Series 1 C40 Dynamo rebuild

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This video is produced for entertainment purposes only and Britannica Restorations nor Michael Wesson and/or guests featured in this video shall not, in any way or measure, be held accountable or responsible for any damages related to attempted repairs as pictured in this video.
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Furthermore, Michael Wesson and/or Britannica Restorations are not responsible for the comments published by viewers of said video.

[@Badfinger7761]

I remember my old 1967 S2A came with a C40 dynamo and a positive earth system. I had to service it once or twice just like you showed in the video - not too complicated a task for a young newbie owner (at the time). Eventually I threw it over the neighbour’s fence, replaced it with a GM alternator, and never looked back!

[@grahameroberts8109]

Must be the same neighbour! 😂😂🙏🦘

[@Badfinger7761]

@@grahameroberts8109 Figuratively speaking of course with the neighbour’s fence! I do believe I held on to that old C40 for quite awhile afterward. 😆

[@stevecrutchley6434]

Perfect, a great help, especially fitting brushes end first so much easier .cheers

[@ColinMill1]

The trick to getting the brushes onto the commutator that is given the the Massey Ferguson 35 manual is to retract the brushes and lean the end of the springs against the side of the brushes. Then, when the dynamo is assembled you use a screwdriver to push the brushes towards the commutator and the springs will slide off the side of the brushes and adopt their correct position. BTW - if you have a source of the springs I would love to know. The 61 year old springs in my 35x are perhaps reaching the end of their life. Lucas stuff doesn't last 5 minutes 😀

[@BritannicaRestorations]

That's before they invented cable ties!

[@ColinMill1]

@@BritannicaRestorations It's only just after the invention of the wheel I believe 😄 having struggled initially I've got used to the "MF" method having had some practice - the poor dynamo is positioned to receive all the water running off the bonnet so it has a tough life - I can't fault it for needing some TLC every few years. The starter solenoid (also original) needed cleaning recently for the first time too. A punishing maintenance schedule.

[@MrRobmellor]

Absolutely great video mike. Nothing left unsaid. Many thanks, Yorkshire Rob.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Can't wait to get the 20 amps out of it!

[@rupertthomson]

Audio is much better with that new fuzzy microphone, nice one Mike!

[@jameskerr5756]

Looking good Mike. Bonus having the brushes and bearing in already.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Stroke of luck, but the Alternator/starter shop down the road can get brushes - just ordered a set for my starter

[@Indahchannel]

Saya sangat suka melihat video video anda Terimakasih saudaraku

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Terima kasih kembali!

[@Indahchannel]

@@BritannicaRestorations 👌

[@dannydavis1964]

Good video I've done a couple of hours in the past thanks Danny

[@BritannicaRestorations]

No problem 👍

[@sheepdogman1]

Excellent video Mike great tutorial

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks 👍

[@ianwright40]

That blaster is a game changer.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

It sure is!

[@JRattheranch]

I'll be interested to see how you reassemble the starter motor Mike! I seem to remember that we used 3/16 welding rods to hold the brushes off the armature, but that was well over 59 years ago, before factory service replacements were available! 👌

[@jamesward5721]

a "top tip" there is to grab some small cable-ties & cable-tie the brushes into the holders - then slip the brush assembly over a socket (out of yer socket set) that is the same diameter as the commutator. You can then cut the cable ties, hold the socket tight to the commutator & slide the brush assembly down into position with Zero faff, struggle or guff. Thank me later. :-)

[@jamesward5721]

That ^ btw works for every brushed motor you have to re-assemble. If you select a deep socket with a stepped profile, it's even easier as you only have to get the brushes onto the smaller diameter of the socket - as long as the larger diameter of the socket matches the commutator - slide the brush assembly down onto the larger diameter part of the socket & bingo - it now fits down over into position on the commutator easy as pie. Saves a lot of faff & fiddling.

[@jamesward5721]

Sockets also do away with "clutch alignment tools" once you know - grab a deep socket that is the same diameter as the clutch center - use that as the alignment tool - bang, perfect clutch alignment without the special tool. Sockets are handy for more than just opening bolts. . :-) They also do away with bearing-bushing specific press tools - grab a socket (usually out of your 1" drive set) that matches - use that as the driver - it handily already has the hole for the bolt to go through that you'll be using as "the pressure" - pwtdyg & all that. :-)

[@jamesward5721]

You should do a vid on brazing up breaks, cracks & holes in LR panels(If you've done one already, my bad, Mike. :-) I'd a defender in today with a messed-up roof corner - the owner had it "fixed" somewhere else but it started leaking again soon after. I blasted all the crap out of the section, back to bare ally & brazed up the cracks/splits & holes using just a mapp torch/ally repair rod - owner watched going "WTF??" as he'd been loads of places & nobody wanted to touch it beyond stuffing the area full of fiberglass/filler & schmoo (which is what got done & failed). He'd no idea it could be put back as strong as new so easily (and it ended up strong as - once you get proficient at it, it's a great repair) Once I ground everything smooth, you'd be hard pressed to know it had been touched - bit of primer & some paint & the repair vanished. I seldom if ever see/have seen a video on this (might just be me being slow/dopey) - but I think loads of LR owners would find it very helpful. :-)

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I made my 130 doors this way with the aluminium 'soldering' Worked well IF you make lap joints - butt joints were not very strong

[@jamesward5721]

@@BritannicaRestorations I think it comes down to technique - at first I regarded them as junk as everything broke easily - I chucked them aside for months. Then I went back & delved deeper on how to use them properly - I see loads of "Reviews" where people say the rods just crumbled & didn't bind at all - I get exactly what they are experiencing,but it is because they don't know how to use them - like I didn't. There's a very specific technique to use & it takes a bit of getting used to - but once you do, it's a bloomin revelation - suddenly they grip like crazy & it all makes sense. :-) Even on butt joints.....

[@SalomaoFresco]

Nice job. Last year I've done a very similar job on a DC motor at my workplace. The resemblance to that dynamo is uncanny, the bracket is just a tad different but even the paper inside was crumbling like that. Tata

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks for the info!

[@davidyendoll5903]

I think a dynamo is absolutely identical to a DC motor in design .

[@SalomaoFresco]

@@davidyendoll5903 yeah, I know. What I was refering to was the actual case, layout and overall appearence.

[@dannydavis1964]

Sorry that was meant to have said a couple of those Thanks Danny

[@donnysweekendvanlifetravel7854]

A great vid and series thanks Mike donny

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks Donny!

[@Oufg103f]

Nice job 👍

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks 👍

[@ralphdadge302]

Missed part of the rebuild as the bench camera was zoomed in to far, couldn't see what you were doing

[@gazzafloss]

They're the best jobs Mike, the ones that are done by someone knowledgeable, skilled/reliable and cost is nowt, i.e. do it yourself, nice job. Is it still -30° outside?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

-2c tonight - I have a sweat on! Lol!

[@gazzafloss]

@@BritannicaRestorations-2, positively balmy. +30 to 33°C in Cairns at moment, THEN you'd have a sweat on 😂🏖️🌅🌞.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I did when I was there 30 years ago!

[@GibbyinOZ]

Nice one m8 jobs agood'un Gibby in OZ

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Cheers!

[@davidyendoll5903]

So what happens when water get in , I mean this is a go anywhere vehicle , Mike ? I assume there is no waterproofing kit , else you would have said . I had no issues with my bike and , as you know full well , the UK weather is wet . My bike's dynamo was fitted low and to the front of the engine .... the worst possible place imaginable . Mind you it was a Boshe unit not a Prince of Darkness one ! I know I keep mentioning my bike , but , well Laverda bikes are in many ways like a Land Rover ! A tad quicker and only two wheels , but built to last !

[@BritannicaRestorations]

If you look at the front pulley on the dynamo it is like an impeller, drawing air from the back and forcing it through the body, so I suppose if you are in deep water, A) you will be half drown by the amount of water in the vehicle, and thus the dynamo is the least of your problems, or B) it should dry itself out if kept running, which I doubt, as water will be all over the ignition system anyway! Lol!

[@davidyendoll5903]

@@BritannicaRestorations I remember an old video of an Army test where they put a snorkel on either a jeep or a Landy and drove it submerged in some lake . They had waterproofed the spark plugs , that I do remember for sure . Probably the exhaust was snorkelled as well . But I don't remember the charging circuit or starter getting waterproofed . Also those expeditions down Panama way which used Land Rovers in the first years and then Discoveries ( which had to be rescued by Landies anyway , lol ) had to have been pretty water resistant ; the water was above the drivers nuts !