Great video, it's nice to have an in depth discussion of the ins and outs of a specific raw material and some ideas on how to use it! If I may, I might add that one thing I learned about patchouli was the accord with ethyl maltol to make the "gourmand" accord found in the perfume "Angel" by Thierry Mugler. I would recommend anyone who has both raw materials to try adding them together :)
@SarahMcCartney41602 жыл бұрын
Oh yes, absolutely. They are marvellous together, and we like it with vanillin too.
@Shawn-gw7ns Жыл бұрын
Fantastic 👌
@lab9337 Жыл бұрын
Fantastic video Sarah, I’m learning loads from watching you
@SarahMcCartney4160 Жыл бұрын
Thank you. It's always lovely to know that it's useful.
@andyrnb49232 жыл бұрын
I really struggle with a lot of patchoulis, specifically the clean versions like clearwood and patchouli coeur. They smell great from the bottle but dank and murky on my skin. I recently discovered dark aged patchouli, which is my favourite. Combining with iso e super and ethylene brassylate makes it smell really chocolatey.
@SarahMcCartney41602 жыл бұрын
I think it's a shame that people are going for squeaky clean patchouli when the dirty ones are so much more fun.
@JC-yy8iv2 жыл бұрын
I thought it was just me, I really really dislike Clearwood in the dry down, if I get some on me I keep thinking I smell mildew all day. Even though it’s cleaner, my perception is that the other elements of natural patchouli balance it out in some way
@SarahMcCartney41602 жыл бұрын
@@JC-yy8iv I just bought a nice big vat of the "crude" from India.
@laurenbray83142 жыл бұрын
Try patchouli with cocoa absolute. Its probably my favorite combo. Its simple but can be built upon. A little Vanilla materials or amber accord too. So good. You can take it either masculine, feminine, or unisex too.
@MrDigitalWorks2 жыл бұрын
Same here ... love the smell of Clearwood out of the bottle ... but on skin it is really kind of murky
@MrDigitalWorks2 жыл бұрын
I absolutely adore Clearwood, but on skin it smells quite different then in the air. I like the kind of sophisticated earthyness it has smelling it out of the bottle.
@SarahMcCartney4160 Жыл бұрын
I think it depends whose skin it it. But yes, it's lovely straight out of the bottle.
@mochacola7211 ай бұрын
I'm going to have to get pistachio oil from Europe...can't find it in the states.
@SarahMcCartney416011 ай бұрын
There isn't a pistachio essential oil exactly. I have made a pistachio accord using synthetics. You can get mastic essential oil from the same plant, but it's made from tree gum, not from the nuts. Pistachio nut oil is a carrier oil, like almond oil, not used in perfumery. I hope that helps.
@mochacola7211 ай бұрын
@@SarahMcCartney4160 That helps alot. Thank you
@laurenbray83142 жыл бұрын
God I love me some patchouli. I could bathe in it. Anything patchouli centric I usually love but my favorite is using it in gourmand creations though. I've never used the clean versions and fractions of it yet though, only the essential oils. I'm excited to try them all out but I already know I'm going to always prefer the dirty earthy ones lol.
@SarahMcCartney41602 жыл бұрын
Me too. Love some chocolately dirty earthiness.
@900miniatureponies2 жыл бұрын
Very enjoyable video! Where might I find some 'young patchouli', I need to smell this? I'm obsessed with finding Take Me To The River now, Krystal Fragrance is selling 2ml samples for $25CAD. It's not stocked at Lucky Scent, Indiescents or Perfumology or any of my usual sources. Looks like I may have to make a side trip to London in September on my way to Italy and raid your lab, with your permission of course.
@SarahMcCartney41602 жыл бұрын
Yes, come to the lab. I've got some lovely fresh but filthy patchouli.
@LightOfJoy12 жыл бұрын
Forgive me if you've already covered this, but would you be able to cover maceration vs maturation vs aging? Thanks so much!
@SarahMcCartney41602 жыл бұрын
Aging is leaving something to grow old. With essential oils sometimes it's a good idea (like sandalwood) but mostly it isn't. Maturation is leaving an undiluted fragrance compound to blend on a molecular level, aging until the perfume feels that it's ready to dilute; maceration is leaving the diluted finished fragrance to age and settle into smoothness. In my experience, the more naturals in the formula, the longer they need.
@LightOfJoy12 жыл бұрын
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Thank you! I've found that my own perfumes with vanilla and patchouli tend to get better with a little age on them. I didn't realize that aging before dilution changed things on a molecular level. How interesting! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
@laurenbray83142 жыл бұрын
My mom always wore straight up patchouli essential oil as perfume. I think my love for it was forced upon me by her from a young age lol. Come to think of it, its the first essential oil I ever encountered I guess. Probably one reason why its my fave. Nostalgia.
@SarahMcCartney41602 жыл бұрын
I knew many people who did this too. I'm very fond of it.
@PanopticMotion2 жыл бұрын
I suggest moving the microphone closer to Sarah. Thank you for the great content.
@SarahMcCartney41602 жыл бұрын
There isn't one, it's on the camera. We'll just have to ask Arthur to whisper.
@PanopticMotion2 жыл бұрын
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Or you start shouting ;)
@SarahMcCartney41602 жыл бұрын
@@PanopticMotion That is the other option. 😁
@900miniatureponies2 жыл бұрын
@@SarahMcCartney4160 how about one of those little mics you pin to your shirt?
@hulkblue92442 жыл бұрын
my imagination is the brown color aroma oil can give nice results like patchouli light coconut accord benzoin Ho wood cocoa accord i did a trial and waiting the result 1 ml each 10% thanks it was great information ✨
@SarahMcCartney41602 жыл бұрын
Keep me updated.
@hulkblue92442 жыл бұрын
@@SarahMcCartney4160 i will 👍🏼
@hulkblue92442 жыл бұрын
i checked today sure im gonna rebuild and reduce the cocoa to 0,20 ml at 10% because the cocoa accord very strong i cannot smell the others aroma i will make more balance and see
@andym282 жыл бұрын
How long do you macerated naturals for?
@SarahMcCartney41602 жыл бұрын
You mean just the one material in ethanol? It depends when I need them. Sometimes I used them the same day; I only use them for my tests and samples, not for finished fragrances that I'm going to sell, so they're like my pencil and sketch pad not my best watercolours.