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[@sdgelectronics]

PCBWay 3D Printing and Fabrication: www.pcbway.com/rapid-prototyping/ Miniware MHP50: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DCJTfub UGreen GaN Charger: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkmQWKj Pico Technology 5000 Series Scope: www.picotech.com/oscilloscope/5000/flexible-resolution-oscilloscope Support the Channel with Patreon: www.patreon.com/sdgelectronics

[@miniware]

Thank you for your review. When you use USB-C power supply to restart the reflow, it should be that the power of the power supply is not enough. You can adjust the PD power limit to about 130W in the menu, and it should not restart.

[@Galileocrafter]

Now it’s big enough for keeping the coffee warm :)

[@riverstones-wd40]

Exactly

[@vincei4252]

Well, I wasn't even half way thru and I bought one. Thanks!

[@tijani_io]

Great video!,Nobody knows which is the best option to choose between the aluminum and brass versions? I want to buy one and I'm leaning towards the aluminum version... I've read that it heats up faster and more evenly... I'd be curious to see a benchmark when the fan cools both plates... I deduce the aluminum version cools down faster?

[@TheEmbeddedHobbyist]

i could do with one, but for the limited use they are a bit pricy. keep looking for a lab hotplate to come up cheap as they are a bit more versatile. have been thinking of getting a steel plate and putting some cartridge heaters on it, this might work out a fun project. still working on the heat isolation from the plate to base bit.

[@thobiasmartin4768]

The UYUE 946 1010 Is very nice for the price, I modified it to have the control base seperate from the hotplate to lower it on my bench and it works flawlessly for me.

[@jackhoffman6120]

Furthermore I don't agree with the comments in this video of having to slide off the PCBs after the solder has flowed. The fan has been installed for a good reason and it's not there to keep the Miniware MHP50 cool. The main purpose of the fan is to cool down the hot plate as quickly as possible after the solder has flowed. I suspect that this is the main driver for the aluminium hot plate option which cools much faster than its brass counterpart hot plate option. My take is that you choose the aluminium hot plate (which has a lower thermal mass than brass) if you want faster cool downs (assisted by the fan). Once again this is my take as I had to make some decisions about buying this Miniware MHP50 which had me thinking. I'm not familiar with what is available on the market, but it seems that the Miniware MHP50 is the first hot plate that has a programmable soldering profile which up until now has been the realm of soldering ovens. Are the other soldering hot plates on the market that have programmable solder profiles? I've never heard of a soldering hot plate with a cool down fan up until now, which if true makes this soldering hot plate a revelation to have programmable soldering profiles and goes to explain why there is an aluminium hot plate (which has much better cooling performance... heating speed is less important) and I can't really understand any advantage of having a brass hot plate in this application. This is just my personal opinion as I've only just ordered my Miniware MHP50 24 hours ago, so none of what I have written is from practical experience.

[@gregclare]

Nice review. This seems to deliver on the promise of their earlier smaller unit, which always seemed like it really didn’t have what was really needed.

[@teslatrooper]

I've been using my MHP30 to reflow small boards, with IronOS it can also do reflow profiles. Funnily enough it also has an issue where sometimes it stops during the initial ramp up (before 100C). I'd probably get this one if I was in the market for a small hot plate now.

[@fons]

Is there a PCB holder for the MHP50? Unlike other plates, it doesn't provide a way to hold the PCB in place when working on it.

[@pn8902]

E-design told me a 40mm heating element and tin pot are in the plans when I emailed them (2021) about buying replacement 30mm elements in case the surface got damaged, for the MHP30. Wonder if the tin pot is still happening, probably can now that this higher power device has released otherwise I was wondering how the mhp30 base could support a tin pot as a replacement module for the 30mm hot plate

[@philipgiacalone5605]

Thanks for the nice video review. Can you please explain why the boards need to be moved off of the hotplate before it cools down? Can't they be left there until everything has cooled down?

[@sdgelectronics]

Most electronics components aren't rated to remain at high temperatures for anything longer than a typical reflow profile.

[@IanScottJohnston]

The cooldown part of the reflow cycle is quite important to help avoid thermal shock and to get the best joints. You don’t have to wait till ambient though, I found 70degC is enough.

[@sdgelectronics]

@@IanScottJohnston The hotplate takes around 10 minutes to drop to 100C and for some reason doesn't spin at maximum speed for very long. I think there are still some firmware tweaks needed.

[@neiliewheeliebin]

@@sdgelectronics 10 minutes is ridiculous i thought the fan was supposed to ramp its profile down, i was just about to buy one but i think ill wait a while longer until they release a firmware

[@TheDefpom]

nice to see buttons on the front, I really disliked the rear buttons on the MHP30 which i found made it much harder to use.

[@FriendlyIntentions]

That's the same DC jack as the TS100 Iron, ive been looking for it as well, no luck yet :(

[@cdyoutoob]

You need to be able to set/limit the rate at which the temperature rises during normal 'heat' mode. Rising too fast might seem like a good idea, but it can destroy stuff you might need to heat at a particular rate.

[@Peter_A1466]

About those 60 layer PCB's... What type of project requires a 60 layer Printed Circuit Cube? 😄

[@sdgelectronics]

I also wonder how many orders they've had for such a thing!

[@Peter_A1466]

@@sdgelectronics would also require an interesting soldering profile

[@r7boatguy]

I love my MHP-20, but I just bought a 946C, so maybe have to hold off on getting this one. If they made a 75mm version, I think that would be ideal for my needs.

[@TorchHacker]

Is the temperature across the plate of the MHP50 consistent? I bought a cheap hot plate branded as "MHP30" (clearly isn't the MHP30) and the temperature varies wildly between the middle and edges.

[@sdgelectronics]

It shows about a 3°C difference across the plate, so it is pretty good.

[@TorchHacker]

@@sdgelectronics Thanks for replying! The quality sounds good.

[@TorchHacker]

It can be a bit difficult to find the right power supply for these hot plates. I bought a compact Belkin 65W power supply for a MiniWare MHP30 and it would constantly restart when it started heating up. I ended up using a PinePower Desktop power supply. Similarly the MiniWare TS80 requires a QC3 power supply. My USB-C PD power supplies don't work with the TS80. I gave a TS80 to a friend but forgot about the QC3 requirement... doh. Now they need to get a new power supply.

[@sdgelectronics]

That's why I ended up getting the ugreen power supply. Hopefully that should cater for everything unless a new standard comes out.

[@neiliewheeliebin]

I power my MHP30 with the same Belkin 65w all the time, just set the power limit to 60w in IronOS firmware.

[@contentwarningcity]

Did the USB-C max power get bumped up to 150W in the beta firmware? I’ve had one of these for a couple of months and it maxes out at 100W with USB-C and 150W with DC 5525. This is per the manual, device UI, and my personal experience.

[@sdgelectronics]

Yes, the firmware updated the USB-C power ratings. It's supposed to be released very soon.

[@TechStuffGuy]

I got this from your link when it was around 75€. It was V1.0 I found MHP50APPV101 from their site and now my thing say on screen "Not e-Design Product!"

[@Gabriel-pf5pu]

thanks for the review! what is your opinion on brass vs aluminium heatplate?

[@sdgelectronics]

From what I can see the nano coating on the brass hotplate is easier to clean. No performance difference though.

[@jaro6985]

Normally I see the high current shielded style barrel connectors. Though this only needs 6A so its not crazy high. But this style should be cheaper to make. Odd nothing on LCSC like this I saw thats through hole.

[@markjones9180]

Any recommendations between the aluminium vs brass versions?

[@sdgelectronics]

I don't think there is any performance difference. The brass version is supposed to have a nano coating to help clean the hotplate.

[@norm1124]

Did anyone try to regulate a cooking plate with the "IronOS" ? This would give a WAY bigger area :D

[@Peter_A1466]

Or maybe a flat iron?

[@fons]

For the record, the smaller mhp30 is supported by IronOS

[@acoustic61]

I think I'd want something larger.

[@jackhoffman6120]

I'm human and therefore I make mistakes but having had studied the spec sheet for the Miniware MHP50 I don't agree with what was said in this video. My take is this: 1. The USB-C power interface is PD 3.0 (not PD 3.1), therefore the MHP50 can only put out a max of 100W if powered via USB-C. 2. The 5.5mm x 2.5mm DC input can go up to 28.0 VDC achieving a max of 150W. How did I come to this conclusion? I wanted to buy a Miniware MHP50, but I also needed to buy a PD 3.0 (not PD 3.1) USB-C power supply. A PD 3.1 power supply is double the price of a PD 3.0 power supply and therefore unnecessary for the Miniware MHP50. If you want to run the Miniware MHP50 at its maximum 150W the only way you will do this is through the 5.5mm x 2.5mm DC input with 28.0 VDC. I don't know this from practical experience because I ordered my Miniware MHP50 only 24 hours ago on Aliexpress, so it hasn't arrived. There is nothing in the official Miniware MHP50 spec sheet that it uses the PD 3.1 standard, so save your money by not buying an "expensive" PD 3.1 power supply. 100W will work for most applications, but the only way you will hit 150W is if you power the Miniware MHP50 with 28.0 VDC via the 5.5mm x 2.5mm DC input. My assertion is based on the Miniware MHP50 spec sheet and not practical experience.