Top 10 Beginner Model Train Mistakes You Should Avoid!

[@spitfire4sergi]

Here’s to the golden rule! I always felt (and still do sometimes) intimated going into local train shops because I’m not a handy man, I’m not an amateur electrician or carpenter, and I’m under 40 years old.. I get the worst looks from regulars / am always talked down to like I’m a toddler. I just like trains and my basic layout. It’s why I love your channel so much, you’ve given the next generation of hobbyists a place to feel comfortable 🍻

[@TX200AA]

Do what you like, and run what you like on your track. The skills to make a model railway are many and varied, but I am sure you can build a layout that you enjoy, and that is what matters.

[@stephendavies6949]

That's a great shame. None of that happens at my local shop, Great Eastern Models in Norwich. They have the total opposite approach.

[@johnbeck3270]

If thes so called “experts” are shop associates, find another shop. There is absolutely no reason for them to talk down to you just because you’re new to the hobby, they started new somewhere. This attitude is a big turn off to new modelers, and can really drive new hobbyists away. When I worked in the hobby, I tried to talk to my “guests” as equals and did my very best to be informative and non opinionated. The real fun for me was getting a young person started in the hobby, they really want to learn. Some of the worst customers were the ones who came in ask for advice and didn’t use it, especially when it came to trains for very young children. You don’t give an N scale set to a toddler. I guess in closing, I guess my advice is this, try to find a shop with a knowledgeable staff who will be glad to answer your questions without insulting your intelligence. They are out there, good luck.

[@uwekall6281]

My fondest memories are from building my tracks as a kid on the carpet and using wood blocks for tunnels and driving my steam train with the lights in the room off only using the small bulbs on the front of my steam loco, those in the passenger coaches and the lanterns in the points (märklin M tracks): no fancy things anywhere to be found or needed. Do it as you like and maybe tell them it's 'for your kids' if they need it for being able to cope with their variety of customers 😂. I used to ask for Locos 'to play with for kids' on flea markets and the 'collectors' often had a tray with 'undesirable' but perfectly working older models hidden that they were willing to sell for a bargain. They truly were for my kids but without asking I wouldn't even have known..

[@jordandack3706]

​@stephendavies6949 absolutely agree. Great Eastern Models are brilliant, they're my local shop too.

[@patrickobert2581]

# 10 is the best advice. There are a lot of hobby killers/Gate keepers out there.

[@SamsTrains]

Yeah I think so too!!

[@nathanbowers6364]

"Don't put it down on a hairy carpet"; Sound relationship advice as well as sound model railway advice.

[@andreworton2132]

Sam knows his track is not ideally down , as he admits many many times

[@SamsTrains]

hahaha absolutely!!

[@nathanbowers6364]

​@@andreworton2132bit of a whoosh moment there.

[@kevfrombutterley]

​@@nathanbowers6364 The innocence of youth 😂

[@tenfootvoyager]

When I started in the early 50's Triang grey standard track(being solid) was OK on the back room carpet(short pile) but series 3 was a no no. It was only there a couple of weeks before Mum got the hump! 🤣

[@timbervalleyproductions]

Great vid sam, definitely agree with all of these, the only thing I would say is don't try and run before you can walk, it's always better to get a good trackbed and wiring before you start scenery - I made the mistake of starting scenery before wiring and getting a good trackbed on my first layout - and it was soul destroying having to rip bits of scenery up!

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks a lot mate - yeah that's very sound advice actually! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@Western-Ranger.]

I did the exact same thing!

[@davidsutton6787]

I'm at present building a layout (16ft x 8ft) and I've just finished tracklaying.Every piece of track has a dropper for power reliability,its DC,connected to a bus feed.Finally ran a loco on Friday,now for the scenics!

[@stephendavies6949]

Yeah, it's so easy to put the cart before the horse.

[@hughoconnor9172]

One "rule" that was missed is to start small but have an idea of the long term aim. You aren't going to create a Peter Waterman type (extensive) layout all in one go. It may also help to look at layout plans books that also gives measurements of the finished size. There is little point in designing a potential layout that is 16 foot long if the location is only 12 foot long.

[@marktegrotenhuis]

About the resistance fish plates create: Avoid only using short standard track pieces if you can. Once you know what your layout is gonna be, use the longest straight track pieces you can get from your chosen rail type or use flexrail. This drastically cuts down the number of fish plates and thus resistance.

[@chugwaterjack4458]

DCC Concepts has a new track "rubber" using aluminum oxide which polishes rather than abrades the surface of the rails, and the block is much bigger. I've used one extensively, and am quite happy with the result. My Number one three-part operating rule is: lay your points dead level across to avoid derailments, and check and adjust the back-to-back on ANY new purchase. I use the brass one available from DCC Concepts, but there are others out there. If your purchase has cheap plastic wheels, replace them with metal wheelsets as soon as possible. Following these three parts has nearly eliminated derailments on my layout.

[@Gatherleymodeller.]

Thank you I might buy one 😊😊

[@SamsTrains]

That's interesting - I might have to look into those!! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@DarrenLewarne]

Yep recently got one of these, (well the gauge master version) and they really good. Hopefully I can get another tomorrow at the NEC

[@1471SirFrederickBanbury]

brasso wadding may be the best way to polish rails. I wonder how fine the grit is in the DCC Concepts block, because it would be great if its >2000, but if its bellow, it will just sand the railhead down.

[@darkfrag83]

​@@1471SirFrederickBanbury they are designed to not be as abrasive to the track as other track rubbers on the market. They polish the rail head instead.

[@DoubleX8620]

I've actively played with my trains since 2021 after a 3 year break. I'm 21 now. I don't have a permanent layout unfortunately so I just build something small in the bedroom over the weekend and then take it down again because I need space. But when I do run trains, I run my Dublo Scotsman with DCC sound next to my Tri-ang Britannia and Wrenn Castle. I genuinely don't really care too much about accuracy of my trains I run anything from 1950s wagons next to 2020 wagons. Same with coaches. I do love to repair and service Tri-ang and Wrenn locomotives. Yes they don't have any detail, but they are inexpensive and fun. When my friend visits me occasionally who has a layout and runs modern equipment in accurate train compositions, he always questions my passion for basic and old locos, saying they don't look too great or accurate. I told him that I don't mind, I like to own a model of a Class, I'll get one. Doesn't matter which one (except for tender drives they are a bit fiddly). I mostly opt for the old Tri-ang one, as these are easy to repair and are easy to handle. I also have N scale with Japanese, British and Swiss stock and when I build my own railway eventually, it will be a OO hybrid of Japan and Britain, the two places I love (and yes I'm Swiss). Great hints, I always buy track new except for when it's for display purposes in the shelf only or a test track. Great video, Sam. Very informative indeed 👍

[@SamsTrains]

Awhh that does sound fun though - I remember doing that many years ago... very exciting to put up a temporary layout for a day or three! Sounds absolutely perfect - running exactly what you want regardless of the accuracy... it's just fun! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@BattleshipOrion]

Seems like you & I took a 2-3 year break at the same time. If I may, what was the reason for your break? Mine was costs & refusal to buy museum quality models at a premium.

[@DoubleX8620]

@@BattleshipOrion​​⁠ ah, it was nothing special. I didn't really have a special reason, besides that I was an apprentice back then and had to focus on that. Then eventually when Sam here mentioned the Hattons Marketplace, I had look and then when I bought my second train set, the Smokey Joe, I was hooked again and to this day I buy about one locomotive per month. Those include cheap projects, forgotten and rusted locos for me to restore to brand new releases. Playing trains helps me loosen up at my new job, which can get pretty stressful at times. In December, hopefully my Hattons/Accurascale P Class arrives and January will be a couple of Hornby models I pre-ordered. So, no big reason besides work life 😅

[@BattleshipOrion]

@@DoubleX8620 I know how that is. I recently got back in due to a number of local/regional preservation efforts. kept some of my old HO collection just encase of such an event, and since then looked into N scale, and some Mainland European HO equipment. I even have a re-ignition date for my fondness of trains. August 12th. If you ever feel like looking up some foreign stock, look up Atlantic Coast Line boxcar 20767(or ACL 20767) It was donated to the Fort Wayne Railroad Historical Society in Indiana this year, and was whiten walking distance (a quarter mile away at best)

[@greatnorthernrailwaytother4711]

Thanks Sam, some good tips. I clean and polish my rails with a champagne cork, size is good for HO/OO track. When it gets dirty carefully cut a thin slice off with a utility knife and you are good to go again. Once a year or so I use a small piece of cloth to wipe my rails with Inox MX3 which improves conductivity. I only use a Peco track rubber to clean after ballasting or painting, followed by an Inox rub and cork polishing. Cheers Peter from downunder.

[@stephendavies6949]

Ah, I can see how that would work! The wife loves her fizz, so we're not short of them in our house.

[@uwekall6281]

Good idea!

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks so much! I've never heard of that before... fascinating!! I'll have to give some of these a try! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@wealdhurstmodelrailway9666]

Inox is bloody amazing. I use it on my layout.

[@grahamsharpley4889]

At an air display some oik was saying to the owner about the inaccuracies of colour, namely the plane, an old DC3 Dakota, was in an incongruous mauve. After the oik had finished the owner asked “and what is the colour of your Dakota”. Rule 10 employed.

[@SamsTrains]

hahaha love that response!! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@grahamsharpley4889]

@@SamsTrains it was pleasing to see you and Chloe at the nec, it was certainly less stressful than the Warley mish mash and crush. We left at 5 quite relaxed and went to Brum for a really good Chinese meal.

[@Alan-ln3ls]

Joining a model railway club is a good way to get into the hobby. Pay attention to how other members have done things, and you will quickly learn from observation what you could usefully do - and, importantly, what you should not, whether it's how you build your baseboard, how you wire it all up, or how you create scenery. Talking of baseboards, I can add a rule 11 to your list: never use hardboard or MDF for your baseboard surface. Neither will accept track pins; hardboard needs to be almost 100% supported or it will sag; MDF will swell if you spill water on it. Remember also that timber framing will expand and contract to a surprising extent, being affected by both heat and humidity, and allow for this just as Sam suggests you should with the track.

[@RonCooper-nl4pn]

Hi Alan, I totally agree with you on joining a model railway club or a group. With this in mind I can honestly say that I have never had any problems with my layouts. I have two OO and two O gauge with one being exhibiting at Exhibitions. Regards from Ron 🚂👍😃✔️🚂

[@heirandspare]

I like the last rule that you mentioned. It can be applied to any hobby (or situation). For instance, take one of the train sets that you featured. Add a switch track to go to an accessory of some sort. Because you happen to have it. So you can find out what theme of your layout you would like it to develop into. After all, it's your layout.

[@peterm7548]

Good video with great advice. I would add that this is a hobby, not an exercise in micro-engineering, and it can never replicate the "real world". Indeed OO Gauge is already a compromise to accommodate the smaller UK loading gauge with model loco motors (almost impossible to model properly in the more accurate HO scale), meaning that from the get go all our locos and rolling stock are out of scale! Build to enjoy that's all!

[@Panniersadventures-d7p]

What do you mean HO is smaller by quite a bit they both run on the same gauge yeah but the loading gauges are of I’ve got a Lima 43 (I think it is) that runs in my OO gauge layout and it’s smaller then my coach’s it’s so funny to watch

[@stephendavies6949]

Yes. From tail chasers around the Xmas tree to Chadwick & Little Bytham and all those in between. All should be welcome in the hobby.

[@marktegrotenhuis]

In H0 scale (1/87) the 16.5 mm for standard gauge track (1435 mm) is very close to perfect. In OO scale (1/76) it's actually way off.

[@geoffwest1087]

@@marktegrotenhuis Yes - something like 8% too narrow. IMHO not much point worrying about details on models with such an error. ever looks correct.

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks a lot Peter - that's true - it should be a hobby first and foremost... though I do enjoy the micro-engineering aspect of it... but I say others should only do that if they enjoy it... not because they think they should! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@steventhomas9266]

Good advice all round. 😊 Another one that I frequently ignored is take your time and try to control the impulsiveness. After building my first layout I wanted to build bigger and bigger to the point that I had so many ideas but rushed into them with little regard for potential flaws. It's taken a 4 year hiatus to realise that going back to basics is the way forward and I'm now planning a simple diorama project. Downsizing my fleet due to life circumstances was a blessing in disguise as most were impulse buys yet never been run or taken out of the box, I now have a more manageable fleet. Number 10, completely agree! When I was returning to the hobby in 2013 I was very involved with RMWeb. You had those that gave amazing advice and you had those that nitpicked everything, they fell under the rivet counting nutcases! For a while I was doing stuff just to please them and it ruined the enjoyment of the hobby but now I just build and run what I like!

[@wagen_3_productions]

If you're running your trains on the floor, remember to always park them in a safe space! I once made the mistake and parked a train in the middle of the room. I was in a hurry and forgot about the train and "kicked" the locomotive off the tracks by accident. It's still running, but it's missing a side rod since then, which can't be replaced, due to the place where it was attached to the body of the loco

[@SamsTrains]

hahahaha! That's a very fair point actually - that made me cringe reading that! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@bjorngve]

Well, your train has gone through the war. Makes it even more realistic. My model collection of mining vehicles can easily loose a tiny plastic mirror or so. And I will make everything perfect with glue one day. But then again real world is not that perfect.

[@RG-Models86]

Great video, Sam 👍. If there's anything about the hobby that I regret doing, it's the fact that I collect multiple scales, which from a financial perspective, is insane, especially when multiple pre orders arrive at the same time in quick succession. My advice to anyone who wants to collect multiple scales is limit yourself to one standard gauge scale and one narrow gauge scale, preferably in the same scale too so you can have them in the same layout for example OO & OO9 or O & O-16.5. Hope you and Chloe are enjoying the national festival of railway modelling.

[@SamsTrains]

haha yeah I feel you - it's just so satisfying and enjoyable if you just love models. But sure, if you're on a budget or just starting, stick to one scale for sure Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@marktegrotenhuis]

My collection is H0 scale only, with the exception of a gauge 1 (scale 1/32) steamlocomotive with 3 freight cars which I will just have on display and not running on a layout.

[@MikePhillips-ru6hw]

Thank you so much. 3rd radius curves on a board, 4ft x 6ft is the minimum board size, at the age of 67, not the easiest of things to move! We will get there! Back in the 60s/70s oval of Super 4 and a siding set was heaven!

[@SamsTrains]

It's a pleasure Mike - yes a 3rd radius oval is certainly sizeable! I suppose that's where TT and N come into play! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@timsully8958]

Well done Sam! That is a very well thought out and comprehensive list which is useful even for seasoned modellers who might forget the odd thing now and then! 😉 I especially like the warnings about track. I had a garden railway which used to get really filthy, so I used to rub the rails with a cloth soaked with either meths or isopropyl alcohol and then use a piece of balsa wood to remove any stubborn bits, especially if I hadn’t used it for a while! Occasionally I would resort to the finest abrasive paper (like 8 or 10 thou) where it was particularly bad, but found that it wouldn’t damage the rail head if done delicately or just used a bit of aforementioned balsa 👍 The oil thing is very important too. I used 3-in-1 when I was younger, figuring it was ok only to find my engines got very gunky in seemingly no time! Thankfully, I had a kindly model shop owner nearby who recommended I go to a local appliance menders who specialised in sewing machines where I bought my first tube of sewing machine oil! I did try the Gaugemaster oil purely for the applicator, and although the oil is certainly ideal, I failed to see a difference to what I already had! 🤷🏻‍♂️ And the advice about the wheels is spot on. I probably seem a bit obsessive when I run stuff on my current ‘glorified test track’ because each item gets a wheel clean before being popped on the rails. I actually like to do this while I am running in locos at half speed after a service as it means I’m doing something useful! I also find packing unboxed stock in an enclosed environment helps, though I understand why people like to leave stock out as boxing it all up is tedious in the extreme 😫 Cheers Sam, thanks for another year of interesting content and enjoy your Christmas 🎄 🍀🥂

[@brianartillery]

'Pedantic, Rivet-Counting Nutcase' I can see that (prefixed with 'I'm not a') on a shirt, Sam! Great video as always. Thank you. 👍👍👍

[@SamsTrains]

hahaha that's not a bad shout actually! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@tonylarkin7564]

I would buy one of them😂😂😂​@@SamsTrains

[@more5347]

conversely, NOT a pedantic rivet-counting nutcase would also work. wear them as a pair with your non-train obsessed partner!

[@Charmaster04]

With "I'm a 'run what looks good' nutcase!" written on the reverse side.

[@stephendavies6949]

Hi Sam. Sound advice for railway modellers, both new and old. I encountered the "tight curves" issue when building my first layout as a boy with my dad back in 1970s. The only locos that would stay on the tracks were 0-6-0s! But we remedied the problem by investing in a track plans book. Just one point to add, if I may: WD40 Contact Cleaner (as opposed to the regular stuff) is a useful substance for cleaning wheels, gears, pickups, etc prior to re-lubrication.

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks so much Stephen - ahh well, always best to learn through experience! Yes you're right about the contact cleaner - that is good!! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@pkokkie3]

Well... if there's one thing i have learned by doing, don't start to big! I never finished a big layout. But now i am making small exhibition layouts for shows and it bring me way more fun!!! Keep up the good (model)work folks!

[@marktegrotenhuis]

I have yet to build my first real layout, but I have to go big if I want to run my trains properly. Because I don't have any space for a layout I started collecting trains 5 years ago. Quite a lot of them are full length trains like they run/ran in reallife. A locomotive with 7 passenger cars is not uncommon in my collection. Those trains need about 2.4 meters each to park them. 😅

[@pkokkie3]

@marktegrotenhuis 2.4 meters!!? Wow! That's impressive Mark! Dutch trains i assume?

[@marktegrotenhuis]

@@pkokkie3 Yes, Dutch trains plus a few international ones (Thalys, ICE-3M, ÖBB Nightjet, Rheingold)

[@SamsTrains]

I'd say that's very sound advice - certainly don't start too big! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@dannagy546]

100% don't be afraid to enjoy this hobby however you want. I have an issue where realism is most important to me, which is fine, it's how I personally enjoy things, but it also means I spend wayyyyyyy too much on extremely fine brass models and old books that define everything about the era im interested in. Recently I made the decision to have a more floating time line on my railroad because the specific era I wanted to model has an extreme lack of detail parts, such as cars and trucks, that it became impractical to model. Basically: just jump in and have fun! You may discover you love just having a bunch of mixed trains running around on an old table, or maybe you'll find you want to build a brick house on your layout with individual bricks! (Yes, some people do do this! It's incredible when finished but also mind blowingly slow and painstaking in the meantime)

[@SamsTrains]

Yeah for sure! And totally nothing wrong with loving realism - layouts made to be hyper realistic are unbelievably impressive - it's an amazing rabbit hole to go down isn't it? Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@dannagy546]

@SamsTrains it's unbelievable to see! I recently saw a 2 rail O scale Pennsy layout that was about 28 by 30 feet, which is small in O scale terms with more detail than I could pack into a single shelf given 20 years of free time!

[@lonnyyoung4285]

I am you except that I can't even enjoy a layout if it isn't accurate (which is impossible because running prototypical-length trains (I live in the US) is utterly impossible in most circumstances. I have a 20 car Daylight train (a mix of Broadway Limited and MTH) and an MTH GS-4 that is over 17' long. Tack on the AC-11 cab forward that is the helper, and you are at over 19'. I have nowhere to run something that long. I do, however, have a nice display shelf/diorama in my office that I am working on. It's close to representing an avtual section of track on the line on which it used to run. I do envy those who are perfectly happy running whatever random mix of rolling stock and time periods. I can't do it, but I am glad that they can.

[@dannagy546]

@lonnyyoung4285 oh I know the pain of wanting prototypical trains! I model the Pennsy from 1930 to about 1945 and would love a prototypical Broadway Limited from say 1936, pre Fleet of Modernism scheme. I also have a remarkable account of freight train ED1, The Arrow, from November 1931. Four massive I1 class decapods hauling 105 freight cars up to the Gallitzin Summit. 4100 pounds of freight, screeching banshee whistles and the thunderous boom of those massive 2-10-0 must have been a sight to behold! Alas, 105 freight cars in HO scale would be enormous, probably 45 to 50 feet long. Id also love to do an accurate model of the Enola Yard, but in HO scale were talking 300 feet long and 150 feet wide.

[@kevinheard8364]

I'm almost 70 years old and had a large-scale train - with a lot of track - as a boy growing up. It took up about 60% of the entire floor space in our finished attic. I enjoyed if immensely; and am so pleased to see a younger person enjoy the fun as well. Great video.

[@MervynPartin]

Very good video and sound advice, Sam. I have been railway modelling for 70 years, starting with Trix-Twin on the carpet and during the course of my life also modelled in 000 (Lone Star Treble-0-Lectric, very crude models with rubber band drive), Gauge 1, 5" Gauge, 7.25" Gauge so the pitfalls that you have pointed out are definitely to be avoided. One other thing to be avoided is letting your Father play with your trains after you have gone to bed, damaging your new loco that you had for Christmas! Yes, it happened to me. I now stick to 00 Gauge in the garage. I would add that WD40 does have its uses, however, on a Gauge 1 garden railway. A quick spray on the RAILS does wonders for electrical pick-up and also aids flange lubrication on tight curves. My 7.25" Gauge garden line also had very tight curves and benefited from WD40 to reduce flange squeal and wear.

[@111greatbear3]

Everything I own is second hand and older but works just fine that goes for track as well

[@LionGorrilaTag]

But be carful of too old track as it can rust (like the old old stuff)

[@adriannash2705]

Same here for the most part, as long as you keep it clean and well maintained it should last for a long time

[@SamsTrains]

Ahh well - glad things worked out for you! I'm all for second hand... just maybe not track haha! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@peterfranks5031]

That was probably the best advice I've ever heard. I run a garden railway, and I have a 6 foot rule. If it looks good from 6 foot, it is. I must admit, my track work is immaculate. Derailments are rare. Thanks Sam, well done. Regards, Peter. Kenton valley railway. ( garden railway that is)

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks Peter - oh that's fantastic - is your railway OO then? Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@andrewknights1304]

Track cleaning. Once a suitable rubber has removed dirt/oxides, give the rail tops and inside edges with a graphite crayon (Staedtler 2B- for instance). I have used these for years now (9mm to 32mm gauge) and in the loft track only needs a clean once a year or even less. Be warned, it is a lubricant and if applied too thickly can reduce the haulage capacity of engines (it can be cleaned off readily though). Good news, it may reduce the effectiveness of traction tyres, but it will not affect them chemically. Good video Sam, generally good generic advice there.

[@SamsTrains]

That's a good tip Andrew, thanks a lot for this! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@Michaelgoestofrance]

I was living in temporary accommodation and had three loops of N, TT and HO pre-ballasted track on hard floors. I have to say, now that I've got a permanent base I've sacrificed the loops in N and TT and replaced them with shelf layouts (no room for more than that) and have only kept the HO in a continuous run on the floor. The smaller scales required constant attention to run, the HO is much more reliable. Worth bearing in mind if your living situation doesn't allow for a permanent layout and you want some continuous running.

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks for sharing - how do you enjoy the shelf layouts? I've heard they can be great fun Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@Michaelgoestofrance]

@@SamsTrains The shelf layouts are still in the early stages yet. I'm not fully sure of what I'm going to do with them. Fortunately, I've got some decent length walls so I've got some room to play with. I may look into some automation (I believe you've done that in O gauge?). It would be quite nice to set them going and watch them heading back and forth 😁

[@elsbridgeproductions]

Glad to hear you're thinking about building a proper layout at some point, I've always thought for a model railway focussed channel, you're missing half the fun of model railways in building the layout itself! Can't wait to watch that series!

[@cjfauxx6266]

For another tip, do research on models (mainly locomotives) you want to buy. IF the model has QC issues, recalls, part scarcity, or limited to no support from the manufacture, I would stray away from buying. I once made the mistake when I first got into the hobby two years ago, I bought a used 1990's era bachmann 4-8-4 Northern in UP Overland Limited livery. It was an utter junker. It seemed like in good condition but I didnt know the checkered history of these models from bad plastic gears and axle rods to motors burning out. Of which BOTH cases happened to this model after a short while later. I have since scrapped it for parts.

[@SimonMarshall-Jones]

Well done Sam. What a great vid. Rule 1 is THE most important thing. It's your layour and you can do exactly what you want to fulfil your enjoyment. The rivet counters are a complete pain in the arse to be quite honest. We all need to enjoy this amazing hobby of ours and encourage the next generation of modelers. Well said sir. Your videos are an absolute inspiration and the reviews are completely fair to all the manufacturers out there. I model N gague but am still fascinated by your oo gague reviews as well. Keep up your fantastic channel. I soo look forward to seeing all your vids. Kind regards. Simon 😀😀😀🚂🚂

[@gwrtromsoe]

Great video! My tip: Cutting track and aligning track. Never try to freestyle or estimate alignment. It'll never work. A solid base, soldered in place before cutting is the way to go...

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks for sharing - that does sound good! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@maindip]

Great video Sam and you are right rule 10 is the most important. It's everyone's hobby and we spend our own money and time on it so we make our own choices. The only don't I would have is when building your layout don't get hung up on making everything look amazing straight away, always make sure you get the chance to run trains, even when things aren't finished, after all for most of us, that's the main part of the hobby, watching our wonderful engines and rolling stock run.

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks a lot - yeah absolutely right - couldn't stress that one enough! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@michaelcarey6019]

After trying most of the track cleaning aids I have settled on the CMXTrack cleaning truck. This cleaning truck uses Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) as a cleaning solvent. The truck is in the form of a tanker which is made of brass and is extremely heavy. The tank is fitted with a fine metering valve which drips the solvent on a pad which touches the rail. they are pretty expensive, but I find it invaluable on a large layout which incoperates tunnels which can be awkward to clean. Also I find it works very well over points etc, No need for abrasives of any kind in my view. And so easy to use, just couple up to your favourite loco preferably a hefty diesel loco. I always push the cleaning truck as this also cleans the loco wheels, job done, and away you go. i have used this for a considerable length of time and would highly recommend one of the these devices. Hope this helps, good luck.

[@DJ_K666]

I absolutely agree with all of these. Especially number 10. I'm building an exhibition layout at the moment and I'm tempted to buy 11 pop rivets and put them in a pot marked 'If you want to count rivets, count these. There should be 10' And watch the results.

[@SarcasticTentacle]

Even track rubbers are too abrasive honestly given they have metal flakes in them and save for removing more stubborn stuff like paint or glue post weathering are way overkill. Even then best thing to do there is to work in small sections and wipe the railhead clean with a paper towel before it dries in the first place. Ideally you want to use something softer than the metal of the rails so you don't scratch it like a block of hard wood for any sort of abrasive function. Chemically a lot of people swear by Inox mx3 contact cleaner, because end of the day you want your track to not be clean but an effective electric circuit. Mineral spirit/white spirit can also work (use in a well ventilated area because of fumes), both of these are non-polar solvents. These can adversely affect traction tires but it should be fine if you wait for the rails to be dry before using locos with those. Just use a small amount on a paper towel and wipe the rails with it once a month or something. Stuff like IPA, acetone and lacquer thinner are polar, don't use them because they will cause you to get black gunk more frequently.

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks for sharing! I can't say I've had a problem with my Peco track rubber - 10 years on and the track is still perfectly good, and doesn't need cleaning more than once monthly - but people should definitely do what works best for themselves of course! Thanks for watching, Sam :)

[@Thomas_Antics]

I have friends and KZbinrs who own HO/OO and I’ve wanted a model railway too, and with these tips I’m now gonna start buying stuff, thanks for the tips fan, I’ve been watching for a few years now. 👋

[@NextEevolution]

While expensive, I would strongly recommend Labelle's oil and grease for model trains. I remember when my collection began to grow and I wanted to properly maintain my models that I spent hours trying to find a plastic safe oil and grease to use for them. The 102, 107/108 oil and 106 grease has definitely helped me maintain my rolling stock and I would recommend them. I'll give the mineral oil a try though, as it's much cheaper than Labelle's oils, but I'll definitely stick with their grease for locos' drivetrain gears.

[@stephendavies6949]

This is an interesting subject. I have a couple of specialist model motor oil applicators, but they're now filled with sewing machine oil, which works a treat. I use either silicon grease or a slightly specialist oil, which is slightly thicker than the sewing machine oil, for gears. 99.9% pure IPA is my go-to wheel/contact cleaner, but I've recently starting using specialist contact cleaner too, although it's quite expensive compared with IPA.

[@NextEevolution]

@stephendavies6949 i spent a lot of time looking for suitable silicon greases and oils when I was first starting out, since I didn't want to pay for the admitted expensive hobby specific stuff like Labelle. Unfortunately, most that I came across was flat out *not* plastic safe or would claim to be but people who used the products found the claims to be false. I'm still very much open to taking recommendations though, if given by hobbyists who swear by it. Like the contact cleaner I also used to use IPA 90% but now use CRC 2-26, recommended by FishplateFilms. It works great on track and helped me get use out of even neglected steel track

[@petert9749]

Don't catch up with your channel often, but when I do it is really good Sam. KZbin is dead without comments, so apologies for making so few. The only number one rule on model railways is to stay safe - like if you are using power tools make sure someone knows about it and if you are building a removeable bridge over an access door, hang it outward opening so first aid can reach you. Have mobile phone handy. Next time someone 'monsters' you on your railway, look a bit distracted, then point to the feel-findable fire extinguishers at the door and elsewhere on your layout, and ask them where theirs are. I get into trouble over this. And no; I am not always innocent. Perhaps that you don't have issues on carpet is because you actually run your layout regularly. Used layouts give less trouble - Marklin of Sweden made that observation and I thank him for it. Even my weather warped layout with its 'live' scenery works OK if regularly run - and badly if it isn't. Running opportunities are slight. In an environment like mine, it helps to run a wire to every piece of rail. Far and away the most elusive migraine is to hard wire turnouts such that contact never relies on friction touch, such as that between the point blades and the stock rails. I have never seen this totally soled, the main problem being solder joint fatigue as the points move. I'm still working on this (or perhaps the equally silly 'Still, I am working on this') I once used what turned out to be an insulating lubricant on a loco: it just stalled. Peco once had Electrolube. Do you know anything about its new replacement? Does it leave residue? Does 'grease' on gears gather dust and become hard to clean abrasive? Finally, and mischievously (not mischeeeeveeeeously) you and Jenny Kirk have endless lineups of steam outline models. They defy infinity. Of course We, your devoted followers, watch agape, knowing that ALL of them work flawlessly. Who do you reckon has more? Um; they dooo all work, don't they? Good presentation Sam; I often refer folk to various of your segments.

[@billverdon2085]

IMy layout is Hornby Dublo 3 rail from the 50's and 60's and I love the robust engineering of the locos and rolling stock.. I know that the realism and detail is nowhere near the modern stuff but I like it. I have slightly .modernised some things like lamps and fitted carriage interior lighting also modern semaphore signals with led lamps. Love your videos Sam.

[@stephendavies6949]

My favourite loco is a Doublo City of London (2 rail) from 1959, I think. It hadn't run for decades, so I sent it off to OOBill who did a fabulous job of restoring it. Now it can haul pretty much everything piece of rolling stock I own!

[@wacojones8062]

I am 73 years old I have built a 4 foot by 8 foot N gauge layout on a sheet of plywood back in the mid 70's. lots of fun no scenery. I have quite a few HO engines from Athearn along rolling stock. some of the engines I bought extra shells which I hand painted black and bright orange with Silver for the LM & P Logo Lake Michigan and Pacific which I ran on a massive club layout my dad was a member of. He ran a 100 car iron ore train with all the cars having short coupling setups, individual reporting numbers with simulated loads and he used a Tenshodo Crown Grade Great Northern R2 2-8-8-2 to pull it. When he was out of work he sold the engine to a collector and sold the cars in 2 lots of fifty to club members as none of the other members could afford the engine and did not have any engines that could pull the 33 foot long consist. I have been a semi active train watcher most of my life. Biggest consist I have seen was a test run of a multi-unit remote control setup on the Chicago and North Western RR 24 engines 240 100 ton coal cars all fully loaded south bound for Chicago. 2 groups of six at the front end 6 in the middle 6 at the rear with a recording system on one of the lead engines. Good presentation.

[@williamsquires3070]

Also, try to buy all your track from the same manufacturer; if you decide to go with Hornby’s track, stick to it. Likewise, if you go with Bachmann E-Z Track, stick with that brand. That’s not to say you MUST stick with that brand, you may have to buy a specialized piece of trackwork to fit your track plan that manufacturer ‘X’ doesn’t make, but understand that it’ll involve some work to get it to fit. The main factors are; the rail ‘code’ (height of the rail in hundredth’s of an inch), height of the ties, and whether the track is plain, or has molded-on ballast. I also recommend buying at least TWO turnouts (switches/points) to start with; one L-H (Left Hand) and one R-H turnout if your starter set doesn’t have any. Also buy a like number of straight pieces of the same length as the straight section of the turnout; these will balance out the turnouts on opposite sides of the loop of track! Consider a loop (oval) of track with two semi-circles of curved track joined by some straight sections. There are 4 places where the straight and curved tracks meet. I’m going to label these 1, 2, 3, and 4, with #1 and #2 being the furthest away from you, and #3 and #4 closest to you, and #1 and #3 on the left side of the oval, and #2 and #4 on the right. With two turnouts, there are 2 basic ways to make a passing siding (the other ways are just geometric reflections of the 1st two: 1) place the L-H turnout at #1, replacing the straight track there, then place the R-H turnout at #2 - again - replacing the straight section there. Join the straight routes of the turnouts with more straight track, and join the curved (diverging) routes together with straight sections of track, and the little 1/3-of-a-curve piece that comes with the turnout. The little curved pieces should have their curvature OPPOSITE that of the diverging route of the turnout. Join these two ends with more straight sections. This design is great if you want to put a station for the trains to stop at! 2) place the L-H turnout at #1, replacing the curved section, and the R-H turnout at #3, replacing the curved section. Now, using the little curved pieces, extend the diverging route of the turnout with MATCHING curvature. Join the two ends with more curved sections. Or, you can make a number of designs with two stub-end sidings! For example, place a L-H turnout at #4 replacing the curved section, and a R-H turnout at #3, replacing the curved section. Now extend the straight route(s) with more pieces of track and a bumper piece at the end. You can now place an industry there to be switched (shunted)! Or you can place a small engine house and servicing facilities there, appropriate for the locomotives you want to run (steam vs. diesel.) Finally, you can just use the stub-end sidings as interchanges; a place where different railroads meet, or to represent far away places you don’t have the room to model. 😅

[@marktegrotenhuis]

About the turnouts: There are some rail programs that don't require special curves or straight pieces. For example Roco and Piko have a geometry in which the standard turnouts (15°) have the same length as a standard straight track. The 15° angle of the turnout also matches the 15° or 30° curves, so no special curved pieces are needed either.

[@erikjaneskes5575]

Hi Sam! I've googled your advice re. Vaseline (16:20) and found this: "Will Petroleum Jelly or Vaseline Conduct Electricity? No, petroleum jelly is not an electrical conductor and may work as an insulator. However, it is better to use specialized insulating materials, such as dielectric grease" Hope I haven't ruined your day! 🫣 ErikJan

[@SamsTrains]

Ahh interesting I've used it on pickups and things with great results! I've googled it too and you're right - they say it doesn't conduct - but what I think it does do is keep the contacts from corroding, and as long as the pressure of the pickup is adequate, you still get a good connection, as I've found! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@stephendavies6949]

​@@SamsTrainsYeah, the lubrication of electrical pickups is an interesting one. I've tried numerous substances on my Bachmann split chassis locos (which, as you know pickup via the axles), but I've reverted back to just keeping the axles and chassis as clean as possible, as nothing seems to work as well as this. Of course, it does increase friction and wear on the components.

[@mikeyratcliff3400]

Superb Sam! The most informative article you have made! As the late David Jenkinson, renowned modeller, author and photographer of our hobby for many years said 'it's my railway and I'll run what I want ( Despite Dapol trying to sell me the rather lovely SECR D class everytime I look at your channel!

[@Lewisbones11]

i bought a Bachmann 57xx at an exhibition for £25, it worked all food with no issues. a few days go by and i thought "oh i bet it pretty dirty on the inside" so i took it apart and cleaned it, however i had accidently got the cleaning solution i used in side the motor without realising. i then put it all back together thinking i had just made the engine run better but when i put it on the track and game it some power, it moved, stopped, hummed then smoked and sparked. i had fried the motor and it being one of the old pancake motors i couldnt find any on ebay so after it being st in the box for about 3 months i decided to make it a loco that was going for scrap which is where is sits 5 years later its safe to say ive been for careful ever since

[@johnbeck3270]

You removed some of the protective coating on the winding wire. You may be able to use a slot car armature in the motor. Try Auto World. They make armatures for the old “pancake” motors like were in the old Aurora Model Motoring Thunder Jet cars

[@Lewisbones11]

@ thanks for the suggestion however the chassis is worn down beyond repair so it’s not worth the money, it would be better just to get a new one

[@SeverityOne]

Excellent script and presentation. I've decided a long time ago to not build a layout (the hottest day of the year is from June to October in the Mediterranean), but I really enjoyed how well this video was made.

[@ianjeffery6744]

Excellent advice - it's YOUR railway, so do as YOU see fit! I would add one caveat, though, and that is to study the prototype, and see how real railways are laid out - stations, sidings, signals etc. - as that will prove more satisfying in the long run. This is more difficult, of course, if you're modelling the steam or early diesel era(s), given that the infrastructure is so much simpler these days...but there are plenty of books, photos, and heritage railways to look at!

[@A-zn3wh]

very timely video. used to do HO when I was really little and wanted to come back to it ~20 years later. Thanks for the tips. I never used WD-40, but I remember thinking the more smoke fluid I put in this one train, the more smoke it would make. needless to say did not end well. I can still remember the smell of whatever that stuff was.

[@PaulinesPastimes]

You use exactly the same sewing machine oil as I do, in the same bottle and everything, just different generic branding. I carefully snipped the spout of the bottle and fitted a syringe to it with a fine needle and I use it on everything. Excellent oil, works as well as anything. My little layout has an inner track with 1st radius curves and I use steel Super 4 track. It all works for me. Good video. 😊👍

[@HollenHays-xy5cu]

This is great advice! I’m hoping to start a model railroad myself, and you have offered great advice and tips that can help me out. Thank you so much, and have yourself a great thanksgiving!

[@marionbloom1218]

I remember some decades ago when nickel-silver track was a new thing, before that we always had steel track. At the time, quite a few of the more sophisticated Hornby locos had what was called "magnadhesion", using magnets to increase the force between wheel and rail, which resulted in a big increase in traction and pulling power. It worked well! But of course it doesn't work on non-magnetic track! So I stuck with the old fashioned steel track. I guess none of the modern models have Magnadhesion now, probably you've never even heard of it.

[@raypitts4880]

yes iv made a comment up above pain it was all the magnet did on nickel as replace the steel in the body all one could do was keep adding stock till it would not pull any more

[@marionbloom1218]

@@raypitts4880 I remember I had a steep grade to a bridge over the track on my layout, on which the magnadesion locos would pull anything up, but the others wouldn't pull a thing!

[@TenCJones]

Number 10 is the best advice of all! My biggest regret was putting a diecast Graham Farish loco body on top of a coal fire to see if it would weather it when I was a little boy. It turned black and then dissolved into a grey stain.

[@lindaoffenbach]

Hi Sam, quite some good advice. Of course your content is mainly about British outline generally speaking, but do be aware that for buying used track on Ebay you just need to make sure what the brand is in the first place, in case of H0/OO. For example, all the new high-end track systems on a plastic bed these days are just fine. E.g., Roco, Märklin/Trix, Kato, and what have we. For M, we even have bought entire sections of M-track (with metal track bed) as these are made to last a life-time. Of course, one needs to buy them in well good contact with the seller. These are so cheap you can even just throw away any bad pieces; no harm done. These don't even require frequent maintenance as long as trains run on them at least weekly. Perhaps once a year one could clean them. We just use these in covered areas, whilst the rest is made from K-track and Peco flexible track with home made middle contacts pukos. These don't need much maintenance either as long as trains run on them every week as well. For second hand track, just understand what you're doing we would say. Cheerio.

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks Linda that's very true too! That does sound like good track, I'd be interested to try some of that! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@lindaoffenbach]

@@SamsTrains That would be real fun Sam. Very low maintenance is just a property of M 3-rail of course since contact-reliability is very high. Down side of course is that it isn't prototypical. Depends what you require. 2-Rail just needs frequent cleaning (premium brand or not) but it looks more true to reality.

[@martinpattison1567]

Sam, steel track has been used for a very long time. The first layout was built by my father and my uncle when I was just six years old. They used steel track and even as a teenager I used Super Four track and later System Six. Yes, a little extra cleaning may be needed. Some KZbinrs still use steel tracks and old buildings to show viewers how it used to be. Some even use Zero One as a control system. I am using steel and nickel track because of my budget restrictions. If you have not seen my latest layout then please take a look. I had to wait 20 years before I had enough room for a layout. I have not wasted those years as I used the time to make model building etc. (I just had a problem with too many cardboard boxes filled with them.) Martin. (Thailand) "Yorkdale LNER Preservation Railway" (I do not like the sound of my voice in the videos.) Martin. (Thailand)

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks for sharing Martin - interesting that others still use steel - I suppose there will still be a market for it then! Thanks very much for sharing, Sam :)

[@aleopardstail]

100% agree with all of this note: if you have no real choice but to have a carpet layout for whatever reason, get some cheap 2mm grey card or similar, cut to a suitable size and glue to the bottom of the track. yes you can ballast etc, the point though is the colour looks "ok" but specifically it keeps the carpet away from the trains

[@davehitchman5171]

Love the dont let others tell you about... brilliant. My layouts are really just for relaxation, my main interest is in fixing old stuff I get second hand and not working into something that does, I have draws full of them, more than I could use if I had a 200ft square layout.... but I even tried to buy more this week but just missed sadly on a bargain by working instead :(

[@helmutsandner6964]

Thanks for another very interesting and informative video presentation Sam. On the number 10 rule. I agree with you, people should be able to build and run their model railway as they like. No doubt, running very accurate and prototypical trains is great. But it's also great to mix things up a little. It is possible to have era specific running sessions. Whereas you can just run 1950's trains for example. For the bit of modelling variety. Modelling a transition era can give loads of variety. As I was born in 1960. I remember the mid to late sixties railway in Germany. 1968 was a transition to computer numbering system. This would be my choice of era. If I were to restrict myself to era specific modelling. This was a decade of a mix of steam, diesel and electric locomotives. And the transition of corporate livery on locomotives and rolling stock. This era transition modelling can apply for the various changes in the railway scene. Then moving to Australia. I remember the early 1970's in New South Wales. I was fortunate enough to live next to the mainline between Newcastle and Sydney. I saw the last New South Wales steam locomotives in action. Double 60 class Garrett locomotives on heavy freight trains were certainly a highlight. I have models from Germany, America and Australia. And just for fun. I mux and match these up every now and then. As Sam mentioned, there's a lot of very talented modellers in the hobby. Which are happy to pass on their knowledge and experience. Happy railway modelling.

[@chanticleer6161]

Excellent video, Sam, many thanks. I'm about to re-enter the hobby after a gap of about 55 years (!), & this was a great help. Keep up the good work!

[@anthonylulham3473]

Thanks for the vid Sam, my dad has used wd40 on locos and wonders why they die! I'll get him some hemming oil! I'll add another common mistake. Don't buy before you build! The number of people who have unfinished scenery and boxes of trains unused in the cupboard is quite common. Two or three favourite locos run often are better than twenty run once a year ... Or less.

[@TrainmanDan]

Pedantic rivet counting nut case!? Hey hey, I'm in the room! Hah hah! I am currently in the process of building, bashing together, an O gauge GMD1 and yes I am counting rivets (although, for reasons, I don't always depict so many). I am sure that after 70 years I have committed many more mistakes than the ones that you have listed. Yes, I committed all of those. Whenever I encounter #10 I just look into my bag of F----s to see if there is any left in there. Almost always I never have any left to give. Cheers Sam.

[@raypitts4880]

my f bag is empty after 72 years i haven't any started in 52 loco 52-6 £2 30 p gramp pa gave me the money now 120-300 lovely still playing by the way loco still runs when it turn comes round

[@thestainmorephoenix8632]

Something I do recommend, having done this for many more years-preorder what stock you want. Sometimes you can get better deals if you preorder the stock you want

[@uwekall6281]

I totally agree with all those points and it is a really good topic and well before Christmas. As an exception specifically for newly built vintage layouts with märklin M-type tracks I'd like to add that it's perfectly ok to buy those used tracks and also the tighter curves (Industrie-Gleis): Even the longest steam locos go there without derailment and also don't cut out on points or anything. You can drive the modern rolling stock on it perfectly as well. It's a cheap way to start by using 60'ies stuff from your grand parents attic up to modern stuff with high details (and cost) and you get that true vintage feeling of the trusty full metal toy happily running through the decades.

[@jamesgoode3423]

#10 yup the most important rule and couldn't agree more! Your layout etc etc... and yeah don't use WD40, with which i successfully ruined my locos in my youth. Having said that, WD40 contact cleaner is great for cleaning up and restoring ancient Hornby Dublo models back to running....😊

[@richardstone3473]

Put it this way. I collect trains and try to get things eg rolling stock to go with said trains as historically accurate as possible. I have them on display on shelf units. I do not have a permanent layout but have a modest size table which I set up on and off. Got really annoyed at cut outs etc.I am now going to get rid of all my second hand/old track and buy new. Cos now I know what is causing it. Thank you Sam

[@MikayelBousseksou-w3p]

Good advice, never knew people used sand paper to clean their track, obviously not a good idea. The whole point of sand paper is to remove material to make the surface smoother. Great video, great advice.

[@2010ditta]

Like you my railway is on a carpet. I use 5 Bachmann controllers and only power the track in one spot. I have had 3 years trouble free running with my loco's. Yes the track moves but keep it down by using gorilla tape. It is unsightly but it works. All the best.

[@peterhopewell9431]

Unless you are desperate, never sell unwanted trains en masse to a dealer. They will rip you off!!!

[@SamsTrains]

That's a very good shout actually - pop them on Ebay and you'll do better! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@helmutsandner6964]

I totally agree with you. I can say that your statement is true from personal experience.

[@lonnyyoung4285]

I learned this one earlier this year, but mine turned out well. I was looking into selling pretty much everything I had because my kids had zero interest in the hobby, I didn't have the space to set up a layout (everything had been boxed up since 2007 when my parents moved from my childhood home), and I could have used the money. A few years prior, my parents and my aunt had a garage sale, and a guy bought up a bunch of my childhood toys. They mentioned that I had a lot of model trains. He was interested, but they weren't for sale at that time. Finally, this year, I was ready to sell (he had asked my aunt intermittently if I was interested in selling). I got all of my trains from my parents and cataloged everything, including looking for prices online to see what I might be able to get for them. I was looking at around $3,600 realistically (over 300 items). I got the gentleman's phone number from my aunt and called the guy. I offered to sell him the whole lot for $2,700. As soon as I heard him pause before responding, I knew I was dealing with a reseller and not just "a collector" as he advertised himself to my family. He then told me that he needed to make money, too, and that he would need to see everything (apparently, he didn't really do computers and would be able to use my detailed spreadsheet). One, I was put off at the realization that this guy just wanted to profit off me, but he wasn't honest with my parents and aunt. Two, I wasn't kern on the idea of having unwrap everything AGAIN just so this guy could see everything. The guy never gave me a counter offer (I likely would have rejected an offer anyway), and I never heard from him again. I haven't gotten around to selling much on Ebay (one container out of five), but I already made over $1000. You will definitely get lowballed by resellers.

[@michu.z.1457]

very handy thanks a lot , i wish i could It's a qute bad that this film is not released 3 years ago . i wouldnt' make few big misteakes like clean tracks by nail polisher ; and start building tracks with the largest and slightly smaller turning radius ; I used the smallest possible turning radius because, after several failed attempts at building helixes, I decided to follow someone else's ready-made project from the scarm program , and now i figured it out and i am repleacing only rounded tracks with bigger ones ; the point is i didnt realized that most of steam locomotives, and superspeed trains do not accept smallest radius turns. but i started with trains sets h0 scale from pico , roco trix ,and now i am adding passenger cars to that . I completely agree with the statement that it is not worth buying used train models or tracks - this It was a lesson from my father that I got many years ago to never buy used things and I still use it because many things, even those in the middle price range, can fail; but on the other hand i never 've been going to any railway modelling shows , and i read a lot on the internet , and watched a lot of youtube videos , i bought itrains and stuff that is needed for dcc train automation and will prepare it for next summer ; of course there is another thing that some people can do also " never try to do incline by youself , i bought iclines from woodland scenics - and this help me a lot ; and i like to run very fast so i bought magnetic cuoplers form almrose modellismo from italy -this things are amazing

[@barrycrews273]

Thank you for your advice and time. I got a lot from it and I would say the best would be rolling stock wheels. Never even thought of that!

[@joezuccardo3245]

I still use brass track and as long as you keep it clean it works for me and has has been working for over 40 years

[@davidhinks8384]

Great advice Sam. You love and care for your stock. Rule no 1 is a great starting point to simply enjoy seeing a train run and go from there. My regret is a 15 year old Dave repainting his Triang Jinty and No 27 040 multiple times. The former is now an overly sooty black and the latter is in LNER apple green, but they still run. Cheers.

[@Enzo_The_Magnificent]

I have to agree absolutely about your golden rule. Back in the long lost days of usenet, on the newsgroup rec.models.scale there was a very respected modeller called Al Superczynski. He always used to say "It's your model. Build what YOU want, the way YOU want to. But above all, have fun!" I can be a pedantic, rivet counting nutcase. And proud to be so! 😄 But that doesn't work for everyone, and I would never denigrate anyone for not being a PRCN. How rude would that be?

[@stephendavies6949]

I admire you, both for your commitment to details and your acknowledgement that others with different approaches are welcome in the hobby too.

[@michaeldesmondwoods3193]

I am just starting out into the hobby. I am buying my G scale rail road sets from my local Flea market and am enjoying them

[@markwakeley3835]

Great video and great advice, Sam. I've been in the hobby awhile and have made some of the mistakes you mentioned. The sewing machine oil is a good idea. It's light enough and not too expensive. Cheers

[@thespookdeville5112]

These days I only enjoy your videos Sam and love watching 00Bill. I can't mode anymore, I'm 76, poor eyesight and very bad nerves in my hands. I've still got a old western loco, tender and cabbous, it's plastic but I like to run it from time to time. I think it's slightly bigger than O gauge, plastic track, battery powered, no makers mark. Watched you for years now, always good, entertaining, and crazy at times, brilliant. Rodge David Kidderminster UK 🇬🇧 ❤️ xxx

[@stephendavies6949]

Hi there. Yes, Sam, OOBill, Chadwick & DansModelRailways are top of my list of KZbinrs.

[@tcm_tatra]

My first track layout usable for for models with 2 rail pick-up was second-hand , but not used, I'm still using it. My second track layout for 2 rail pick-up was again second hand , but was quite rusty , and in some places bended. After cleaning it a bit with the power drill with wire brush and polishing the fish plates for better contact, I've managed to get most of it to sustain power on locomotives. So I've put my most reliable loco with some heavy wagons with metal wheels to run fast for about 1-2 hours. At the beginning the wheels were sparking a lot and the loco kept cutting , but after a while there were no more sparks , there were less stoppages and the track got visible shinier on the part where the wheels are rolling. I like this realistic effect. My first track that I've ever bought was unusable , as at the time I didn't know there are different models and I bought one with 3rd rail pick-up , which non of my locos had.

[@allanmorton6022]

Great tips Sam especially the oils. You are right WD40 is tempting! I clean my rolling stock wheels as they do get very dirty. Great video!

[@fyrep0w3r]

WD-40 is designed to be used on things a tad bigger than power tools. Actually, it was designed to be used on Atlas nuclear missiles. It's also not intended to be a lubricant. Its job was to force moisture away from the unpainted steel skin of the missile to stop it from corroding. WD-40 actually stands for "Water Displacement, 40th Formula". It wouldn't be until much later that WD-40 would be sold commercially as a do-anything product.

[@stephendavies6949]

Yes. It's basically a drying agent. The contact cleaner product is useful, however.

[@MattsScaleModels]

Thank Sam, advice for new modellers is really important. Number Ten cannot be overstated, it’s so important to remember that you can do whatever you like on your railway. I think there might be interest in looking at some of the better locos and wagons of the last 10-20 years, for people to consider acquiring second-hand. A great way to increase the fleet on a. budget.

[@BritishThomasGuy]

my first train set was the industrial set which was second hand but never used, it’s great and i still have it today

[@SamsTrains]

Ahh fantastic - new-old stock is brilliant! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@timothyryan7234]

Hi Sam, love your videos. My name is Tim from the US and I am gonna be starting up a train set. I have HO trains Union Pacific caboose and some cars so I’m thinking after the holiday I’m going to set that up. Thank you for all the awesome contact and the great information, and love the entertainment take care God bless

[@ChapelEndJunctionUK]

Excellent video Sam , all I used to say to Arthur and Harry ( grandchildren ) was it's not a Scalextric racing track . I loved watching them run any loco with any rolling stock and in any direction , you could see the joy they got from it .............Peter

[@gregscally5119]

Great advice, Sam. Many things I knew but it is always good to be reminded as we all fall into bad habits occasionally. Especially valuable is your advice about WD 40 (a great product but not for everything) Allowing for rail expansion was a great hint. Some of our full size rail engineers are hopefully watching your video as every summer in Melbourne the suburban rail system goes out of action because of rail buckling.

[@olivernokesbooth7244]

Thank you for the advice on cleaning track. I had no idea that there are track rubbers and I'm going to get a couple soon. I started with a Hornby blue highlander train set and expanded from that.

[@stephendavies6949]

I have a couple of well used track rubbers dating back to the 1970s!

[@BaltoTheSniper]

I'm diving into the model railway hobby for the first time currently so this video came at a perfect time! Working on a G scale Thomas and Friends layout and I'm loving it so far!

[@SamsTrains]

Ahh fantastic - hopefully this helps you! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@bobingabout]

I think the biggest no-no from your list I've done, My Railway does actually include 1st radius curves. I'll need to double check where I actually used them, but I'm fairly sure it's just on a station spur. My layout actually includes 4 lines in certain areas, so the outer most track is 4th radius, and innermost 1st radius.

[@philbartlett7898]

Very useful info / advice there Sam. The one thing I regret is considering converting to EM gauge ands buying some stuff for it. Only yesterday I brought three yards of track down from the loft to my office. I put a Bachmann VBA on the track but it didn't roll at all and kept dropping in. Then I realised it was EM gauge !!! .

[@SamsTrains]

Thanks a lot Phil - ahh interesting - yeah that's very specialist isn't it? I take my hat off to people who model EM Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@chuckmaddison2924]

I use a spray cleaner i use for electronic work with cotton cloth. Non abrasive , safe and works . My track isn't held down as room without the air-conditioning on can hit almost 40c. It prevents any distortion.

[@ethmister]

True rule number 1. If you want a modern HST next to GWR steam castle and a Peckitt do it. More points if everything us hauling wrong stock. IE Peckitt is express HST is fast frieght and the castle is airfix and on a mission to break the sound barrier

[@tumbleweed6458]

I have found the NMRA standards gauge for HO, work well for modern OO gauge models. Many are using RP-25 contour wheels, which match the gauge well.

[@Blur4strike-2]

There's a bit of advice that I take when it comes to purchasing locomotives, check the voltage compatibility with your controller. (DC or DCC). Newer locomotives are not always compatible with older controllers, especially when it comes to the voltages. If you use a newer locomotive with an older controller there's a chance that things could go wrong, frying the locomotive in the process, an expensive mistake one should avoid making.

[@johnbeck3270]

“It’s my railroad, and I’ll run it the way I want, always liked that line. Second I believe it was some of my Lionel stuff, I actually had to take a screwdriver to get the gunk off the wheels. I remember somewhere someone was cleaning wheels that had so much gunk buildup, the flanges weren’t even in contact with the rails. Plastic wheels are more prone to pickup gunk than metal wheels too. I’ve had great luck using a pink eraser to clean rails, they are light on the abrasive. I do wonder about your OO radius ratings here in the states we have 15” radius curves, which is suitable for industrial/mining or trolly layouts ( personal opinion). 18” radius is what comes in train sets. It’s suitable, but. 22”, 24” radius is available from sources like Atlas. Bachmann has even broader curves available in their grey nickel silver easy track line. So my question is what is the “measured radius” of the track you use, and how does it compare to what we have here?

[@fawnathefox9600]

I had a set of passenger cars that had some extremely dirty wheels, the dirt buildup was enough to make the wheels themselves taller and cause the flanges to slip off the rails and derail the cars.

[@stephendavies6949]

Wow.That calls for drastic action, such as the use of a Dremel-type tool to get those clean!

[@davehitchman5171]

10 years.. nice, I have been doing it for 50 or so. Yes, I use second hand track a lot, not always wonderful especially with older steel track but you have to go back quite a long way back to find plain rusty steel. I have used sandpaper as well, only when things are very very bad mostly just a cloth and brasso, probably also wrong but hey

[@michaelmorgan7893]

I definitely made the WD40 mistake that ruined over a dozen older Athearn blue box locomotives. It froze the motors up so they ran hot, radically shortening their running life. As you say, it didn't do the paint finish on the locomotives any favors, either. I tend now to stick to the LaBelle 106 and 108 for lubrication.

[@GarethFarnsfield]

Sound advice. My layout is in the loft. I thought I had left enough space *where base boards meet* but no there is one place where my trains go over the top of a hill quite obviously. To sort this it will be necessary to lift the track plane out the join, repaint, re ballast etc. All could have been avoided by leaving a match stick width between baseboards. I imagine the same thing applies for sheds. Arrrrrrgggggg!

[@countottovanshanoo822]

WD40 is ~60% white spirit - don't use it anywhere near electrical stuff or plastics/paint unless you tested it first. When your track is clean, say after doing scenics, and your track is fixed down, a block of planed pine timber (not cut timber) works extremely well to keep it clean, and doesn't scuff the rail heads at all. A cloth damped with metholated spirit is good too if the dirt needs a bit of shifting or is 'greasy'.

[@SamsTrains]

I just don't use it full stop... it goes on my door hinges and that's about it, haha! That's fascinating too - don't think I've heard of that for track cleaning - maybe I'll have to test that! Thanks for watching - Sam :)

[@davidjackson9317]

I regret thinking that I could save money and get more trains if I started by buying up old locos and rolling stock from lots, and refurbish and repair them myself. I ended up spending a lot of money and wasting a lot of time, to end up with a meager amount of trains and rolling stock. If I had just bought some decent new models from the beginning I would have ended up with trains to run, instead of a giant pile of 40+ projects that may or may not ever get finished.

[@stephendavies6949]

Ah yes, many of us can empathise with you.

[@danshobbies13]

The only footnote I would add is about track laying on carpet. Many companies now have roadbed track. Bachmann EZ track or Kato Unitrack. That can be used on carpet with a lot less risk of getting carpet fibers in the driveline of your locomotives.

[@wealdhurstmodelrailway9666]

Number one for me, and it is something I still struggle with now, is make sure you support your baseboards with underside beams. I have a lot of problems with board warp which is a real nightmare to remedy. Secondly, don't spray paint your track with grime / rust. You will kill the running performance and will generate a load of work with the track rubber. Thirdly, DO NOT USE HORNBY TURNOUTS!! I wish I had known this at the start. I now have a goods yard that is difficult to shunt due to the dead frogs.

[@1471SirFrederickBanbury]

Id also recommend buying cheap old used, but importantly for beginners, tested running locos off of ebay, also there's rolling stock being sold in lots for cheap, and I cant recommend rolling stock and loco kits enough! Just make sure your track and wheel standards work together (Triang with Triang and alike, P4 with P4, EM with EM, 00-sf only using modern wheels, etc), otherwise you'll get frustrated, unless you make your own standard and really know what your doing. Also, get very familiar with loco mechanisms, so that you can buy super cheap dead locos and make them run better than new rtr, and so that you can also fix and improve locos, a skill that pays for itself very quickly!