Serious water stone sharpening

Naniwa Super Stone #220 and Naniwa Chosera Stone #3000. They are needed to sharpen a 3V convex edge knife.

[@virtuovice]

Yes. We should go to their gallery before getting a burl handle. It is the best place where we decide to get the one or not. I always stey there for a couple of days before the purchase. If my greed burns up, I need to get it. If not, it is not mine. Alcohol always pushes the buy button, and next morning I regret it a bit. Generally regular wood is less regrettable in my case. Thank you.

[@AnthonyFister]

Totally ZEN. Months ago I made some strops for myself and gave a few away to some friends that also share my knife addiction. Last week I just tried sharpening on water stones for the first time. I have found that much like the peace and solitude that I have while deer hunting, I am finding the same type of zen feeling while sharpening and stropping my knives. I totally love it. And I do enjoy watching you and the DBK guys bring a good knife to hair popping sharpness. I was thinking that it would be totally cool to see a blade under the microscope after sharpening on each of the stones and then after stropping with black and again with white compounds. I wonder if you already have a video such as this.

[@virtuovice]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWq5n41tmKqHh9U This might help you.

[@AnthonyFister]

That's exactly what I was looking for. Very informative. Thank you very much.

[@virtuovice]

I had used the big green carbide #220 stone for a long time. It was extremely soft and soon took a deep hollow shape. Then I upgraded it to Shapton #120 and Naniwa Super #220. Thanks.

[@zeroed4x]

Thank you for a very informative tutorial. I'm going to use water stones exclusively for my sharpening.

[@TheRunereaper]

Thank you for taking the trouble to find out. Thank you, as well, for remembering to check the line. I had assumed that Shapton only made one type of stone but there was no reason for that assumption, particulaly as Naniwa make several. Thanks again Doc.

[@YasumotoUS]

Seeing the results of the Naniwa stones on the two 3V knives was valuable. And, yes, the handles are beautiful.

[@virtuovice]

I am a dedicated deer hunter and always do field dressing. So my top 5 knives are all for that purpose. Bark River Rampless Gunny, Fox River, Classic Drop Point Hunter, BlackJack M-125, Fallkniven TK2 almost definitely.

[@jearamie1980]

Thank you... With your advice I'm debating on which knife to buy next... Believe me this will not be an easy choice cause you have a lot of excellent knives and reviews... Thank you...

[@yebonuts]

Those are some beautiful blades!

[@rwmagnus]

I’ve recently subbed your channel. I agree with re-profiling the grind. If you really want to finish it out keep going up the grits 6000; 8000; 10000 & 12000. Only do 10K & 12K for a mirror shine. All the previous scratches will be gone. My only regret is seeing the makers mark get removed. In the end I’m all about the edge. It’s a tool and I want my knives to perform. My favorites are A2 followed by O1. Just not sold on super steels like 3V. Love the Bark River and LT Wright knives.Love your vids.

[@jackruss4]

Wako San: if you are going through 5 sheets of paper just to profile one knife ,I will start investing in fujistar and Niken , tomorrow morning! A suggestion is to first cut with an super large grit size. Anything under 120 grit. Will do the job. Just that you will have to use many grits to erase that heavy a grit size. I reprofile other sharp tools that require much more convexing than a knife blade. One or two sheets would be the maximum to use.

[@virtuovice]

It is Nagura stone which entirely makes slurry which comprises something like 5.000 grit abrasive particles. It makes sharpening feel better and its speed a bit faster. Thanks.

[@jearamie1980]

Thank you... I liked the orange and gold maple burl at KSF... But all beautiful knives... I kinda like the desert iron wood also...

[@booserobert]

Thanks for video, enjoyed very much...

[@joslevin9093]

I love your work. Thankyou for sharing it with us, you are truly a master sir. I don't know where you get your stones from, but I live in Wales and can't get them. Thankyou again.

[@NandoKleijn]

Knivesandtools.co.uk

[@magikl1]

I learn alot watching your videos, I bought a new knife Sykco 511 the steel is SR101 and it says it has Slightly Convex Saber Grind but I don't know what this means or how to sharpen it myself. I like the idea of the water stones and will buy some. Thank You

[@stefanwolf88]

I think the small re-curve portion near the handle /after your water sharpening/ can be a problem in future sharpening - is making a groove with a round file an option for you to make sharpening easier or this re-curve does not bother you?

[@chemicallust77]

If William Shatner were Japanese...

[@DMBVR4]

lmfao.... awesome

[@jorgecarrizalesjr6589]

chemicallust77 BRILLIANT

[@jearamie1980]

I completely understand wanting to buy more then one knife... I'm currently going crazy for Fallkniven... But have wanted to start my BR craze... Yes burl is a beautiful and damaging it is not my idea... I will definitely be buying more then one BR... Thank you...

[@timothyehonea]

I think a buffing wheel and some polish compound would put a like new factory look back into the metal. It can also be used as a power strop. I think you would like it.

[@jearamie1980]

Thank you for the video... What stones would your recommend for reprofiling and sharpening Fallkniven Lam VG 10 and their 3G steel...

[@virtuovice]

I have experienced King, regular Naniwa, Shapton, Naniwa Super, and Naniwa Chosera stones. The geometry of the F1 is very fat and if you need thin geometry like Bark River A2 Gunny on it, Naniwa Super Stone #220 will be needed. To polish the bevel and sharpen the edge, we need Chosera #800 and #3000. Chosera #2000 seems a bit coarse for hard steels like 3G for before stropping. By the way I think 3G F1 is for the same purpose as 3V Bravo1. They primarily need fat geometry for a survival purpose.

[@huntergreen99]

Yes, Wako sir, very good and so very true that this is relaxing. I enjoy very much as well. Thanks for all the correspondence through email. It is appreciated. This is Mark in Kentucky, USA, and I just wanted to know if the 220 was better than the other small grit ? Plus, what was total time again ? Oh, and one more thing sir, is it hard to make micro-bevel ? Thanks Wako my friend. Very beautiful job.

[@xSHIELDBREAKERx82]

Beautiful knives, I must say. I have looked at purchasing one for myself and while not in my budget at this time I plan to get one with black/white ebony handles. I think I like the Fox River model as well. Any recommendations for a model that could fulfill everyday use as well as hunting tasks?

[@virtuovice]

What you mean strongly suggests Gunny Elmax the geometry of which is as nice as A2 Gunny the bevel of which is a simple shallow convex plane. Thanks.

[@Thetinebroken]

Wako, what is yout opinion of adding swedge? Obviously you have not been doing it while having ramps removed. On the just right gunny what do think? DI#3 @ DLT? Im greedy also. Thanks for your opinions

[@jearamie1980]

Thank you... My next Fallkniven will be the TK2 and I want to have high quality stones for a high quality knife but be able to sharpen my other fallkies as well... Also I don't have any Bark Rivers... As a big game hunter and outdoorsman which Bark River would you suggest as my first...

[@stevenrs11]

A while ago, a (rather affluent) friend bought me the entire set of naniwa super stones, and I have to agree, getting a great edge on a knife is a pleasure in and of itself. That said, I feel like I am fumbling around with a set of tools which are far better than my experience is capable of using to their full potential. Can you recommend a good way to learn the *right* way to sharpen knives? I don't want to learn bad habits, and I don't mind inventing time learning. Is there a book or something that is considered the authority on water stones I should be looking for or something?

[@virtuovice]

I learned my sharpening from a deer hunter whose job for money is a barber. Thanks.

[@virtuovice]

I didn't know of Nubatama. I don't see it in Japanese market. Thanks.

[@SvetlioOD]

Hello, I like your videos a lot they are always useful. I just have one quesstion about sharpening stones: If you can take only 2-3 sharpening stones what grids will you chose to be most universal (180#,2000#,3000#) ok?

[@virtuovice]

Svetoslav Dimitrov #180 is very coarse and right for relatively large chip restoration or such. For micro chip restoration #400 should be coarse enough.You won't be able to skip #1000. It depends on your preference which you choose #2000 or #3000, or the both for finishing. Thanks.

[@andrisig33]

@virtuovice, although you liked the Falkniven F1 at first, you didn’t like it that much anymore after extensive use. The problem seems to be it doesn’t have an entirely convex form from the edge to the spine. That makes the edge sharpening difficult, right? Also you have switch over to tougher, harder, finer steel since you use it for Deer hunting having strong bones, that dull the edge. You have much experience with sharpening the F1, what water stone combination would you recommend? Thanks!

[@virtuovice]

The maple burl is beautiful. But as a matter of fact, if you get a burl handle at first, you will get to need another regular wood handle soon. The other order will also happen anyway. They have a new batch of Classic Drop Point Huner of which handle has great ergonomics as Gunny. Regular wood and burl wood are different to me. Regular wood seems more on user side to me. I am addicted to Bark River wood handles. Thanks.

[@virtuovice]

Your observation is very precise. All of my 3V Fox River have a slight recurve from the factory. So I cannot make a zero grind edge on the handle side of the recurve. I won't use that portion in the field and don't take it seriously. Thanks.

[@virtuovice]

G10 is 172 grams. Micarta is 154 grams. Wood is 140 grams. Wood feels light. Micarta feels just right. G10 feels heavy. I personally love the warmness and the beauty of wood for my Bark River knives. But wood shrinks after years and sometimes takes cracks. Birch wood bends and detaches in high probability. So generally speaking Micarta will be the most preferable. But please take a look at Osage Orange at KSF, Cocobolo#4 ad DLT, Cocobolo#4 at TKC. I personally like those grain.Thanks.

[@jearamie1980]

Very nice top five... I noticed that the BJ 125 is a 5" blade... Have you tried the Fallkniven S1 which is 5.18 of a inch long... Fallkniven says its their best hunting knife... I value your master knowledge when it comes to these beautiful knives and I would like to see a review on the S1... Thank you...

[@TheFiendRacer]

Hello virtouv I'm planning on sharpening with whetstones as I think it's superior compared to jigs what grit would u recommend. I was thinking 240,1000,3000? Is that good? Also what brand is good and not too expensive. Thank you and keep up the videos.

[@virtuovice]

+TheFiendRacer If you plan to reprofile a V edge, you need Chosera 400. If you don't, you need Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku 1000, 2000, and Chosera 3000. They are the best stones among choice. Thanks.

[@TheFiendRacer]

thanks a lot ill look for those

[@Thetinebroken]

Also thanks for FR 3V DIB WL BP... LOVE IT DLT!!

[@virtuovice]

I ever owned the S1. Its grind is starting from a low line and its edge angle is too large for game dressing. It's a survival knife or chopper angle. And it has no choil for choking up and its blade is too long for efficient power transfer and precise cutting needed in game dressing. BJ125 has a generous choil and works like a 4 inch blade by choke up pinch holding same as Fox River. Thank you.

[@jearamie1980]

Thank you... if you don't mind... What's your top 5 knives...

[@CraftingDepths]

what a nice video! may i ask: when using sandpaper for sharpening/reprofiling, how often do you chance your sandpaper? i feel like my sandpaper gets 'flat' after very few strokes... thanks!

[@TheRunereaper]

Doc, I have your suggested 400, 800,2000 + strop set. I think it's an excellent all-round compromise but for reprofiling or very blunt / damaged edges you are right again in that we need something coarser. The choices are numerous. Currently, I use a portable belt sander mounted in a vice but I would like to use the 120 Shapton. The one you have is ... BIG! Not available at Global Rakuten & only 15mm thick from Dieter Scmid in Germany. Do you have any suggestions please? Many thanks.

[@virtuovice]

Shapton says the 24mm thick version is only for domestic market. I think the stone quality of 24mm is the same as Hanokuromaku 15mm thick stone. Thanks.

[@andrisig33]

I have the Fallkniven F1 and A1 hence the question. I have also some other pocket knives, but no need to list them all. I do like the Bark River knives as well. They are very beautiful and seem to hold up very well, even doing the tough job you put them through. But they are expensive like most beautiful and very well performing knives having high end steels. I hope you will make a list of suggested sharpening stones. Naniwa Chosera stones are sold in The Netherlands, but what grits?

[@virtuovice]

120 and 240 paper are coarser than Chosera 400. After 1500 paper you need the black compound because the black compound is around 3000 grit. The white compound is over 5000 grit apparently but polishes the bevel extremely fast. Thanks.

[@sunaJH]

Thank you for a very informative video-arigato gozaimasu

[@carebear8762]

One of the Corpsmen in my Recon unit here in Alaska was a professional guide. He carried an easy half-dozen knives plus, of varying sizes, for caping out trophies. Your usual hunting selection isn't large at all, considering. :)

[@charlescooperderose8872]

I have the Shapton 120 Honakurumako, I think I spelled that wrong. But anyway, is there a certain name for your Shapton 120 that you have? Like mine is the Honakurumako, is there a particular place you can recommend I get one like yours? I love the stone it works very good. My 120 Shapton tends to get smoothed and almost polished after I lap it with Sandpaper. Do you have a particular method of lapping your 120, without polishing the working surface? I noticed that my 120 tends to work better for different steels then others, so maybe I just need to spend more time with it and set my natural Omura stone down for a while lol.

[@rockets4kids]

The "Shapton Pro" and "Shapton Ha No Kuromaku" are generally regarded to be the same stones. The "Pro" is just the name used on the stones officially imported into America. I believe the thicker 120 stone mounted to the wood base is part of the "M24" series. While these are very similar to the Pro/Kuromaku stones they are not the same.

[@charlescooperderose8872]

rockets4kids oh wow thanks for that info. You mean they are not made the same at all?

[@rockets4kids]

@@charlescooperderose8872 In the grand scheme of things the Pro/Kuromaku and M24 stones are very close, but they are not the same.

[@inthemwoods523]

Have you considered a worksharp Ken Onion sharpener for sharpening? It uses different grit belts to make a convex edge, it also has a blade grinding attachment you might find interesting. Though to be honest, I also love sharpening with stones, though I use oil stones.

[@evanmacaluso3738]

Hello Wako, is that the LT version Fox River or standard? I am looking at the 3Vs on Knives Ship Free and the knive does not look the same. I prefer the all wood handle that yours has to the ones shown on Knive Ship free with the Steel bolster. Your input would be appreciated. Also can you recommend a good hunting blade that also has a gut hook. I have found them very helpful for skinning wild boar here in Texas. Thank you.

[@virtuovice]

+Evan Macaluso knifejournal.com/showtopic.php?fid%2F11%2Ftid%2F810%2Fpid%2F1806%2Fpost%2F1806%2F#1806 Fox River 3V is now on water jet cutting, so you will need to wait for 4 to 6 months. I have no experience with the gut hook. Thanks.

[@huntergreen99]

Also, I ordered a Shapton 12-K from Japan, it will arrive November 5th, do you think I will be happy with that 12-K brand ? Or in your opinion good purchase ? And no, I was not bored watching very long video. Like you say, you had something to say. Haha. Thanks for sharing Wako, I enjoy all ur videos. Mark :)

[@EarlLedden]

Finally the stones are not moving while using them! 'What is the material that you place under the stones?

[@gwyrion7039]

Hello, I am very new to knife sharpening, and I just have an American stone, so I am not experienced in choosing better stones. What would you recommend that isn't too expensive? I have found combination 1000 and 6000 stones for a good price, but would you suggest a smaller jump in grit?

[@virtuovice]

Gwyrion Schiber Less expensive stones have even less performance. If you need to sharpen your outdoor knives, you need to use Chosera #400, Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku #1000, #2000, and Chosera #3000. They sharpen 10 times faster, easier, and better than regular combination stones. Thanks.

[@powerlinegf]

Gwyrion Schiber You should try the Norton water stones. You can find them on sharpeningsupplies.com

[@angerboy2957]

If i have a cheaper combination stone with 1000 and 8000 grit and i can only get 1 chosera stone, which one would you recommend? I was thinking 3000 grit chosera? Thank you and i appreciate your videos

[@virtuovice]

angerboy2957 Chosera cuts 10 time faster than regular kitchen combination stones. But a single 3000 finishing grit does almost nothing. You need 1000 sharpening grit as well at least. If possible, you need 400 restoring grit. Thanks.

[@lexoutdoors4486]

If you ever decide you don't like one of your fox rivers just let me know. Love the design of that knife. I would also love to compare your edges to my own.

[@magikl1]

Forgive my ignorance about this subject, but what is 21:19 is that part a metal shaving? I really enjoy your videos.

[@southerncross100]

In my experience, with the same refinement of the edge, 3V is significantly tougher than A2 & isn't that much harder to resharpen than A2 (that's right, resharpen & not just strop a still sharp blade). Consider the additional abrasion resistance of 3V over A2 and ask yourself if a manufacturer who makes both will spend the extra time needed to refine the edge on a 3V compared to a A2 blade? Might explain the difference Wako continues to notice between the A2 & 3V versions of the same knife.

[@virtuovice]

I am afraid I cannot understand DI#3. Anyway I once owned a swedged Bravo1. It looked cooler at first but soon I changed my mind and I prefered a regular version for its cleaner design. I now have many rampless Gunnys and every single one has no swedge. Bravo1's swedge has a flat top and it is just aesthetic. I don't think I need a false back edge on my practical Bark River knives at all. Take care!

[@Fredddoh]

you know your chosera 400grit stone, did you ever try the naniwa version? the big 'green brick'. Seems to have good reviews on it.

[@virtuovice]

320 will not do aggressive reprofiling from a high line while it will do regular convexing from a V edge. 1000 is needed between 600 and 1500 to polish up the bevel like a mirror. White compound is needed to make a razor edge. Thanks.

[@virtuovice]

Hanokuromaku line has the largest variety of grits of all their lines. But they are provided all in 15mm thickness even in Japan. I suspect Hanokuromaku line will have better quality than the other lines because a dealer explains Hanokuromaku is the top line in Shapton. Thanks.

[@virtuovice]

To grind off half a milli of the steel will be a tough job. You will defintely need to start with Shapton #120. Thanks.

[@virtuovice]

Sandpapers make a convex bevel even with hard backing. If you always need a convex bevel, sandpapers do the same thing as water stones do. 120/240/320/600/1000/1500 will do everything we need to do. Naniwa Chosera 3000 stone is harder and finer than 2000 and better for making a flat bevel to hard steels. We don't need to use the black compound after 3000. The white compound is enough to polish up the bevel after 3000. The white compound doesn't make the bevel convex. Thanks.

[@mettlemane]

Dr. Wako, im making a knife from o-1 steel. I left the bevel rough about a half millimeter large per side. Im going to harden and then finish the bevel. Its a flat grind about 15 millimeters wide. What stone would you suggest? Ive seen you use shapton and chosera. Price and wear considered, what would you buy?

[@virtuovice]

You are right. Only removing its factory made micro bevel doesn't make it as sharp as Bark River knives. If you want to regrind the whole bevel, 120 or 220 grit will be needed. But just for getting rid of its factory made micro bevel 400 grit is the best not to ruin its beautiful edge line. I think using #80 or #120 sandpapers only to reduce the back convex bevel just before the edge line will save your money. Only the edge line should be done carefully with 400/800/2000 stones. Thanks.

[@virtuovice]

Definitely Convex in a quality steel. I assume a large earthquake will attack us and the electricity supply will go down. I will need to make firewood from a broken house in coldness. Convex splits wood much better. Bark River's 3V steel and convex geometry is the best for that purpose I believe. So I have a 3V Bravo1 not for hunting but for survival purpose. Thanks.

[@virtuovice]

Sandpapers get flat soon. I remember I needed 5 sheets or more of coarse papers to reprofile a 1095 carbon steel bevel. Thinking of the 3V hardness, the paper amount will go huge. Thanks.

[@virtuovice]

Fallkniven TK2 has nice bevel geometry and just removing its micro bevel is enough to give it the keenest edge. In Bark River knives Rampless Gunny in A2 tool steel will be the best hunting/camping knife which doesn't have fat geometry and won't have a micro bevel in high probability. A2 is on tough side and not on hard side. So its regrinding/sharpening/stropping is very easy and keeps its edge pretty long. DLT and KSF will give you the ramp removal for free. Bravo1 is a bit too large. Thanks.

[@Thetinebroken]

Wako, What did you rub on the 3000 stone? Also I respectfully retract my request to remove waterstone marks on 3V....it is hard steel who has time for that my side strop worked good enough. Also I picked up the SSH FR ....Rosewood burl just got married. Thank you.

[@ChuckRichardsHandmadeKnives]

Excellent vid!!!

[@kurtkrueger5622]

very clean, Great job.

[@virtuovice]

KSF and DLT have many pieces of Gunny in Desert Ironwood. BRKT seems like having supplied them recently. The photos on KSF shows the square handle more clearly. You will need to ask DLT about it before the purchase. It can be an illusion of photography. Take care!

[@RoyFernbach]

You must have 50 knives and 10 water-stones by now... maybe more. You have probably spent more than $10k for your hobby, I am amazed at that alone. Love your videos tho.

[@Thetinebroken]

Hello Jason, Thanks for info. One thing I would offer is the actual color of the BRK photos of wood almost never match the real daylight color of handle do to digital photography metering etc. Just changing background color from white to black completely changes photo with no adjustments to camera. Im sure you know. But true color is very important.

[@jelajemi]

I have a question, do you have good Crystolon or carborundum oil stones such the American Norton 120 or 220 grit stones in Japan? If so could mention some good brand? One more question, what do you think gives a better edge, the white river compound, the naniwa 12000 super stone or the naniwa chosera 10000?

[@virtuovice]

I have never seen such American stones selling in Japan. I cannot make a better edge with fine stones like 10k than with the white compound loaded strop. I have such fine stones just for polishing up bevels shiny. Thanks.

[@jelajemi]

Thank you vituovice, I am going to get the white compound.

[@Mikelectric]

what qualities do you like in the finish of the blade? I noticed that although you reached a mirror finish, it appeared patchy and scratched. (I found it quite beautiful)

[@virtuovice]

+Michael Cousins I don't need complete mirror finish but just shiny finish. So I don't care about the scratches. In case the edge takes micro chips, I need to sharpen it again from a low grit. I save time and don't intend complete mirror finish. Thanks.

[@Mikelectric]

+virtuovice that's badass.

[@gr3g0rSamsA85]

which stones would you recommend me for sharpening my kabar bk24 ? im amateur on sharpening and a lil bit scared of the stones :) thank you in advance

[@virtuovice]

+exmas2006 Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku 1000, and 2000 stones will serve you. Thanks.

[@Thetinebroken]

Thank you for your thoughts. I have wanted Desert Ironwood #3 at DLT but the picture makes handle look square cornered as you have showm

[@AlikKra]

Great videos

[@Lorbera]

Just as a general question, how is the knife community in Japan? Hunters and outdoorsmen, or a lot of general enthusiasts? I know the law is very strict, but one can enjoy a knife very much in the comfort of his own home.

[@garythompson1371]

I see that the face of your knives are now scuffed up. Mine are also scuffed. How can I get the face of the knives scuff free? I have stropped with black and still can not get it out.

[@Thetinebroken]

The 3V Fox Rivers and FR Recurves may of came from the same blanks. It seems that a lot of that flat spine stayed with the regular Fox Rivers. IMO

[@virtuovice]

Now I use Shapton #120 for total bevel reprofiling unless I need to use a belt sander. And even after a belt sander I use Shapton #120. It makes decent scratches and I use Naniwa Super #220 to reduce them. I have Shapton #5000 and natural Shouhonzann #10k but have never used them yet. Anyway I will use those fine stones to polish up bevels not to make the sharpest edge. Thanks.

[@crf450rbulletdavid9]

I have a question? Do you do zero grinds on all of your hunting knives? I mean you get rid of the micro bevels?

[@GoldBold563]

crf450r bullet david I believe you may mean secondary.

[@virtuovice]

I have 25 Bark Rivers and 25 others for field deer dressing.

[@Thetinebroken]

I am happy to know it thanks. I hope you also will be happy to know that the exact same thing keeps happening way over here....see you...

[@ArimaKihe1]

Hi Virtuo-san, I'm after a good quality Japanese water stone to sharpen my (olf) kitchen knives. I'm not looking to reprofile the edge just sharpen the knives and maintain the edge. Can you recommend a good (Japanese) brand and grit(s) for about 15,000 Yen total cost? My friend is in Japan and can send the stones to me. Thank you :-)

[@virtuovice]

+ArimaKihe1 Shapton Ha-no-kuromaku 1000, 2000, 5000 are highly recommended. www.hamonokougu.com/page043.html You will be more satisfied with Shapton M24 1000, 2000, and Chosera 3000. www.ippintei.com/page263.html#m24 www.ippintei.com/page668.html

[@ArimaKihe1]

Arigatou gozaimasu! I'll check those out (Y)

[@Nobo4y568]

Where is the best place to buy Chosera Waterstones? thanks in advance

[@mpalestini]

At 18:07 you use a white rock to add to the slurry. I forgot the name of those stones but I know they are very helpful when sharpening at high grit. They add abrasive right?

[@virtuovice]

mpalestini They add abrasive when the honing stone is a natural fine one. In case of an artificial fast stone I don't feel they do it but just make the sharpening feel smooth.

[@Will.2V]

Nagura stones I believe

[@jawadibrahim2367]

+Gafilta Turtle yes

[@greenwood4020]

+mpalestini Look for the colour change in the stone and listen to the sound. He went to a much finer stone (= smoother sound) and prepped it with a softer small fine nagura stone to work up a "slurry of mud' to aid in the next phase which is more refining of the edge than removing metal like with the earlier larger grit stones. Think of grit sizes like "number of particles of grit per inch" the more particles per inch means they are each smaller and therefore give a finer scratch pattern that also means they remove less metal and you get a more polished finer edge How far you take this towards a mirror finish depends on the use to which you put your knife. A hunting knife like his Bark river 3V needs an edge for the robustness of hunting. Where as a sushi knife requires a very very fine edge but it is delicate and can't be used for rough tasks or hitting bones etc a hunting knife needs to do.

[@dtrano]

Wako, where do you buy these knives? will they ship to Australia?

[@virtuovice]

Yes. KnivesShipFree, DLT Trading, The-Knife-Connection are international dealers of Bark River.

[@yokohamalion]

When will Wako-sama start making his own knives? It is the logical next step.

[@MrBrentles]

Thank you. Very informative

[@virtuovice]

I already confirmed 3V stands against bone touching of my fiedl deer dressing in this small angle. I don't assume the edge will take micro chips. I also confiemed that the factory angle is uselessly dull for my field deer dressing. I am sure that 3V Fox River needs total bevel reprofiling before using it in the field. I assume Its factory angle is larger than 30 degrees while A2 factory angle is smaller than 25 degrees. I made around 25 degrees in this video.Thanks.

[@Fredddoh]

thats true. I can't seem to find it anywhere else apart from american websites. But anyways. Ken (guy on the youtube link) seems to have quite liked this stone. I think its worth checking out

[@Cosy3rdDan]

How many knives do you own??

[@spacecats7832]

hello virtuovice, I plan on upgrading my king stones to shapton 1000,2000 and chosera 3000. but I am having trouble when to change stones. I have heard from one channel that I would know when to change stones when I don't feel the knife kind of dragging on the stone by instead just glide over it but wanted to see what you have to say. thank you

[@virtuovice]

For regular sharpening when the edge cannot return as sharp only by stropping, I start from Shapton 2000. It is just apex reset. When I need to remove micro bevels or minor nicks, I start from Shapton 1000. I pay 5 minutes at maximum on each stone. They are fast cutting stones. Thanks.

[@spacecats7832]

so shapton 2000 for regular sharpening and 1000 if your knife gets minor nicks.

[@virtuovice]

Yes. Shapton 1000 is evaluated as 600 to 800 grit. So Shapton has 1500 grit between 1000 and 2000. Thanks.

[@phimac10]

Very good. Thanks.

[@pktko1]

I was wondering, I would like to sharpen my katana with a whetstone however I can't find a good video about it. What kind of whet stone should I get?

[@Nonresponder01]

well if you want it as sharp as a sushi knife I'd say to start with a 1000, do that for about 20 min, then move up to 8000 for another 30 min. or until you reach your ideal sharpness. that should be plenty sharp though. maybe too sharp considering it's a sword and not a sushi knife.

[@virtuovice]

Naniwa Chosera 400/800/3000 stones will satisfy all your needs. When you need to restore major chips or do aggressive bevel reprofiling, you will need Shapton Hano Kuromaku #120 stone for that. Thanks.

[@SantoMuerte187]

Hey Wako, What grits would be good for my mora knife? I have 500/800/1000 Mexican clay water stones coming in would those be enough?

[@virtuovice]

I use Shapton Ha No Kuromaku #1000, #2000, and Chosera #3000 stones for almost all of my knife sharpening currently. They all cut by far the faster than other brands and the job is done within 10 minutes from start to finish. Shapton Ha No Kuromaku #1000 is just right for making edges including getting rid of micro chips. Chosera #3000 is just fine to finish up any steels. Shapton Ha No Kuromaku #2000 bridges them. I strongly recommend those 3 stones to people who need the keenest edges by themselves. Thanks.

[@SantoMuerte187]

Thank you forget info, I'll start looking for those online

[@SantoMuerte187]

*thank you for the info

[@boxerboy98]

Hello Wako, i was just wondering whats the point of having different grids?

[@virtuovice]

For bevel reprofiling and chip restoration #120~#400. For edge shaping #800~#2000. For bevel polishing #3000~#12000. When the steel is harder, more grits are needed. Thanks.

[@glytch5]

Did you mean different grinds? Virtuovice likes convex grinds, they are very strong, but they take a lot of skill to sharpen and maintain. This guy is one of the few who really knows how to do a good convex bevel, it is impressive to watch isn't it? I wish my push stroke was that consistent!

[@virtuovice]

Max Savino My comment before was kind of difficult to understand. For soft steels like O1 1000 and 2000 are enough before stropping. But for hard steels like 3V 3000 is needed after 2000 because stropping cannot eliminate the micro serration of the apex made by 2000. Hard steels are more difficult to take mirror polish. If we need it, we need to step up the grits without skipping. If we skip, the scratches made by the coarser stone cannot be eliminated by the finer stones to remain to the end. Thanks.

[@glytch5]

Some people like to skip grits and then strop ad polish,. you can get some very interesting and toothy results that way.

[@MysteryProductsLtd]

Thank-you.