Sharpening - Ep.1 - STOP RUINING YOUR SCANDI KNIVES!

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[@kongandbasses8732]

If you ever come into a real survival situation, just sit down and start sharpening your knife. In less than 15 minutes someone will appear and tell you how to do it right in his opinion.

[@elkofdeath]

This also works for cooking animals.

[@ajdurkee8663]

Underrated comment

[@monkoko6441]

?

[@nicholascassadine1294]

😂😂😂

[@raimundomartinsdeloiolafil7879]

🤣😂🤣🇧🇷

[@Linkavitch788]

Very good explanation as to why scandis can get ruined. Thanks for sharing!

[@yankeejedi2575]

Good tip. I recently bought a scandi grind knife for bushcraft and am looking forward to a easier method of sharpening. I would have stropped it the way you warned not to. You saved me some frustration.

[@kyle_noseworthy]

Thanks YJ!

[@MickyMouseLimited]

Scandi its really hard to maintain perfectly flat because the stone wears out and then getting it back perfectly sharp becomes almost impossible. I have a mora that gave me a lot of grief until i put it on the work sharp and convert it into convex. It worked best on 15 degrees angle and now the knife is really sharp and you can easily refine the edge on a strop.

[@GriffinBenchmark]

Really enjoyed this and love the new episode format! I think this will be a great series. I'm not so focused on sharpening techniques and I know others aren't as well so this will offer a really nice service for those of us that need to learn more about how to sharpen and maintain our edges! Good job! P.S. how's the leg?👍👍👍

[@kyle_noseworthy]

Thanks PG! I'll continue with some of this stuff for sure! leg is doing well! Coming along!

[@GriffinBenchmark]

Really glad to hear it bud!

[@robinpohl2702]

Well apparently I put a saber grind on my mora still cuts well tho , maybe I will invest the time to make it a scandi again anyway thanks for the video

[@beentheredoneization]

Good for some of us to know and good for others to have the reminder. Thanks!

[@kyle_noseworthy]

a lot of times a reminder is all that's needed!

[@olisykes27]

most clear video ever. Ty

[@MichaelQuigley-fy5rc]

So then what's a flat grind? Another question that comes to mind is what's a modified scandi like TOPS BOB?

[@kyle_noseworthy]

Flat is essentially a scandi. However, when the knife community talks about flat grind, it usually means the grind travels farther towards the spine. Some will even be called "FFG" which means "full flat grind", or a bevel that travels from the edge to the spine, in a single plane.

[@MichaelQuigley-fy5rc]

Thanks Kyle

[@kameelelian6044]

Why dont all knives have a scandi edge

[@joshhamlton1187]

idk, this is just my opinion. but true Scandinavian grinds are convex grinds. look at helle knives, made in Norway, a Scandinavian country for a very long time. all of them are also indeed convexed. over years it has been changed to what it is seen as today, but true scandi grinds are convexed. modified scandi grinds are not. I convex all of my moras and any blade full flat.

[@theg-man7868]

Great info for us novices, thanks.

[@kyle_noseworthy]

thanks Gareth!

[@benschildgen4994]

Is it ok to use a steel to realign the edge if you use the right angle?

[@kyle_noseworthy]

absolutely Ben!

[@benschildgen4994]

Thank you I did not want to ruin the Mora companion and Companion HD even though they are inexpensive. They are my first and only scandi knives. The rest are saber and hollow grind except for our kitchen knives that appear to be flat grinds.

[@kyle_noseworthy]

Of course! :-) It would be a shame to ruin an knife. I'm not one of those people that bashes my gear if its cheap. Anything I bought with my hard earned money is worth treating well I figure! :-)

[@walterthegoat9070]

I like micro bevels on scandis

[@lewisyouknow]

Top video, thank u

[@dameongray6412]

Do your research saber grind is not the same as scandi and what you are referring to is a double bevel

[@keama71]

Appreciate it

[@TheWtfnonamez]

Very insightful. +1

[@dp1381]

One other option for stropping a scandi grind without creating a convex edge is to use a hardwood strop. As a furniture-maker, this is what I do for my chisels between sharpening them with stones. All you have to do is cut a piece of hardwood so you have a very flat portion of end grain exposed and rub stropping compound into the open pores. You then have a flat, hard, durable surface charged with the fine stropping abrasive that will not convex your edge the way a leather strop will. It works incredibly well and saves me leaving the bench to sharpen on my stones. It also save wear on my nice stones and costs virtually nothing.

[@MrNetnic]

@Donny p. I was also a professional hand tool woodworker, reliant on ultra sharp planes and chiselsand I echo your advice. However, I would bet a fair amount of money that @Least 90% ofthe knife fetishists reading this thread Would not be able to plane a flat surface on the end grain of a piece of hardwood. That is why I recommend MDF -. It’s flat and it’s cheap.

[@bradlarrison191]

@@MrNetnic I’m one of the dirty fetishists you speak of. Firstly, I hope you’re having a wonderful day being a worthy blade owner unlike us fetishists who get hard for sharpening blades we never use. Secondly, can you think of any way to obtain a small piece of mdf without having to purchase an entire board? I’m not a tool guy and always feel lost in the Home Depot unless I’m staring at a shiny knife edge attached to a tool I have no understanding of. Anyway, is there anything small that’s made of mdf i could purchase that I could strop my skandi grinds on. Because if I can’t achieve a hair shaving edge then I can’t get hard. And if I can’t get hard my wife gets angry. My marriage is on the line here. So, I’m begging you to once again impart your knowledge upon me and tell me how to acquire a small piece of mdf.

[@WhuDhat]

@@bradlarrison191 construction site scrap bins, also the hardware store will generally cut that plank down for you, if you ask nicely ofc. but is having some excess wood ever really a bad thing? your wife apparently thinks not haha

[@VTPSTTU]

Using the white board makes a great video. You explain things well with the illustrations.

[@kyle_noseworthy]

Thanks so much! I appreciate that :-)

[@supernoobsmith5718]

Scandi is delicate. I have no problem with the slightly convexed edge. Stays sharp longer. And I take the stone to the blade. It's so much more controllable to me.

[@Airik1111bibles]

"Pure" Scandi grinds IMHO have one purpose WHITTLING. But even then as someone who whittles about an hour a day I find a scandiVex or full flatVex blend to be superior . Knife use through hundreds of hours will teach you much about grinds and which ones work best. Ruining a scandi is when a person puts it through a worksharp but basic microvexing an edge is natural. If done right it will save you steel and money.

[@TwentythreePER]

I've heard that Scandivex is the absolute best edge you can have on a bushcraft knife so thats why they strop with compounds.

[@SoftBreadSoft]

They hold an edge somewhat longer. You don't need necessarily need a strop for any reason with any bevel. A strop is for honing, and polishing out the microserration as well as the steel itself, your edge will potentially last longer (if you didn't try to sharpen with a strop and make your edge atomically thin) and be prettier, not necessarily perform better. Convex is the best bevel for holding an edge, which means it is the best bevel period (but especially for bushcraft/survival)

[@borjesvensson8661]

@@SoftBreadSoft The reason our knifes have flat bevels is to give good support while carving wood, Like the sole of a plane. Its also resonable good at general work but does not really good at standing up to abuse, traditionally axes/hatchets or perhaps sami chopping knives or sometimes a second "beater knife" were used for that, either with sligthly steeper angle "scandi" edges for carving use or convex grind for chopping use. Convex grind is better at cutting throug stuff, and as most mora knives are used on the workplace or home to cut, pry and poke around the manufacturers ship them with slightly to shallow angle grinds with the micro bevel to make them better cutters and to hold up to abuse better.

[@LastBastian]

@@borjesvensson8661 Sharpened my mora to a true scandi, only to find out that it made the knife worthless by doing so. That steel with that true zero edge simply didn't hold up to *any* actual use. Light wood carving mangled the delicate edge. Wound up having to put the secondary bevel back on. Works fine now.

[@glbwoodsbum2567]

Mors Kochanski used a strop, Ray Mears applies a micro bevel, and furthermore, traditional Scandinavian knives were very high convex grinds. A zero grind is actually very delicate on the cutting edge, and can chip out easily.

[@Ve-suvius]

Yup, also; Cody Lundin uses sandpaper, no stones (for more than 30 years now). On cardboard or something like that. A little convex is not bad but good. And what Kyle gets from customers, seems to be cases of completely focusing on the apex when stropping. Then you get the overly rounding effect. When keeping the whole bevel on the leather or sandpaper, it will work fine. No stones needed.

[@colinburgess9455]

Some might argue that a scadi-vex is better than a true scandi, and it was used originally, the flat scandi grind is a relatively new thing, that only came about with modern machinery in the factories of the last century or so.

[@jelkel25]

Aaaaand that is another reason the low end Mora's are great, you can sacrifice one or two to learning how to sharpen Scandi grinds correctly on a real Scandi grind with decent steel without ruining more expensive knives.

[@kyle_noseworthy]

absolutely!

[@janbernad4729]

@Gray Au i dont think scandi sucks in general, in my opinion it is sometimes too demanding for the steel quality. For exmple, my Mora Companion came with scandi grind with a micro bevel (i dont like to call this sabre grind since the secondary bevel was only about quarter of milimeter wide). When i tried to sharpen it like a full scandi, i ended with an edge that was to thin and got bent during casual cutting task. Instead of reprofiling the whole blade or returning to the secondary bevel i went for the scandivex grind and cant comply about the edge retention now.

[@chimpdongs]

@@s7r49 Yeah..I've wasted countless hours trying to sharpen a "scandi" Mora, until I took a new one, put it under a microscope, and observed a distinct secondary / micro bevel. What is the point of them being sold as Scandi grinds, when they aren't scandi grinds? Literally the whole point is to have a very easy to sharpen profile that anyone can do, even out in the field.

[@demolitionwilliams7419]

Amen to that

[@janbernad4729]

@Ryan Boswood In my experience its all about practice. Practice and reasonable quality stones, which should be in ideal case pretty flat (no need to go crazy, but it helps for me). As far as I know, the scandi grinds are tricky in the way that while they allow you to set the sharpening angle on pretty easily, you need to take off quite a lot of material in comparison to a secondary bevel grind. This means that any minor mistake that you make gets amplified quite a lot. For example, if you tend to rock or tilt the blade on the end or beginning of each stroke, after a greater number of repetitions it might eventually round your bevel, making it slightly convex. After that, finding the correct angle to sharpen on again can be a bit difficult. If I were you, I wouldnt be really afraid of ruining cheap knives - I am not sure what you ment by "totally destroying", but unless you remove so much material that the knife isnt able to hold up, you most likely haven't done anything what somebody with some sharpening experience couldnt fix. The only reason why I would not recommed starting with expensive knives is the fact that you could damage them cosmetically, and while this is fine with cheap things, you most likely want your more valuable ones to be nice and shiny/satine/stonewash/whatever finish you like :P

[@StevanOutdoor]

For my user scandi's I actually want that small secondary convex edge. They even call it a scandivex. So I strop them before even taking them out in the field. A true scandi is way to weak for serious carving most of all some harder woods. The edge will roll on you. I tested a true factory scandi knife in Colombia and the first piece of hardwood I tried to cut the edge had a visible roll. So what you say is correct but who wants a true scandi knife for actual work in the field?

[@declanthiele]

Sounds like the temper is too soft on those blades

[@StevanOutdoor]

@@declanthiele No. Just a full scandi makes the edge to weak. To thin no matter the temper or steel. It all depends on the angle of the scandi of course. After some stropping these blades can withstand batoning even. So if it's just cutting fruits and vegetables (soft materials) keep that super thin edge. If you also want to do some woodwork give it a strop depending on the angle of the scandi.

[@bushcraftnorthof6012]

Makes sense to me! Time to be more careful on the leather.

[@kyle_noseworthy]

thanks for watching!

[@dustinewing7974]

This makes a lot of sense. I just got my first scandi grind knife and the #1 reason was ease of sharpening. So I better make sure it STAYS easy to sharpen!

[@CommonCentsOutdoorsman]

I would disagree a little bit. With practice and understanding how different stropping methods affect an edge a scandi can be touched up nicely many times before a stone is needed. Different strokes for different folks of course. There will always be error with a human hand, even on the stone. Proper stropping can be quicker, easier and less wear on the edge. I like a tiny relief bevel anyways.

[@coreyg7364]

You get knives with a convex edge because people are sharpening them on stones and don't know how to hold the proper angle. They rock the blade as they pull it down the stone and cause the angle to change as they pull/push the blade. On top of that people who don't know how to sharpen their knives and try, are seldom using the same angle 2 strokes in a row. Stropping has little to do with the damaged edges you see. Most people don't even know what a strop is, much less actually own one.

[@wigglywrigglydoo]

The first time I did a zero grind on my scandi knife, it was scary sharp. But the edge didn't last. I enjoyed using it but I took some chips and rolls. Now I can't be bothered taking even more steel and time to fix that. So I keep factory microbevel edge on the scandi.

[@AllenMaestas]

What if I want a convex grind, will stropping on a leather keep my convex edge? Or what if I have a micro-bevel on a flat or scandi grind, how do I resharpen that micro-bevel?

[@kyle_noseworthy]

Stropping on leather will help to keep your convex, for sure. You would sharpen a micro bevel just as you would sharpen any knife, say a buck 110, with a small secondary bevel.

[@tmpace9]

I don't see anything wrong with a scandi-vex, it's much stronger than a true scandi and it's the favorite grind of the Dutch Bushcraft Girls (DBK)

[@arctic3032]

I just use the back of my belt. Works great. After batoning a 1075 Condor Bushlore, that's all I need to do to hone the edge.

[@housevollmer9106]

It’s not I practice to remove the steel and fix the grind properly, if the knife was maintained properly in the first place the steel would have been already removed with each edge touch up it’s just a lot of work!

[@mistersmith3986]

Thats NOT a traditional scandi grind. Look up knife history, and you'll find that, the convex grind is the traditional scandi grind.

[@wilsonline90]

It becomes a scandivex. [2] And it may performs even better, hold an edge better, less chips. I like it. Although, I try not to raise the angle not to convex to much. Last time on stones, I've modifeid my Mora, reduced the angle, raised the bevel line and stroped. So it seems like a tommy pukko. Bites much deeper in wood and the convex edge reduces the chiping issue. I like it. Still make great feathers.

[@redcanoe14]

Sanding belts and leather strops will form slight convex bevels, even working on a wet stone by hand will tend to convex as the wrist flexes. A fixed angle jig would form a flat edge. Thick blades over 1/8th" tend not to perform well with a Scandinavian grind as the edge angle is too severe. My family bloodlines came from Sami of Inari and some old blades I have seen are all convex edged (both on 'leuku' and 'puukko' sized blades). I have heard from people who have researched this topic that mechanized mass production resulted in what we believe is the flat grind profile 'Scandi' we see today. Thanks for opening up this discussion :)

[@Ve-suvius]

I sharpen all my Mora's on sandpaper and keep them sharp by stropping. The sanding blocks with spring clips have the somewhat soft backing. Perfect for sharpening a scandi grind knife to convex it slightly.. No stones needed. And the scandivex is best. A slight convex grind. Makes the edge tougher, but still very sharp.

[@KentSurvival]

good tip, thank you

[@vandelftcrafts2958]

I would prefer the small convex compared to the sabre grind

[@angelus_solus]

This is why I never use a strop. I have a 3/32x2x4 inch hardened steel plate for honing the edge.

[@joekelly9369]

Yeaaahh hmmm .scandi grind knives , if its the only knife you have to survive with for 8+ months at a time get rid of it , it will do your box in , they dont perform wonderfully , if feathersticks are your thing then fine , but relying on A SINGLE knife to do everything over a year out in the sticks , you will find its the wrong choice veeeery quick ,

[@LastBastian]

Agreed. I've never had good luck with true scandi grinds. In my experience, the edge simply doesn't hold up. It's also a pain to sharpen, imo, do to there being a massive edge surface area to sharpen compared to a regular V edge.

[@OutoftheWoods0623]

good stuff Kyle,

[@jl9752]

i hear people using secondary grind/edge/bevel interchangeably with micro grind/edge/bevel, but here's how I like to make the distinction. On saber grinds, you can clearly see the "secondary" bevel, it's certainly nowhere near as long as the primary, but you can clearly see that edge. Whereas for scandi, I do sharpen (since it typically doesn't need reprofiling, on higher grit stones) them to scandi zero, but raise them ever so slightly for a micro edge on finer/finishing stone. These micro edges are visually not as prominent as the secondary edge on a saber grind. Of course another thing to point out is that the primary bevel on saber is a lot shallower than the angle of a scandi knife. Anyway, long story short, I like having micro bevels on scandi knives; I feel you get over 90% of the cutting performance (if not more) and a lot tougher edge. I also love sabers too though; one can never have too many knives (unless you ask my wife....)

[@hristokassovski]

I agree with you. I also microbevel my scans is because a true Scandinavian edge on my Finnish puukkos and I see the edge literally flexing while working on harder woods. I know that puukkos are meant to whittle softer woods though. But where I live we have harder woods as well. A week Scandi edge is not practical for me.

[@cant_standya]

What do you think about something like an MDF strop loaded with compound? Shouldn't convex the edge at all, but still polishes the bevel.

[@bilbobaggins8876]

Scandi vex is the way for me, double chisel (what this guy is calling "true scandi" Dulls way too fast (granted my only experience is with mora)...put a convex edge on all of them and they preform much better in all aspects (slicing, edge retention ect)

[@dougjohnsonbushcraftandbjj5561]

bilbobaggins8876 Hell no. You're making me cringe just thinking about ruining a scandi.

[@bilbobaggins8876]

Then, I dont know maybe I'm not using it for the "right"things....not sharpening it correctly. My only experience is with Mora high carbon companion and TOPs mini scandi. The Mora I was sharpening all the time, the tops came with a convexed edge and held up much better.....did the same with the mora and it performs much better....Sorry If i gave you nightmares!

[@jeremylong6229]

I feel like anybody who is sharpening freehand is creating a convex edge weather they want to admit it or not. Any slight variation in the angle you hold the knife will convex the edge and we are humans after all not machines

[@borjesvensson8661]

Moras come from the factory with to shallow edge angle for woodworking and a micro bevel to make better cutters

[@jamieofalltrades536]

The Mora Companion used to come with the sabre grind, not sure if it still does, but the last one I bought had the secondary micro bevel. I got rid of the micro bevel as soon as I got it home. I have found that the skandi is my favorite blade grind for its versatility and its simplicity.

[@andrewfrudd108]

You can strop with compound directly on a flat board. The leather of the strop compresses resulting in the rounding of the apex. For a bushcraft knife you might actually want this to strengthen the edge but when I am carving (mora 106) I use compound straight onto the board and it keeps a flatter bevel.

[@MrNetnic]

EXACTLY !!! If I really wanted to strop, I would use compound, or the slurry off an 8000 grit stone, on a piece of MDF. As far as I am concerned, the ultimate Scandi grind is the ultimate fragile edge. You are not taking your knife into the wilderness to make a fine furniture, Or to cut pieces of paper FFS. A knife that you take camping with you is a relatively crude tool That needs a combination of reasonable sharpness and reliable edge strength.

[@Hunspikey75]

Well said bro. Even my blacksmith drives me crazy by putting on a convex edge with his belts, and when I want to put on a decent V edge (scandi) I need to sharpen around 3-4 days - each day, at least 2 x 3 hours on my stones which is absolutely a stone and time killing, useless piece of unnecessary work. I hate it.

[@donzapanta4071]

Thank you, that explains why my blade edges seem to be dulling on 1/8 inch tanned leather cowhide with polishing compound, but I get a great polish using compound on thin suede like leather (from an old welding glove) stapled to a piece of wood. I'm applying to much pressure when stropping and the 1/8" leather has give to it where i'm rolling into the edge and eating it away as to where the thin leather has the hard wood backing to support my blade edge as i polish it. Eye opening O_O

[@kyle_noseworthy]

Glad you're progressing in your techniques my friend! Thanks for watching!

[@johnlbales2773]

Thanks for that. Good on you.

[@Dark__Thoughts]

A lot of knives advertised with a scandi grind come with a secondary bevel though, even from Mora.

[@astrazenica7783]

Sabre grinds usually higher than Scandi. Not just secondary bevel or not

[@jkittle05]

@whois this i have seen you comment at least 7 times on different videos tonight 😂

[@astrazenica7783]

@@jkittle05 is that all? Gotta find them all!

[@jkittle05]

Whois This 😂 i’ll try i’ve seen you’ve been interested in neck knives over the last 5 years

[@AlexKost-tq6bj]

I thought a lot of manufacturers would add a tiny microbevel to a scandi grind as well out of the factory? For example, I measured my Helle bushcraft knife at 23deg inclusive for the scandi grind (11.5 dps) which is super steep (and not that durable?). I mean, even high end cooking knives are about 14-15 degrees I believe, wouldn't an 11.5deg cutting edge fold super easily?

[@stephangrobler5524]

Great vid! Helps me alot. May I ask what degree should a true scandi be? My tops bob scandi is at 11.8 degrees with a 20 degree micro bevel. My work tuff gear mt bushman’s scandi is at 8.9 degrees with a 20 degree micro bevel. Both are like this from the factory. Was thinking to make them both true scandi’s. Do you have any advise for me?

[@pengovan]

Got Eräpuu Nahkatako with micro bevel. Mora also puts micro bevels at their knives. Here is the quote from their site: "Most of our knives have the True Scandi Grind that includes the typical micro bevel of a total edge angle of about 35-45° which is about 0.05 - 0.5 mm high to make the edge less fragile and with better edge retention." I guess they just don't know how to make "proper" scandi grind 😀

[@d.c7464]

The bevel edge in nothing more then a mass production way of sharpening a knife.

[@LaughingMan44]

Made my mora a true scandi, got chips and roles without abusing it. Gave it a convex micro bevel and it's much sturdier now. True scandi makes sense for carpenters and prepping food and game, that's it

[@BennyCFD]

Stropping a knife is totally over rated........Gazillions of people worldwide sharpen their knives (to a very sharp edge) everyday without stropping. So, the question is realistically, how much more FUNCTIONALLY sharp will your knife be. I would bet in a blind test using a knife to cut a piece of leather, a piece of rope, a cardboard box you'd be able to tell if a strop was used.

[@Hootyhoo-jq9vq]

Okay. Scandi - use a flat stone. Now I know what I keep doing wrong. Please tell me how do sharpen AND MAINTAIN a sabre grind. Excellent and to the point video.

[@traeucity6087]

I ruined two knives listening to people who said Scandi grind knives are easy to sharpen. Then, when I began searching for a professional knife sharpener to restore my knives, I couldn't find one that was willing or able to sharpen a Scandi ground knife. IT'S A TRAP!

[@dash8465]

I’ve noticed a lot of people using strops tend to flick their wrist at the end causing the edge to round off. What irks me is a new scandi showing up with a micro bevel right out of the factory (Garberg, etc). I dont get the point of that.. For field sharpening my A2/3v/Elmax scandis I use a 1.5 x 6 inch piece of ~3-4mm thick carbon fiber plate with naked thin smooth leather on one side, and the thin 3M microfinishing lapping adhesive sheet on the other. That stuff is amazing and weighs nothing. I’ve made a few of them, one has Tormek paste on the leather for Elmax blades. The trick to the strop side is using thin hard leather that doesn’t deform/compress much when the blade is pushed down on it so that it doesn’t “wrap” upwards around the edge causing it to round off leaving micro convex. Although, I’ve noticed more tiny edge dings what were not developing when I had some micro convexing in the past using a thicker leather with compound or paste. So I guess its a trade-off.

[@nikolajc7617]

If you have a problem with stropping a scandi grind its because you dont know how to use a strop, i just use an old leather belt holding it with my feet at hold the other end in my hand and i never had a problem with my edge by doing that.

[@longriderxx]

I keep hearing people say how easy a scandi is to sharpen .. I disagree... The large amount of metal you need to remove to sharpen it correctly means that it is hard work to maintain.. A saber, flat or better still a hollow grind is a much better all around choice for most people xx

[@LastBastian]

Absolutely agree. I don't get how it's easier. There's a massive amount of edge surface to remove material from, compared to a regular V edge.

[@nathanpieper4634]

This is precisely why I'm not a big fan of scandi grinds. You get one chip in your edge..... and like you said, the amount of material you would have to remove to recover your edge is absurd and impractical.

[@christophde7720]

Never had a good scandi.. And if the knife comes with a non centered grind it is really hard for me to get it done even and good and I ended up with a messed tip/ curved part of the knife.. By hand im not able to do it but a nirmal flat grind I never had a problem and especially never had a problem resharpening. Scandi is very shitty to resharpen when heavily used. Love the look but to me its very shitty to maintain

[@zombiefighterof1987]

There's nothing wrong with a micro convexed scandi grind, doesn't really affect performance much but helps with edge holding.

[@artheen4713]

It most certainly affects performance. You can no longer chisel with the blade, as when it rests on the bevel, the real edge is not near the wood. It also becomes much more difficult to whittle woods that split easily, as you create a wedging effect where the edge doesn't touch the wood and controls the cut. The amount of tearing increases significantly if you have a secondary bevel.

[@ryanb1874]

YOUR not Cliff Stapm, are yiu, did You (peckers) Tube shut you down and had to start another channel? Those a holes ..

[@fenrirlokisson8270]

sometimes i find scandì to be too acute, and that makes the edge fairly week. which works fine for normal bush crafting(wood, rope or animals) which is kind of what its supposed to be made for. but for normal day uses donst work that well. so I sometimes sharpen them as saber. that makes maintenance much quicker, also because the edge doesn't get damaged as much.

[@borjesvensson8661]

They also come to shallow from the factory. About 22° to 26° is recomended for woodworking. I think mora is about 19°

[@andrewkeeton3627]

With all the knife sharpening systems these days it’s alot easier to get and maintain an edge on a saber/flat grind. Hand sharpening, with the correct technique, is the only way to go with a scandi. Telling ppl not to strop is silly

[@bingostar9207]

I broke mine in half can you help me sharpen it?

[@kyle_noseworthy]

You broke your stone in half?!

[@holzmann8443]

You can't tell me what to do! I just bought a new scandi knife expressly for the purposes of ruining it.

[@Wolf_K]

“Scandi” grinds with a very tiny micro bevel has far better edge retention and no negative impact in cutting various materials than a fragile zero ground scandi. Zero ground scandis are good for wood work and that is all. As a multi purpose knife they are terrible. That said, the bevels do need grinding to zero every now and then or the apex will become very dull. As for stropping, the leather should be around 1mm thick, loaded, and done with the full bevel on the leather. Or don’t strop at all. Either way, a very tiny micro bevel (barely visible) is needed if you want edge retention that can last months.

[@xenonram]

KZbin commenters are so funny. Some guy just said the exact opposite of what you said. "Scandi grind is good for multi purpose take, but are terrible for wood working." LOL. Opinions are like... And they all stink.

[@Wolf_K]

@@xenonram Well, Scandinavian wood workers would disagree with that other post. Lol. Just try each and what works best for you is best (for you).

[@JoaoRodrigues_photo]

hi there! great explanation.what are the best grits to sharpen the knife? just for bushcraft and utilitarian purposes, not aesthetics

[@anthonytrujillo7971]

Inside every good scandi knife is a great convex edge waiting to be used.

[@unscentedcandle6012]

By the way,at 1:42, when you said “steepened angle” I you drew an unsteepend angle. Was that intentional?

[@tattoosteveneo]

I recommend if you don’t know what you are doing don’t do it. It’s that simple 🤷🏻

[@bigmac3006]

How can I field sharpen a scandi blade?

[@borjesvensson8661]

Just hone it with a small stone. Hold the stone flat against the bevel and move the stone in a figure eigth or circle motion without tilting the stone. I prefer a medium fine to fine waterstone (synthetic, natural or diamond) about the size of a small chocolate bar. You can wet the stone by spitting on it, very traditional and suposed to lubricate better than water. If you need extra sharpness you can lightly strop on your smooth leather belt (no compound) if you hang it up and pull really tight in sutch a way that it does not cup. Only strop to bevel angle and away from the edge. The bevel should lie perfectly flat against the strop. Do not strop more than nessesary.

[@ajbones22]

Great Vid... A+

[@inso80]

There are reasons why one would want or choose a scandivex instead of a true scandi. True scandi is not the only way to go for more than one reason.

[@davidsain2129]

Makes sense to me. I see many posts saying a secondary bevel prevents rolling of the edge. What say you?

[@rowanfernsler9725]

It doesn’t prevent rolling but it does make the edge significantly tougher

[@shaunnaude5190]

Try a Smith Custom they WON'T roll

[@borjesvensson8661]

Yes it does. They should really be about 22° to 26° but few are from factory.

[@kevinlin7674]

Never owned a Scandi knife and had no idea about this. thanks for the info bro!

[@kyle_noseworthy]

my pleasure Kev!

[@Lodo4nik_Alt]

These are very correct tips. Thank you from the other side of the ocean!

[@graydonwilkinson1458]

I have the bob by tops its a scadi with a mod of 20 degree edge it is not a Sabre grind 🤔

[@wladakg]

The original scandi grind is actually convex,not flat grind...

[@FrankZoldak]

People forget it's a 1 angle, bushcraft, 1 stone grind.

[@MFKR696]

You seem to have some confusion as to what a strop is for. It's not there to remove metal. It's just there to bend the burr back and forth until it breaks off in a clean edge. My father's a highly accomplished wood-carver (has been for the better part of 50 years), and he never once put polishing compound on his strops. Care to guess why? Because polishing compound removes material, and again... That's not what a strop is for.

[@ahmedejaz1125]

That's literally what he said in the video to not use compounded strop.

[@troysnyder8174]

Awesome for the tip getting my first scandi bushcraft knife .

[@keen2b]

Stop winging the grinding is doing the work!! And it doesn't take a ton of time either!!

[@marioz8132]

Or you can strop on a mdf strop.

[@wolverinebear5357]

You can strop on wood put the stopping compound on a perfectly flat peice of pine

[@theolliproductions]

I ruined my really expensive scandi grind knife, can you somehow "resurface" a scandi grind to a knife which doesnt have it anymore

[@kyle_noseworthy]

I'm not entirely understanding your question. Email me and we'll figure it out! [e-mail]

[@TheRealGOTdurrrred]

I put a scanivex grind on most of my knives

[@ctdvargas]

Yup, its almost inevitable actually. But they are very useful in the field as such!

[@TheRealGOTdurrrred]

@@ctdvargas I do it on purpose because I think it performs better and stays sharp for longer

[@dennisleighton2812]

Thanks Kyle, this is exactly what I've been saying about all knives that do not have a secondary bevel at the cutting edge. To say that a Scandi grind is so easy to sharpen in the field is just NOT true. Yes you can put a sort of edge on it for a while, but, as you've said you're actually ruining your grind. What happens in most cases is that the less arduous solution is to sharpen at a steeper angle, thus changing the profile, till eventually it's mostly only useful as a doorstop it's so steep. The cynic in me says that the reason it is so widely recommended by experts is because it has to go back so often to an expert for proper sharpening. But I guess we all have to make a living. Most people who say it's easy to sharpen are people who have some considerable expertise with knives. For beginners it's a nightmare. One thing I do concede is that the Scandi grind is good for woodworking tools, as the angle is similar to that of a chisel, only double sided. For most other tasks like peeling, food prep, skinning, dressing meat etc flat and hollow grinds outperform the Scandi grind by a long way. It is most definitely NOT a solution for ALL camp tasks. For a SHTF survival situation it has serious shortcomings. Sharpening a hollow or sabre grind knife is actually quite easy, even to get a perfect edge, as there is much less probability for making a serious error, as your diagrams so clearly illustrate! Well done on that. Take away: from this it becomes clear that specific tasks around camp require specific knives, with the necessary characteristics to work effectively, and provide a pleasant experience while doing so. Yes, this means you might need more than one knife. However, if you like hacking it and expending lots of energy you can use just about anything out there and eventually the task may get done and leave you with all ten fingers and a full quota of blood inside. Thanks again.

[@dennisleighton2812]

@@beowulf_of_wall_st S A hollow grind doesn't have a "flat".

[@dennisleighton2812]

@@beowulf_of_wall_st Of course not, and I never intimated that it was.

[@NotALizardPerson81]

I wouldn't refer to someone accidentally changing the edge to a scandivex as ruining it. Many people would say it's superior. Jury's still out for me.

[@borjesvensson8661]

Just not superior at what a scandinavian knife is really god at. Woodworking.

[@NotALizardPerson81]

@@borjesvensson8661 I think the scandi grind is horrible for woodworking. Takes out too big of chunks. It's not capable of finesse work.

[@NotALizardPerson81]

@@borjesvensson8661 my bucks seem to work far far better.

[@borjesvensson8661]

@@NotALizardPerson81 Weird. Perhaps you are using differen tecniques. You rest the bevel flat agains the wood and control wood removal by sligthly angling it up. Just like one migth use a paring chisel. You also often control movments with the body, pulling the knife with the tumb, levering and so forth.

[@Jises_Kristos]

Глупое видео. Если точить нож на руках, автоматически получится так, что будет появляться небольшая линза на режущей кромке. И эта линза режет лучше чем плоские сканди. Ваши scandi точить сложнее чем в линзу, не проще. Вы жертва маркетинга

[@ericm4658]

Most people would call that "scandivex" where there is only the primary and it's a bit convexed I doubt ancient humans used a completely flat primary bevel anyway Would be difficult

[@kyle_noseworthy]

You're right Eric. Scandivex. I'm simply saying that when a scandi has been convexed, I turn it into a sabre! thanks for watching bud!

[@islandpainter3964]

Weiderfan a sabre is far higher on the initial grind usually double the hight of a scandi. Dude you are not giving very accurate info here. I can email you a diagram of grinds if you need clarification.

[@artheen4713]

In Scandinavia, honing was traditionally done on schist, which naturally breaks up into very flat stones. So yes, flat grinds were easier in Scandinavia than many other places.

[@RasmusPetterssonVik]

Traditionally scandinavian grinds would (and still do, at least for those that know what they're doing sharpening knives för sloyd/slöjd) actually have a hollow ground bevel, done with a big rotating stone, that is reground once in a while, you then hone this hollow ground bevel with a sharpening stone until you've worked the edge back so far that the actual bevel angle has become to big, then it's back to the rotating grinding stone for regrinding the correct bevel angle again. You can of course get flat bevels on a rotating grinding stone as well, you first grind in the hollow grind with the knife positioned crosswise to the rotation of the stone, after that's done you flatten it out with the bevel paralell to the rotation of the stone.

[@seppstarthebest]

also they might have used stone blades which are still known to be sharper than anything that can be ground out of steel ;) "Under the microscope, you could see the obsidian scalpel had divided individual cells in half, and next to it, the steel scalpel incision looked like it had been made by a chainsaw." from: edition.cnn.com/2015/04/02/health/surgery-scalpels-obsidian/index.html

[@thetinkerist]

Thanks for pointing that out, and everyone thx for the good info in the comments!

[@quinntheeskimooutdoors6234]

Thanks for showing us and take care.