Scarpa Veloce Lace: Comfort and Performance

[@joshuawestlund]

This video sold me on this over the standard Veloce. The Velcro strap is crap on the original. I just love this shoe. You describe in great detail why this is a great intermediate shoe.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

For some reason we never reviewed the Veloce V, but that’s the feedback I’ve heard from a fair few folk now. The Veloce Lace certainly doesn’t have that same issue and is so much fun to climb in. I wonder if they’ll rework the Veloce V at some point to bring it up to the same standard 🤔

[@TheChismFamily]

I had to size a full size down compared to my normal Scarpa size in the original Veloce, but it is a great shoe for the price and surprisingly good outdoors too.

[@ernestfrigelj2876]

How much do you usually size down in Scarpas..... In Instincts I go for 1 eu size down

[@TheChismFamily]

1 full size down from street, ( 43 to 42 ). @@ernestfrigelj2876

[@scrubbasher]

I own the old Veloce with the strap and loved them however the strap system was not great for my foot size. The Veloce Lace are just a superior shoe. They have soft padding on the inside that the old version doesn't have which makes them even more comfortable and provides some protection to the top of the foot when toe hooking. The lace system lets you tweak the tightness a lot better and also seems like the big toe has a bit more down turn. If anyone liked the original Veloce then I cannot recommend the Lace version more highly. The rubber on these are so ridiculously sticky on volumes I kind of feel like I am cheating sometimes. My experience is only from indoor climbing, they still perform well on tiny holds but there are shoes that are better at that. They do wear out quick if you aren't careful with them, but not having to worry about my feet slipping when smearing and never having sore feet is a godsend.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Agreed, the Veloce Lace is infinitely superior to the strap version in our opinion too

[@hodothefrobbit8149]

I bought a pair of these last year. Amazingly comfortable and the rubber was exactly as he describes. However, I wish I had bought at least half a size smaller to accommodate for the wear in. The heel stretched out a lot for me, and the rubber wore pretty fast. But for a comfy warm up shoe that sticks to everything, I don't think you can beat this

[@ukclimbingofficial]

They definitely give don't they, so I'm inclined to agree - better to buy them a bit smaller. I used mine for the first time in a while last week and was once-again taken aback by how comfortable and fun to climb in they are.

[@hodothefrobbit8149]

@@ukclimbingofficial100%, I'll definitely be getting another pair for sure

[@happykamil1932]

I would love to buy this pair, but I'm afraid of choosing the wrong size. Can anyone tell me if my usual size for sneakers is EUR 42, US 8.5, and UK 7.5 (26.5 cm), what size of Veloce should I choose? Thanks in advance.

[@Captainspamo]

Same question. I'm coming from sportiva sizing too which makes me even more worried I'll chose wrong

[@Jackwithoneeye]

I find it silly that I still see stiff flat shoes being recommnded as "the" beginner shoe. Despite the person climbing in a modern boulder gym with loads of volumes and steep angles and probably no real intention to start climbing outdoors. I think scarpa are well ahead of the curve with this i think the lasportiva Mantra is the only other shoe I feels fits a similar niche and is alot more pricey atleast in my country. Just curious , any thoughts on fit between mens/womens versions ? Or sizing between other scarpa shoes ? I wear my dragos in 40 should I just grab the same size ?

[@zacharylaschober]

I wear the whole Scarpa high performance line, and I would recommend the Veloce a full euro size down from your performance fit of the Drago while still being comfortable. I have taught plenty of technical classes for a couple hours in the original Veloce at that size without needing to remove my shoes and without feeling much excess space.

[@thesii213]

Any thoughts on how the slightly larger midsole feels vs the original Veloce? Or the heel?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

We touched on this in the video. The longer midsole has a remarkably positive effect on the shoe's performance, especially considering how minimalist it is. This has a knock-on effect to the heel, in particular, which is firmer feel than the Veloce V. This is added to by the fact that the laces help to lock your foot in that bit better too. Overall we'd say it's a significant improvement on the Veloce V.

[@thesii213]

@@ukclimbingofficial Ah thanks for this! Think I missed that part.

[@Wizenedbinkie]

So what's considered beginner/intermediate? I've climbed a few times now (like 5 times), but I regularly climb 6a/6b. @UKClimbing

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Good question, and actually a tricky one to answer these days, as the definition of beginner has changed in recent years from someone climbing easy routes indoors to sometime starting out indoors doing toe/heel hooks - moves that were previously considered 'advanced'. That said, I'd say someone operating in/around the 5/6s and perhaps even the low 7s would get on well with these shoes. They really are a whole lot of fun to climb in!

[@bilaltahir9978]

Can you recommend any beginner/intermediate level shoes that have a wide toe box?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

If you’re looking at starting out indoors then the Veloce Lace featured here would be as good an option as any. It’s certainly fun to climb in and seems to fit everyone. We all love it at UKC, that’s for sure.

[@hodothefrobbit8149]

I have a super wide foot and this fit a dream. Heel can be a bit baggy, depending on your foot profile

[@Alan-l]

How's the sizing compared to the original Veloce? I'm interested but I don't have any local stockists where I can try them on.

[@ukclimbingofficial]

They're the same sizing, so should be pretty much like-for-like

[@hyau23]

is there actually an affordable "beginner-intermediate" shoe that isnt over £100?

[@ukclimbingofficial]

There is, but you've got to look around for them. Maybe there's an article/video to be made about it, although I suspect that over the next couple of years we'll see fewer and fewer that hit the

[@Argcz]

if your climbing gym doesn't have grumpy old men without shirts knocking around, then i feel bad for you son - got 99 problems but grumpy old men without shirts knocking around aint one

[@ukclimbingofficial]

Is this because you are one of the grumpy old men 😂

[@richardbradley1532]

It's a very comfy indoor shoe that works pretty well (especially for smearing). I can do a full session without ever taking them off. Still would not recommend them for a beginner, though, as I think they lack sufficient support.

[@RM-xq7gf]

how heavy are you?

[@WisdomThroughGod]

I wear the regular veloce and I’m 195 pounds

[@ukclimbingofficial]

The thing is that beginners are doing very different things to what they once were. They’re now climbing much more gymnastically, as opposed to easy single/multi-pitch routes outdoors. The two different disciplines require two very different shoes and the Veloce Lace, in our eyes, fulfils the criteria of the modern indoor climber.

[@richardbradley1532]

@@RM-xq7gf I'm 12 1/2 Stone

[@richardbradley1532]

@@ukclimbingofficial if seen beginner boulderers. 🤣😂