Fitting Tutorial: How to Adjust Armhole Depth on a Sewing Pattern

Learn how to adjust the armhole depth on a sewing pattern. In this video, Haley will help you diagnose your muslin and how to transfer the adjustment to your paper sewing pattern.
FREE! Download our fitting journal: promo.seamwork...
Check out all our sewing videos on our channel: / seamworkvideo
ABOUT US:
Hi, we're the folks behind Seamwork, a fun community that supports people (like us) who want to sew their own wardrobes. You can join us and get access to over 100 patterns, tools to help you plan your own wardrobe, lots of ideas in our monthly online magazine, and over 16,000 other sewists to nerd out with in our private community forum.
MORE FROM SEAMWORK:
Join us here: www.seamwork.com
Get a free sewing planner: promo.seamwork...
Read the latest issue: www.seamwork.c...
Follow us on Instagram: / seamwork
GET TIPS BY EMAIL:
FREE! Join Snippets: getsnippets.com/
SUBSCRIBE TO OUR CHANNEL:
/ seamworkvideo

[@joycesleeper5309]

This is exactly what I was looking for. It was so clear and easy to understand. Thank you Haley!

[@SeamworkVideo]

Glad it was helpful!

[@sarahjocker5059]

Very helpful indeed ❤

[@ntanderson2]

excellent explanation. So helpful.

[@SeamworkVideo]

Glad it was helpful!

[@dancetoday542]

I've watched a lot of videos on armhole depth adjustment, but i like your explanation that everything below the notches is in the armpit. That really helps me visualise. Thank you.

[@karinahinckley5048]

Thank you so much!! This is amazing! Seams that dig into the armpit are so annoying. Glad I can fix it now!

[@SeamworkVideo]

Yay! Glad to help!

[@carolkelleher269]

Wonderful. Thank you so much for showing how it's done.

[@SeamworkVideo]

You are so welcome!

[@sharonnickels2788]

Thank you for such a clear explanation to adjust the armhole. I now feel confident to do this.

[@goblinodds]

you're a lifesaver!!! thanks for this!

[@SeamworkVideo]

You're welcome! So glad it helped!

[@robinmazariegos1]

Fantastic explanation. Exactly what I was needing. Thanks so much. I am subscribing to your channel.

[@SeamworkVideo]

Awesome, thank you!

[@carriwik5542]

Thanks for the instructions. One question: when shortening the armhole in this manner, doesn't it shorten the bodice and sleeve? My instincts tell me to add the same amount back in beneath the armscye area. Can you clarify?

[@cagilkayan5671]

I am wondering the same thing

[@SeamworkVideo]

That will definitely depend on the garment. I would pin the length out on your muslin to see if you'll need to add the length back in below the armhole.

[@gertrudewelsh781]

Yes. You have to add it back below the armscye and adjust the bust point because now it will be higher.

[@sarahjocker5059]

Hello Seam work that was so so helpful to add on extra on the sleeve and bodice. So all I need is 2 cms to add and follow how you adjusted the pattern pieces. I didn't know this method was so straight forward. Thank you for sharing so helpful in many ways reduce or extend 😊😊

[@beatricevancroonenborg9465]

Super glad I saw this before I went merrily cutting out the fabric. Or I was going to just cut the armhole deeper. So thanks!

[@hannalindgren4114]

Thank you so much for making this tutorial! I'm making a mockup for a pattern I've bought, and the armhole is so tight it cuts into my armpit for some reason (thank goodness I made a mockup before starting on my more expensive fabric!). Very glad to have found a video explaining how to solve this in such great detail. Thank you!

[@SeamworkVideo]

Glad it was helpful!

[@gayprendergast7102]

Thank you so much for such clarity

[@SeamworkVideo]

Glad it was helpful!

[@SweetSourMiss]

Thank you so much! You explained everything wonderfully and clearly. I made a top today and the arm hole was cutting into my under arm - ouch!! But I loved everything else about the fit, so I’m going to adjust my pattern and make it again. Thanks so much for this video!

[@SeamworkVideo]

So glad you found it helpful!

[@mercyunselt2035]

Thank you very much... so informative

[@SeamworkVideo]

Glad it was helpful!

[@cd2street]

Awesome tutorial!! Just what I was looking for!! thank you so much XXX I want to widen the armhole depth on my pattern following your instructions. I do have one question (sorry if you mentioned it and I missed it) you said 1/4 of an inch makes a lot of difference but how much? My brain can't decide if it adds a 1/4 or 1/2 inch more depth? Can you please rescue my brain :)

[@SeamworkVideo]

It will add 1/4". It can help to make small changes incrementally, rather than large changes all at once. So start with a quarter inch, see if that solves your issue, and then if not add a small amount more. Hope that helps!

[@cd2street]

@@SeamworkVideo thank you so much XXX

[@kckazcoll1]

thanks for your clear instructions, Haley. I noticed that when I added the corresponding length to the sleeve, it became more puffy at the top. Can I reduce this without making it too small for the armscye?

[@SeamworkVideo]

If you send a picture of you in your muslin to [e-mail] we can try to help you troubleshoot!

[@kckazcoll1]

@@SeamworkVideo just saw your reply, thanks. Somehow I worked it out, but I may take you up on your kind offer if I have this issue at another time

[@troyjennenegibby9682]

Thanks for such great instructions. I do that same thing when I'm shortening/lengthening patterns but good to know where to slice it to get the best results. When grading the pieces I generally try not to cut-away when lengthening/widening in case I end up taking away too much. 1/4 inch isn't much but if you try increasing to 1/2 or more inches it does end up having a multiplier effect.

[@marthiejansevanrensburg5786]

Thanks

[@k2lar]

So helpful! Thanks.

[@SeamworkVideo]

Glad it was helpful!

[@kathleencarr2622]

This was super helpful, thank you! Could this easily be combined with a forward shoulder adjustment? I always have issues with armhole fitting in general, I have sensory issues and hate things digging in to my arm pits 😬and wasn’t sure if doing both would throw things off to much.

[@SeamworkVideo]

You definitely don't want to try too many fit adjustments all at once - we usually say no more than three because then it's hard to tell what worked, or what threw things off. Fitting is all about trial and error so you could try just the armhole depth adjustment, a forward shoulder adjustment on another muslin, and then a combo of the two to find which option is your favorite!

[@teresamiller4189]

Great video. I used your adjustment to raise the armpit seams up into my armpit and now I have wrinkles on the side of my bust. Suggestions?

[@SeamworkVideo]

Hi Teresa, you can send pics of you wearing the muslin to [e-mail] and we can try to help you troubleshoot!

[@olive5890]

This video is just what i needed, thanks! Question, I need to increase depth by 1in as i have a deep armhole, seems almost impossible to redraw for sleeve, any tips?

[@SeamworkVideo]

What issue are you running into when you redraw the sleeve?

[@olive5890]

@@SeamworkVideo Hi, thanks for getting back to me. As I'm increasing by 1in, each piece now points in completely different angles! I dont have a curved ruler but did my best by following your recommendation for going bigger rather than smaller but took off from both pieces...not sure it looks great...

[@clothingalterations]

Great tutorial 👍🌺🌿🏵☘🌻🌵🌹

[@SeamworkVideo]

So glad you liked it!

[@nicolamiddleton9918]

Thank you ❤

[@SeamworkVideo]

You're welcome 😊

[@uzmaagha4203]

Hi. Thanks for explaining so well. I also wanted to ask when there is a tightness across the upper bust then what has gone wrong and how can it be fixed?

[@SeamworkVideo]

In terms of upper bust tightness it could be a number of things and it is hard to say without seeing the garment. I would recommend checking out our Fit with Confidence class. It covers reading wrinkle to determine necessary adjustments. You can learn more here: www.seamwork.com/classes/how-to-fit-with-confidence/lessons/1

[@kazisanzidasara6417]

Thank you mam

[@barbaraferron7994]

Q:But won't this raise the bust point? I have a top that fits in the bust but is huge in the armsky and too wide at the shoulder point. I don't care if the sleeve stays the same size because i can gather it at the top to make a puff sleeve.

[@SeamworkVideo]

Depending on whether you are adding or taking away depth, your bust point can be effected. If you have a bust dart, you can adjust the dart point and redraw your dart legs after making the armhole depth adjustment.

[@DiemNguyen-pc3kd]

How do I know if I need to adjust to fit my arms holes as beginner?

[@AnnieWilks55]

Thanks for this Haley! I have a problem with princess seams where the seam is in the armhole. It always bags at the arm above the bust line. The bust fits fine. I’ve tried altering the seam line but I never get the right fit. Can you please help?

[@SeamworkVideo]

It sounds like the pattern is providing more fullness in this area than you need. I would use pins to pinch along the princess seam where you see the excess fabric to contour to your shape. Then transfer these new curves to your paper pattern.

[@hartsarah12]

Would this adjustment also affect the bust/waist landing?

[@SeamworkVideo]

Yes, it would move the bodice up or down by the amount you've added or taken away when you make the adjustment, which would effect where darts and waist are positioned.

[@stephaniepaterson6340]

This is really helpful, all armholes are too low on me. Just one thing…how do I know where to put the line on the back…will it effect the armhole? I’ve tried to do this before but somehow made the armhole too tight!

[@SeamworkVideo]

You'll use the back notches as a landmark! Draw in the line the same amount above the back notches as you did on the front notch.

[@gdabney97]

So I keep making a dress shirt, but it feels snug along the back, how would you suggest fixing that

[@SeamworkVideo]

It's very hard to say without seeing pictures of you in your muslin. We have a really useful members-only forum which is a great place to ask questions like this and get help from tons of really knowledgeable people. If you aren't already a member you can learn more here: www.seamwork.com/join

[@LA-mn7jr]

Doesn't this affect how high the neckline now sits? I just did this to my princess seam (that goes through the shoulder) and it lengthened the distance from shoulder to waist. Do i just cut that of the bottom of the pattern at the waist?

[@SeamworkVideo]

This adjustment is dropping the lower half of the bodice in order to make the armhole deeper. The shoulder is an unchanged anchor point with this adjustment, so the neckline won't move. It will drop the waist lower, so adjust that by removing some from the bottom of the pattern piece at the waist if you need to.

[@niccidee782]

The volume is so low, I had to turn on the closed captioning. Otherwise, thank you for the great tutorial!

[@MarieKolanda]

Doesn’t this raise the bust point and the length?

[@SeamworkVideo]

This would lower the bust point but wouldn't effect the length of a dart since a dart wouldn't intersect where you're adjusting. You would make this adjustment, and then adjust the dart positioning/length as needed.

[@chiara1745]

Thanks, but what if there are no notches?

[@SeamworkVideo]

Can you give me a little more info? Any commercial pattern is going to have front and back sleeve notches. If you draft your own you'll want to add those in as well.