How to Build a Wardrobe pt.3 : the Summer Suit and the Formal Wear

In this new episode of Sartorial Talks, the third part of our "How to Build a Wardrobe" series, Hugo discusses two niche yet important elements of a gentleman's wardrobe : the summer suit and the formal wear.

[@pete232]

As a teen, I am very fascinated by classic menswear and im really looking forward to building my wardrobe in the near future. Update: I bought my first pair of Allen Edmond's Park Avenues. Second update: Just bought a navy herringbone suit (Napoli) and grey suit (Lazio) from Suitsupply.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

That's a good idea. And the younger you start, the better. Cheers ! Hugo

[@henrykincaid6821]

Agree, Uriel. It's often a tricky balance to pull off, especially when the people you often find yourself surrounded by don't necessarily care for something so timeless or, in their eyes, formal. That being said, the more you learn about the subject of tailoring, the more you understand how to 'pull the look off', and Hugo's work is a fantastic place to do just that.

[@frankcaceres1621]

Uriel Silva I’m surprised you know who Bruce Lee is. The psychology of clothing is important. Pay attention to how people treat you when you’re wearing a nice suit.

[@fredericmoritz3286]

Same here. I‘m 18 years old

[@Mateo-et3wl]

Wait until you're out of high school and totally beyond puberty. No point buying fitted clothing before then

[@keeponsearchingearth1543]

As a man in my mid 50's and discovering my style through classic clothes I really admire and appreciate all that you do Hugo.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Martin for your appreciation. Hugo

[@KoushikMandol]

Not keep gorment🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳🇮🇳⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ king👑👑👑👑👑👑👑 gorment📱

[@bixy5510]

Majority of your viewers including me would be interested to see your wardrobe

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

That's actually a good idea even if I believe a wardrobe is something personal that has to do with your own taste and lifestyle. In other words, my wardrobe shall not be the best example for everybody. But why not. Cheers, Hugo

[@hosoiarchives4858]

@@SARTORIALTALKS why not, indeed

[@ericgrewal]

Sound advice, Mr. Jacomet! I recently started medical school at Mayo Clinic, where we embrace the concept of Mayo Wear-instead of white coats, physicians and medical students are expected to wear suits when attending to patients. The founders of the clinic, Drs. Will & Charlie Mayo, believed that wearing a white coat distanced doctors from their patients, while formal attire would make the patient experience more comfortable and professional. To this day, the only people you’ll see in white coats at Mayo are surgeons who are required to cover their blue scrubs when outside. Just before starting school, I took some inspiration from your book to invest in a few linen suits from SuitSupply, which have been incredibly comfortable despite the hot, humid summers we have here in the Midwest! However, I must admit to breaking one rule of Mayo Wear: Dr. Will never in his life wore a brown suit, enforcing a rule of “no brown before the gown.” I think we can take some liberty and bend this rule now in 2018!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Eric, what an interesting comment! I would love to know more about this initiative. Do you know if some articles have been written on this Mayo Clinic experiment ? Many thanks and Cheers ! Hugo

[@ericgrewal]

Here are a couple short articles I found: hbswk.hbs.edu/archive/clueing-in-customers-why-docs-don-t-wear-white-coats-or-polo-shirts-at-the-mayo-clinic sharing.mayoclinic.org/2009/07/01/mayo-wear/ If you are interested more generally in the history of the Mayo family and clinic, which dates back to the 19th century, I'd recommend the book "The Doctors Mayo."

[@DaDutchGuy95]

I love the way you calmly but enthousiastically explain these things!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you the Dutch Guy! We used to live in Amsterdam for a couple of years with Sonya in 2012 and our daughter (who is now fluent in Dutch) now lives in Hilversum. Cheers, Hugo

[@samon_kurowassan]

I feel so elegant just by watching this 🍷

[@telran_]

I love listening to your explanations, so informative while entertaining at the same time.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you for your encouragements, it means a lot to us. Hugo

[@rastrats]

Now for that ice cream ..lol.

[@ralphwilliams8083]

Greetings Hugo! I've watched all three How to Build a Wardrobe video presentations. I've enjoyed each of them. Elegant men's style is a fascinating subject. I am learning more and more from you, a master teacher. I'm gaining knowledge on my sartorial learning curve on what I want in suits and sport jacket. Thank you, my friend.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks Ralph for your appreciation and support. I'm certainly not a master teacher, but I do my best (with my beloved wife Sonya) to share my experience and knowledge of the sartorial path. Cheers, Hugo

[@charlesbarboza8591]

Hugo, Bravo!!! Your 3 part series on “How to build a wardrobe” is Brilliant. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and Wisdom with us. You sir are a true Gentleman and I appreciate you for taking the time to inform us on the art of Being a well dressed and informed “Gentleman” God Bless You and Those You Love.

[@benstrong3549]

Another great combination of passion and knowledge. Well done Hugo!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Ben. Hugo

[@DixieLiving]

Thank you! Summers in Georgia (USA) are long, humid and Hot! Weather need not compromise a sense of style.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Exactly ! Cheers (from North Georgia), Hugo

[@tokiomitohsaka7770]

I live in a tropical area (35+ degrees with high humidity is at least 2/3 of the days in a year) and most of my suits are summer suits. I also didn’t like linen at first because of the wrinkles, but these days it is the fabric I wear the most, not just for suits, but even more for shirts. Linen shirts are amazing. As for seersucker suits, I think they aren’t breathable enough (the weave is too tight for proper air flow), but it has the advantage of being a very low maintenance fabric, so it might be the most convenient suit to own. I think the most important thing for summer suits is to have no lining (or at least minimal lining). This when paired with a breathable fabric makes my days easier.

[@IsaacSalgado]

This series of building a wardrobe have been excellent. Thank you!

[@wesbao]

What an amazing gift of explaining the fine details of building the gentlemen’s wardrobe. I am slowly building my perfect wardrobe thanks to your guidance and experience of course it’s going to take some time because of the expensive quality of the fabrics but its well worth it. My wife went to school in France for three years and on my visits to her before we where married she admitted to me she was attracted to me because the way I dressed and when she found out that I was an American she was shocked because she never met an American who like to dress and that’s how I got into her good graces. Thank You for your professional tips.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Mike for your lovely story ! You would be surprised to know how many women are ready to renounce to many things (like vacations or even a great car) in "exchange" of a more stylish man. A lot of studies are showing this. Cheers ! Hugo

[@Tupinamba77]

I've only recently found this channel and loved every video I've watched. Sonya's and your mix of knowledge and natural elegance is really fascinating and inspiring. As a Brazilian, the topic of the summer suit and gentleman's clothing appropriate to our hotter climate is of particular interest. Thank you very much and keep up the excellent work! Cheers!

[@juliusvandermerwe4243]

As an architect myself, I find your talks fascinating. In architecture, all our decisions are deeply informed by the rich history of style and technology over the ages. The way you approach the sartorial world is surprisingly similar. The appreciation and understanding of your field's history and artisinal skills that you explain so eloquently has opened my eyes. It has reconfirmed to me that art, fashion & architecture are all linked, and is a way to be part of the modern world, but at the same time keep alive history and skills from our past. Well done, and thank you. Julius

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Julius for your lovely and thought provoking contribution. Charles Baudelaire definition of modernity is a gem : "Modernity is the transient, the fleeting, the contingent; it is one half of art, the other being the eternal and the immovable". Yours, Hugo

[@Mateo-et3wl]

It's unfortunate that your description isn't reflected in the reality of most modern architecture (downright ugly, unhuman, and uncomfortable to use)

[@ellietmaples3577]

Agreed. His answers are full of knowledge, reason and history.

[@farhanblanx]

thanks for ur advice. ive already at the intermediate level as u said, hopefully i can go to the next level. cheerio!!

[@anthonysanni]

The intro music is hypnotic :) Oozing with style and elegance - just like the channel.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you for your appreciation and support. Hugo

[@brendanwasilko2246]

Hugo, I just want to say thank you. You are someone to look up to through your character, passion, faith, and incredible knowledge of fashion. You are a true gentleman in every sense of the word. I just bought a three piece blue suit as my 6th suit from Suit Supply. I am saving up for a pair of black cap toes from cobbler union. Now I will add the silk, linen, and wool suit from the Suit Supply summer collection to the list. (No more 1.5 inch skinny lapels for me.) I will one day buy a bespoke suit from one of your recommended tailors. Thanks for everything. I wish you the best. -Brendan

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you so much Brendan for taking the time to write such a lovely comment. It means a lot to us. Best wishes, Hugo

[@sjoyceboyer4719]

Staying ahead of the haters, thank you innovators of explaining the importance of men's wardrobe. "Innovators, imitators, and the idiots." ~Mark Cuban

[@rastrats]

Indeed I do have a gentleman's wardrobe and more perhaps. Very reassuring.

[@joostijsselmuiden118]

Again a great video Hugo! Thanks for the inspiration and your love to a more elegant world.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

You are more than welcome! Hugo

[@alvarojdn]

I just joined your channel. I am loving this series! Thanks for all this knowledge!!

[@SQ_og]

I wore a medium blue Linen and wool suit tonight. Maybe the most comfortable suit I have ever worn. I also have a black (of course) and a tobacco color. I have learned so much from you. Southern California is super hot and the perfect climate for linen. Solaro is next.

[@gerrygallagher6166]

Fantastic presentation and great topic... summer suits are not a must have in the north of Ireland lol, however this year it has been so hot so had to invest in some linen items as you said, ironed them before ever wear so could not get used to that... thank you so much great video Hugo

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks Gerry ! Cheers, Hugo

[@iahorvath]

Interesting for a lady to know too! I love a well made suit and especially a man in a well made suit. Always wanted to know more about this topic. You have very expressive eyes and are a joy to watch and listen to. Merci M jacomet.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

My pleasure. Hugo

[@llenandotuvaso8311]

Thank you very much to share your knowledge about men's style. It´s important to "gentlemen's in formation" to learn from someone who has certain experience in the learning curve. Your advice is well received in Mexico. Muchas gracias Hugo!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Gracias ! And hello to all our friends and followers in this wonderful country ! Hugo

[@tommasoascari2706]

I absolutely love your videos since you opened my eyes on how beautiful 3 pieces suits are. Hopefully one day I'll be able to buy one from one of the Italian tailors you talk much about, since I live in Italy.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Yes Tommaso, keep three piece a chance ! Abbraccio, Hugo

[@d3badge]

Thank you for the nice tutorial 😁👍🏻. I am from Singapore, 24/7 summer time 😅 I use lightweight 100% Merino Wool 235gms for my summer suits, so far so good still bearable with the heat and humidity in Singapore.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Good choice. I know some mills like Drago in Biella for example are now producing very technical fabrics for hot climates (like their 190gr "BluFeel" bunch, which is anti-sweat and anti-Uv). Interesting times of innovation in this field. Cheers, Hugo

[@Roonzkyyy]

Thank you so much for the recommendations! Here in Australia Summer averages 45C. I couldn't bear to think about wearing a full suit until this video.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Haha, thanks Mitchell! Hugo

[@regisl6848]

Merci pour cette nouvelle vidéo Monsieur JACOMET. Encore un chef-d’œuvre...

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Merci Régis pour votre enthousiasme (même si le mot chef d'oeuvre est sans doute un peu exagéré). Mais merci, ca me touche beaucoup. Hugo

[@Trinkhaus.]

Another awesome video, love and appreciate the quality content this channel puts out

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you so much for your encouragements and appreciation ! Hugo

[@PrincepsComitatus]

Beautiful series.

[@DrawnInk1]

Superb Hugo, excellent information, regards from Wimbledon.

[@the_larsonfamily]

Dad's should be teaching their kids this lesson... Class

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks for your kind comment Nicholas. I don't know if they should, but what I know is that we have an Army of young gentlemen who avidly follow our work here, on our website Parisian Gentleman, on Instagram and in our books also. Best, Hugo

[@ryanmead3939]

Hello Hugo I hope this finds you well ? Once again a fantastic video with some truly invaluable advice, so may i thank you for that sir, it's funny when you mentioned about linnen, i struggle with the creases on my linnen shirts, let alone a suit, but may i say a linnen suit is a fantastic looking suit for the hot periods of the year, all the best, keep up the great work, Your friend Ryan.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks Ryan, and yes once tamed, a linen suit is a fantastic addition to any wardrobe. Cheers, Hugo

[@psilocybemusashi]

I love your wide lapels. so beautiful. they look incredible on you.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks. Wide lapels are my soft spot. Hugo

[@tommasoascari2706]

I was thinking the exact same thing. I just started getting more garments with a wider lapel and I love them

[@fortimeless3299]

Merci Hugo pour toutes vos vidéos qui sont très enrichissantes et instructives. A propos vous parlez un excellent anglais à un point où votre accent français passe inaperçu. Je suis vraiment émerveillé. "L'Homme c'est le style".Citation de Pascal.

[@HLSpence]

Kudos to you guys . . .GREAT content and information! This 3 part series is money!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Many thanks HL. You maybe interested in additional content on our Patreon page here : www.patreon.com/sartorialtalks Cheers! Hugo

[@waltski4375]

Thank you Hugo for the informative video. I suffered in August heat in a worsted wool suit as well. I have avoided linen due to the wrinkles but, if the wrinkles are socially acceptable, it is time to add a linen suit to my wardrobe. I was mildly surprised seersucker is worn in Europe, as I always though of the fabric to be rare outside of the US. Wishing you continued success!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Waltski, you should definitely go for a linen suit. Once the wrinkle issue is tamed, you will discover that a well-cut linen suit is extremely elegant and so comfortable in the summer. And yes seersucker is not unusual in Europe (well, among classic style aficionados I mean).Cheers, Hugo

[@staaswolter641]

I just recently bought a Vintage proper British Tuxedo alomg with all the other elements and all I can say is: its my favorite outfit that is complete. I do have a Vintage White Tie outfit that I got for free and I may complete it for a costume party since that is what I make. White Tie is my favorite dress code.

[@emilrandersen1]

These videos are a gift to mankind. Thank you so much! I was wondering, if at all we might in a future episode take a peek inside your wardrobes?

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks Emil for your kind words. And concerning my wardrobe you can have a sneak peek here : parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/how-i-built-my-wardrobe/ Cheers ! Hugo

[@Vinilo-pl1pz]

Wonderful content, as always. Thank you Mr. Jacomet.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you for your kind words. Hugo

[@davidreed4488]

Just happened to stumble across your channel and really glad I did. I never realised the complexity of the subject, the more I read and listen to on the matter the more interested I become. Thank you for the excellent educational content. If you have the time I hope you could answer a question. What items of clothing do you wear when most casual?

[@hardy2383]

so I realize I did a good job in investing in a green solaro suit, not only for a number of people respond to it, but Mr Hugo refers to in this upload !

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Yes you did a good job indeed ! Cheers, Hugo

[@Gdsm9]

I've really enjoyed your videos so far. Very nice! I think a great idea for a video on a gentleman's wardrobe would be for accessories, such as shoes, tie clips, cufflinks, belts, etc... Questions such as tie clip with a waistcoat or not.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

That's a good idea indeed. Well noted. Thanks ! Hugo

[@CRISNCHIPS12398]

Another great video, I learn a lot from these. All the best from Australia

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you so much ! Hugo

[@Lorax_Tribe]

I still do not have a linen suit, though I have cooler wool suits. Maybe the summer suit is the next thing to get after having the basics. Perhaps it is considered a basic item, Hugo? It is a special feeling to wear that cooler suit, that breathable white dress shirt on a hot summer day, comfortable and dressed well, too.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Yes a linen suit can be considered a basic indeed, depending where you live and the climate. Cheers, Hugo

[@staaswolter641]

Thank you for including Black Tie which is correct in saying Semi-Formal. White Tie or Full Dress is the creme de la creme of a Gentleman's wardrobe and almost extinct sadly. Wish we wore both ensembles more often. White Tie is my favorite outfit as I wear it in my choir but certain details are not as formal as they should be but still very nice to wear.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Tank you dear Staas for your contribution. I agree with you, it's sad we have very few occasions in a lifetime to wear fully formal attires. But times may change who knows ? Hugo

[@ianmichaels6475]

I love your videos. Thanks for the inspiration.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Ian. If you are happy we are happy. Hugo

[@naderelshafei]

hi Hugo, its nice to see you again before sleeping with interesting subject specially in these hot days in Egypt and most of the world! i dont have full linnen suit, but i prefere linnen sport jacket and linnen trousers or jeans, i know its not same thing but still soft, breathable and elegant. Love to you and Sonya from Cairo.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you dear Nader for your interest in our work and your support. Sweet dreams ! Cheers, Hugo

[@zohaibamanzai6475]

Thank you for the guidance!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

You are very welcome. Hugo

[@dbears6]

I love this channel. Great upload.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you for your support. Hugo

[@ryanmurray8185]

Love these talks.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Ryan for your appreciation. Hugo

[@msm2217]

Thank you sir for a very insightful sharing!

[@kikkerman4644]

to remain totally stylish and elegant 👍. i like it .

[@furdiebant]

My favourite KZbin channel. Huge fan of yours.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you so much Bob. It means a lot to us. Hugo

[@shimenga1]

Bravo for another great video

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you so very much for the appreciation. Hugo

[@73m98]

Thank you Monsieur Jacomet. We are in good hands.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you, you are very kind. Hugo

[@emmanuelconte3868]

Bonsoir Monsieur Hugo.trop impatient pour attendre pour la video francaise donc je reagis ici..superbe vidéo.. Merci pour le conseil..bonne suite d'été.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Merci Emmanuel. La version française sera en ligne dicic quelques jours. A vous, Hugo

[@Priyadarshan_Nag]

Love your videos and the effort you put into explaining every little aspect of styling, fashion and tailoring. Btw you’re really a very handsome gentleman and if you were to take my opinion, never cut your hair short. 😊👍🏻

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you for your kind words. And don't worry, I will never cut my hair short ! Hugo

[@hippocratichippo6324]

Bravo! Excellent video!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks ! Hugo

[@bkubwa]

Another fantastic video

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you for your consideration. Hugo

[@timofeys2105]

Hugo. You completely forgot about one of the best tessuto for summer- hopsack!!! Cheers

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

You're right Timofey, Hopsack is another great option, as Fresco is actually. Cheers, Hugo

[@MrKJDeSilva]

Thank you, Hugo, for your suggestions and guidance! Question about a Double Breasted Suit ... an obviously beautiful addition that I look forward to adding to my own Wardrobe, one day. My question is this ... how "versitile" can the Double Breasted Suit be? Obviously, it is perfectly acceptable at the more "well dressed" events, the Theatre, etc ... but, can it be dressed-down a little bit to be more adaptable to a wider variety of occasions?

[@simonmoses4023]

Wonderfully presented Sir!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Simon. Hugo

[@ianflem6489]

I do hope you add more pictures to give us examples....curious about European opinions about style.

[@hermannballesterosv]

Great video.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you Hermann! Hugo

[@hermannballesterosv]

There is a certain dressing stile in America that uses the blue brooks and brothers jacket, or sports jacket as you call it and grey or khaki pants, often associated with american business man. Not so common in Europe, but getting more and more common in Asia and Latin America. I would really like to hear your opinion about that type of garment.

[@zohaibamanzai6475]

It would be great to have a part 4 on how to add shirts and trousers to the wardrobe and possibly match them (colours and patterns), to be worn without a coat.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

There will be a part 4 for sure. Cheers ! Hugo

[@zohaibamanzai6475]

Hugo, Sounds really good. I am excited about it and eager to be educated on it by you. Cheers & Regards, Zohaib

[@juniorunivers9598]

Love your videos, keep up the great work. can you please tell me about the tie you are wearing and where I could get one. Thanks in advance

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Junior, my tie is from the great atelier Calabrese in Naples. You can write to [e-mail] and ask Annalisa Calabrese (with a screen shot of the video) if she still have this model in stock. Hope it helps, Hugo

[@Styyy]

Its would be nice if u show it practically that way its easy to understand and remember .

[@antonioblanco2217]

It is interesting how some fabrics such as solaro and rayadillo (seersucker) leaked out from military application to sartorial use, same as gabardine.

[@adrielrowley]

Fantastic presentation as always, thank you. Creative combination under the subject of occasions, only seen summer and formal in their own individual presentations. Makes more sense in this perspective and approach to building a wardrobe. Can you spell the fabric that is brown with orange flecks? I can't find online.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks Adriel for your appreciation. The fabric is called SOLARO (sorry for my thick French accent !). Yours, Hugo

[@adrielrowley]

Thank you. Actually, was only couple letters off and first time ever had difficulty. To me, the accent is not close to thick, is that my brain just has trouble processing spoken words, I can understand you better than some Americans despite being American. Know you go to a lot of work to create these so a bit uncomfortable critiquing, how about labeling the examples? Cheers, Adriel

[@jojoerasmusnt6458]

Just what you need if you're living in the Philippines.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Probably yes ! Best, Hugo

[@mikereyes9017]

Can you do one on the Southern gentleman and western suits and boots hats ect. thatd be cool

[@oudayalshaikh6646]

Thank you for another great presentation. My question is how many suites/jackets/blazers/sport coats should one have in his wardrobe as a typical number?

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

I think the ideal number maybe 7. 4 business suits (all seasons), one blazer, one winter suit (flannel) and one summer suit (linen) for example. Cheers, Hugo

[@cynicalskeptic]

Thank you Mr Jacomet on this very good video! However you haven't mentioned what dress shirts are suitable for summer? I heard some purists say that short sleave shirts are out if the question for a gentleman - long sleave only. I presume that material should be lite cotton and/or linen? I'm not talking about specific evening wear, where long sleaves are a must but for daily occasions. Thank you for your very informing videos, you have posses great knowledge but are still very humble. Cheers!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks for your kind words. Short sleeve shirts should be, in my opinion, avoided. They are for boys, not for men. Linen shirts or light cotton (Sea Island cotton or Cotton voile) are indeed very good for warm weather. Cheers, Hugo

[@cynicalskeptic]

@@SARTORIALTALKS Thanks again Mr Jacomet, have a nice day!

[@carefullin]

Thanks for this intersante video I hope you can make more videos with more often

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thanks Mattias, we also hope we'll be able to soon produce more videos more often! Cheers, Hugo

[@hermannballesterosv]

There is a certain dressing stile in America that uses the blue brooks and brothers jacket, or sports jacket as you call it and grey or khaki pants, often associated with american business man. Not so common in Europe, but getting more and more common in Asia and Latin America. I would really like to hear your opinion about that type of garment.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Hermann, the outfit you describe is, indeed, very American. It has almost become a "uniform" for the American business man (you should add an open shirt without tie and a pair of Allen Edmonds with wide lasts). Even if a well-cut blazer can be elegant and is very versatile, it will not allow you to step out of the crowd. Dressing like this means stating in the flock. I would rather go for a real suit worn with a tie (producing immediate great dividends). Cheers, Hugo

[@crisyorke1328]

Excellent explanation! I have a Stefano Ricci suit that's very delicate. It's made of wool and silk and the lining is sort of flare out because it's made of silk. It's so sad that it happened! I don't know how to make it less flare

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Hey Cris, I know the factory which is crafting the S. Ricci suits very well and it's a great sartoria. Find a good alteration tailor, and simply ask him to replace the lining (you can find plenty of super nice linings on the market these days). It's easy and not expensive (if you have a good alteration tailor of course). Cheers, Hugo

[@crisyorke1328]

SARTORIAL TALKS Hi Hugo, thank you so much!

[@hussainshorish9751]

Excellent video Mr. Hugo! Really informative. I do have one question. Folks like us who don't have the luxury to get every suit tailored or travel to wonderful places in Europe to buy quality clothing, what would you suggest? Considering a suit at a high-end department store costs between $600-$1500, what should we pay most attention to? Maybe you can do a video on this? Thank you! :)

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Hussain, for thus type of budget you can have access to some very nice suits. May I advise you to avoid high street department stores where the prices are very high ? Where do you live ? Otherwise you should pay attention to : the cut, the cut and the cut (how it fits you). Hugo

[@yobolion20]

Get the Irish Linen in a 13 OZ partially lined! Nice and cool! Actually cooler than wearing shorts and a t-shirt.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

You are absolutely right! Cheers, Hugo

[@MartinLopez-nj3qz]

Thank you so much for your content Hugo! I loveee the color of your suit!!! I saw you replied on another comment that it is a blazon by drapers S150, any chance you can provide the design name or fabric reference number?

[@n.h187]

Hugo do you know where I could get your parisian gentleman re-edition in the UK? I checked out Thames & Hudson but it directed me to Amazon US. Also will you be planning a smaller edition of the Italian gentleman, I own it but find difficult to read outside of my study. Beautiful book nonetheless.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear friend, you can pre-order it here (release date September 13th) : www.amazon.co.uk/Parisian-Gentleman-Hugo-Jacomet/dp/0500293961/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1533757303&sr=1-2&keywords=the+parisian+gentleman For a smaller edition of the Italian Gentleman, you'll have to wait a little bit as the main edition is already currently being re-printed (because it's almost sold out). The compact edition of the Italian Gentleman will for sure be published, but probably next year or even in two years. Cheers ! Hugo

[@neilshah7471]

I don’t even own a suit but I love this shit

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Haha, thanks Neil, and maybe one day, who knows, you'll need to wear a suit. And that day, you'll know what to acquire and how to wear it! Cheers, Hugo

[@danielhakimi]

What about Tweed, Wool Flannel or other winter-specific suits?

[@Konsaliki]

Great video, as always. However: Did you exclude the - in my humble opinion wonderful - fresco fabric/weave on purpose? I recently got my hands on a vintage unlined summer blazer (Brioni), made in that specific way. At first, it felt a little rough to the touch, but it's just so unbelievably airy, that I thought for sure, you would add the fresco to your list. Best regards!

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

You are perfectly right, Fresco is also a great fabric for summer. It's what we call a "dry" wool. It's a high twisted wool that allows an open weave (which makes the Fresco very airy). The "hand" can be a little bit rough, but the thermic properties are extremely good in summer. I could have include it for sure. But you did ! Cheers, hugo

[@Konsaliki]

SARTORIAL TALKS Thanks for the quick and courtly reply! Cheers from Germany

[@MAJmufin]

On the topic of fabrics, It has come to my attention recently that there is a almost silk like cloth made from wood (for example ''Modal''). Apparently it also breaths very well. Do you have any experience and/or knowledge on this? It seems to me that there is quite a textile industry revolution going on at the moment. And ofcourse, Thank you for the fantastic video.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

You're right, the textile industry, and mainly the fabric industry is witnessing a small revolution with a lot of innovations in terms of new materials and techniques. I never heard of this Modal fabric though. I will check this. Cheers, Hugo

[@jeremychong810]

Hi Hugo, what do you think about fresco or dugdale nfw for summer weather?

[@howardkim2067]

Thank you for the wonderful video! I have been following your channel when I can, and in that time, I have made significant changes to my personal wardrobe. Being that I live in central FL, and my job and the nature of it sometimes makes it a great challenge to wear a suit, I have made due with what I can do. I do have a questions? Being that I am in a hot Humid climate all year round, would setting up the basics for a suit wardrobe work with materials normally expected of Summer Suits? I have old suits that I am unable to wear anymore because of significant weight loss, and am in need to re-do my wardrobe. Thanks in advance! ^^v

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Howard, of course if you live in central Florida, your wardrobe has to be adapted to the local weather conditions. The fabric industry has made incredible progresses these last years and it's now possible to find extremely light summer fabric that are as elegant as the "year-round" ones. Good luck and all the best. Hugo

[@siby117]

Hugo, You mentioned at the beginning of the video tropical wool. What is the difference between tropical wool and fresco wool? Best,

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Tropical wool is a generic term to describe light wool or light blends for summer. Fresco is more a "dry" wool with an open weave. Cheers, Hugo

[@mattyjmar10]

I live in Southeast Asia (Indonesia) where we have ONE season: HOT!!! I'm investing heavily in summer suits. If you buy a bespoke three piece suit, make sure to urge your tailor to make the vest also unlined because otherwise you lose all the benefit of the breathable fabric. Wearing a pure linen three piece can feel comfortable, even in ~30C degree weather (provided there is at least a light breeze!)

[@woodrowclose]

Another excellent episode Hugo. I was wondering if you could discuss the 'timeless or ideal' cut of a suit, meaning that many suits now are very close fitting and it could be said that they are fashionable rather than stylish, will this same suit be wearable in 10 years time? Regards, Manzur

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Manzur, that's an excellent question and a very good idea. I have a lot to say on this subject, but it would be too long in this comment thread. Just one idea though : a well-cut bespoke suit (made by a real tailor) will never go out of fashion. After, fitted or more loose (with more drape on the chest) is mainly a matter of taste. I will put this topic on my production list. Cheers, Hugo

[@woodrowclose]

Hi Hugo, I look forward to this episode. Regards, Manzur

[@pyroVoid]

Thank you for these videos, Hugo. What advice do you have for someone who does bodybuilding as a hobby. It is normal for your weight to fluctuate 10-15 lbs in either direction during different periods of training. Would you advise to get a sack suit that has a little more room? (Obviously not as drastic as those from the 50s).

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

I would advise to have three suits : one for the weight gaining period, one for the drying period and one for the intermediate period. Also if your deltoids are very developed, go for unpadded sloppy shoulders (sack suit or better Neapolitan natural shoulder). Cheers, Hugo

[@gucika100]

Monsieur Jacomet, greetings from Georgia! I am so thankful for your videos, the educational information you convey to us, the people who have just opened the doors to Sartorial arts is just impeccable. I might say I fell in love with your green Solaro suit. Just one question, the monk shoes you are wearing in that picture is just out of this world. May you suggest, where one can purchase a pair like those? Thank you so much in advance! one love

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Thank you so much for your kind words. My shoes are from Corthay Paris (MTO, around 1700 euros). I know that Cobbler Union in Atlanta (Ponce City Market) have a similar model (much more affordable around 400$). See here : www.cobbler-union.com/collections/the-monks/products/christopher-cognac-brown-calfskin-single-monk-on-louvre-last I strongly advise you to go there and try them on. Tell Daniel there that Hugo advised you to come. You'll be well received. Cheers, Hugo

[@gucika100]

Thank you so much for such an extensive reply. Now I understand the power of this community. Much love.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

My pleasure. Hugo

[@AcapRoseknightDrummer]

hey hugo, another great video. i have a question. I'm from Malaysia, we have a very hot climate all year round. let's say i'm looking to make a bespoke suit for office work, should I totally 100% ignore the classic worsted wool altogether and just make all formal suit from linen? i was told that this fabric are not supposed to be used for formal suit. what do you think?

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear friend, I think you should go a for a bespoke suit made of a coton/linen/silk blend of a very light weight (220 gr for example). Linen is indeed more casual. Cheers, Hugo

[@pohbem]

Hugo, what do you think about frescos for summer? Especially in the tropics.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Fresco is an excellent option for summer for sure. Personally I prefer the "touch" and the "hand" of a cotton-silk-linen blend (Fresco's is a dry wool with an open weave, so the hand is a little bit rough). Hugo

[@Ms123kill]

Mr. Hugo can you talk about everyday dressing. I am student at a university, I would like to be well dressed but wearing different suits everyday isn't affordable in student life. Thank you.

[@lawrencelao1327]

I should have watched this before buying my suit.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

You'll watch it again before buying your next one ! Hugo

[@user-fq9ox7li3d]

Good Afternoon Hugo Jacomet and Sonya Glyn Nicholson. Hope you are well. I would like to thank you for your videos. Would you be so kind and give me advice on where can I buy really good suits in the UK (not bespoke)? I was buying for over 5 years only Hugo Boss suits and don't really know where to go for a new one. Thank you.

[@SARTORIALTALKS]

Dear Sir, so happy to read you'll stop giving your money to Hugo B. In the UK I think Chester Barrie is a great option (excellent suits and good value for money). Cheers, Hugo

[@Thereisalwaysmore]

Hello Hugo, there are many men who talk about Bespoke or tailored suits. Which I enjoy greatly, but my question is this. Are there any shoemakers who will allow you to submit your request on design and style. If yes I would imagine that the cost of this service would be very high. Also I don't know you if you read your comments from past videos but I think you really need to be at a conference that is held in Atlanta Georgia. the event is titled MENfluential Conference unfortunately 2020 will be its final event. Its a conference of speakers and men who encourage dressing up in suits but not only but its part of a lifestyle that can bring success and confidence.