (i.e becoming too heavy to haul a generator, watermarked, dive compressor)?

[@georgelambertson300]

Regarding the size issue larger verses small patches applied first is similar to which came first The Chicken or The Egg either way Chicken is what's for Dinner...Eh..Many Txs..

[@phcoh]

Just wondering, the rounded corners will be in the new frame and just cover the current points in the glass, as you can't cut / grind tempered glass.

[@odonkers]

Great vid & progress well done !

[@henrymorgan3982]

If you want the glass crystal clear use 0000 steel wool dry. (000 and down will scratch the glass) Just rub it on the stains and it will clear anything less than a scratch.

[@melee401]

Tempered glass will all fall out when ruptured. There are some serious safety issues when you leave shattered glass suspended on laminate.

[@geraldhenrickson7472]

I believe tempered glass lasts better in a marine environment. The laminated glass can eventually degrade into a really psychedelic, air-intruded bubbly and groovy pattern.