Service Tutorial Ender - 3 S1 Pro X axis Leveling Adjustment

[@janetmorris6792]

Something not quite right in that video how did he raise the X gantry when the plugs were out of the stepper motors and he had detached the locked sync belt (screws Released) at the top, he then went on to plug in the motors and then re-affix the sync belt at the top

[@nachorepara]

Hi! At the finish of process, hoe tight or loose may be the wheels? It might be in contact with the guide, but must be moved with finger? Or what? Thanks!

[@mi20kel28]

Amazing tutorial! This process is actually super simple, if you know how to do it. I was able to get a super clean print after calibrating with the first method! Thank you

[@FMFvideos]

Thanks, I couldn't find this information anywhere else.

[@robmacd]

Each time you feel the wheels, what are you checking for? I assume they should be loose or tight at certain stages, but the video is unclear on when they should be in what setting

[@someonemaybe3947]

When you loosen the eccentric nuts check that the wheels can be moved without moving the height of the gantry

[@chriscsonka8960]

After doing the first version of this now my belt is loose. How do I tension it?

[@FastLoad]

There's a mistake here, after doing the eccentric nuts, you should not move the Z axis upward because the belt pulleys are still loose... you should fix the pulleys BEFORE moving the Z axis otherwise you will lose alignment.

[@leonyltupasan]

Thanks it i did the method 1 it improved my layer lines.

[@BrandonAbbott-t8q]

I recently upgraded my Ender 3 S1 Pro with Chowtoy ballscrews. The first two layers are immaculate, however, all layers after that are horrible. IT seems like the Z axis isn't moving like it should, like it's not turning the correct amount. This is leading to "squashed" prints with a horrible bumpy or stucco look to the finish. It's causing layer shifts and separation from the bed as the nozzle ends up dragging on the print the higher it goes. Does anyone have any recommendations because I've been working 6hrs+ a day for a week and I can't figure it out.

[@crealityafter-sale5706]

Hi, if you encounter any problems, please feel free to contact our after-sales service and they will help you solve the problem as soon as possible. (Official service email: [e-mail])

[@buzz819]

I've only been 3d printing a month or so. But sounds like adjusting the e-steps would help (extruder steps, called something different like "abc ratio" in the device menus. There are videos on the internet about it.

[@Aras3D]

I need this guide for Ender 3 V2 Neo.. I bought official Creality Dual Z axis kit and I want to use with better settings.

[@anbu94]

In this video it looks like the base where the glue sticks are sitting is flat. My S1 Pro has a contoured base making it impossible to sit something level.

[@hawx786]

After trying a number of times I always have an issue where at least one of the eccentric nut(s) is completely loose, making no contact. I would really appreciate some help on this. Also i cant manually move x axis down hy hand like in the video. It does move up by hand. I mived it down by the just spinning the silver couplings (assuming theyre called couplings).

[@Berzeger]

I have the same problem with the loose wheels - one of them is always looser than the others. :\

[@hawx786]

@@Berzeger I still haven't figured it out. I got with support and they sent me a huge list of potential issues and how to check. I haven't had the time to get into that, if i figure it out ill let you know. If you want I can copy paste their email in the comments here but obviously pictures wont show up.

[@jfsouza17]

They could have placed the z axis nuts on the sides, behind the axis it was very bad, there is no wrench that can reach this location easily

[@ESP_P1RA7A]

Hello creality, I have bought an ender 3 S1 Pro. And I have the problem that I have not been able to print a single piece. And the worst thing is that it's not because it's broken, it's because it's poorly designed. The barrel heats up so much that it melts the filament and the only thing I get is jams, or bad prints due to layers that are not generated. They plan to change something, since I can't even create a MOD to have better cooling. Worst of all, after spending almost 1 year saving why this is my first printer and I get this bad luck. Do you plan to release a cooling mod or something to avoid this problem. Thanks.

[@Dingus138]

you are doing something wrong, mine works perfect. I have printed hundreds of things without a single jam

[@br0k3nilluzion]

nothing wrong with this design.. prints perfectly on the first try

[@gone4days956]

mine works like a dream

[@glittalogik]

Did the first method and found the right side about 2mm lower, all fixed now and about to redo my tramming, z-offset, and ABL. Thank you!

[@rompekanava4155]

yep, same here, did that yesterday. mine was 0.8mm difference. But I did not use gluesticks placed on plastic shell for measurement 😑 Did measuring from upper upper end and with a proper caliper.

[@soniquefus]

Okay so i was able to figure out my Z axis was off... But this tutorial needs work. I had no idea how tight or loose the wheels should have been Still managed to fumble my way through and I guess well see if it works

[@craftsmanchris7]

Hello I am having some issues with my Ender 3 S1 pro. I have uploaded a video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/j2jWgpqsiqqdZtk Please let me know how to fix these

[@dosdont]

Such an incomplete video with respect what you're doing. The second method is far more easy but it's not clear what the disadvantage is by doing the second method. Hopefully someone did a better video.

[@crealityafter-sale5706]

Thank you for your suggestion, we are willing to take it on board.

[@anbu94]

I do the first method and second method at the same time. I found that my roller wheels were not making even contact after doing the first method. I start by doing method 1 as shown and when it is sitting on the glue stick, I go to method 2. I can now get the gantry level and get the roller wheels making even contact with the rails.

[@mildmannered1086]

wtfing sheet... you loosen and tighten but the wheels are fixed and not slipping at any point. Why show video of a finger rubbing a wheel if it is always fixed solid tight? What was the point of a visual video. You are filming something with missing information, assumed knowledge about the correct amount of wheel tension. You guys blow my mind messing around with consumers... jeeez

[@rubyparrilla1516]

This kind of 3D printer have a issue with the motherboard I have done everything to level everything and still its not working the issue its with the motherboard. Creality need to fix this issue before selling things to people

[@crealityafter-sale5706]

Hi, regarding your question, please contact our official after-sales service and they will help you solve your problem as soon as possible. (Official service email: [e-mail])

[@dimsy35]

You need tot put gcode in Slicer setup for automatic levelin to work greetz

[@br0k3nilluzion]

user error

[@someonemaybe3947]

Add M420 S1 to your start gcode otherwise the bed leveling won't be used. Also add a z-offset if you haven't already. Should be between 2.4 and 2.5 depending on your machine. Mine is 2.48 but you should level with a piece of paper to find it. (Go to the height 0.2 and lower the z-offset until you can barely feel the drag induced by touching the paper with the nozzle. Then run a test print and adjust if you need too. The issue is very likely not with the motherboard. If it something is wrong in software it is probably the lack of M420 S1 in start gcode. If nothing else helps maybe flash klipper on it or other community firmware.) Likely the problem is user error.