To Scoop or Not to Scoop, is it a question?

Resources: (links to some of these books are here: sewsew.live/pages/my-tools-ma...)
📕Some books I like (I don't have many but of these, I trust them):
Pattern Making for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong
Designing Apparel Through the Flat Pattern
📕Pants for Real People by Pati Palmer and Marta Alto (ok some of the language in this book is a dated and says some things that will make you cringe- but the pants fitting is AWESOME and absolutely my top recommendation)- and yes there are some curvy folks inside.
📕Sewing Pants that Fit by Singer Sewing Reference Library (this book is pretty good, it shows a lot of combinations of fitting issues, and while it is a little brief in some ways, it is accurate and helpful to see the same good info in a different format. It's not very curvy friendly though.
📕The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen The pants fitting section is very accurate. The format is a little different and you have to follow the captions and connect them to the pictures. But because of this, you can really understand what you're looking for and see pictures of the actual process.
🎥KZbin:
I wholeheartedly recommend JStern for pants fitting information. She has the most calming and grounded demeanor. She presents her information very clearly, in short non-blabbering ways unlike me, and she helps you understand WHY. Plus she has a business helping anyone with their fit and you can take classes from her! Plus you get to see real bodies. Here's a link to her latest video and guess what it's about.. ta daaaa: • To Scoop or Not to Sco...
👩‍🏫 Alexandra Morgan (in House Patterns) has built an excellent business on Fitting Courses and more. She has a great Pants Fitting series as well and her format is clear and informative. I don't see a lot of body variety in her videos or patterns but don't let that fool you, she knows what she's doing and has some great instructionals: / alexandramorganinhouse...
👖I altered my already sewn pants to fit better here: Dawn Jeans: • RETROFIT: Fitting Sewn...
And here: Glissando Pants: • RETROFIT Fitting Sewn ...
👖 And here is how I made my Pant Form (it's in two parts): • Make Fitting Pants Eas... Part 2: • Half Pant Form Pt 2
Articles/Blogs
Sewcialists did a great series on Butts! And even one dedicated article on Scooping: thesewcialists.com/category/t...
Curvy Sewing Collective is always a go-to for information regarding curvy patterns and fitting with their truthful opinions and summaries: curvysewingcollective.com/revi...
I'll also include the Curvy Pattern Database: curvydatabase.com/
Lastly- check out my Sew Sew Guild if you want a supportive community with other sewists and me!
Thanks for watching!
Time Stamps
0:00 Intro
0:26 Why I made this video
0:37 Is it the pattern's fault?
2:35 My philosophy on Fit
3:04 Who are we Fitting? YOU
3:48 The overemphasis on Fit in the home sewing world.
4:24 Jeans through the decades
4:40 The function of Fit....it's fluid
4:50 Example of Fit
5:53 The magical pants fitting method we all want
6:41Just say yes to a double scoop
7:52 Designers and their Crotch Curves
9:08 Fitting Solutions
9:48 But will you hurt the pattern?
10:43 Jelly Bean pants fitting demo on the crotch curve
18:24 School of Though
19:11 Who do you trust and Closing
Happy sewing!
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Hope to see you in the stream and the Guild!
xo Saremy
Send me a postcard: Sew Sew, P.O. Box 253, Paradise CA 95967

[@SewSewLive]

Scooping is a choice. You don’t have to do it! And it only pertains to very few fit adjustments. But it’s just a seam. And it gives us one more place to fit ourselves. Check out the demo on Jelly Bean linked in the time stamps.

[@scormeny]

“All seams are an opportunity” 👏 👏 👏

[@SewSewLive]

They are indeed!

[@msnisperos]

I LOVE that you brought up the slouchy/sagging pants look and validated the preference of the wearers. I really appreciate that you did that. It seems so ridiculous how polarizing it was. Thanks for this video :)

[@SewSewLive]

Right? People really like judging others for what they wear. Among other things!

[@blairconger240]

A philosophy to live by. Not just pants.

[@SewSewLive]

Hear hear!

[@marjoriebell198]

I just love when you give us your no bs opinions. It’s so refreshing and appreciated. Thank you for posting these videos!

[@SewSewLive]

😅 Well I hope it’s constructive. I do hope to engage in conversation about it. I’m so open! If someone disagrees I hope they’re comfortable saying so.

[@triggerhappysound]

I'm completely new to sewing and I just wanted to say thanks for this perspective. Starting to look into making/tailoring clothes has been somewhat overwhelming, and the sense that I'm going to be doing things 'incorrectly' was pretty strong, but it's good to hear from someone so experienced that there isn't 'one true way' and I just have to concentrate on finding what works for me and my shape.

[@SewSewLive]

Welcome to the infinite world of sewing! Yay! It's a skill you'll always be thankful you have!

[@Kera.S.]

I appreciate your perspective, how you relayed your information, and love that you are able to express your thoughts and opinions in a helpful, positive manner! A Lady with Skill & Class👏👋💙👍

[@SewSewLive]

Aw thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it.

[@LisaInND]

The demonstration on your form was super helpful. Thank you!

[@SewSewLive]

I like visuals too! Thanks for watching. 🙂

[@LovingHandsDesign]

I appreciate your thoughts and agree with you. There are no rules in sewing, there are no police, that’s why we sew. There different ways of doing things. You find what works for you, that’s why there is so much information, so many opinions. Thanks for sharing. 😊

[@SewSewLive]

Thank you for such a nice comment. We’re the masters of our sewing journey!

[@mariamurray7675]

Great advice and visual explanation. Thanks!!

[@SewSewLive]

Glad it was helpful!

[@melanieirwin9398]

Totally agree with this! Every bum is unique and fitting pants is more complicated than ‘scoop’ or ‘don’t scoop’. Thanks Saremy.

[@SewSewLive]

My pleasure, thanks for watching Mel.

[@cherylmccain2673]

Thanks of the information. I have been researching how to alter pants. Mainly in when to scoop or slash and pivot alternations. To the point that it gets confusing. Your demo was a light bulb as to what the changes does physically to the garment.

[@SewSewLive]

If only we could have cross sections of ourselves! Thanks for watching!

[@craftymystic4868]

Amen, Saremy. I haven’t seen any snobbery or such in the subject of scooping the pant curve, but as I went thru my own personal pants fitting journey, that 4 or 5 muslins I went thru, I’m happy with what I have, what I had to do with that pant curve, and now focused on a bodice ‘ block’. Thanks for saying something. Scary thing, when authorities are self appointed. ❤️

[@SewSewLive]

Congrats on your pants! And good luck on your block! Thanks for watching.

[@SherbetLollipop]

This was really interesting. As you mentioned we aren't precious about moving, changing or sometimes even scrapping darts so why are we so precious about crotch curves. not to mention they do seem to differ between designers! It can be stressful as a home sewer parsing thru all the info, but ultimately we can decide what works for us!

[@SewSewLive]

I'm glad you found it interesting. Thanks for watching!

[@sherrillsturm7240]

LOVE your attitude and encouraging words. I have a "tilted" pelvis, and no instructions have given me the look and fit I want. Permission to do what is needed should be a basic rule, but it isn't always that way. I'm starting my pants fitting over as of now!

[@SewSewLive]

If you’re comfortable and like your pants, they’re perfect!

[@LD-lddh]

You are a wonderful teacher with a wealth of information. You speak slowly, articulate well and have a very pleasant voice. I am happy to have found your channel. Thank you.👏👏👍

[@SewSewLive]

Wow, thank you! Thanks for watching and commenting!

[@dianadivadiamond]

Thanks for sharing your views on fitting the crotch area of the pants. Love your view points. 💯💯💯❤❤❤👏👏👏

[@SewSewLive]

I’m so glad. 🙂 Thank you very much for watching and commenting!

[@norakathleenbertoglio4414]

Really good information! Thank you so much! Pant fitting is definitely a journey-

[@SewSewLive]

It really is!

[@barbginn6569]

I just love the way you explain things….thanks so much

[@SewSewLive]

There’s lots of ways, aren’t there? Thanks for watching!

[@nancypollard4531]

This was a very interesting video with lots of food for thought. Personally, I'm okay with less than a perfect fit because I just don't enjoy the process. And as usual, my sewing is purely for my own pleasure and the way my clothes fit is purely for myself. So. I love this video. I couldn't agree with you more.

[@SewSewLive]

So true, Nancy. Sometimes we just want to get to the sewing. ;)

[@maryjarvis2687]

A wonderful video, thank you. As always you provide a refreshingly honest perspective about home sewing.We all need learning resources such as sewing guides, textbooks, videos etc…. especially when we first start to sew. But I agree , as far as fit is concerned, there’s no hard and fast rules, it’s down to the individual.

[@SewSewLive]

It Is. I'm glad you found it interesting. Thanks for watching.

[@jessicakarinacastillo3641]

Thanks for the video Seremy, it was a fantastic explanation!!!

[@SewSewLive]

Glad you liked it!

[@kristinahartman920]

Thank you very much for showing these pants on this half-form. It made it so much easier to understand what I was seeing on my top-down-center-out one-leg toile. I had the seam hanging away from my front crotch, but everything around it, back and front, was fine. So now I know I needed a shallower curve at my front crotch from the bottom of the zipper to the crotch point, just to get that seam closer to the body without messing with anything else that was already working. Seeing how the fabric piece sits on the form helped so much.

[@SewSewLive]

Wonderful! It’s a really tricky place to figure out.

[@amysheridan4496]

So many good points and observations! Thank you 😊

[@SewSewLive]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching Amy.

[@angelawhite7870]

You’re such an amazing ambassador for home sewing, and boosting the bravery of newbies like myself to try new things (like maybe someday making pants with a fitted waistband that could be comfortable AND I’d like the look of on me)! I feel like after hearing your statement, “every seam is an opportunity,” I’m going to approach cutting out my patterns very differently from now on. Thank you for everything you share-it makes my heart happy when I watch your videos, not only to learn new things, but also to know that there are kind, generous people like yourself in the world making it better.

[@SewSewLive]

My pleasure! Thanks for such a kind comment. I believe you’ll fit pants for you one day 100%. I have a new fitting series launching later this week that you might like! It’ll be here on KZbin. And there’s a companion PDF that will be comprehensive and easy to understand and broken down logically. I’m starting with the Back first. Pants are on the list too!

[@angelawhite7870]

@@SewSewLive Yay-perfect! I’ll keep an eye out for sure!

[@sewterie]

Thank you. Very helpful. Watching your linked video next.

[@SewSewLive]

Thanks for watching Terie!

[@brigittev9917]

That was great! Thank you so much.

[@SewSewLive]

You're very welcome. Thanks for watching. 🙂

[@alisonmartin5958]

What a great video! I learnt more from listening to you for 20 minutes than I have in the whole time I've been trying to draft pants for myself, probably about 6 months. Everything you said was logical and made total sense to me. I kept thinking to myself, yeah, that's right. I'd never thought about pants that way! So thankyou, thankyou, thankyou. I've liked and subscribed and will definitly be looking for more of your fabulous philosophy!

[@SewSewLive]

Well that made my day! I’m glad it was insightful!

[@katiecoleman9847]

Excellent explanation!!

[@SewSewLive]

Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.

[@kayphuff]

Excellent

[@SewSewLive]

Thanks for watching!

[@amymannarino1068]

Thanks, this was a great explanation!

[@SewSewLive]

Glad you like it. 🙂

[@pollymaxwell5585]

Great video!

[@SewSewLive]

Thanks for watching!

[@prof_pudge]

Well said! Thank you

[@SewSewLive]

Thanks for listening, Eliza and watching!

[@febrezerocks]

lots of great info! what you said about named fit adjustments and how the garment industry doesn't have those, that blew my mind. I'm such a stickler for rules that I thought I'm only "allowed" to use named fit adjustments. But if the garment industry doesn't even use those, why am I limiting myself?? Thanks for this!

[@SewSewLive]

Exactly! Glad you like it Michelle.

[@jadeelise7982]

I wish I had known about a pants fitting course. I need it.

[@SewSewLive]

We all do! It’ll probably happen again next summer. But it’s still available as past content in my Sew Sew Guild.

[@hwhipple]

I like the videos where you tell it like it is! ☺️ This was really helpful to hear. I appreciate your thoughts and insights. This reminds me, are you doing more pattern review videos? I haven't seen one in a while but I hope there will be more.

[@SewSewLive]

I do hope to get back to them. I’m not really sewing anything that’s new. I feel like it’s more interesting or useful when it’s a newer pattern.

[@knitdyeread]

Well said! If you need to scoop, scoop. It's just fabric, not philosophy.

[@SewSewLive]

Exactly. We have professors for that ;)

[@pamelarosselli8876]

Well said.....nobody should get affinded

[@SewSewLive]

🙌🏼

[@MildredGlutz]

Thanks!

[@SewSewLive]

No problem!

[@katieb1836]

Thank you, what you showed is exactly what I suspected that I needed to do quite often. I would pinch out that wedge at the hipline to remove the excess below the cheek, but it always made sense to me that I would need to move that crotch curve back to where it would have been, since it made it cut in a bit too far.. Thank you for the great visual!! Pants are the one thing I really wanted to sew for my work wardrobe. What I found most frustrating is that some RTW pants look so much better on my backside than what I have found in most patterns, but there are other parts of those RTW pants that don't fit so well either. I can't tell you how many pant pattern muslins(big 4 and some indie) I have tried to fit, and I am often disappointed mostly with the fit at the rear. I really tried to analyze what differed from the pattern to the RTW shape that I liked. I don't want to spend the time sewing pants that don't look better on me than what I can sometimes find to buy. The main reasons I want to sew them is to make them out of beautiful wools or wonderful fabrics you can't find pants made in and to fit me well too. I finally found a french pattern designer that makes a pair with which I am really pleased with the fit. I am planning on making more soon. All this to say, maybe some of the other patterns would have worked before if I had just had the courage to do what my gut was saying...exactly what your video just showed. Thanks again, Saremy!!

[@SewSewLive]

Way to keep persevering! I'm glad you found a pattern company that suits YOU!

[@francesgiacobbe6821]

A really helpful video on collar/stands. Some very common sense tips! I have frequently had difficulty making the front curve on the stand lie flat and smooth. I plan to try your method tomorrow..just a practice collar/stand. You were referenced by mainlymenswear who also gives some very helpful, practical tips. I will subscribe and binge watch your videos! Do you have a favorite shirt pattern for women? One that you consider well drafted. I have the Lise and Co pattern which I may use for my practice. Many thanks for all your work to help us become better sewers ❤

[@SewSewLive]

My pleasure. Im so glad this method is helpful.

[@annelowry2937]

Bravo!!!!

[@SewSewLive]

🙌🏼

[@bethallen7384]

Thanks for your help in understanding that the pattern isn’t going to fit out of the envelope and will need adjustments. I’ve been beating myself up for so long for not being able to find a pattern that fits.

[@SewSewLive]

Aww. Yea there’s no standard. We’re all the standard. It’s completely fine to adjust what you need to adjust!

[@AngelikaUnicorn]

Love this. J Stern just posted similar sentiments.

[@SewSewLive]

Loved her video! I linked it in the description.

[@audreywring1920]

Totally agree, just fitted a pair of shorts using top down method. I removed seam allowance on the crotch curve and could clearly see there was too much fabric in that area on the back( additional fabric sat between my cheeks)scooped it out. Made up another mock shorts both legs and the crotch curve glides around my bum now. The designer designs for the average butt and most of us are different so expect to make changes to accommodate your figure.

[@SewSewLive]

Nice job! Did you like that method! Sounds like it served you well as you could see what you needed!

[@audreywring1920]

@@SewSewLive The top down method is OK. I choose a pattern which was close to my block crotch seam. I need a lot more length in the back rise. So the changes made was an additional inch at centre back to nothing at centre front and scooping out the back seat. This method worked well on flared trousers or shorts. I would use my block for tailored trousers though because it simply follows my body shape. If I choose a random Big4 pattern without reference to my block, my job would of been a lot harder.

[@SewSewLive]

You have a good sense for what works best! I already use a lot of elements similar to TDCO so I haven’t tried it. But I can see it being helpful for looser pants. Not too fitted. I don’t think I can ever trust only fitting half a pant though. On loose pants, yes. But even I wouldn’t trust that I’d perfectly place the center line on my body. Plus I’m sure I’m asymmetrical.

[@libbybowles]

💯

[@SewSewLive]

🍑🙌🏼

[@kayphuff]

Not seeing the info on. How are you created your pant form

[@SewSewLive]

E A S Ooh! I’ll have to check to make sure I added these links in the description: to make my Half pant form, here is part one: Make Fitting Pants Easier by Sewing a Half Pant Form Part 1 kzbin.info/www/bejne/bH3JeImIa52SkJo Here’s part 2: Half Pant Form Pt 2 kzbin.info/www/bejne/h3WWaaeNfbuIbZY I didn’t do videos for the full form as I was creating it for the Pants Fitting skill building sessions in my Guild.

[@HungTran-zc7oy]

Xin chào em đã đăng ký kênh của chị yêu rồi đó

[@SewSewLive]

Thanks for subscribing!

[@lbispy]

I appreciate your experience and even your feelings but would prefer 2 separate videos

[@SewSewLive]

🤔

[@stitchintime4332]

Was there any point to this video? 🤔

[@SewSewLive]

Lots of points! :)

[@critter4004]

And - they're not in your body!!!

[@SewSewLive]

Well some times people like them that way 🫣