SERGE LUTENS FAILS: Self-repetitions, utterly boring, unfriendly to legit weird fragrances

[@katarinasurac3695]

I subsribed to your channel because of your Serge Lutens review last year. I’m aware a lot can happen in a year… but for me Sheldrake’s work for Lutens is a pure art, as also the foundation for many, many fragrances that came afterwards. Shoutout to all those miracles in a bottles that spark the joy!! Whatever makes us happy!

[@alcoholicnun6841]

The Shiseido reformulation (black label) of Fleurs d'Oranger is truly a travesty. It was once this enormous, polarising, room-filling cumin-inflected lush floral nectar with a gorgeous juxtaposition between clean and filthy, but it's now quite a tame, pretty, inoffensive white floral with little to no cumin left... just neutered. Not unpleasant, mind you, it just feels devoid of character and dynamism now, like a bare skeleton.

[@MariaMeliora]

I have that one and completely agree, nothing to write home about.

[@Dukiduledoozy]

I couldn't agree more about the sanitization of FdO and I'm afraid I feel the same way about FdB, Fumerie Turque, and Tubereuse Criminelle. Fortunately, I haven't been able to smell the current versions of Muscs Khoublai Khan and Iris Silver Mist because I would probably have been devastated.

[@amandavelvet5410]

I agree. I have a 2007 bottle that smells NOTHING like the current version.

[@perfeptions_ENG]

For fleur d’oranger is really what the inspiration says “sweet orange blossom wind”. A warm spring night or day air smell in Mediterranean areas where intensive agricultural cultures of oranges are present. Grew up with that it’s a flashback to me. I’ve smelled a few and that one is the one that gets closer to that to my nose 😊

[@gintonique2387]

Ambre Sultan, Arabie, Serge Noire....you are dismissing all those SL gems, Maria, you are KILLING me! ;-) My husband wore Serge Noire as a signature scent (before it went into the ridiculously overepriced black skyscraper collection) and he really pulled it off. So sexy on him. To me, Ambre Sultan works as a true reference for amber scents. When I smelled Arabie in the SL Boutique in Paris, it really beamed me directly into the scenery of the spice market of Souq Waqif in Doha (spent 2 years in Qatar). This is so truly Middle Eastern spices and dried fruits; LOVE it! Anyway, perfume is very subjective, we all like different things, thank God, and it is so refreshing that you do not shy away from taking these holy grails of niche perfumery from their pedestials. Chapeau!

[@bonniel4325]

I agree the older packaging was so much more graceful with the paper label. I don't like the new packaging either. To me, vetiver is Terre d'Hermes. Also Guerlain Vetiver. I don't want to smell like bread, but if that sounds good to you, then Coco Mademoiselle is for you. The dry down of Coco Mademoiselle is pure yeasty bakery. I abhor it. I love La Religieuse, it's a soft refined jasmine with the most faint smidge of incense, to my nose. I don't get bleach at all. But I have the older bottle with paper label. For me, it is the classy, understated sister of Alien, if there is such a creature. I agree Feminite de Bois is lovely. Love your videos.

[@perroli]

Oh my! You pulled no punches with this one 😂 I collect Serge and I would agree with 99% of what you said. Ambre Sultan and Chergui are timeless to me. Cuir Mauresque I found to be absolutely horrific. Smelled like a bathroom soap from the 90s. Fourreau Noir is a masterpiece and probably my favorite from the house. Overall I find the quality of their scents to fluctuate a lot. You can get the most simple boring release, a completely unwearable mess or a true iconic perfume.

[@MariaMeliora]

I figured once in Rome - if I didn't have a large collection it would be just click bait , but I voted with my money 🫠😁

[@JT-rx1eo]

Well people have different noses. I've become a fan of Serge Lutens and am developing a collection. My full bottle collection so far: Gris Clair: love this lavender scent. Arabie: love this sweet spices and fruits scent. A walk through a desert bazaar. Santal Majescule: My favorite sandalwood frag now. Similar to the bakery accords of Jeaux du Peau. Ambre Sultan: I'm not a big fan of this type of Amber scent profile. Chergui: I have no problems with it. Five O'clock eu Gingembre: Very nice ginger scent. Not a fan of the performance. Rousse: I'm a big fan of cinnamon, but this cinnamon didn't impress me. La Couche de Diable: Just recently bought a full bottle. I like it. Theme-wise, it would make a better "Rousse" (redhead) than Rousse. Dent de Lait: I'm regretting my FB purchase. I'm not a fan of overly aldehydic scent profiles and this one is that. It needs more lactate to smooth it out. I don't get any blood or anything like that. I have a decant of Fille en Aguilles and want a full bottle. But even here it could use more dried fruits. I have a decant of Feminite du Bois and it's not for me. The Fragrantica AI says "Cumin note can be overwhelming for some"......yep. I typically have a great deal of trouble with cumin notes, and although no cumin or caraway notes are listed, there is no doubt that there is a prominent cumin-esq accord. And the whole thing is like woody shards of glass. No "plummy notes" as promised. I have a decant of Jeaux de Peau and love it. More full-on bakery than Santal Majescule. All in all, 40% hit rate for a house isn't too bad. For me, only Creed and maybe Tom Ford exceed that rate.

[@darkkstar5647]

I start with essential oils -- one can get vetiver essential oil and I first bought it before I even started back into perfume/fragrance for it's calming properties. But I love vetiver, even right out of the essential oil bottle LOL

[@breannacarels6479]

La Fille de Berlin did not work on my skin. Went salty / metallic very quickly. My skin tends to pull salty / powdery so unfortunately many fragrance become unbearable after just a few minutes. On the other hand I love their 2 jasmines that I have. Nuit de Cellophane is my perfect happy shampoo scent and I’ve recently picked up Fils de Joie and I’m enjoying that too. I’m not even a big Jasmine person. Finally, your reaction to Dent de Lait made me laugh. In my mind I put it beside Oxygene and often transition from one to the other in the same day. Thanks for the video!

[@perfeptions_ENG]

I love or like almost all of their creations ❤

[@oOWiasylOo]

I made a blind buy based on the reviews and got Clair de musc. What a disappointment. To me, the scent was just boring and strongly reminded me of The Body Shop's White Musk from the 90s, and it seems like everyone loves this scent. Tastes really are so different.

[@katarinasurac3695]

For me, Clair de Musc is one of the best musks out there. Haven’t tried new(er) versions, but I know I’ll cherrish my old Palais Royal bottle.

[@oOWiasylOo]

@@katarinasurac3695 I am sure there must be something about the scent, otherwise so many people wouldn't like it. Claire de musc and I simply are not compatible. 🙃

[@dieselboy77]

I sold my Chergui, tried to like it , wore it plenty times in different climate situation , ended up selling it . The tobacco note became way too harsh and scratchy

[@greeentealeaf]

LOL serge is really not your house!! i adore a few of the ones you covered but i agree Des Clous Pour Une Pelure, L’Eau d’Armoise, Jeux de Peau, and Fleur d’Oranger fell flat for me (especially Fleur after the reformulation, just a shell of its former self due to the animalic quality being removed)

[@Armani7885]

I agree, no interest in this house any more, Only sweet sweet 🎂 syrupy, vanilla, sticky,bleeeee

[@OphelieFontaine]

It seems, SL is NOT your brand 😂 I nearly love all of his scents. And every single one works on my skin ❤

[@TsiyonPrincess]

Serge Lutens is bomb and such a nonconformist. His creations are a breath of fresh air from the mundane, boring perfumes that are out today.

[@NazgulfromLOTR]

If oriental is an offensive word nowdays then so should "western" be. Jesus Christ people have too much time and are too bored these days. I feel EXACTLY like you about Ganymede and similar DNA's!

[@ekaterinaf2801]

I love for Fille en Aiguilles. since they tripled the price I've been looking for an alternative. The day I received Raghba wood intense ( 12 €) and I first sniffed it, I almost cried with relief🥹🌝🙏- liquorice instead of dried fruits, and less christmas tree, but overall quite close😉

[@MariaMeliora]

@ekaterinaf2801 oh wow! If not for licorice I would be sold too!

[@justaddlight]

Completely agree about Vetiver Oriental. As for Ambre Sultan, it's very incensy off of my skin and the sweetness is quite balanced, so I'm happy about that! I suppose that fragrance chose me? 🪄😂 Similar thing with Chergui. It's quite sweet but rather irisy on me. Love the stuff. Unfortunately, the hay-ish tobacco accord is the same one in D&G's Intenso, and it nags at me sometimes. 🤭 Making it an autumn exclusive. 👌