Scanning Featureless Objects

[@degeneraturat]

Very informative,. Just one point here. Be very careful with sprays, always make test before covering the whole, sometimes very expensive items. I had one chalk in spray that made some plastic elements washed and faded, even after immediately clean. Idea with brush and powder is genius. I'm going to test that one.

[@ErikChristensensScanSpace]

this is a great point, thanks for bringing it up.

[@TqSNv9R0iG5Ckxew]

​@@ErikChristensensScanSpace I haven't tried it yet, but I want to try mixing white talc powder with black pepper for a random black and white high-contrast coating. I was thinking about applying it in a spray bottle filled with something that evaporates quickly like alcohol, but the safety part scares me a little. I'm guessing that if it works, the liquid would evaporate and purposely leave a residue behind. I'm probably the first person on the planet who has ever tried to purposely create a residue, so google hasn't been very helpful. I also purchased (but haven't tried) a skincare product called lanolin which is also known as wool wax. It's VERY sticky like axle grease but a few photogrammetry people seem to like it. The NextEngine 3D scanner company recommends it in their documentation and recommend applying with a Kabuki brush like the makeup artists use. I purchased a retractable Kabuki brush from Amazon for about $6 and it's nice. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MX89Y8/ My plan is to use it to make the powder stick, but after watching your video I might just skip it and apply the powder directly. Your brush flicking technique is awesome! I'm adding that to my workflow! I'm also going to experiment with some washable Crayola finger paint!

[@ErikChristensensScanSpace]

So I didn't cover it in this video, but the spray bottle + 100% isopropyl and talc combo works very well, Leaves a awseome coating behind. The annoying part is that the isopropyl dissolved the plastic O rings inside all of my spray bottles and I only just found out before shooting this video.... You need to be very careful though as the isopropyl can damage the surface you are coating, so test before application ;)

[@bestboy007]

just use pol. filter right?

[@Outdoorshuntingshooting]

@@bestboy007 id only it was that easy, circ pol helps but does not give results on all surfaces, i use linear polarised lighting and a circ pol on the lens, requires a patience in a controlled light environment.

[@3DJapan]

I've been known to put random dots on with a dry erase marker so it will easily wipe off and if they're small enough they can be easily removed from the texture in Photoshop.

[@oldy0e]

We've been using the technique with featureless objects by making dots of contrast on them to make software catch details, but this one with dust, wow, made me rethink the whole process. Thank you so much for sharing this!

[@chokeslam1996]

Hi Erik! Great video and extremely informative! I’m brand new to photogrammetry and I was wondering does the powder affect the texture of the mesh? For example the Lego piece, would you be able to make a tutorial on how to add color to the mesh without the powder present? Hope that makes sense? Fantastic video! Please keep up the great work!

[@GrzegorzBaranArt]

Super big thanks for another very nice and informative video Erik. I hope everyone appreciate the work you put into it with a big thumbs up :). Thanks for sharing and looking forward to the next one :). Cheers!

[@thebilgekhan]

You have given very precious infos that literally save life. Thanks a lot for your effort and sharing !

[@lipsach]

Good technique. The issue I see here is that you probably can't turn the scanned object sideways to photograph the bottom of it, cos the dust particles would probably move touching it during the proces.

[@bruhhbruhh]

How to apply the textures?

[@sierraecho884]

Generally well done but you left out one particular solution "noise pattern projection" simply speaking you use a DLP projection and project a grainy irregular pattern or the surface you want to scan. It does not always work like with the light bulb but it works on some surfaces. I really would like to see how this method helps generating more feature points. The biggest advantage is there is no cleanup and no altering of the surface whatsoever.

[@ConradSly]

great video on the dusting approach! i was shocked by the result of the transparent glasses for sure. But ultimately you could get an even better result on those glasses if you just committed to painting them entirely with no need for powder. I was hoping there might be some trick to getting the albedo, but I see that this method is purely to get the best possible shape, so that and artist can then color the result later. It was awesome to see the entire truck covered in powder haha! I've experimented with coating objects with matte varnish and adding some feature points that can be easily smoothed, removed, or clone stamped out, and I think it's a more viable solution option than the powder, which is a pain to apply and clean up, and destroys the albedo.

[@AClarke2007]

A quick search for common sublimating (evaporating) materials resulted in Moth Balls and Iodine, much cheaper alternatives to the expensive sprays.

[@marty1780]

Thank you Erik! These videos are an excellent resource.

[@julianforthun]

Great video! How does this work with the textures though? Do you scan it with and without the dust and somehow add the textures to the mesh from the photos with dust on the object or what?

[@KennyRasschaert]

Thanks for another great video Erik. I've tried applying these tips, as well as your tips in your "scanning in the void" video. I run into trouble when I try to rotate the powdered object on its side to get pictures of the top and bottom (as you did with the apple). Handling the object invariably disturbs the powdered finish and changes the features. I've been racking my brain on how to get pictures from all sides when using powder. For my next attempt I might mask off two opposing flat surfaces with small pieces of masking tape, so that I have two matte but unpowdered surfaces to grab the object between my thumb and index fingers.

[@ArgoBeats]

So useful, Erik, I'm struggling to scan some shiny objects and this will help a lot, thank you. Keep it up!

[@SChaiwan]

Ingenious technique, Erik. Thanks Can we put "original surfaces with existing markings and blemishes" of these objects on the scanned digital models?

[@PROC3699]

Thanks for the brush tip!!! Awesome!!!!

[@REDPanti]

🤗 thanks so much for great information..

[@WaynesStrangeBrain]

Wow, thank you! I am going to have to try this with micro objects (unfortunate bugs).

[@ErikChristensensScanSpace]

I don't do a lot of super macro work so it really interests me as to how it goes!

[@vfxforge]

Hi Erik, thank you for this video and the last one, I would love to see a video for a budget scanning setup under $1000, including camera / lens / filters / lights etc. Theres a lot of info out there, but its all scattered and I'd love to get it all from one experienced source. thank you. edit: for scanning props / sculptures indoors.

[@AlessioRegal]

Great technique, thank you for making this informative tutorial!

[@AndyTanguay]

Great stuff. Thanks for sharing your methods.

[@X3msnake]

Awsome video Master. thanks for sharing. what did u use to reconstruct the models, Reality Capture?

[@dimitristryfonos9680]

Dude, your work is awsome. Your channel should definitely have more attention. Just one question about the cpl filter you made. Do you filter only the light source, or do you also filter the camera lens too. If the case is the latter, are the two filters at the same angle or 90 degrees or aome other angle??

[@ErikChristensensScanSpace]

Thanks man, Appreciate it! Re- CPL filters; You require two filters, one on the light source and one on the lens. To remove reflections you need orient them 90 degrees from each other (Cross Polarised) If you orient them parallel to each other then you will let all reflected light through the lens, as well as the base object color.

[@corwin.macleod]

I use spices of different colors, also watercolor paint where possible. I thought maybe there are other methods but oh well.

[@l.groeger1668]

Well done Eric ! Haven’t heard your gnarly voice for ages :) ..... one thing though Talc Powder is not unproblematic healthwise even if its cosmetic grade. Stay Safe and Healthy.

[@jamyshaw]

Nice one Erik! Great info. We miss you at Weta bro :(

[@MixedDimension]

Great video with a ton off knowledge! Question about assembling photos, RealityCapture cant see all camera points from the back (object scaled on the rotating platform) Did you use some special options?

[@donaldwright2426]

Thank you for these hints. I have a few parts metallique that needs to be photographed for 3D modeling. Just wondering, is stead of our breath, could putting a film coating of vegetable oil would also benefit and help of wyping it ?

[@BogdanRunceanu]

cool tricks! thanks for sharing and keep up the good work!

[@jorge0018]

Thank you !! Great tutorial !!

[@CR3DT]

great video!

[@christianthonhauser4372]

greate explanation. thanks. I tried to create a 3D model from a rubber duck and failed. Now I will try again.

[@scan-the-world]

Good one. Thanks from HK

[@AustinBeaulier]

Great video! Very useful tips!

[@cgbeast3431]

That’s great!

[@edwardrobison3684]

Great video! However, I have a unique challenge of photographing several large museum objects that can not have anything applied to their surface. Any other suggestions? I’m thinking I may just have to take reference photos and model them from scratch and then apply the textures from the photos, but I’d love to hear your thoughts....

[@Pygar2]

Aesub Blue evaporates with no residue...

[@rykerhasyounow]

On the point of real time. Do you think a high end modern cpu could align as fast as say 30fps in actual realtime? Even as low as 720p? I'm curious about applications in mapping terrain in realtime for 4wd'ing.

[@maticusmedia3607]

Awesome 😎

[@dav1dbone]

Am I correct in thinking you are using individual photos in an app to create your mesh? I'm using a revoscan mini and not having much luck, a photogrammetry app that works with images might suit me better, all I want to scan are small objects

[@autodriv3r405]

Mhhh....i think the bad thing on this is: 1. Using the Albedo is no longer possible. 2. Micronoise ? Thanks for the video.

[@GeorgesEmmanuelArnaud]

Thanks , it s amazing

[@thetruthserum2816]

Hmm, now I want to take my powder coating gun and fill it with talc powder or cornstarch and see if that works...

[@atbuen]

It does.

[@libortelupil7647]

Any chance to share the scan of that ringflash battery from time 7:58? I want to 3D print dummy battery for that flash because they're not for sale anywhere. Thank you.

[@christiangiehl6713]

Which Software Are you using?

[@georgeluna6217]

Thinking about texturing, are there any solution since the data set includes includes a "distorted" with powder albedo map.. Any comments there?

[@chokeslam1996]

Brilliant

[@modellerdesign]

Hi, with what was a car "dusted?"

[@ErikChristensensScanSpace]

Corn starch from what I know, so you need to wipe down unless you want a gloopy car next time it rains. so I would suggest something else

[@modellerdesign]

@@ErikChristensensScanSpace thanks mate.

[@Seeitmove]

😂 Thank you!

[@colindavis5249]

Hello, I'm looking to take scans of paintings hanging on a wall. Some will have glass, some will be varnished. Do you have any advice?

[@ErikChristensensScanSpace]

A setup very similar to this is very good at art capture. Polarized light helps capture the surface with stunning clarity, and you can composite several lighting conditions to pull in a lot of fine details that most art scanning methods do not allow for.

[@colindavis5249]

@@ErikChristensensScanSpace Thanks; I'm going to be giving it a try.