Sail Life - Shaker style drawer fronts, sink cover & fuel polisher - DIY sailboat project

[@dozyaustin]

Oh Boy, good luck getting back from California. I suspect we may not see a video for a number of weeks. Stay safe.

[@alanwhittinghill2732]

Didn’t trump lock down all borders? No one in or out?

[@WaterFaucet24]

I just saw a story with pictures of a crowded airport as tons of Americans are returning home from Europe. I imagine European countries are letting their citizens return as well?

[@albatros1752]

oh sh..itake stay safe

[@dozyaustin]

@@WaterFaucet24 Denmark will let him back in - if there are flights to take him. With the plummeting demand, flights are getting cancelled. By the time he is returnig - who knows what the situation will be. He will also likely be asked to be in quarantine upon return (though US is not on that list presently, I suspect it will be soon)

[@dozyaustin]

@@alanwhittinghill2732 Just guessing, but it seems Mads got there before the closure. However, Denmark like USA will allow citizens to return home - if there are flights to take them.

[@nat2relic]

Suggestion on routing your face plates, is to label all the fronts and make sure you place them face down on the router table. That will help with your alignment not being off once you assemble them. Good luck and love the videos.

[@45DegreesN]

Oh great, stuck in LA, confined with no boat work, with Ava for the foreseeable future. We're gonna have a mini-Mads in 9 months hahaha

[@guy.h]

Stuck in LA with Ava not sure when you are able to leave ..... I'm sure you can think of worse places to get stuck for a while :) Enjoy your time together & stay safe

[@elp9716]

On your cabinet doors, remember to leave the inner panels just a little loose (i.e., they should just barely "float"). That way they won't buckle/warp, AND they won't pop your spiffy stiles and rails apart, when they expand and contract with humidity and temperature changes.

[@mountainmanfab]

there are rubber cord and ball type inserts available that will help keep em loose enough yet stop the noise that loose panels can cause...do a search for space balls raised cabinet door spacers

[@elp9716]

The more traditional way around the rattling problem is to slightly bevel the edges of the inner panels. That way, as the panels expand, they tend to "wedge" into the slots a bit getting tighter, but not exerting all the force of the expansion in the direction that would pop apart the rails and stiles.

[@gpdewitt]

Design Idea - bevel the edges of the infill slats of your doors maybe 1/16th to 1/8th (2-4 MM?) for an even better retro look. Love the wood types and colors. And yes, oil finish, not film forming, is the best IMO. The old school saying for oiling schedule is once and hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and then yearly. There is a lot of antique furniture and panneling around that was finished this way, perfectly preserved.

[@billfromgermany]

Hi Mads. Just a comment on the use of frame and panel in furniture. The use of a floating panel is to compensate for wood movement in cabinet doors. It is considered unnecessary in the case of drawer fronts as they are too small to require it. You will see that Shaker furniture, including their enormous sets of built-ins, reflects this.

[@honeybadgerisme]

Oh! So glad you two are together. If there is anything people worry about, it's loved ones. Be safe, be well. We'll be waiting.

[@mbranniff875]

Its anybodies guess if Mads is gonna be able to return to Denmark in a normal manner. Good luck Mads.

[@ELCADAROSA]

I should remember not to consume liquids while your videos are playing. At "Cheap-O-Matic 2000" I almost spewed coffee over my keyboard! Your videos are very informative and a pleasure to watch! When the time comes, I may just use your diesel polisher idea for the twin 250 gallon tanks on my boat. Keep up the fine work, Mads. Athena is really coming along nicely! And may you and Ava enjoy the unexpected and extended togetherness, and stay healthy!

[@_bodgie]

I agree with cement boat guy that the pump should be before the filter. It will make the priming of the pump easier. Hopefully, you manage to avoid coronavirus, stay safe.

[@JimKJeffries]

I agree, less moments of air before a pump is always a win. Hopefully you will be taking apart the filter and separator more often than the pump too. Have a great week.

[@mikehoward70]

Parker - the manufacturer of Racor filters - recommend that the pump is installed after the filter. Installing it before the filter risks emulsifying fuel and water reducing the efficiency of the system. If the fuel tank is above the filter then gravity will prime your system. If, as likely, it is not then a hand/squeeze bulb as used on some outboards is your answer but it needs to be on an isolated loop.

[@JimKJeffries]

@@mikehoward70 , thanks Mike, that's a great point

[@_bodgie]

@@mikehoward70 Interesting, I never considered this point. It seems like a valid reason to install the pump this way to me.

[@MegaPoxie]

I have a filter setup for an oil heater with a similar layout to yours but I added a small stainless ball valve to the bottom of the collection bowl to make removing contaminants a breeze! Good luck getting back.

[@FawkesUniverse]

i just reached this video by binge watching over 20 videos by you, i quite enjoy it

[@tedfaber]

I have a similar router table. The table meets my home shop requirements. One safety tip when cutting small pieces of wood on a table saw please use a push stick and not your fingers.

[@hommie789]

Mads, Mr Cementboat guy is correct, pumps are designed to push your fluid not "suck it" so the shorter to the tank you mount it the better, you can push the fluid a good distance into your filter and back. Also cool router table but I only use the table saw as it is faster and more accurate but that is just me, enjoy LA.

[@05Cat28]

Hi Mads Regarding the router bits, if you are going to do all your doors this way you may want to invest in a 1/2 , more powerful router. Those are big bits for the shaft you’ve resized. They will wobble and stress the router and the shaft. Your cut won’t be as good and they may scream like a banshee. It will be a much nicer experience and product.

[@WmCRobison]

Oh, so you're the reason it's been cold and rainy in LA this week. Stay healthy!

[@mylespowers3965]

Madds, Parker (the maker of your fuel filter) recommends installing the pump after the filter. This is because the pump will mix/emulsify the fuel and water making separation less efficient. I like concrete boat guy but remember he owns a concrete boat...

[@anthonygillesse7242]

Myles Powers That makes perfect sense to me. I circulate my fuel through Mr Funnel once every three months . Some smart guy put a drain cock at the bottom of my fuel tank.

[@alveysollenberger7791]

Router bits... Run a scrap piece of wood thru the bit that cuts the end grain on the vertical pieces. Run it behind the good piece to prevent tear out on the back side of the good piece. When you get the bits adjusted correctly cut 2 pieces of scrap ( 1 each bit ) to use as setup blocks. Makes a spiffier cut.

[@seanlathbury5410]

You spoke briefly about a fuel transfer manifold. I have such a manifold on my boat, it is wonderful! With three separate tanks on your boat I would encourage such an extravagance.

[@athanasiosskourtis4630]

Looking forward to your next video. It might take a bit more than March 29th but worth waiting. Thanks mate

[@robtowle1580]

Hang in man sounds like you are making the right call to head back to Denmark I’m sure LA is a tough place theses days. All the best on the long trip home

[@mikewebb4730]

Mads, the fuel pump you borrowed from the Cement Boat Guy is ideal for a fuel polisher: it will self-prime, it can run dry without harm and it has its own little strainer on the end. Also it is cheap enough that you can keep a spare on board and it is almost silent, so you can leave it running while you snooze or play cards. Gear pumps DO shift lots of fuel and they are reversible - good as transfer pumps, but they are really noisy.

[@BaronWeber1]

I don't think you'll get back for a few weeks, enjoy Ava and California. Great video, thank you.

[@ekavoian]

Madds Love the videos. Maybe a question and answer period with Ava next week. Sad to hear there will not be more glorious sanding next week. Have an IN N OUT with Ava.

[@wilber504]

an authentic Sail Life video - there was glorious sanding.

[@liebherr11602]

The gear pump is a good idea. Do have a look at the motor to find out its duty cycle.

[@stephenforrow2333]

My understanding was that the racor units should be used in the vacuum side. ie, with the pump after the filter. The pump will emulsify the oil water mix, making separation less efficient. Racor recommends using pump after the filter

[@bartonrobinson4266]

Someone else mentioned in here, that pump may have an issue pumping upwards out of a tank, believe that could be the reason for going puffff....not stout enough to do that. Hope you hear back from those folks and they do you right. Stay safe in Cali and Ava's visiting is a good way to unwind, mentally. Keep the faith guys !!

[@psloper]

Great episode. You might consider taking shallow cuts with your stile and rail router bits. Maybe 2 rough passes, with a final shallow finish cut. Less force, less chatter, more pleasant experience. Feather boards are super helpful. Also an insert for your router table plate to create less clearance between the bit and the table will make it smoother (more accurate) and much safer (less chance of bit grabbing the part). Love your tv show! GL in travels, stay clear of the bug.

[@Seawizz203]

This was a great episode for those of us with ADD. As alway, nice job Mads, despite the thirty or so nay sayers. You can’t please everyone.

[@omvaren]

Take care, we kill the time watching your old video's :)

[@johnchristiansen9261]

Hi Mads First of all thank you for a very good KZbin channel. I have been watching your channel for years, and you are doing an awesome job on you boat and KZbin channel, which is very inspiring and a lot of good ideas and explanations of how to do work on a boat. Regarding fuel pump - I have been using a Walbro FRC-6 pump for years as a feed pump to my old Volvo Penta engine in my HR 38, mounted after the filter, and I have never had any problems with that pump. The Walbro pump was mounted instead of the mechanical feed pump which gave up, and it was not possible to buy a new Volvo pump for money. Before buying the Walbro pump I was scanning the marked for a reliable pump to use in a boat, also looking at gear pumps, problems with gear pumps is that pressure can easy raise to 30-40 Psi for those which was suitable for the job if flow is cut off, which is the case when starting pump at engine start. I was not sure that filters and fittings cut resist that kind of pressure compared to 4-6 Psi which is the normal feed pressure to a diesel engine. I know you are intending to use the pump I another setup. Comments is only for sharing my experience with Walbro pumps.

[@masterv2118]

good luck with your travels, I watched this well I sort my own travel issues.

[@nick.caffrey]

Isolated with Ava. (And of course, you did not plan this.) OK. We'll be here when you get back Mads. Just keep safe, both of you!

[@brucekratky7993]

Feather boards a great help too.

[@52canuck]

thought i'd let you know, the holes in your router plate are actually for starter pins which they sometimes include. you should have rotated the router slightly and drilled all new mounting holes.Now you know. Have as much fun as you can and stay safe.

[@bobadam7021]

At the time I'm writing this, 30 people disliked this video. I'll hazard a guess to say: 5 of them disliked the fact that it was over. 10 of them are mad that sail life has 0 sailing. 2 of them work for the company that makes the router table. 4 of them think you don't even need a diesel engine, just sail the damn boat. 6 of them are upset that Mads is working in a shop with a lathe in a DIY video. He should be upside down in a bilge with a file. 2 have vision problems and miss clicked. 1 is Martin AKA "Cement Boat Guy" who is upset that you didn't sweep up the shop after you were done. 29 Are absolutely wrong, though you should have swept up.

[@jeffwood8109]

between the time you wrote that and now, one more is disappointed that there is not more "Oh Glorious Sanding™"...

[@WreckDiver99]

38 people, and all are upset of no video next week LOL...

Lol

[@michaelsamuel4159]

Friggin hilarious.

[@georgiogorge]

Down-voting a video in KZbin isn't done because you dislike the video, it's done to tell KZbin not to recommend more videos like it. You might do that because you actually dislike the video, but most of my down-votes are done on videos that are taking over my feed after watching on or two from that producer.

[@iancurrey6739]

Truly an excellent channel. Sure you've thought of it but when I built my router table I put a Scissor jack under the router to provide easy adjustment of the height.

[@terrybullock3140]

The cabinet/drawer fronts look really good (end of the video). Good luck with your travel and health 👍

[@donpetrey8007]

Fuel pump on the suction side of the racor. I read somewhere that is how they were designed. Also all the years I worked on larger commercial ships we always had racors on the suction side of the engine/equipment usually right before it went to the engine.

[@villeniemi9965]

Main reason is that when the filter chokes up the pump doesn't run dry and break like it would if it was after the filter.

[@nigelbowdery6781]

Agreed, my understanding is the filter always goes between the tank and pump as the action of the pump makes it more difficult for the filter to separate out the water.

[@donpetrey8007]

nigel bowdery yes I heard that before also something to do with the swirl effect as pumping it cause it to emulsify more not not separate properly.

[@sailingluana3037]

Hey Mads, ya may want to find some small rubber balls. Install one in the router collette. You don't want to bottom out the router bit. And a tiny rubber balls will stop that. Bottoming a bit out can cause harmonics, for some reason, and loosen the bit or worse crack the head off. Something I was told a long time ago by a pro cabinet maker.

[@mikehoward70]

It can also be very hard to remove a bit that has been used at full depth insertion - learned that the hard way. Better quality bits have a maximum insertion mark on the shank. With cheaper bits, insert all the way then pull them back slightly. For your safety, you want as much of the shank in the collet as you can get.

[@brucekratky7993]

My experience with router tables suggests that the high speed vibrations can cause the screws holding the router to the table base plate to loosen. The vibrations can also cause the levelers to rotate unexpectedly. This can cause wobble and or misalignment. I always double check my set up after a few boards initially. Once I’ve achieved reasonable stability I check the less frequently but a quick check can save heartache and some fine and expensive wood.

[@Jdefries1]

I like the level of thought you put into everything, keep up the great work!

[@Rpmsailor]

Have fun in California, stay healthy and I look forward to seeing your next video sometime in April.

[@dalegraham4058]

M your skills are being matched by your sense of aesthetics. It is a joy watching and learning through you channel as I put my efforts into upgrading my own beautiful old boat. Enjoy California.

[@G0KAD]

Thanks for my Sunday night fix, stay safe and we'll be waiting your return when the time is right.

[@kevman0111]

I love how you plan out the little details like having the same filter. That'll keep lofe simple in the future.

[@andreboudreau6474]

Stay safe Mads, hunker down and let this thing pass.

[@garryorme2017]

Love your vids Mads! Just a small bit of advise Styles run vertically and Rails run horizontally and the Styles flow though and the Rails butt into the Styles. Also the grain in the inset panels runs vertically, unless the inset is too small. Of course these are just guide lines you can make them the way you want😉. Again love your vids.

[@bluejeans725]

Thank God you did some sanding.

[@svbarryduckworth628]

I used a Carter brand fuel pump designed for trucks. They have a really good reputation here in the US, and it wasn't very expensive. About $50 here in the US. It is smaller physically than the first pump you had that broke yet moves 60GPH. Downside is it is a bit noisy. The literature from Carter specifically mentions that putting the pump before the filter voids the warranty. The pump must be protected by the filter.

[@benlindner5285]

I am guessing that was his problem, pushing the fuel instead of sucking it through the filter.

[@svbarryduckworth628]

He said it was new fuel from a pump and diesel pumps usually have a filter in them, but i see he made a DIY demonstration plastic bottle tank with holes drilled in for the hoses. There could have been a speck of plastic from the drilling/cutting of the holes, or a bit of rubber from the hose introduced, or other sources of contamination. Fuel pumps and injectors can easily be damaged by any debris. That's why fuel filters exist in the first place. This is one of the reasons Nigel Calder says never to pre fill a spin on fuel filter from the top. I hope Mads gets a replacement or refund. But technically running a pump like that without a filter is not recommended. I wonder what cementboatguy's reasoning is here?

[@tartansailor]

I appreciate your videos, I learn from them, keep on the good work, Richard

[@robda7195]

Not a sail life vid without some o glorious sanding enjoy America you'll be there a while see you next year when things start to get back to normal

[@rcpmac]

An even cheaper (and better?) approach to a router table is to adapt your table saw wing to a router mounting plate. All the rest is already built-in more or less and the result is heavier and more stable.

[@AnvilDragon]

Inlet to your pump should have a screen type filter to catch lumps to protect the pump, then pump, and then filter. Often the screen is on the pickup in the tank but your tank is harder to reach so a screen filter inline is ok. The screen and pump can be mounted near the tank and the filter/water seperator can be mounted where it's easy to reach to drain (and check visually). A drain valve would be a nice touch with a threaded cap on a short leash. A small metal catch can can be secured nearby for draining. Since this is a system, sketch the schematic, document your parts including manufacturer, part number, specs, and sizes and add that to the ships library. Any future replacement can be looked up and ordered without tools and labor. Perhaps even delivered to your next port.

[@ELCADAROSA]

Sounds like you've learned through your own experience or others.

[@nigelbowdery6781]

I have installed a fuel polisher in exactly the same way, a couple of observations on the installation. Even with the AV mounts the Facet fuel pump can be noisy, I only use when motoring but if you are going to use a timer when on board the installation of the pump and bulkhead position will need some thought. The filter should always go between the tank and pump as the action of the pump can emulsify the water making it more difficult for the filter to separate out. I have a 10 micron filter on the engine and the primary is 30 microns, so I elected to go with a 10 micron in the fuel polisher on the basis that I would run regularly and inspect/change as required, but this has made my primary filter almost redundant, perhaps OTT. Final point is that I ensured the dip pipe for the polisher was 10/15mm below the one for the engine take off, so in theory any water or bug will be ‘seen’ and removed by the polisher before the engine take off. One point I never fully bottomed out was that the filter is designed to ‘spin’ the water out in the separator, this would imply a minimum flow rate to be effective, but only a maximum is specified. Finally with a couple of T - Valves you can if you wish create a secondary or fully redundant fuel feed to the engine should the primary circuit ever block or fail. Anyway great video as always and I hope you get back from your trip ok with all the restrictions, safe travels.

[@namechamps]

I know you have referenced Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" before and consider it a good reference . On page 460 he says the filter should be BEFORE the pump. The pump will break up larger water droplets into ultra tiny water droplets which can make it through the filter without being caught. In this case it goes back into the tank instead of into the engine so it isn't as bad but I still can't see a good reason for reversing the order.

[@garrym09]

If you set up a manifold that would be great, as you can constantly clean the fuel in your tanks on a regular basis. The military has a code that requires their fuel storage be polished daily. So they where constantly moving fuel through filters. Albeit on a much much more massive scale than yours.

[@Plyschbjornen]

Yup, the Cementboatguy is correct about the mounting of the fuel pump. If you mount it after the filter you would get a partial vacuum on the suction side when the filter starts clogging up, and that leads to cavitation.

[@bryoncraig2749]

That fuel pump is good at “pulling” the fuel. Not “pushing the fuel. That one should be installed after the filter.

[@jwiswall]

Agreed. Putting it after the filter also means it gets clean fuel. You definitely have fewer problems with clogs/pump death if you place it after.

[@tom18181]

Enjoy your time with your lady

[@4x4conqueror]

Hi Mad's the fuel pump you used (that worked) is a facet pump and even though you do see them laying on there side they should be mounted upright. As a diesel engineer I have seen them mounted like you had it many a time but they tend to jam up... these pumps was also used on the old range rover v8's but mounted upright and never seam to jam when fitted that way. they also have a pre-filter in the bottom so having them upright you would find it easier to service. just a heads up if you find yourself going with that pump for anything ;)

[@markusfellner187]

Some weeks ago I polished the diesel of my sailing yacht in Croatia with a similiar setup. The order beginning from the tank was prefilter, filter with water separator, pump and then a plastic bottle. The last year the engine was used only 1,5 hours. The tank was always full and no additives in it. Lacking of an inspection opening I had to put the sucking hose through the tank inlet. After turning the hose around I was shocked to see both filters and the bottle settled with black sediments like sand and some black slimy substance. I guess if the pump was first, it would break with sediments running through. Interestingly no water in the separator after five times pumping from 60 l tank to 20 l jerrycan.

[@Lavilala]

Your dedication is truly admirable :) Enjoy LA

[@clayfarnet970]

Glad to hear you guys are together for the cv scare. Maybe you can sand a few boats in a nearby marina? Have fun guys. 🤔🤔👍👍✌️✌️

[@RVLifeNOW]

Hmmm, how will you know when the polishing filter is very dirty, or even plugged? Normally the engine would die from fuel starvation, or a suction gauge would be an indicator.

[@benlindner5285]

Patrick you make an interesting point, if the filter has a suction gauge then the pump has to be sucking the fuel through the filter not pushing it as the cement boat guy wanted Mads to do. So perhaps that was the problem with the pump? Typically it is most efficient to place a pump as close to a source as possible and to push the material as opposed to sucking it from a distance, perhaps fuel pumps are different?

[@RVLifeNOW]

@@benlindner5285 I would put a link here but then this response would go into a need for approval folder in KZbin for Mads to okay or delete. A simple Google search for a Racor installation clearly shows the pump goes between the engine and filter, so it sucks fuel into the filter rather than pushing it in. The best filtering system is a dual Racor filter with a vacuum gauge. Not having a vacuum gauge then means the dying engine is the idiot indicator that the filter us plugged. I do believe Mads would do well by rethinking his Racor installation. We have had a dual Racor filter system on our boat, with a suction gauge, fed to the engine, not like Mads is doing, for over 12 years and I have never seen a better system, or I would install it.

[@mikehoward70]

First, Mads mentioned the optional pressure gauge for the Racor filter that he may add later. Second, this is a fuel polishing filter, not the engine supply filter. It won't be the end of the world if this clogs up and goes un-noticed for a while. I'm sure he will add regular inspection of the filter to his maintenance schedule.

[@RVLifeNOW]

@@mikehoward70 The figure can vary depending on the type of engine but generally, about 80% of diesel fuel going to an engine is used for cooling and lubricating the injectors then gets returned to the tank. So while the engine is running, the diesel fuel is always being circulated through the Racor filter acting as a "scrubber". There is really no need to set up the pre filter system independent from the running of the engine.

[@mikehoward70]

@@RVLifeNOW I'd agree that unused diesel returned to the tank is effectively polished. Given Mads' massive tanks I have no idea how long it would take to polish 100% (acknowledging that polishing all the fuel doesn't necessarily remove all the contaminants)

[@honorharrington4546]

On your router, the duck ledge occured because the board was short and the end dipped onto the large hole in the router plate. You should be able to buy or make inserts that size the opening down close to the bit and stop that problem. Some routers are designed for use in a router table and have a height adjustment from the bottom... much easier to set the height with these.

[@bluejeans725]

Should be able to match router heights by using a shim on the shank of one and then be able to just drop them in the router, or trim the shank lengths, whatever works.

[@AdamPearce]

Stay well. Hope to see you March 29th.

[@drwindsurf]

Thank you for another great video Mads! Safe travels 😊👍

[@michaeltillman1147]

Good video as usual. Good luck with your travel plans. This virus going around is pretty bad in California. Safe travels friend. 😎

[@stotas2]

Stay safe and have fun while you are away.

[@runristaren2]

Having it as a transfer pump between tanks is great. Then you can use one tank as intake tank If you are to pump fuel at various shady pumpstations around the globe.. Then one tank is always clean and any issue with accumulating debree in the tank is minimized.. 🙌 Travel safe in these mexican beer times👍

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Really nifty idea for the diesel filter system. You'll be back on 29 March? Haaaahaha! enjoy your time in L.A. with Ava. You might consider shopping for routers and additional router bits while there. No sense not taking advantage of the thousands of stores in the area now that they will bel really empty. No waiting in line for a checkout. Take care, be safe and see you when you get back.

[@lhendrix278]

Very good presentation. Good instructor!

[@caseydixon8714]

I find if i fold and knead the 407 epoxy mix on a board for a minute or two before applying it that it'll reduce your pinhole issue tenfold

[@loclann]

Mads, love the humour early on in the video. I was going to hopefully add to it by suggesting you could use the manual that came with the routing table to reinforce the structural integrity of those legs, man they looked so feeble. I know it’s been said before but please, please use those safety ‘dohickie’ paddles or sticks/guides to push wood through the table saw. It’s a selfish request as I wish to see you remain serious injury free. See you soon. Loclann

[@Destinoffshorefishing]

I make a rail and style and use them to align my router bits but ya still get a little lip from time to time but Easy to sand flush

[@benediktfrenzel1942]

Be safe!

[@brianparker9924]

When I was in the navy we had a somewhat similar purifying system. Obviously supersized. Okay maybe not the same. Every 24 hours we would flood the bowl and shoot it with sea water to blow any contamination out of the purifyer..so now that I think about it, I dont know why I mentioned it.

[@carlthor91]

I notice that the replacement pump is a Facet pump, my first choice of pump. They have one with a clear bottom with 70 micron screen. Cheers all

[@waynemcphail7825]

Really liked this video. As below, please stay safe!

[@bobrose7900]

Great video. Nice setup with the Raycor. Stay safe in California.

[@jackpatteeuw9244]

Mads - Google "feather board" You will need about 4 so keep your stock tight to the horizontal and vertical surfaces of the router table. Prevents "wonkiness !" Regarding the Walbro fuel pump. Made in USA. Buy a Bosch. Made in Germany

[@wesstrater4094]

Also a push block with a handle on the top and a flat rubber bottom would help keep pressure down and in on the wood.

[@jackpatteeuw9244]

@@wesstrater4094 Save those fingers for Ava !

[@southjerseysound7340]

Walbro pumps are usually pretty good and I've never had a problem with probably close to a 100 or so that I've installed over the years. The only issue I have had was with a batch of counterfeit pumps from Amazon.

[@scottjones9670]

Before you start mass producing doors and drawer fronts - get ahold of a second router and make two zero clearance plates to fit your table. Then you can set the bits up once, and swap back and forth making sure you never have to mess with the alignment of the bits after you get everything dialed in.

[@mikehoward70]

Or, mill all of the first piece first, then all of the second piece. One setup per bit and only one router required. Mill 6' or 8' lengths and cut to size afterwards. Allow, say, 10% extra test pieces, snafus, etc

[@timmitchell8081]

Just out of curiosity. Could you use your fuel polisher as a transfer pump from the main storage to the ready use?? It would get an extra filter as your transferring it too.

[@Greggspies]

Could always ask La Vagabond for a lift back seems their taxi service is popular

[@jackytruelove5777]

“Mads producing”. Excellent.

[@MidnightAmratha]

Work smarter, not harder! Good idea on the router You need a way to move the router head up and down with a screw adjuster.

[@sailingeden9866]

Wonder if the water sensor would work with a bildge pump?

[@markbernier8434]

Those drop in support plates have a habit of getting saw dust under them. You might be able to caulk the seam to keep it still (assuming you are not lifting it out all the time) As you are doing a bunch make up a u shaped piece of aluminium and file it to exactly the right height. Install the bit and drop it on the U and it is repeatable.

[@denisohbrien]

for the router bits, just add shims where they abut the collet.

[@inducatvius3883]

of course there are worse things than being in Quarantine in america together with your fiancé for example in Quarantine on a boat where you have to sand and apply epoxy on cabinets, hope you come back in good health and then take eva with you, that would be the best Quarantine for us :P

[@xXJasonardoXx]

I saw SANDING! .... Finally!

[@mikecarnivale7304]

How about a quick Q&A with Ava next week?

[@paial]

Maz, i would suggest you use bigger diameter hose between the tank and the filter, with this tiny hoses, you might get the hoses/fittings clogged before dirt gets to the filter.

[@spinnaker5514]

I was hoping when you get back from the USA and have a spare moment, maybe you could give us the part numbers for that sensor and light kit along with the Racor part number. I will be attempting to build a fuel polisher for my boat over the summer and since I have a single engine trawler having a dependable engine and fuel supply is paramount. Thanks for another great video!

[@benlindner5285]

They are sold by Defender and West Marine, you will need to know what model of filter you have.

[@mikehoward70]

It's a variant of the Racor 500FG. There's several stockists in the UK, and probably many in the USA. Do a Google search for it. The manufacturer - Parker - has a lot of info on line and most stockists I've seen either repost it or link to it. The variations and accessories - all by Parker too - are reasonably well explained

[@jamesallen712]

Ahhh. Glorious sanding.

[@TigRdk]

but hey, at least you are able to enjoy time with Ava for a prolonged period of time :) in stead of not knowing when you'll get to travel over there :) stay safe ;) we'll miss your progress, but that detail is minor :D