Saving a Bad Lantern Fount with Caswell Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer

[@TheRunereaper]

Another little gem from your good self Bill. Passing on this invaluable experience is time-consuming and a financially unrewarding labour of love but I'm sure it will save several otherwise unsalvageable treasures from the bin. Thanks for your time and effort and adding to the pool of knowledge. Paul

[@brucekuda6711]

Excellent video!! The importance of keeping internal tubes like snorkles or fuel pick up tubes can not be over stressed --it's critical~~~ also helpful tip I use is on bung holes or fuel ports on CQ type fillers~ I will tightly roll up a paper towel into a tampon and soak in acetone and screw into the port or bung hole~~~ this trick will keep the threads clear- after it sets its easier to get the tampon out than it to rethread the hole to clear Caswel! :-) keeps the Caswell from sticking to your internal threads and making your life miserable--this is particularly helpful if you are addressing a compromised bung as is fairly common with AGMS-- you can upend the fount so the caswell puddles around the bung inside but the tampon will keep you threads clear ! :-)

[@tedboots2785]

Good show as always Bill, and nice save for this old lantern! The tour of your area was a real treat. Beautiful! Thanks

[@billmoody9736]

I watch Bruce and he is extraordinary, This video is a very precise methodology that I believe I can follow exactly and not get in trouble - thanks for all you do.

[@richardcrews4863]

Bill,I use some cheap white rubber stoppers that come in various sizes to plug the fount holes.The kit has ones to fit the top bung,filler and pump.

[@king.coleman]

This kit did not come with any stoppers...just the epoxy and a measuring cup...but that's certainly a good idea.

[@jefferyshoults5000]

Nice informative video. I have an AGM 3708 and two Akron’s I plan on doing this to. Thanks for doing what you always do by going into great detail on how it’s done

[@Dominic.Minischetti]

That was a great tutorial! Thanks!!

[@scottblachly9353]

Great video and great product. In the past i have soldered all the stress cracks. Very time and labor intensive.

[@antiguidadesmetalurgiaealgomai]

Here in my parents we have a glue similar to this one, but if it's an all-iron tank I prefer to solder it and then if it's iron I solder it with a blowtorch and use a brass rod or even easier friend I use the mig process with argon and co2 mixture ;now if it's like the 237, 220 or even the agm ones that crack a lot then the thing gets worse or I disassemble the tank or I tin it inside and then I do the copper and nickel and then I apply this sealant to the tank it's fine 👍👍 

[@highway7562]

Use a funnel made from slick magazine paper to pour directly from the cup, so you don't waste what stays in the syringe.

[@king.coleman]

If there's any waste, it's what's left in the mixing cup. There's nothing left in the syringe but a bit of residue. The point of the syringe is to avoid making a mess getting the stuff into the fount. The epoxy would stick to the funnel and makes another point of waste and potential for making a mess on the fount. I guarantee trying to kludge a funnel out of paper is a sure-fire way to end up with epoxy everywhere you don't want it.

[@Deadcat_.]

@king.coleman Did you ever reach out to Caswell and ask them why the recommendation was "drywall screws" as opposed to something else? I am not certain but it might have to do with the interaction between the Acetone & Black Phosphate. Many of your restoration procedures rely on chemistry that you don't acknowledge in your videos. Maybe you could start by getting that chemistry understanding and then sharing that knowledge. Luv the vids

[@williamfayette8621]

Nice video but you showed measurements on a clear cup which I have but how do you know where to put those lines? Like I want to do bottom and sides how do I measure that out?

[@king.coleman]

Fill a measuring cup with the desired amount, pour it into your disposable cup, and use a permanent marker to make a line.

[@FosterFarmsOk]

It is great stuff but I have had it fail on two different occasions so you still have to be careful when you're running them.

[@king.coleman]

How did it fail? I just don't see this stuff failing...especially not twice for the same person...if mixed and applied correctly. If the surfaces are prepared properly it adheres tenaciously and Caswell says that it can withstand up to 3000 psi.

[@outdoorseyfun9842]

Hello Bill, What is the reason for the stress cracks? Why is it common with those AGM and lanterns? What occurred? What mistake did they make with those lanterns? Is it because the brass was not thick enough ?

[@king.coleman]

I've been told the most likely reason had to do with the manufacturing process and that whatever AGM was doing resulted in the brass getting work-hardened more than it should have.

[@outdoorseyfun9842]

@@king.coleman ok thank you!

[@crazysquirrel9425]

I don't do metric. Hate that system.

[@king.coleman]

You can measure the product in whatever units you choose and it will work just as well.

[@crazysquirrel9425]

@@king.coleman a bit too expensive. Was going to use 2 part JB weld epoxy to fill holes and then use Seal All to coat the inside of the Hurricane Lantern tank. I possibly could braze the lid of a bean can to the bottom and seal it that way too.

[@king.coleman]

Your options with a non-pressurised lantern are greater. You can solder, braze, or use some other sot of epoxy. When it comes to something that holds fuel under pressure, you need to go with something rated for the pressure. I'm still not sure how comfortable I am with Cawell sealant on a gasoline lantern. If it fails, you're in big trouble. The lantern in the video runs on kerosene. A kero leak is rarely catastrophic the way a gasoline leak would be.

[@tedboots2785]

Good show as always Bill, and nice save for this old lantern! The tour of your area was a real treat. Beautiful! Thanks