Sealing Framing to Foundation

In this video, Matt will show you how to seal the critical joint between your concrete foundation and your wood framing. This joint is tricky with other methods, but Matt is using Prosoco’s R-Guard Joint and Seam filler which is part of their Fluid Applied Weather Barrier system.
Find more on that product here: www.prosoco.com/products/r-gua...
Read the Journal of Light Construction Article Matt wrote “Sealing The Foundation To Framing” www.jlconline.com/how-to/exter...
The tools Matt’s using in this video:
Sausage Pack Caulking Gun alexa.design/2pn5Rke
Bent Tip alexa.design/2okCnnA
Leatherman Raptor alexa.design/2nyI0S4
Chip Brush alexa.design/2p0x9NB

[@pety151]

MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. kzbin.infoUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo

[@PplEtr]

I'm a homeowner and advanced DIY'er. I'm forced to do my own rot mitigation after a contractor fleeced me (whew, and how!). You introduced me to the Prosoco line, and this stuff is AMAZING! Thanks for this!

[@lostinmyspace4910]

Matt We did the same exact thing years ago when we pulled out the T-111 wood siding, and pulled out the Corning fiberglass insulation. We spray foamed the entire wall cavity of the house, then we used a rubberized house caulking, and hit above the 3/4 inch floor, and below the same plywood floor to seal the cold air coming thru those cracks. Thats better than caulking behind the baseboard from inside the house. This way air doesn't even infiltrate into the basement thru the bottom crack of the plywood. I used plywood as an applicator and really forced the caulk into the cracks.

[@tommydjohnsonjr]

I'd love to see a video with all the recommended layers of a wall, for long term reliability. (Drywall, spray foam in LVL's, 7/16" osb, rigid foam, rainscreen, house wrap, and finishing material), or however you'd recommend

[@tommydjohnsonjr]

@mattrisinger this is a great video to add to a great series. Thanks for making the trade better and more informed.

[@Mattstafford2009]

WHAT!???! I'm a huge fan and everything here looked great and very informative, but you left out the best part... "ON THE BUILD SHOW!"

[@scotthixson5917]

Sweet/boss intro Matt. Thanks for the knowledge bomb once again. Like I've said before, I am a young builder and you have taught me considerably more about how to build the right way, with integrity, compared to the GC I am shadowing

[@buildshow]

+Scott Hixson thanks buddy! That intro was funny in my head as I planned it. Glad it turned out well!

[@ArneJohanssonMpls]

On the Rogue Show! I like that fluid applied. I am gonna try that.

[@POLOLOUS3]

Congrats on the cover and article.

[@buildshow]

+POLOLOUS3 thanks!

[@samtidwell3439]

@MattRisinger - can you make a video on how you detail the siding and/or stucco to cover that joint? That would be super helpful. Thanks!

[@optikradio]

this please

[@alianti-racism8833]

U cover that with starting strip

[@rockcrusher7000]

GR8 JOB , I look forward to these vid's thnx

[@buildshow]

ROCK CRUSHER thanks!

[@jmarianu3976]

I coated the outside and top of the concrete foundation with a bitimous waterproofing product. I painted the sill with kilnz and then wrapped the bottom with rain and Ice and used a standard foam sill pad between the two. But I did not seal the gap like you did because I was concerned about ventilation.

[@david1828100]

Matt Thanks, I have learned so much from your videos, any books you recommend reading.

[@2Jeezuzisreal]

Great info. Need this on our wood foundation. We built on pea rock by the code. Even the bearing wall footing pads are pressure teated. We are thinking on the wall plywood useing Henry's blue seal liquid. Then maybe Blueskin rolls of peel and stick. Its just like roofing Ice&water rolls peel stick. I think its butyl and poly.

[@michaeldrope8482]

I think it's awesome you have the Raptors. I work EMS and have a pair.

[@HistoricHomePlans]

I like this detail and approach a lot. How might it be reconciled with a termite shield? Often I find the solution to one problem has a negative impact on another problem.

[@carlosmontoya7418]

Hello! Are you still looking for solutions and can you give me an example to what has an negative impact on another problem? We specialize on termite and waterproofing.

[@fostib3467]

excellent video

[@nanaimosquashpro557]

Hi Matt, We just purchased a new home and it has an aggregate deck on the front. We have just repaired the rotten joists and framing downstairs as the flashing was only about 1/2-1" above the deck surface up the house and water was pouring in (We live on rainy Vancouver Island). We were told to go with torch on flashing to eliminate future leaking but the roofer said that will not work on aggregate. I am wondering if this is the product we should use with regular flashing 6" added on top? Our deck is too big of a job currently to get rid of. Your expertise would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

[@briaraenaslingshot]

@mattrisinger -- I have an old post frame building with metal exterior that was built on a concrete slab, however, no barrier between concrete and frame; any advise? I don't want to tear the thing down, but I don't want wood rot

[@michaellarson3824]

Matt i have a similar situation can i do all the wall plywood seams and the a weather wrap over the top?

[@shahsmerdis]

@Matt, Small idea, Why do you fluid apply the last 4 inch of the plywood on both sides and the bottom (where it meets foundation) , before you install so no moisture can wick up the ply wood. Just a thought :)

[@morganmclean5861]

thanks for your response. we are all waiting for a "how to" video for replacing an aluminum window in a brick home the right way.

[@buildshow]

+Morgan Mclean already did that video!

[@digitalQ33]

I'm getting 7 linear feet per 20 oz sausage! I'm only dropping down about an inch on the concrete, then, about 1.5 up the 7/16" OSB. Buy more than you think you need! It appears to be great stuff, thanks for the tip Matt!

[@garrettp.5018]

This is insane! Somebody else told me he gets 55’ feet going 6” on osb and 2” under but uses a bondo scraper

[@somethingkindawonderful3034]

What is this stuff ? He doesn't say

[@digitalQ33]

@@somethingkindawonderful3034 It's Prosoco R-Guard

[@shanekrantz2781]

This seems like it could be a good option to seal between sheathing connections to block out air leakage before Tyvek. Possibly cheaper than some of the good tapes.

[@AJohnson0325]

I doubt this is one of his builds because he tends to use the zip system instead of Tyvek and osb or plywood. The zip system is osb with a built in weather barrier then there is either their zip tape or zip liquid flash to seal everything up.

[@SuperFunny65]

Would it be okay to use the R-Guard to seal the sill plate to slab seam as shown, then tape over with Carlisle membrane? If not, Carlisle system vs R-Guard?

[@virgil3241]

So how is this done after the fact. Tons of us know that many builders do it fast and cheap, leaving it up to the home owners down the line to deal with it. In a completely finished basement, how do you deal with this, besides tearing your entire basement apart down to the studs?

[@thelouiebrand]

Remove your siding. Seal and put it back on.

[@johnmason528]

Matt. icf blocks were used to build my underground garage and stick on membrane waterproofed it. But below the above ground cladding and the ground, is a gap where i can still see the stick on membrane which goes all the way down into the ground. im worried about uv damage to that and think it should be covered? what should be done between the ground and where the cladding starts to cover the membrane? is there video on that.

[@Tristonica]

Wow Matt, maybe you should have left it to Sean from Prosoco. You got R-Guard all over the nicely finished concrete plinth!

[@teresareyes934]

Great video Keith. So how is the MFT table shaping up?

[@hectorrivers8762]

Cute job

[@jimr7398]

can I use it on drywall wall with concrete floor? I need to seal a tankless water heater closet

[@georgejackson7159]

Would this method work if my siding is sitting level with a brick patio? I have no way to hang my siding below the foundation because my foundation sits level with the patio, and the patio extends another 3 feet. Sealing is going to be a major issue.

[@london402]

you prefer this to the peel and stick? Can this be done after the wrap is on?

[@oscarlopez1357]

@MattRisinger - Could I use the zipsystem liquid flashing to seal and waterproof brick-ledge?

[@ritalee569]

Matt, Great video. Question 1. What do you do when you have a porch . . .do you still seal between foundation and wood framing?

[@trvsdvdsn]

Hi Matt, this might be an older vid but it felt like the right place to ask: in the video it appears that the face of stud is coplanar with the face of foundation and the sheathing is proud of that (in other words the face of sheathing is not coplanar with the face of concrete). In other videos the sheathing IS coplanar with the face of concrete. Is this a better detail when you align the sheathing and concrete?

[@jaydee9630]

We have cedar lap and gap (tongue and groove) siding and have been sealing the horizontal joints with Masterseal np1 caulk sealant. I have read in numerous places to not caulk between horizontal siding, because it needs to drain any water which could possibly get behind it and it has to move with expansion and contraction of the boards. The transition between the slab and skirt board have also allowed these small cridders into our house. The siding was installed correctly, but over the course of 30 plus years the boards have some gaps between the joints. Friends and family members who are carpenters have informed me as long as you keep the siding sealed and treated there shouldn't be a problem with water getting behind the siding and to seal these horizontal joints. By these boards not being sealed we have introduced carpenter ants, scorpions and other cridders. Does anyone have a suggestion please? Thanks

[@venegasenmerida6307]

Can you blow in diatomoceus earth powder in there and inside dobthe same along your perimeter & then seal your baseboards & quarter round with stretch poly caulk & seal wall outlets & put Child proof plugs when not in use to preventbug intrusion..

[@JamesM-fz3fo]

Hi Matt, what waterproofing method do you recommend for a shed that's on an existing slab. The plywood will have paper and lathe for the stucco along with the weep on the bottom, but the bottom plate (pt 2x4) will still be exposed to water. Is there a way to stucco it and seal it?

[@scottthompson1628]

Prosoco is good stuff

[@candiceschreiner4987]

Hi. I rebuilt a vintage g ra in bin on a concrete slab. The slab is 6" larger than the bin, I want to use it as finished space, will this flashing create a water tight seal batween metal and concrete?

[@gellybellyism]

If we do this exterior process, is necessary to still caulk the interior sill/concrete gap? Which is best? Both, one or the other? Thanks

[@onepoket]

Could this be used in an attic to air seal the conditioned space below?

[@MonzaRacer]

Yes just make sure it's got a bit of moisture to help set up also they have an air barrier that's for around Windows that works well too and stuff to fill gaps before sealing.

[@andrewccolwell]

Hi Matt, Great timing on this video! I'm replacing sheathing and siding on my house. I have a sidewalk along the side of my house that is on the same plane as the foundation. I had been looking at using Fentrim F over the Zip Sheathing, under the Zip sheathing edge, to the small portion of the sill plate that would be exposed, and then to the concrete. Then probably flashing under the rain screen and siding to kick water out. Any thoughts or recommendations? I would appreciate it!

[@buildshow]

+Andrew Colwell I can't picture this. Tag me on Instagram with a sketch and I'll reply

[@andrewccolwell]

Hey Matt, I posted a picture and tagged you in it. "acctx" is my IG handle. Thank you!

[@Constructor-ly8in]

Using this material UNDER the sill plates as they are installed and then using a bituthene flashing would be much more effective and faster/cleaner.

[@augustreil]

Best stuff I have ever used is that rubberized fiber roof patch that comes in a one gallon can. I have used it on the top of chimneys to waterproof and still performs as good as the day I installed it, over 25 yrs ago, sun, rain, snow hasn't hurt it. I have used it to seal the sill plate to the concrete along with the foam and there's nothing getting through it, air, bugs, water Etc ! Sometimes the old shit should be used because it's a proven thing.

[@anthonyman8008]

august To seal the foam to the concrete and/or? The sill to the foam? What do you do about joists? I've been in a lot of house that changed hands where the joists crumble.

[@vanessaoseguera2583]

Can you provide the brand of rubberized fiber roof patch that you used?

[@pnwbuilder]

@@vanessaoseguera2583 I am curious too. This looks like the stuff @august has mentioned: www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-608-oz-Fiber-Coat-Rubberized-Roof-Coating-0185-GA/301919795

[@CountBeetle]

How can i seal on room leaking built on a concrete patio

[@MrUpsidedowngaming]

Matt Risinger my builder used some sort of foam gasket on top of the concrete slab before applying sill plates, but nothing like this. My house is in NE, its a new build. How hard would it be do remove some of the vinyl siding to do something like this? Or what would you do after the fact?

[@HeliosE7]

Similar situation here. I really wish I had seen this and some of Matt's other videos before having our new house built. Depending on your situation it might be possible to go back and do this but you would need to investigate your specific situation to see if it would be feasible or not. In my case I was able to do it. I used a siding removal tool to loosen the bottom row of vinyl siding (freeing the bottom edge from the metal starter strip). Then had to carefully remove the starter strip (removing each nail using a nail puller). Had to also remove some of the staples and nails that were holding down the bottom edge of the housewrap. Temporarily folded up the bottom edge of housewrap and carefully held that and bottom row of the siding up and out of the way while working. Used tape and plastic drop cloths to mask off and protect the lower, exposed part of the concrete that I didn't want the r-guard to drip on. Applied r-guard to seal the sheathing to the foundation as Matt shows in this video. Let dry for about an hour or two. Then went back and removed masking tape/drop cloths. Then folded the bottom edge of the house wrap back down, re-secured it, nailed the siding starter strip back down, and then re-hooked the bottom row of siding back to the starter strip. Had to do this project over multiple days- it took quite a long time and was especially difficult in some places (it was really tricky on the side of my house where the electrical service, hvac, fresh air intake, vent pipes, are all located due to the lack of room to work with). Really wish I or my builder had known about this and had done it during construction. In either case, I feel much better now that I've gone back and done this. There were big enough gaps in some places where we had small ants getting into the house and this has sealed up those entry points. I'm also hoping it will also better protect the bottom of the sheathing from moisture. Matt, thanks for all of the great videos!

[@lakestatebullies7391]

Duct seal works great

[@bvac]

Kinda weird that my untreated shiplap sheathing sitting directly on a brick foundation without any flashing or sealing has lasted 100 years in the rainy northeast without this product applied to it. Would you recommend it on remodels/old work?

[@buildshow]

+Bryan Vaccaro that's the beauty of old growth lumber that has plenty of air flow. "If it can't dry it's gonna die". Use this to air seal and waterproof when Remodeling.

[@haasjeism]

Can you also do this when the plywood is a wallcover on the inside? I have water dripping in when it's raining heavy at a few points where the osb joins the concrete slab. It's a garage.

[@shawndoyle6460]

I would look into using a mastic tape like eternabond or peel and seal....

[@thomasparrott2599]

would this work for a vertical joint where a vertical plate ties to a step down foundation?

[@michaelkolozsvari3575]

If you have an already built garage, but are finishing the inside, should you seal between the foundation and the studs, or are you risking trapping water in the walls that makes it in from the outside? Similar question to air seal between the studs and the inside of the material against them. Will sealing this just cause bigger risks down the line?

[@germannerd1]

When the siding goes on, do you do anything to cover the gap between siding and foundation created by the thickness of the sheathing?

[@ReggaeRedeemer]

Does homie know how to use a paintbrush? Cool video office dude 😝

[@DanK00707]

I built a shed and did NOT do this type of sealing, and when it rains water comes in under the sill. I’ve already installed stone and siding. Any recommendations, should I seal from the inside? Thanks.

[@goldenbergconstruction1656]

That kind of looks like the stuff you use with Premier SIPS panels.

[@yusuihang]

Can/should this be used to flash around replacement windows, where it's difficult to slip flashing tapes in?

[@buildshow]

Yes. Look for my other videos about that very topic.

[@JFAM077]

What would be good to use to seal off the ICF foundation to sill?

[@geekdad9466]

Matt, I just came across this video. We just finished up a modular home on a basement, and I am looking for something like this to seal the house from bugs and water. Right now we have a problem with crickets, and I have narrowed it down to two areas of the foundation. I thought about caulk, but I know that the house needs to move/settle and breathe, and I don't want rot. the other problem is that these areas are really tight to the foundation, but this looks pliable enough to get into those tight areas. We also have two areas with patios, and I'm worried about splash from rain getting onto the wood from below and causing rot. Is this something that can help with that too?

[@buildshow]

+Geek Dad yes. This is much better than a standard caulk

[@geekdad9466]

thank you!

[@tigertran01]

What would you use from the inside of the house to seal between the studs and the foundation?

[@somethingkindawonderful3034]

Sil gasket ( white foam roll )

[@joshuabenavides4869]

I am assuming we do not need the foam seal? Please advise

[@rickrudd]

Reminds me of duct mastic. I realize it's a far superior product, but the application is similar.

[@blanksender7808]

OK you've sealed the bottom, now what about that joint where the OSB meets the plywood? Seems a comparable issue

[@AnthonyBrusca]

D Priv also flash it?

[@gloriasabin3624]

What is the difference between Posco Joint Seam filler and Fast Flash Liquid flashing. My main application will be to seal the base plat of my 20'x10' shed which is mounted on a flat concrete slab.

[@Nu8S4uc3]

What about a peel and stick membrane that covers that joint? Should stick well to both the plywood and concrete and would provide the same waterproofing effect wouldn't it?

[@buildshow]

+Jake Apple yes I've used that many times but even with primer it does not always stay stuck. This is basically a waterproofing glue. No primer needed and it works even if surfaces are damp or even wet! It's a better detail

[@chadphillips8898]

If I'm framing in a carport and the concrete goes out past where the framing is. Will this product keep water from running under the wood and getting into the garage.

[@jurnagin]

Chad Phillips I'm in process of framing in my garage and we are about to put some flashing around bottom and probably use some type of glue sealant

[@CountBeetle]

What happened? I got a leaking room on a concrete patio

[@bellemichelle9459]

I have had a hard time getting prosoco here, rural NC area, even from a building company who is supposed to be able to order it. Also, I can't seem to find it in anything less than a five gallon bucket. I wish the manufacturer would sell online or allow you to link to a seller.

[@jesusisaliberal548]

Can I use this instead? ZIP System Liquid Flash | 29 oz. Cartridge | Weather-Resistant | Flashing Sealant

[@michaelhowell8990]

Help! Is there a reason Not to build so my plywood is flush with the block wall? Is the overhang important? Seems like water would hang out there to drip vs. one smooth continuous surface where it would continue to flow.

[@GZWA]

you don't want the edge of the plywood to be in contact with the concrete and its easier when framing to line the sill plate up with the slab edge.

[@Anthony-fi9ml]

Is this still the product of choice 3 years later or is there a better option now?

[@Patriot3791]

Do you have any experience with Rub-R-Wall, the green fluid applied barrier?

[@CountBeetle]

Can i seal a room that leaks on a concrete patio with that? What can i do?

[@galas455]

Hi Matt, the tenant in my rental house is always complaining about ants in the house, I've hired a professional pest company to spray for these little critters but that can get expensive, is there anything else I can do? Do I need to seal the house better as you have shown? Better solutions?

[@normancarnahan4893]

Jeffrey, see if you can sprinkle some 20 Mule Team Borax in the wall cavities, then patch the sheetrock. If you can put borax in the bottom of the wall cavities, it would probably cut back on the little critters, ants, cockroaches, etc. I think it is environmentally OK - and certainly better than many commercial toxic sprays.

[@venegasenmerida6307]

Diacemotous earth powder also can be used make sure your baseboards & quarter round are sealed along the perimeter of the inside also make sure your outlets are sealed. Too many Insects spiders coming into a house are sometimes due to poor Walter drainage away from your homes foundation / crawl space.. are your gutters working properly. Is Walter being drained at least 10 ft from your foundation? Apple drains has some excellent vids on KZbin

[@stephanpicotte5863]

Hi Matt is the fast flash ftom prosoco compatible with ICF eps

[@aot2002]

Matt why wouldn’t you also seal the cracks between the boards above as well?

[@AlejandroLopez-jx2tm]

Could you make a video on brick to siding detail, i have brick on the side of my house and it goes to siding in the back.

[@Titannurse]

Is this something that could be done on an existing home with aluminum siding? Just bought our first home. Love this channel. Thank you!

[@quicksilver2446]

Being in Commercial Insulation for 30+ years, this seams messy and time consuming job ! I think comment by Stanley Siewierski said it best,...... tar with mesh plus rubberized Alumaguard sheathing strips is the way to go and will outlive the building.

[@Mogman150]

Check out 3M 730, 740 and 760 'adhesive sealant'. I think they have better UV qualities and may be cheaper

[@jackl4253]

how did the stucco detail to foundation go?

[@highpockets82]

Did you use PT Plywood on the 1st course?

[@alteragnostik]

Is that a regular plywood as external sheeting? I though only OSB is used these days, or some fancy prefabricated sandwitches.

[@buildshow]

+alteragnostik yes that's regular plywood.

[@alteragnostik]

Thank you, Matt! That's cool. And what are the advantages of plywood over other stuff? Or is it trend to go back to the roots? :)

[@london402]

I hear it stays straighter over the long run for stucco or hardie board applied directly onto it. If Brick or stone, go with OSB

[@MegaGouch]

How do you think a lot of these products will hold out long term? Is it realistic to think that the sealants and peel and stick products are going to last for 50+ years? I know that you liked to do everything you can to make a place water tight, so not just rely on these products.

[@morganmclean5861]

ok what if I put a roofing ice and water shield over that same gap to prevent air and moisture coming through?

[@buildshow]

+Morgan Mclean that can work but the issue is getting that to stick to the concrete long term. (Or short term for that matter)

[@josephpagenkopf4676]

What about the Sega tape? Is this much cheaper, because it looks painful to apply? Messy and you still need to lay down painters tape.

[@delz3501]

Looks nice but pricey no doubt.. I might try the cheaper way and use a roof coating

[@richard-west]

It's about $24 for a 20 oz tube

[@sundew2007]

19.99 0n amazon

[@wildamerican2771]

How does the frame get attached so a tornado doesn’t rip it off the foundation?

[@ryanchaffee7243]

Do you have to use a brush or can it be spread out with a trowel or taping knife?

[@buildshow]

+Ryan Chaffee those work well too

[@ryanchaffee7243]

Good to know. I really appreciate the time you take to educate us on how to improve our skills and house preformance. Thanks

[@aayotechnology]

Could this also be sprayed on somehow? Brushing just seams too tedious.

[@pcatful]

What's the tape for? Just to have a straight edge?

[@alexrussell5980]

Where is this available

[@hybridamerica]

Why couldn't you brush on Mapei's Aqua Defense?

[@sundew2007]

Aqua Defense does not have fibers to reinforce and seal seams. It is more of a thick paint.

[@enzochiapet]

Heh Matt, could I go ahead and build a brick house in the South if I do this?

[@lb7wade518]

Are termite’s included in your bug term?

[@imwteach]

Looks like it would have come out better if you would have used an automotive style body filler spreader for the final smooth out.

[@michaelbrackett644]

I used this stuff on on our house build. It really is a good material, but really expensive.

[@vanessaoseguera2583]

How much was it per sausage?

[@michaelbrackett644]

Vanessa Oseguera It is about $21 + shipping, but it takes several on a whole house. I remember spending over $1,000 on their products, maybe closer to $1,500.

[@vanessaoseguera2583]

Thanks Michael! I think it worth it just knowing that the house will be better air sealed AND that its a barrier for bugs and ants. Thanks for for sharing the price info!

[@michaelbrackett644]

Vanessa Oseguera No problem, I know it was difficult finding info on some of this stuff. Here is the sausage gun we used www.amazon.com/Albion-Engineering-Sausage-Caulking-Gun/dp/B07CTKX5H5. We built a DIY passive solar last year and we love it!

[@eduardodedios8213]

Michael Brackett thanks for your info, these videos never mention the prices when they know that’s a huge factor

[@micahasher7600]

Before he grabbed the brush I was like 😨 but it looks good 👍

[@dfj555]

What about using a 4-inch sticky rubber membrane instead?

[@fojnica2226]

good way only for dry area not for non stop rain area...........wood need to bread behind i you close with silicon or ....you are wron for long term.............greetings from europe

[@polar898989]

I just watched your siding video where you mentioned the importance of draining. Wouldn't this prevent draining from happening?

[@eightfigs]

What would you do for a 1974 townhouse?

[@hybridamerica]

...or roll on Henry's 100% silicone roof coat?

[@michaelschoonmaker7170]

Matt, do you have Blue Wall on top of this product behind you?

[@buildshow]

+Michael Schoonmaker yes. That's Blue Barrier. We used both on this house.

[@london402]

Why both? Layered on top of each other?, as in layer 1 is pink, layer 2 is blue?

[@CountBeetle]

I used r gaurd outside a room on a concrete patio and it peeled? Does blue wall do the same?

[@RafaelPernia]

What if I have paper? Anything better to apply in that situation?