99 Honda Civic No Spark Diagnosis with a Test Light

[@georgedawsonjr450]

Guys you have got to get the book. His book is full of so much info. And any time I get stuck on something it a great sufferance guide as well... it's made so much a difference with understanding the videos and it's been great for myself and my son to work together. It's just all around the best way to help anyone up there game and make money. Thanks so much Paul danner for everything.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you George! Awesome you are including your son too!

[@louisvillalba7695]

@@ScannerDannerwhat’s the book called? I want to buy

[@ScannerDanner]

​@louisvillalba7695 it is available through my website at www.scannerdanner.com I also offer online training courses as well (called ScannerDanner Premium) ​@@louisvillalba7695

[@fightingfalconfan]

I am finding these video's fascinating and very educational. It's helping me learn electrical diagnosis. Something I am not good at yet. But proud to say I passed my first ASE test about a month ago.

[@ScannerDanner]

Nice man! Keep it up

[@fightingfalconfan]

Thanks man, it's funny; I studied my ass off and at the test center it kept giving me electrical to diagnose. I was doing the A5 test and electrical likes to twist my brain in knots. Maybe watching your video's helped me. But everyone at the shop I work at was shocked I actually passed the test.

[@SWRadioConcepts]

I bought a distributor from Amazon for $75 and solved the problem for my CB7 '92 Accord. I'm a HAM with oscilloscopes and it never occurred to me to use them for this. Great video and subscribed.

[@ptmoy1]

I know this post is very old, but it's still very useful for diagnosing a crank-but-no-start problem on my 1992 Honda Accord that ran fine just last week. I'm trying to translate what's on this video, which has an internal coil to my Accord, which has an external coil. The external coil does not have the "+" and "-" markings on it. There's a 4-prone plug connected to the coil, but only 3 terminals are active. As mentioned, there are 3 wires (BLK/YEL, BLK/WHT, and YEL) connected to the coil. According to the wiring diagram in the Honda Shop Manual, the BLK/YEL wire comes from the ignition switch; the YEL wire goes to the "power" terminal (BLK/YEL) on the igniter; the BLK/WHT wire goes to the "primary output control" terminal (GRN) on the igniter. There's also a YEL/GRN wire on the igniter that connects to the ECU, and a BLU wire on the igniter that goes to the tachometer and other stuff. I did the following test: 1) With ignition ON and all wires connected to both the coil and igniter, I measured around 12V steady on both the BLK/YEL and GRN wires on the igniter. 2) While cracking, the GRN wire still measured 12V steady (i.e., no flickering). 3) I disconnected the GRN wire from the igniter, then hooked the test light clip to battery "+" terminal, and put the probe on the igniter terminal where the GRN wire had been plugged in. There's no flickering when the engine's cranked. 4) I completely disconnected the coil from the engine and measured resistance between various terminals according to instructions in the repair manual. The resistance values do not meet spec. Based on these tests, I'm concluding both the igniter and coil are bad. Did I do the tests (as described by ScannerDanner in the video) correctly for my car, and is my conclusion correct? Please help.

[@ptmoy1]

Just wanted to post a follow-up. Problem solved. I replaced both the igniter & coil, and the engine fired right up. I tried test 3 above with the new components; it passed.

[@darkillusion2070]

​@ptmoy1 did you car suddenly stop running?

[@stanskubis7864]

Hi Paul, thanks to your excellent videos & book, I have gone from a complete dunce with engine performance issues to having a working knowledge on engines plus testing techniques using basic equipment for a diy'r

[@50sKid]

Really great video, man. Bringing your style of diagnostics to the DIY community is a great thing.

[@carlomango407]

Excellent video. Thank you.. you helped me determined why my 88 Honda Civic would crank but won't start. it was the ignition coil...however, I decided to replace the whole distributor instead and I diagnosed this with a simple test light. thank you...

[@DJV94022]

Good

[@wyattoneable]

Those steps were easy to understand and well presented Thanks again Paul. Love the scope!

[@phatpac5]

I'm getting a 88 crx in a couple weeks. Guy say coil my be bad. This will definitely help me out. Thanks SD

[@DJV94022]

Was that it or what else you did ?

[@phatpac5]

@@DJV94022 poured some gas in and made the discovery there was no gas tank 🤣

[@heyitschinoable]

Scanner Danner to the rescue again. Used all your steps and found my ignition coil/tower was bad. Helped me fix my brother in laws car. Thanks a million!!

[@baxrok2.]

Great example of using the test light and the benefits of a scope regardless of it's level of sophistication or price point. Thanks!

[@andrewwilson8317]

This is why my power probe 4 is never not by my side! Solid diagnostic logic and theory mate. My preference is to check for fuel faults then ignition faults.

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

Logic and unsderstanding the best tools in the box, in truth the only tools that are always needed.

[@andrewwilson8317]

I have lost count of the amount of times I have had people tell me what they thought was wrong only to find informed and knowledgable analysis proves the said part could not be the source of the problem. Important to never overlook first principle observations before diving in with the computer.

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

I know what you mean the one make car forums are a major cause of bad diagnosis, there is good information on them but too few people filter the good from the ramdon.

[@keithfisher6024]

hey man just wanted to say thanks a couple of your videos about the honda accord just got me out of a real jam i was in

[@ScannerDanner]

glad to help!

[@fstarockaburns425]

hey man dude ur vids are awesome.. i own a small marine repair shop and just hit a my first brick wall with a no start situation on a early 90s delco EST system on a 454 marine efi engine (vortec gen 6), ran fine for 2-3 days on stand, came in 4th day, powered on, did sth for 5 minutes and the coil was SMOKING. Nothing else looked bad- tested pickup (ohms and short to ground test), tested with 3 icms, more work to do but i am learning alot just seeing you say the same thing over and over and slowly im forming the picture- sweet man thanks for helping us noobs out with this stuff-

[@ScannerDanner]

thank you so much! This video may help you a bit too kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZ-rk5aqh9ysr9U kzbin.info/www/bejne/b4acZWWrfLmNnJI And then this GM distributor design no spark video kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3Wum2RvfdObmpI

[@SocalMarineUSA]

@@ScannerDanner Hey I really appreciate replying man, much appreciated- your videos are real helpful. Found a pinched grey tach wire that was shorting the primary (ouch smokebomb!) - ill be looking at getting your book too- greta help man thanks again!

[@ScannerDanner]

@@SocalMarineUSA heck yeah man, nice find!! What led you in that direction? Coil negative would have been grounded constantly. Using my test light methods, with light connected to ground, you would have noticed that coil negative was not lit up like it should have been. Then to keep the coil from frying again during the rest if the tests, I would have unplugged it, and switched my test light to battery positive and connected that to the disconnected coil negative wire. Light would be lit constantly. Then I would have unplugged the ICM to confirm light was still lit, confirming short to ground on the coil negative circuit which would have led directly to what you found. Is that what you did?

[@SocalMarineUSA]

@@ScannerDanner hey - so i was working on a marine variation, why they have a loose grey tack wire is beyond me, when there is already one in the main loom to the front - the bastard got pinched between block and a bracket.. it changed colors too which is just plain stupid on any marine engine.. I did use a GTC505 to confirm zero spark, as i wasnt 100% sure how your tests would reveal my exact issues - by not seeing it spark a certain way would mean I have seen it spark the right way before lol .. I eventually figured what the white wires was by opening the loom and found it was grounded which was a real fluke-

[@mckoylach1622]

Thanks Danner, for the elaborated diagnostic procedures, it helps a lot

[@edgarcastaneda9086]

gran video como siempre señor danner, i'm a DIY so i bought the uscope a time ago 'cause was the only affordable to me, and it helped me to diagnose some misfire on my car, specially with the injectors and spark plugs under the manifold and the amp probe great feature, thanks mr danner for sharing your experience. hope some day you make a video with the uscope on a O2 sensor issue

[@whitetiger8652]

Nice job explaining your diagnosis with the test light as well as working with the U-Sccope. Thanks Paul!

[@ScannerDanner]

You will like the one coming up in a few minutes. I am featuring the uScope with my class at RTC. If your a premium subscriber, you've seen it before. Thanks!

[@2Frames-x88]

Fixed my Prelude using this method, thank you!

[@undrgroundperformance]

Bro you're the goat in this industry.

[@motorcyclesandridingfree2899]

Great Video good to see the uscope in use. I may need to pick one of them up for on the road diagnostic calls.

[@JoseCruz-wd1pb]

Great video you really helped me out with my 99 civic got it running because of the video 👍 (used the test light)

[@ScannerDanner]

Sweet! Nice job my friend.

[@reza_dc2]

what was wrong with it?

[@electrojets]

These videos are like having your mechanic older brother show you how to do shit. Awesome 10/10 keep em coming!

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you!

[@Trumpsterfire101]

Changed the distributor and rotor yesterday. Very very simple, right? Yup. I have done it on many vehicles over the years but once done The car (1996 Civic CX) would not start. It would crank over but not start. It is my assumption that when I had to lightly crank it to expose the rotor screw, I wrecked the coil. I will use this vid and my test light to sus it out. My son will be crank man as it is his $500 Civic.

[@benbrower2197]

Nice video.. Would like to see more trouble shooting with basic tools. Like the light and voltage/ohm meter.. I do realize the scoops are awesome.. But I think your skilled enough to use the basic equipment more Paul. Again great Video as always bro..

[@ScannerDanner]

I have a ton of videos like this Ben! Thanks

[@billnatan536]

Brilliant, love this video clip, really helpful. Thanks a million for posting.

[@ADRIAN-uy1ej]

Video cleared up a lot with the simple light teat

[@louiemunoz2753]

Always a great training session with your videos Paul Danner God bless you, 🙏🙏🙏

[@seanmccarthy7760]

i just saw it below ! Thanks.

[@stpphone5074]

Old thread I know, but at 9:00 you touch the igniter and it pulses. What do you do when it does pulsate? It's dead no light. Same set up one the yellow green wire into distributor and nothing either.

[@ScannerDanner]

What have you done with it so far?

[@stpphone5074]

@@ScannerDanner 2000 crv 2.0L crank, no spark. No spark on any wire, distributor cap or coil tower. Test light from grd shows power on + and - connection of coil. But no flashing light. Isolated coil, like you suggest, with pos batt test lite connection get nothing from ignitor coil post(all this as cranking ) also did positive connection to batt and test yellow green wire at distributor input wires, nothing at all.

[@ScannerDanner]

@@stpphone5074 do you have injector pulse?

[@stpphone5074]

@@ScannerDanner have not probed it. But hear fuel pump and smell gas during cranking. Was trying to establish spark before looking into gas.

[@ScannerDanner]

@@stpphone5074 just wanted to he sure you're getting your distributor input signals to and from the computer. Definitely still focused on the no spark, this just gives us good direction. If you smell gas, that is a pretty good indicator. If you can't trigger that igniter, it could be: 1. A shorted ignition coil 2. A bad igniter 3. Wrong test light being used or not done properly 4. Wiring problem to the coil or igniter

[@1mouse3]

just for reference to time these. there is a blue lead that has to be jumpered around the passenger kick panel, then you can set the crank mark.

[@jtnm1746]

Hey Paul awesome video again...and a very nice toy,the scope..now I want one...thanks again paul..

[@seanmccarthy7760]

Cant find a test light like yours. What model and where did you buy it ? Also you are a great teacher and keep up the good work !

[@paulfiebke3909]

Keep up the good work, and God bless you and your faimly

[@SteveRobReviews]

Nice one buddy that U Scope is awesome. 👍👍

[@andrewwmacfadyen6958]

It is a very handy tool that will take you along way without spending oodles of cash. The AES-Wave software (strictly speaking the firmware) makes a very good little bit of hardware into a truly great tool. The basic Chineses Oscilloscope it is based is just about unuseable without upgraded firmware. In terms of bang for your buck it is great value. You can buy the basic version and add accesories as you go along.

[@Gumorisco11]

Thank you so much for this video... i have a 1998 honda civic DX and one day i was coming back from the store my battery light came on so maybe i thought it was my alternator so I replaced it but still no crank.. the motor would just rotate but didnt start then i changed my battery to a new one but still doing the same thing... so today i changed my fuel filter thought it was clogged up but that didnt help.. at all i thought maybe my timing belt had jumped a teeth or ripped off.. so my last guess will be my ignition coil that gaved out so this video really helped me since u did all those tests but didnt do the test on the distributor.. since mine is having the same problem wont crank then definitely its my ignition coil so now ill buy a new one and replace it see if that will make it crank

[@ScannerDanner]

Did you fix it?

[@Gumorisco11]

@@ScannerDanner not yet bro ive done everything even bought a new starter but my guess is that my timing belt ripped thats the only thing that comes to mind

[@kevinjoe4388]

Great examples. Impressive knowledge of diagnostic techniques

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks!

[@chriscanty8214]

good video I like my uscope thanks for helping us learn your a great teacher

[@jimbola77]

your boy going to be an excellent mechanic!!!!!

[@stevepalmer4072]

Excellent instruction as always.

[@rrmech11]

Prop's on the uScope Paul Great vid

[@jcruz7611]

I am having the same problem with my 1996 honda....thanks for the help ☺️

[@mrghiax]

Great video Paul. Certainly cleared a few things for me using my Uscope. Thanks for the upload.

[@julianmontez7230]

Ttytttttttt the the t5t5t5

[@SchrodingersBox]

Had to get a dose of scannerdanner! Clever approach with just test light !

[@ScannerDanner]

+Schrodingers Box thanks Matt! How's the new job treating you?

[@SchrodingersBox]

ScannerDanner hahahaha... not well, my friend. not well. Travel all the time and work day and night. Insanely good money though, but in exchange for my life. This video is the first automotive KZbin video I have watched in 5 months now, but man it felt like therapy!!!

[@MrTakeOne]

@@SchrodingersBox that’s why u don’t work until your dead you work until your plan comes Successful !

[@sirkobstv3785]

@@SchrodingersBox both of you guys are great . im watching both of your videos.. thank you so much

[@flexibleaspect]

23:08 Spark from a good coil can jump over a rather large air gap. I have a crank no-start situation and my coil can only show a spark if my test light is basically touching the metal coil on the ignition coil. Looks like I'll have to order a new coil. 26:57 Good and bad coil wave forms. 28:34 Ignition coil resistance test (with TEC coil specs: Primary=0.63 - 0.77 ohms; Secondary=12.8 - 19.2 kohms).

[@flexibleaspect]

I got a new $15 ignition coil from Amazon just to see if it would fix the issue... and it did! I was surprised that when I tested the resistances of the old ignition coil, they were within spec: primary=0.7 ohm; secondary=16.17 kohm. So the failure must only show up under load. The new coil had the following resistances: primary=0.5-0.7 ohm; secondary=15.49 kohm. I'll get a more expensive coil and put that in; OEM is $108 and NKG is $70... not sure which I'll go with yet. I'll keep the cheap one as a backup.

[@ooulalah4333]

@@flexibleaspect I've seen other techs say exactly that. You can get good resistance reads on a bad coil and those out of spec ohms are prob only detectable under load. My rotor has no set screw and doesn't want to come off to access wiring to use test light:(

[@flexibleaspect]

@@ooulalah4333 You can't see a screw on the rotor even after viewing it from all angles? Very strange. I would think you could just pull it off in that case...

[@jimbola77]

thank you scanner danner for sharing the excellent video!!!!!

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks for watching!

[@sinnieleeonUtube]

The ignitor and the ignition coil are both parts of the distributor. Most video I saw so far, people just change the distributor. I think they cost almost as much as the distributor itself?

[@ScannerDanner]

Regardless of the cost of the reman distributor vs fixing what's broken inside, the important part was understanding how to troubleshoot this as the techniques apply to everything!

[@mrsandwich3350]

Hello, I did the positive battery side to the negative side of igniter (yellow wire black stripe) and even turning over i get no light. I replaced the igniter and still no light can you help? Thanks! 2001 accord Ex 2.3,

[@abdouallahuniverse5689]

Thanks man for that, i hade spark plug tester and spark plug wires tester bought them for the 96 jeep grand cherokee, and now they are useless for 99 honda crv the tester cant reach the sparg plug because theyr too deep inside, and the qires tester barelly showing the flashing light at night, ofcourse you cant see it at day time.

[@andrewwilson8317]

I have had a couple of ignition amplifier modules fail and cause similar faults. Really got to pay close attention to scope display.

[@2barllbartwobar1v1erisback6]

I replaced my ignition coil and afterwards, my car finally turned on. Thankyou. Check engine light has now come on and since a 93, I don’t have obd plugin. Any checklist to why I now have a check engine light? Thankyou

[@bartojoe]

I need help. My negative on the coil is pulsing but I don't have electricity on the positive. What could it be?

[@vodkhagalang]

does the ect sensor on civic also have connection when the engine crank but doesnt want to start

[@jayfajardo9836]

Hello. I have 2001 civic sir b16 engine..after i replced sparkplugs.engine wont start and no spark..i replaced now distributor assembly but still wont start.. What is the possible cause..thanks

[@johnmckamy6398]

I have a 99 civic ex and when the coil went out, It started shooting thru the top of the coil to that gold bracket or cover there. kinda looks like that one has a hot spot on the top of that coil too.

[@pro-techautosolutions2722]

hows it paul, thanks for the vid! i wanted to let others know about one "variable" . i ran into an issue where i had control on the negative side of the ignition coil. test light would blink, ignition coil current ramps ok, but still no spark out of ignition coil! At 8:18, you disconnected the ground on the igniter. and put your test light to positive to check output on icm, how ever in my case, when i did that my test light would stay on. indicating a short internally of the icm? replacing the icm was the fix in my case. could you explain why id have a ground coming out of icm constantly on that terminal at 8:18. thanks

[@SileDevil]

is it possible to check the ignition coil by looking if it has spark at the end of the coil? i dont have a test light nor a multimeter

[@increditec]

This was amazingly helpful. THANK YOU!!!

[@jesuslopez-ow3qe]

I did everything you did and I’m not getting power to my injectors wen I crank it and I have no spark I’m getting power to the coil but not to the igniter does that mean is my ECU?

[@ScannerDanner]

With the key on, measure the TPS or MAP sensor for a 5v reference and tell me what you see. One of the 3 wires on each sensor should read a constant 5 with the key on

[@maleko_1237]

I only have a test light. I’m testing my ignition coil for spark but no spark comes out my light flickers when I have it on the wire. I’ve used my volt meter to read if there’s volts but no read just 0’s. Do you have any suggestions?

[@ScannerDanner]

what does coil + look like compared to coil - ? (during cranking)

[@bundylovess]

Top video Paul big thumbs up

[@ScannerDanner]

Thanks allan

[@nancylewis7142]

Thank you for this video SD.

[@ronalrojas5592]

saludos desde venezuela, y no entiendo el ingles, pero me sirvio visualmente tu video. fuera bueno que lo tradujeras al español, Dios te bendiga y gracias por compartir tus conocimientos

[@randytabor7069]

So basically when u got no spark off the coil when it cranked tells you? And I'm understanding that the light shouldn't flicker?

[@ScannerDanner]

It should flicker, flicker shows control is there, but its not a foolproof test, so I continued and answered why, with the amp probe

[@michaelcortes4331]

I notice you check injector pulse with the connector unplug. Can it be done with the connector plug in. With the test light connected to battery positive.

[@ScannerDanner]

It can be done plugged in too, but some test lights will carry enough current to energize the injector, which is why i do it unplugged and yes, connected to battery positive with the test light.

[@charlieb.8441]

thanks Danner,Will check it out.Pressure test at the rail first.But to confess,never put a fuel filter in it! With 160,000 on the poor thing!

[@tommyjalapeno9169]

unable to show primary coil negative voltage waveform on this model and if had low amp on current ramp waveform can you verify good ground during coil saturation by igniter on the waveform using wyse probe or secondary pickup?

[@ScannerDanner]

just the amperage waveform alone will guide you with that. Watch this one, I think it will help answer your question kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6DSlXyMfMx6r9k

[@Robinhood179]

So if Im getting spark both at the spark plug and the coil, igniter also good and pulsing but getting no light when touching the negative side of the coil?

[@ScannerDanner]

If you have good spark why are you even testing coil negative? You are not testing it correctly if you have good spark.

[@Robinhood179]

96 Civic wont start. Seems to be getting good spark and gas. Was just wondering why when I touched the negetive that no light came up like yours did?

[@JuanPablo-xw5bj]

You are the man Paul !!

[@nunu4126]

Good job again good teacher thank you for sharing such informative video.

[@littlebeargaming8267]

Nice . Hopefully, one day, you will post a video on how to install a distributor and time it.

[@ScannerDanner]

I have one on a Ford. I think it's "ScannerDanner gets his but kicked by an 88 f150"

[@ozzstars_cars]

That little pocket scope works pretty decent.

[@ScannerDanner]

It does bro and thanks for the Ozzstar stickers!

[@ozzstars_cars]

Your welcome. Thank you man for all the awesome videos you make!! I appreciate the Facebook shout out!

[@antoniobarber8650]

Probably late to comment but I’m dealing with the same car similar situation. I have injector pulse and spark but when I take the wire off the igniter like you do it doesn’t pulse. It pulses when I reconnect it. Can an igniter be bad and still have spark. From what I’ve researched the distributor has 3 sensors built into it. Ckp sensor a cylinder position sensor? And some other sensor.

[@ScannerDanner]

If the spark is weak, yes, an ignitor failing can do that. How far does the spark jump? It should jump a 1" gap.

[@ScannerDanner]

Check out this one that had weak spark from a bad igniter kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6DSlXyMfMx6r9k

[@antoniobarber8650]

@@ScannerDanner I’ll have to double check all my test again and get back to you. I ordered a reman distributor just in case. The car had one installed at one point. All I know about the car is that in ran when parked supposedly. She didn’t know it didn’t start.

[@antoniobarber8650]

@@ScannerDanner got it running. whoever worked on the car before me installed the wrong spark plug wires. I bought new ones and compared the new and old and the old were a good half inch shorter.

[@mairitah1]

MY 2001 ACURA INTEGRA HAVE SPARK ON COIL BUT NOT ON THE WIRES REPLASED CAP N ROTOR STILL NOTING WHAT CAN IT BE? THANKS

[@ScannerDanner]

how far does the spark jump from the coil?

[@dbdb4274]

What would I be looking for if I have no power at the wires when I open the distribtor cap the yellow and black has no power at all

[@ScannerDanner]

I need to know year, make, model and engine size. Thanks!

[@charlieb.8441]

Hi Scanner,any clue 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0/242cu.in long crank time like 7-10 sec. I know that's not long but never did it b4.good comp. all six holes new cap rotor wires plugs. What's a good direction to look at first? No check engine light.

[@ScannerDanner]

Fuel pressure

[@mrsemifixit]

I have a 98 civic that’s starting to slightly misfire at idle when the engine is warm (mainly after driving on highway) no codes or anything. Are coils known for failing when hot or possible something else? Thanks

[@ScannerDanner]

Idle only? Do a valve adjustment on that engine before you do anything else!

[@mrsemifixit]

@@ScannerDanner Yes idle and very low rpm acceleration. Again it’s not consistent and sometimes never does it for days. Mainly can be reproduced if driven for a long time

[@emceecoldharted2419]

How can you tell that wave form is a shorted secondary and not a shorted primary? Wouldn’t a shorted primary cause a faster current ramp too?

[@ScannerDanner]

shorted primary will be a completely straight up line and may even resemble a square wave pattern. In other words no ramping affect at all.

[@emceecoldharted2419]

ScannerDanner ah ok, thanks

[@everardocamacho5063]

great video Paul, cheers

[@BrandonF601]

Damn i love these videos. And i want a uscope, my verus is like 20lbs. Thanks Paul.

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you!

[@nathanridola8439]

What does it mean if the positive and negative ignition coil screws don't light up prior to cranking the engine?

[@ScannerDanner]

as long as they light during cranking you are good. This is a design variation (Chrysler/Jeep in particular will act this way and some other Euro systems)

[@nathanridola8439]

@@ScannerDanner Awesome, Thank you very much. I thought that there would've been a problem if they didn't light up prior to cranking. I'll have to check it out

[@ScannerDanner]

@@nathanridola8439 it will, but only during the initial key on, and then it shuts power back off until the ECM receives an rpm signal. The reason being, the fuel pump is run on the same circuit, so they don't want the fuel pump running without the engine running. And the initial key on power is a prime for the pump

[@nathanridola8439]

@@ScannerDanner Oh okay. So I just tested it and only the negative screw is turning on and flickering. Does that mean that the issue is the ignition coil or the igniter?

[@supabiscuit]

Saved and subd. Great video

[@IsshmanGarcia]

Paul, @ 24:50..I'm not sure, but what I think you really want to be able to do is instead of going into the trigger menu is to go into the Horizontal menu and select "Horz Pos". That will make a small yellow rectangle at the bottom middle of the screen, which you will be able to move the position of your event either left or right in fine increments...It is better than the 2 positions the trigger menu "Tr Hpos" has to offer- Better control.

[@TheMark9013]

what if the coil and the icm test good? what then as well as all of the fuses. gotta 94 delsol d15b17 just randomly died on me at a stop sign. new cap and coil pack checked all of the fuses and had the icm checks at the parts store

[@ScannerDanner]

Assuming you have no spark. Cam and crank signals need to be verified as well as the computer control signal to the icm

[@EJ_173]

Danner i have a question brother, i didn't have any signal at the injector socket, what does that mean?

[@IsshmanGarcia]

great video Paul. If you could, while you revamp the website- could you group all the videos that you use the uScope together...for us poor DIYers that use that great little scope. I know you left links in description, but I'm referring to the new site.

[@ScannerDanner]

I'll be doing all of the lecture videos first. Then I will begin on the case study videos. While you're waiting, use the search feature when you are looking at my video list. Type in uScope and there you will see them all.

[@kennedywong9854]

Can I jump starter with wire hook up to battery positive and check for spark while ignition turn on?

[@ScannerDanner]

Only on some cars, never systems need to see signals from the ignition switch. Also there is a major safety issue with manual transmissions or automatic transmissions left in gear. Just wanted to remind you.

[@td05291]

During the injector tests mine just stayed on and didn’t flicker/pulse

[@ScannerDanner]

And you are also missing spark?

[@joshclark6101]

Does anybody know why there is two cam signals and one crank signal so three total. Does anybody know why that is. I appreciate the help thank you

[@Out-Cast75]

My 00 Honda civic just did this very thing yesterday it's doing exactly what the one in this video is doing so is it most likely the distributor or spark plug cables?

[@single_cam9199]

How do you test the cyp, cylinder sensor self diagnostic code 9

[@ScannerDanner]

ignition inputs playlist kzbin.info/aero/PLAFYVCyenqcqEN41aYznWn9Nfhy1PiMjo

[@RadialPen6262]

Mr. D, where do I go next in a diag if I have pressure at the rail, injectors are firing, but no spark at coil, or no ground pulse from igniter to coil.

[@babychristian1988]

Do u happen to know what else to check I’ve checked spark timing fuel it’s. On a 2000 explorer 4.0l sohc I’m wondering if the pats isn’t killing stuff after it try’s to fire

[@ScannerDanner]

There would be a trouble code for the anti-theft system if that is what is happening.

[@babychristian1988]

Only code to come up was b1845

[@ScannerDanner]

And what is b1845?

[@babychristian1988]

ScannerDanner it ignition tamper circuit failure

[@babychristian1988]

ScannerDanner only thing I could think of is it thinks it’s being stolen and won’t let it start up

[@ellyaudra3856]

Very good explain... thx you alot.. this vey help me alot.. thx u

[@Geekdiymechanic]

Do you think the u in uScope could cleverly means micro? Did they name their cool device micro-scope? You know for being a small o-scope.

[@btcautomotivetech2089]

How I do a test light at the primary coil wires....I put my test light alligator on positive side of coil and the test light probe on negative side of coil. If the light flashes while cranking I verified positive and negative at same time. Again, if you hook your test light alligator to POSITIVE, then you don't have to watch for an elusive "flicker" on the negative side of the coil. If it flashes at all during cranking, you have verified the igniter is grounding the coil.

[@ScannerDanner]

It's hard enough to get to coil negative by itself let alone the positive and negative at the same time.

[@murlecampbell8360]

Paul, I just got a picoscope 4425 and am new at it. Could you tell me why my "zero" (or baseline) jumps up and down during my coil current ramp test while engine is running. The ramps are fine, but just the zero line (with ramps on it) are jumping up and down. Thanks.....

[@renegarcia9579]

Scanner danner what is the part# for the test light the you use in this video thank you

[@Mrzizzy69]

Hi, I'm stuck. I have a 2000 Civic EX. I was bleeding the coolant lines and the car was running great and just idling. Then it died just like that. It won't re-start. Compression is good. No spark to any of the 4 wires. I was following the video and when I probed the fuel injector connectors (like you did around the 2 minute mark) 2 things happened. 1) no pulsing on the brown wire and 2) Solid light on the other wire with ignition on and not cranking AND when I touch the probe it deactivates the neutral safety switch?!?!!? Also no pulse on the ignitor output. When I probed the light was connected to battery + and I did check to make sure it was working correctly. Any suggestions what to do next? It seems so bizarre to me.

[@ScannerDanner]

With the key on, do you have 5 volts to one of the wires on your TPS or MAP sensor?

[@Mrzizzy69]

Thanks for the reply. As it turns out I'm an idiot. I had pulled the fuel pump fuse to avoid flooding it while cranking. When I replaced the fuse the problem resolved. As it turns out it was a bad coil. Thanks again for taking the time to reply. Your video saved my ass.

[@javierlimon1391]

Hey I know this video is a bit old but I ran in to this same problem, I saw that you did a spark test and injector test, I don’t get any current in either one so I’m stuck there do you have any suggestions plz anything helps

[@darkillusion2070]

What was it?

[@codiekennedy8046]

Today my civic shut off going down the road. I thought fuel pump because I couldn't hear it, took the fuel pump out and benchtested it and it spun fine. Checked for spark by laying the spark plug on the engine block and looking for spark while a friend turned it over and didn't see anything. Took the cap off and using a harbor freight multimeter the primary was 0.3 and secondary 11.8 online says should be .6-.8 primary and 13-19 secondary. I did some light tests on the coil, on terminal a to ground it lit and flickered on turning over as well as terminal b same thing. On the spring turning over it flashed red and green over and over. Any ideas?

[@praxisnets7199]

how did it end... Cos I am having similar issues

[@AbisGambino623]

Bad ignitor