Samsung dryer not starting | clicking sound | Thermal Fuse Replacement

[@MA-ij3sp]

THANK YOUUUUUUUU! You just saved me $150 minimum. I didn't take out the drum. just took my time there is enough room for a screw driver. You can also opt to remove the vent which is much easier to put back. I had this exact problem. Cost me 10 bucks to get all the fuses online.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Awesome new ! Glad you got it done. If your dryer is over 4 years old, I recommend you open it up and do a small cleaning as you are already there. Thanks for watching

[@MA-ij3sp]

​@@appliancerepairshorts Thank you, I might have celebrated too early. Now it starts and stops after a couple seconds. After a couple tries it gave me tC code which states: "The Thermistor1 resistance is very low or high. • Check for a clogged lint screen • Check if the vent system is restricted" I checked everything (vent and filter all the way through) and I did clean it while I was down there the first time. In fact when it runs briefly the air coming out the vent seems unrestricted so I'm not sure. I do have a thermistor laying around I'm thinking to just change that too (it's right next to the thermal fuse). You think something might have fried all these fuses?

[@MA-ij3sp]

I changed the Thermistor and the same code persists.

[@13aspen21]

Excellent video you just made my repair a lot easier, now to find the part on a Sunday when all the appliance parts stores are closed.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Email me I’ll tell you a trick. It will get you through

[@DC-vk6ug]

Great video it's solved my problem on LG dryer. It's 1 Year old and had same issue.Thank you. You save me money.

[@cobraman502]

Thanks, I had mine go out yesterday and I purchased both of the parts you showed from Amazon. Should be here today, hope to have it up and running this evening. Great video!

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Thanks keep me posted on your repair

[@cobraman502]

@@appliancerepairshorts got the parts from Amazon and had it working about 10 minutes later. About 6 months ago I put a new belt and tensioner pulley. After I got all working I put on low heat and turned on. Then cleaned the exhaust vent with a 20 foot long flex brush for a drill.

[@DJJimmy30.]

Thank you for your help! Saved my neighbor lots of money!

[@appliancerepairshorts]

My pleasure,also make sure the vent is clean. If the dryer is taking more than one cycle. You can use time-dry for 45 -50 minutes. Thanks for watching I appreciate it

[@renevara8899]

Your video kept me from replacing the whole motor. Thanks for the video/help

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Appreciate it , thanks for sharing

[@scottyboy7804]

Thank you so much for showing this video I spent $120 on this dryer and it wasn’t even the problem it was only a $15 problem and it’s what you were showing imagine that thank you so much again for fixing my problem

[@appliancerepairshorts]

My pleasure, my email is open for questions. Thanks for watching

[@scottyboy7804]

Yes I appreciate it you just save me $1000 or I will keep you in mind you to save selection lol never know when I’ll need you again

[@digitalkov]

I found that you don't need disassemble the whole thing to replace thermal fuse. Just remove the vent hose bracket from the back side. Then the whole tube (tube you see in the middle at 6:06) will come out. You'll have enough access through that hole to remove & reinstall the fuse. If you need 2 hands in there, you can knock out the extra service hole (the circular panel you see toward top middle at 6:06). You can knock this out with flat screw driver and hammer by striking 5 or 6 attached spots along the circle. Once you knock that out, you can work with 2 hands in there. Easy to replace idle roller this way, too.

[@independenttntn3276]

Yep. That's what I did before I ripped the entire dryer apart and scattered pieces throughout the house.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Yes I’m aware of that. You will find people doing things differently. When you open your dryer the proper way for repair. You can inspect other parts and clean. It takes less time to dismantle than to fight to see what you are doing in the back. Been there, don’t recommend it.

[@delhollingsworth4755]

@@appliancerepairshorts can I reach out to you somehow? My dryer samsung model dve50r5200w/a3 want start but will light up. When I press start I can hear a click sound. I just paid $85. to a rep that says it's the circuit board, & it's backlogged from China. I'd come out better buying purchasing an Amana or Roper.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

@@delhollingsworth4755 so sorry my email is listed. It sounds like a belt is off , a thermal fuse, or a bad board. I’m running the model number now. What was the outcome?

[@wadecasper2575]

thanks so much for this video. I was replacng the wrong fuse. i changesd the fuse and the thermastat but not the one you changed. i did that and the dryer started right up....THNAKS!!!

[@claudioportillo9319]

Thank you so much for the video😊

[@appliancerepairshorts]

My pleasure 😊

[@hugofarias2374]

Thank you so much for the video it was really helpful.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

You're very welcome! Appreciate your feedback

[@DholToronto]

Excellent video! I have a Samsung dryer Model dv45k6500ev/ac and it makes a clicking sound when turned on. At times, when I manually spin the drum with the hand, and press on, it works and other times, I need to turn off and power it back on. It has stopped working mid cycle on one occasion. I Guess it isn't a blown fuse, otherwise it wouldn't turn on. What could be the issue? Thanks in advance.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Sounds like you might have a bad motor. Do this, if your dryer has air fluff/ no heat cycle. Put it on run it for 15 minutes. Do you hear a humming sound before it starts

[@MistaMatt]

Thanks man u the goat!

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Those beautiful comments make it worth it. Thank you

[@kkbullhead1]

Thank you for the video, my Samsung dryer makes a clicking noise when I turn it on and the drum will not move I replaced the pulley, the belt is in line, the clicker for the pulley works. I’m wondering if it can be the thermal fuse? I did notice when I turn on the dryer let it set for just a few seconds I get a very faint burning smell. Can you help me out here? Before I have to call on someone

[@stephaniebartok7575]

So is that a fuse that had to be replaced? My dryer is making this exact sound and won’t start. I have a repair man coming this Wednesday.

[@allanfajardo1638]

The goat 🐐

[@AlexWilsonii]

I seem to have this exact issue. I've already replaced the thermal fuse and, for that matter, all of the other 3 fuses/sensors near the heating element. The dryer is still doing the exact same thing. Just a single click when I hit start. Any idea what else I should check? I'm stumped!

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Make sure you have all your wire connected. Check your belt switch. Your belt switch could be bad or lint buildup. You might have a defective part. Are you testing the bad part. What test have you done? Recap. When you press start and you hear a click, a few things can cause the . The belt being off/ switch is bad, the thermal fuse and the board. If all is good, get a screwdriver handle and gain access to the board and tap the relay. Not the one with two wires the one next to it. Unplug before doing anything. Keep me posted. I also have another video with similar issues, but it was a belt. I’ll try and find it for you. If not Samsung clicking sound

[@appliancerepairshorts]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnm3eYqCba5qpZosi=Gp75yycbZecnjAoU

[@gostudystudent3763]

Any idea what the issue was? Same with us, we replaces all these and still clicks but doesn’t turn.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

@@gostudystudent3763 did you check the new component to make sure it is not defective? Also check your belt switch or the belt wasn’t installed correctly.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

@@gostudystudent3763 check your work/connections. Also test the new part it might be defective. Or your drum belt is off /broken or a bad idler switch

[@Gigachadd808]

The thermistor next to the thermal fuse that you could not get a reading on should measure somewhere around 11k ohms so if you are checking for continuity and not ranged to the right resistance then you won’t get a reading it will be open.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

I actually have videos on testing exactly what you are saying. You are right, but they are sensitive to heat and depending on the sensitivity of the tester you might not get a reading. Thanks for watching

[@tobias.mcleod1900]

Super helpful! Thanks to a neighbor that had the multimeter

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Awesome! Just seeing your comment

[@tonycallister]

Awesome video however, I replaced the fuse that required the heat as all the other fuses had continuity and that was the only one not making a sound so I assumed it was that fuse. Put the dryer back together and it still just clicked when I turned it back on. Could it be anything else???? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

[@tonycallister]

Also to give you context, the dryer stopped working after I put a set of tennis shoes in the dryer by themselves (lots of banging for about 1 min then stopped) The dryer worked fine before that and is about 1 year old.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

@@tonycallister sorry just seeing this, I think you might have some restriction in your vent. Either the dryer vent or the house. Check your blower wheel as well. Also check your belt, belt switch and check the thermal fuse again. You can do a little bit of bypass just for checking. Usé electrical tape for securing any wires that are exposed. Keep me posted

[@Michellelove0502]

@@tonycallisterdid you ever figure out what was wrong? The same exact thing happened to me. Put shoes in the dryer and now I get a clicking sound. I’m planning on changing the thermal fuse tomorrow but not sure if it’s going to fix the problem.

[@axemanjoe2945]

​@@Michellelove0502did changing the thermal fuse work? The dryer I have just clicks when pushing the start button

[@ripsgarage]

Thank you so much man!

[@AaronForeman7]

Hey guys, I think this is what your looking for. DC47-00016A Thermal Fuse

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Thanks for the part number. Totally forgot.

[@PitoKun]

Do all Samsung dryers use the same Thermal Fuse or do I need to find a specific one for my model?

[@markheartland2]

Shouldn’t you unhook one of the terminals before you check for continuity?

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Sorry for the late response, just going through comments. To answer your question, yes and no. The idea is you are looking for a clear passage. You are looking for a signal. If the item being tested is broken, as in no signal. Having the wires connected is not going to give you a signal. So no you don’t. Sometimes if you have multiple sensors that are connected to one, source, then yes.

[@luisurrutia7344]

So if my dryer is making that clicking sound it's that part??

[@cally123]

When I start my Samsung dryer I hear the clicking noise, but my thermal fuse tested positive for continuity -- is it possible for the fuse to test okay via multimeter, but still be the culprit?

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Yes, it could, but I would check other components like the belt switch, door switch. Before you do that, what voltage are you getting at the outlet. Also the power block

[@melansoriano1176]

@@appliancerepairshortssame problem with mine and im getting 0.2 olms is tha enough or do I need to replace it?

[@appliancerepairshorts]

@@melansoriano1176 so to rule it out, get a piece of wire and bypass it. Note!! Only for testing. Check make sure you are getting 240 volts at the terminal block. Keep me posted

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Did you get it resolved?

[@melansoriano1176]

@@appliancerepairshorts Yes it works but the actual problem is the belt! The technician quoted as $320! But I never saw him test all parts! So I said no and I did it myself check all parts continuity after watching your video and did what you said. All are working well so I change the belt which is missing when I open the machine and presto it works! So thank you so much for sharing your expertise and God bless!😊

[@Javionmcquillin]

What are the parts exactly called that you replaced

[@appliancerepairshorts]

amzn.to/41u4iUO

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Thermal fuse, but check your blower wheel, your vent or even a grounded element

[@globev61]

What guy are you replacing ?

[@appliancerepairshorts]

The thermal fuse. The part number is in the description. Thanks for watching

[@ottur]

Great video, What do you think Samsung Dryer keeps giving HC code. I cleaned everything in the machine, I removed the Drum to make sure no lint anywhere but still working 2-3 minutes and giving an HC code stopping the dryer.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Do you have a meter to test your heating element? It sounds like it may be grounding- the coils are touching the element housing or there is a screw that may be touching. I have a video on how to check for a grounded element. It may also the motor. To check it, put it on a no heat (air dry/fluff) cycle and let it run. If it doesn’t cut off, then your motor is fine. If it does, replace the motor. I might have a video on that but if you need any more help, let me know. Thanks!

[@ottur]

@@appliancerepairshorts I have a meter I will check everything, I will try to find your video, The air dry/fluff function is a good idea :) thank you.

[@ottur]

@@appliancerepairshorts I checked all parts and also checked the screws to see if there it is shorting to run too hot all seems fine, after that I changed the thermistor and it blew the fuse next to thermistor and I replaced the fuse and put the old thermistor back problem is back being HC code very frustrating. I also run the refresh mode and it seems like running OK under refresh. as soon as real dry cycle starts it is giving an HC code after few minutes.... I wish there was an easier way to check this thing other than trial and error.... Thank you for all your help.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

@@ottur put the dryer on air fluff, it should not heat. If you are getting hot on air fluff, you have a grounded element

[@javiervargas2325]

Do i need a certain fuse tester?

[@vronh88]

So My dryer was doing just this. I changed the thermal fuse and it started up. Ran for about a week, and now back to doing it. Thought maybe the fuse blew again, but it was still good. Any ideas ? Belt seems fine.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Thanks for watching, your thermal fuse is located on the element. The small one Infront of the high limit thermostat. If you press the start button and nothing. You have a bad belt switch, broken belt,idler pulley wheel is damaged and is causing the belt to come off. The thermal high limit is a safety fuse. It is part of the heating circuit. The thermal fuse will stop it from heating. So what is going on with your dryer now? Not turning on or not heating?

[@vronh88]

@@appliancerepairshorts thanks for replying !! I first changed a thermal fuse on my heating element. After using a multimeter, I realized the thermal fuse next to the motor was out (so I changed that as well.) That fixed the problem. I ran it for week, and now its back to square one. When I press start, it clicks. That what was happening originally. So I figured the thermal fuse went out again, but it didnt. Now I'm not sure what's going on. My belt is tight, idk what else would be causing it.

[@vronh88]

I did also buy a new control panel, I checked my circuit board (mines a touch screen) I didnt see any blow outs. I'm at a loss.

[@davidramosjr1180]

Can you bypass it meanwhile parts come in to keepnworking? Tyia

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Just seeing your comment. Normally no, but if you have verified that you don’t have a problem- then yes , but only temporarily. Keep in mind that there is usually a problem that is why it failed. So check your ventilation from behind the dryer to the exit of the house. Also the blower wheel, grounded element or high limit thermostat on the element. The first one as you are looking inside. If you don’t hear from you you can email me. I get comments late

[@Steven-Primrose-Hazel]

Pretty sure this is what i need to do. I think my vents might be needing cleaning

[@appliancerepairshorts]

How long was your dryer taking to dry a load?if you have to run it more than once, your venting is clogged

[@rayogamefarm3127]

Can you help me out my dad bought a washer and dryer but never used them I got them but the washer doesn’t turn on it just clicks no lights turn on or anything

[@appliancerepairshorts]

So tell me a little more, what kind of washer? Include a model number. Have you tried unplugging it for 5-10 minutes

[@thomasfigueroa7074]

What is the replacement motor for this dryer?

[@eric1302]

$89 on Amazon

[@appliancerepairshorts]

So sorry for the late reply. If you still need help, please email me. Thanks

[@wadehaynes9851]

Maybe the model number in title or transcript would help 👍

[@appliancerepairshorts]

No it wouldn’t, but tell me why you think it would help. They all do the same thing when part in question is bad. I normally include mode number, but not sure if this unit did not have one. It happens. If you have a specific question, just ask

[@alanfawaz4960]

Why does the thermal fuse keep blowing not clogged

[@appliancerepairshorts]

You have a few possible reasons, a grounded element. Check with your meter. Check your blower wheel, check the high temperature thermostat on the element. Also are you using OEM part?

[@p.g.8138]

My dryer was overheating. It now clicks and doesn't come on. It did this after I cleaned all the lint out so I know there's no obstructions. I'm afraid if I replace the thermal fuse it will start overheating again.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

So let me start from the beginning. If a dryer is overheating, that could be you have a restriction somewhere. That is normally the venting portion. The thermal fuse on the blower housing. You can test it for continuity. The next could be a grounded element, which will kill the thermal fuse and the thermal high limit cut off. The one on the element. So replace the two on the element and the thermal fuse. Check the element for continuity again the body to the element wires

[@p.g.8138]

@@appliancerepairshorts I've replaced the element twice in less than a year. I replaced the thermostat and fuse on element and it doesn't start up. I'm buying a new dryer. In my opinion this dryer has been nothing but trouble from the time I bought it used.

[@horacioferruzca3479]

What are those parts that you replaced?

[@appliancerepairshorts]

The only part that was replaced was the thermal fuse. Sorry I should have explained more in depth. Make sure you check your venting behind the dryer and also the venting that is outside. Thanks

[@delhollingsworth4755]

Can I reach you some way?

[@appliancerepairshorts]

I’ll send you an email shortly

[@Ihup-um2yn]

What multimeter are you using brother? I like that it beeps where can I get one at?

[@appliancerepairshorts]

amzn.to/3TIVG8U

[@appliancerepairshorts]

I appreciate it brother

[@giftgram]

my samsung clicks the same way.as this. I changed this same cut of and all other at once. dryer will run 2 cycles and blow the switches again, causing the dryer to click, to do the same thing. again. with a bad cutoff again. Im thinking it may now be the control board is bad.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

So first off, before you were having issues, how long was it taking to dry? If it was taking more than one cycle to dry. I would start at your venting. Make sure everything is clean and unrestricted. If you just had a new roof on your house, go to the venting and check. Builders always leave the screen on them. Remove it. You have a flapper. If all those are good, I would check your blower wheel make sure it is spinning properly. If that is fine then remove the thermostats and use a hairdryer/heater and test them. If your cycling thermostat isn’t cycling,it will blow the thermal fuse on the blower housing. I have a video on thermostats and thermistors. It is a slim chance it would be the board . The board sends power to the element through relay. Usually the dryer would stay running on a or will not start. You will not hear a click on a bad board.Did you buy Samsung OEM? It makes a difference. Keep me posted on your repair.

[@independenttntn3276]

@@appliancerepairshorts "You will not hear a click on a bad board". I want to scream given everything I tested above. So if everything I mentioned tested good, what would you do?

[@appliancerepairshorts]

@@independenttntn3276 first tell me what symptoms you are having. Don’t tell me what you think. Bad boards can click. Sometimes they don’t. So explain what the dryer is not doing and tell me what you have checked and how

[@independenttntn3276]

@@appliancerepairshorts The dryer powers on, but after you select the cycle then push the start button you just hear a click that sounds like it's coming from the rear of the dryer. Updated: I finally fixed it. Should have gone with my initial conclusion to begin with.

[@BRD-0715]

@@independenttntn3276 What ended up being your issue?

[@gregferguson2398]

What the part number

[@appliancerepairshorts]

amzn.to/41u4iUO

[@appliancerepairshorts]

You might want to check your belt/belt switch.

[@independenttntn3276]

What are you checking ohms? Looking for an open circuit I presume? It would be helpful to explain what you're doing. Anyone who doesn't have a background in electronics or appliance repair will have no idea what you're doing. I can presume, do to my background that you're checking for open circuits\switches early on in the video. Saying "this guy" and "nothing" when checking the thermal switch isn't helpful when people have no idea what you're doing. Appreciate the video, but you need to state what you're checking (thermal switch) and how you're checking it (looking for open/infinity ohms) and explain that the multimeter is set to ohms and you should see approximately x ohms when you measure this.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Fair enough, yes the part I replaced was the thermal fuse. It is located on the blower housing. It monitors the temperature in the venting. If you have a failure that would cause the temperature to get to a unsafe limit, it trips. I was checking for a close circuit. When it is in a closed position you get a reading, continuity. A bad thermal fuse is opened. Make sure you your venting from the back of the dryer to the exit is free of restriction. Thanks for pointing that out

[@independenttntn3276]

@@appliancerepairshorts You're welcome. Thanks for the video. After re-reading my comment I sound like an ass (to me at least) and didn't mean to come across as rude, just wanted to point out that you're the pro and what comes as second nature to you is a mystery to many of those watching. Speaking of being a pro, you may get a kick out of the fact that my comment above was posted a month ago and my dryer remains in pieces so my wife is getting tired of hanging clothes. I was really hoping it was the thermal fuse but it wasn't and things are never easy for me. If I had luck, I would have been retired from Holdem decades ago, yet here I am. My dryer sounds exactly like yours in the video. The motor windings (centrifugal switch pins 3/4 and 4/5) are in the expected resistance range, the door switch, belt cut-off switch, resistors (element etc) all good, there's no burn marks on the main control board which is where I think I'm hearing the click and I suppose the clicking is the relay switch on the board which is open between the terminals but there's no mention of what it should be so I expect that's normal until it closes, unless it's not closing. And like an idiot, I didnt read through Samsungs entire technical guide that came with it BEFORE I started troubleshooting and now realize I could have entered test mode and pulled up error recall. Given the clicking is on the control board, I'm going to put it back together and check for errors and probably roll the dice on the main board. I don't know where you buy your thermal fuses, but you can pick one up on Walmart.com for about $7. I did that, then realized when I got the new one I had tested the old thermal fuse on the wrong resistance setting so I thought it was open. I was more unhappy than my wife about that. But as you know, it's kinda hard to measure 25K Ohms on a 200 Ohm setting. I wasn't happy when I realized my "fix" was in fact not.

[@cmt1266]

So what the heck is the name of the thing you replaced!? DUH🙄

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Sorry for the late response. Sorry I didn’t mention it. Thermal fuse.amzn.to/41u4iUO

[@DaGreatGod21]

You did that wrong lol you gotta take off at least 1 lead when measuring continuity otherwise she won't get a good reading

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Been doing this for a while. Continuity is a signal. No signal no continuity. Imagine a Christmas tree with lights. If one light is out, it stops the circuit, so no lights. Anything in a circuit that is at fault, it has to show up. I can test all the thermostat in one go, but of course testing for continuity and testing for functionality is not the same. Thanks for watching

[@theonlyalexoliveira]

6:30 worst possible visual 😅

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Yeah not sure what happened there. I actually have other videos on the belt installation. Let me know I’ll link it

[@josephrapoza6453]

You don't show how many OHMs on anything. This is useless. Is it suppose to be 0.00 or OL. .

[@appliancerepairshorts]

What are you even talking about? It is good or it is not. Continuity or no continuity. You probably have a broken belt.

[@edwinjlewis7405]

Next time please tell the viewers the name of the parts you are checking and changing.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

Yes I agree. Sorry for the late response. Thermal fuse

[@Thanhnguyen-kg9jd]

What part are you changing . You going too fast seriously your next video slow down . Not every one are pro like you.

[@appliancerepairshorts]

My apologies, appreciate the feedback. That part is called a thermal fuse. It monitors and keep the temperature at a safe level. When it fails, you have a over heating condition. Could be a failure of the cycling thermostat, clogged blower housing,kinked dryer venting or venting to the outside is clogged. Let me know if you have any questions